Hi,
Do I need to over/under-exposure slides as some sort of
general rule?
this is a matter of personal preference. I suggest you bracket at
least 1/3 of a stop each way and make your mind up based on your
results.
---
Bob
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-
This message is from the
Sid, Ilford publish a Technical Information booklet (Ref TI610) for
their Multigrade papers which gives the filtration settings for a
number of enlargers, and say that most enlarger manufacturers use
Agfa, Durst or Kodak filtration values. Unfortunately, they do not
cite either Rollei or
Hi Rob,
Outstanding URL explanation!
Makes the whole concept of a 'motor' inside a lens clear.
I've done a bit of work with stepper motors, and inexplicably forgot
there was such a thing. g
It all makes sense now.
Thanks, keith whaley
* * * *
Rob Studdert wrote:
On 12 Aug 2002 at
Principles of photography overturned by a new one-step process:
http://www.nature.com/nsu/020805/020805-10.html
Is digital dead too???
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
visit the Pentax
In a message dated 8/13/2002 7:16:44 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
http://www.nature.com/nsu/020805/020805-10.html
Very interesting, but of course, many questions remain. I think long term
stability may be an issue. I sounds like a way to make a good color
Rob Studdert wrote:
I hate to burst your bubble
POP!! POP-POP-POP!! POP ;-)
I really think that you should have used a foam which didn't fill the
recess ie the 1mm stuff. I use the Micro-tools foam to and I have
found that it's pretty dense and doesn't deform as readily as some
Bill Kane wrote:
I know this is a question that's never been asked before. I know to be
able to focus CLOSER to an object, you need a close up lens . . .
. . . BUT, I have a project where I need to actually be able to focus
FURTHER from the lens.
Hi Bill,
One way to look at this is that
Where can I buy the hand grip fdp for (p)Z-1p. I'm interested in shop witch
foto eqipment located in USA Germany, Czech ...
___
Piotr BRONSON Chabowski ( [EMAIL PROTECTED] )
Tczewska filia GGF Strona GGF-
I tried 4 AA batteries in my PZ1-p last month and it works
perfectly. I didn't notice any difference from the original
battery. I just need to find out a nice way to hold the
batteries.
Regards
Alex
--
Alexandre A. P. Suaide, Ph.D.
search on www.keh.com or www.ebay.com
regards,
Rogier van der Peijl
From: Piotr Chabowski [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: small questions Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 14:44:06 +0200
Where can I buy the hand grip fdp for (p)Z-1p. I'm interested in shop
In a message dated 8/13/2002 2:09:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] quotes and comments:
Do I need to over/under-exposure slides as some sort of
general rule?
this is a matter of personal preference. I suggest you bracket at
least 1/3 of a stop each way and make your mind
on 8/13/02 4:04 AM, Bob Walkden at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi,
Do I need to over/under-exposure slides as some sort of
general rule?
this is a matter of personal preference. I suggest you bracket at
least 1/3 of a stop each way and make your mind up based on your
results.
---
It
BH Photo-Video in New York has them in stock.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com
Search using PZ-1p and it will come up in the list.
I bought one last week. ~USD $65.00
Mark
-Original Message-
From: Piotr Chabowski [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 7:44 AM
To:
Its there this week!
-Original Message-
From: Cotty [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: 06 August 2002 19:24
To: Pentax List
Subject: Re: PDML UK
Any mention in Amateur photographer this week?
Hi Rob,
Nope, not yet. I expect they're saving it for a slow news week ;-)
Cot
Kodak Professional Royal Supra to replace both Royal Gold and
Professional Supra!
See AP this week - Professional Royal Supra (wot a mouthful!) 200 will
have the same grain as the old Royal 100 if you shoot it at 100, so it
really becomes a 100/200 film (an idea like the old Fuji MS 100/1000).
I
In a message dated 8/13/2002 9:17:24 AM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Kodak Professional Royal Supra to replace both Royal Gold and
Professional Supra!
See AP this week - Professional Royal Supra (wot a mouthful!) 200 will
have the same grain as the old Royal 100 if
Pop Photo reviewed these recently. The Velbon Chaser EFL-4 at $79.95
matches what I'd like to pay. It's shortest length is about 17 inches
(43 cm.). Can anyone recommend one with a shorter folded length in the
same price range?
I'm less concerned about maximum extended height since I spend more
Don't worry about your english, it's superior to my french! :) Sorry, don't
know about that lens.
Brad
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: pentax-discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 3:39 PM
Subject: 300 f/4 A *
Hello all,
I always have a look in
I've got a few that won't come clean. I bought a cheap kit a long time ago,
but I get smears and never get the very outside of the filter cleaned.
**
Brad W. Dobo, HBA (Eds.)
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: http://members.rogers.com/brad.dobo/
Let's suppose you were preparing for an anthropological field trip to
Greece. Besides observations and interviews you'd also like to do some
photo-documentation (people, houses, interiors, decorations, landscapes)
but travel really light at the same time. You're taking an LX and a tripod.
The
I paid about $370 for the one I have. It's a very good lens and I thought
very light and compact for it's focal
length. It balances well on just about all of the bodies that I've used it
on but especially well on an LX. On an MZ/ZX body all of the weight will
defiantly be in the lens. My
I think the price is fine and there is no risque if you would resell it on
ebay.
Salutations
Bernd
-original
message
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 21:39:05 +0200
From: =?utf-8?Q?[EMAIL PROTECTED]?= [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject:
Peter,
The focal range you mention works out well. The 135 would probably not get
used as much, in my opinion. I tend to carry the longer focal lengths but
find their use is minimal in my case.
I would rather use the faster primes over the zoom. This way you still have
the ability to close
KODAK UNWRAPS NEW PRINT FILM
Kodak has launched a new range of 35mm consumer colour print film called
Royal Supra. Aimed at 'advanced amateurs, enthusiasts and professionals'
and due out in September, the new film replaces the previous Royal and
Professional Supra film families. The new film
Somebody wrote:
Do I need to over/under-exposure slides as some sort of general rule?
Hi,
The general rule for PRINT film is to expose for the shadows and develop
for the highlights. The general rule for SLIDE film is just the reverse
-- that is, to expose for the ~highlights~, but develop
Hi Brad,
Two words: Lens Pen.
Hope this helps.
Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Nah - don´t worry, it IS normal behaviour. Relatively, at least. You focus so that the
image is sharp on the screen - period.
There might be some wear in the focusing helicoid but start worry only when you cannot
get proper focus or pictures are unsharp.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography
PENTAX FANS MEETS CYBERSPACE PALS
Pentax camera enthusiasts got the chance to meet for the first time at a
recent air show in Cam-bridgeshire. Brought together by their interest
in photography and the Internet, members of the Pentax Dis-cussion
Mailing List (PDML) had only ever chatted to each
Hello group,
I would like to get your opinion on which slide film
is best for travel (ie landscape, architecture,
people, scenics) photography. I'm going to Asia
(Philippines) in the latter part of the year and it
might be wet, overcast, cloudy or sunny depending on
the weather or location. I
Bob,
The lens I am having the infinity focus problem with:
focal length: 35mm
I have to move the focusing ring back, so instead of being on
the infinity mark, it is between infinity and the next mark,
which happens to be 15 ft.
Dave
You didn't tell us which lens. You didn't tell us if
Rob,
From what you said below, it seems that this problem does not
really effect the ability of the lens to focus.
I am going to take a few pics and see if it does.
Thanks for the information.
Dave
Rob said:
Given this information I expect that this particular lens has
a
problem. In
I am fairly new to photography (3 years) and, while I am better at the math
these days, it is still a source of confusion for me.
I am under the impression that f-stops are measured in a scale that is
either based on 1 or 1.4, as in:
1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32...
Of course I
Great stuff...
http://www.jetpix.com/
Enjoy
Albano
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go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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- Original Message -
From: Margo Ellen Gesser [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 5:02 AM
Subject: MZ-3 Question
Dear Fellow Pentax users:
This is my first post! I have an MZ-3 (I live in Canada). This camera has
brought me nothing but joy and
Welcome Margo,
I have an MZ-7 and like the 1/2000 max shutter. The MZ-3, with it's 1/125
top flash synch speed and it 1/4000 top shutter speed, does, I would say,
qualify as an advanced? camera. I live in Richmond, BC, where are you?
James
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To
If I'm traveling really light, it would be my MZ-S with the 28-105 zoom and
the AF360 flash. Probably would also leave the BG-10 grip on since AA
batteries are easier to come by than CR-2s.
Bill
- Original Message -
From: Peter Smekal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent:
Hi Margo,
A multiple exposure function would be nice!!! I suppose my main
concern has to do with 'ruggedness: how much heat, cold or other
environmental abuse a specific camera body could take. The pro
models (such as the MS-Z) have more rugged bodies due to their
construction. Or at least
Hi,
as it 'appens, guys gals, I have a book called Visual Anthropology
by John Collier, who worked for the FSA in the 1940s and has taught and
published widely on this very subject. The book was first published in
1967 but mine is a 1992 edition, so it's not particularly out of date.
He likes
Having just returned from a field trip to France (uhm... not quite
anthropological, but your description is very close to what I did
there), I found that a tripod, 24/2.8, 50/1.7 and 135/3.5 was enough
for 99.9% of what I tried to shoot (people, houses, interiors,
decorations, landscapes). Ok, I
My favorites are the Agfa RSX series. Ektachromes are okay, but I
definitely don't care for Velvia. Colors appear too vivid and false for my
tastes.
Bill
- Original Message -
From: David Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 2:35 PM
Subject: Re:
Let's suppose you were preparing for an anthropological field trip to
Greece. Besides observations and interviews you'd also like to do some
photo-documentation (people, houses, interiors, decorations, landscapes)
but travel really light at the same time. You're taking an LX and a tripod.
The
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Great stuff...
http://www.jetpix.com/
Great quote:
While most aviation photographers blast away at five frames per second to make
sure they get the one shot, I have to plan each picture carefully and press the
shutter precisely.
--
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com
-
Pieter,
It seems to me with all our friends on the PDML, one of us should be able to
order anything you need and ship it to you. I am not sure if there are any
reasons why this would not work or would be cost prohibitive. If I can help,
let me know.
Glen (in Kansas City)
Happiness is Older
When I'm traveling light I carry my MZ-S and three lenses, the FA*80-200,
FA*24/2.0 and the K15/3.5.
When I'm going extra-light I have an MX, FA28/2.8, 43/1.9 and 200/4.0.
Then ultra-light would be an MX with either an M28/3.5 or the 43/1.9 Limited.
--
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com
-
On Tue, 13 Aug 2002, Brad Dobo wrote:
Provia 100 F, Provia 400, and I like Velvia 50 for landscape shots,
especially with a polarizer and enhancing filter. Not that cartoonist. :)
I'm actually looking for something with the ultra vivid colours. I
recently picked up a roll of Velvia, but
On Tuesday 13 August 2002 12:05, Rob Brigham wrote:
Principles of photography overturned by a new one-step process:
http://www.nature.com/nsu/020805/020805-10.html
Is digital dead too???
-
Reading the article, it could support digital at the moment as a
printing technique. When they get it
On Tue, 2002-08-13 at 21:58, Glen O'Neal wrote:
It seems to me with all our friends on the PDML, one of us should be able to
order anything you need and ship it to you.
Wow, thank you. I will keep that in mind if I don't manage.
But my goals are more long-term: I want to shake some sense
gfen,
If ultra vivid is what you want, then Velvia or Kodak 100VS is your
game. In the print film realm, the king was Agfa Ultra 50 - alas is
has been discontinued for some time and you probably won't be able to
find any. My experience with print films is that if they are real
vivid, then they
I'm actually looking for something with the ultra vivid colours. I
recently picked up a roll of Velvia, but haven't bothered to try it yet. I
was hoping a polarizer would enhance this, am I wrong? Can someone make
some suggestions for additional film that would help bring out those sort
of
- Original Message -
From: Rob Brigham
Subject: Kodak film changes
Kodak Professional Royal Supra to replace both Royal Gold and
Professional Supra!
See AP this week - Professional Royal Supra (wot a mouthful!)
200 will
have the same grain as the old Royal 100 if you shoot it at
- Original Message -
From: Brad Dobo
Subject: OT?: What's the best way to clean filters?
I've got a few that won't come clean. I bought a cheap kit a
long time ago,
but I get smears and never get the very outside of the filter
cleaned.
Wash in warm water and dish detergent, followed
- Original Message -
From: Peifer, William
Subject: RE: What's the best way to clean filters?
Hi Brad,
Two words: Lens Pen.
I tried using a brand new lens pen to clean the rear element of
my finder base not long ago.
This is not a product I will use on anything I like, ever again.
I
- Original Message -
From: Sid Barras
Subject: OT: where to find equivalent settings for dial in
filtration to match Variable contrast filters...
Hi All,
In case you couldn't read the entire subject line, which
probably
applies to most all:
where to find equivalent settings for
Cotty Jostein wonders:
-Any pictures?
- Original Message -
From: Rob Brigham [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Full News Stories Edited by Chris Cheesman in this weeks Amateur
Photographer Magazine.
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net and
Hi everyone,
I have just tried to scan a BW (TMax 3200) film, and it seems that
leaving the digital ICE (this is Nikon 4000ED scanner) turns the scans
to literally, black and white (and almost no any intermediate greys)!
Switching IR cleaning off turns the pictures back to normal. Any ideas
of
Peter,
I'd take the 24/2.8, 50/1.4 M, 85/2.0 M and a AF280T or AF200T with the LX.
Do you have anything wider? I might consider a 28/3.5 K instead of the
24/2.8. And I might would love to try a 20/4 M with the 35-105/3.5 A as a
kit. I'd leave the 135/3.5 at home for sure.
Regards, Bob S.
- Original Message -
From:
Subject: OT: Digital Ice + Kodak TMZ
Hi everyone,
I have just tried to scan a BW (TMax 3200) film, and it seems
that
leaving the digital ICE (this is Nikon 4000ED scanner) turns
the scans
to literally, black and white (and almost no any intermediate
It is written in many places, not least the manuals and all over the
internet, that ICE, ROC and GEM only work with E-6 slides or C-41
negatives. NOT silver BW negs OR Kodachrome. Sorry, but its
apperently just the physics of the way they do this.
-Original Message-
From: Mishka
Yeah there was a pic of Jostein on the 400 with Mike on the 600 in the
background. There was a little more text in the magazine too, including
a quote from John Dickens. I will scan the article if you want? Is
Cotty Alma ther right now? Glad it all worked out if they are hope
Cotty is not
On 13 Aug 2002 at 22:41, Pieter Nagel wrote:
Imgine going to various camera shops every month for a year, asking
them:
Have you got my eyecups yet?
Nope, the rep says Pentax forgot to order them again.
Oh. Any price on a 77/1.8 yet
Nope, the distributors never phoned back. The
If its a higher resoulution process
than todays films, it would be worthwhile
using it as is no matter how slow ( tripod shots).
JCO
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Frits J. Wüthrich
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 4:08 PM
To: [EMAIL
On 13 Aug 2002 at 15:15, Mishka wrote:
Hi everyone,
I have just tried to scan a BW (TMax 3200) film, and it seems that
leaving the digital ICE (this is Nikon 4000ED scanner) turns the scans
to literally, black and white (and almost no any intermediate greys)!
Switching IR cleaning off turns
On 13 Aug 2002 at 17:20, Peter Smekal wrote:
Let's suppose you were preparing for an anthropological field trip to
Greece. Besides observations and interviews you'd also like to do some
photo-documentation (people, houses, interiors, decorations, landscapes)
but travel really light at the
On Wed, 2002-08-14 at 00:44, Rob Studdert wrote:
It used to be quite similar here in Oz, it's not so bad now though, but there
are still a few big gaps, keep going hard at the retailers and if you have no
joy call the distributors yourself and make waves there.
It the *distributors* that
I could also put in a vote for Kodak E100VS, since that's my current
favourite. But if I were in your shoes, I think I would pick two different
films; the Fuji Provia 400 for those times you will need the speed, and an
ISO 50 or 100 film of personal taste and choice. The Fuji Sensia seem to be
Right now it's 01:20 AM. Cotty I have been out looking for the perseids
for a while, but now Cotty's in my kitchen preparing tomorrow's dinner! None
of us have been particularly drunk, but we've had a great time anyway! :-)
Thanks for the offer to scan the article, Rob. But you know, I think I
The $64,000 question is, why would you want to scan black and
white film in the first place?
William Robb
Perhaps he wants to submit a BW image to the PUG ?
Maybe he wants to share a BW image with friends/family via email ?
Digital ICE and ROC and GEM all do not handle BW Silver Halide - only
- Original Message -
From: Pieter Nagel
Subject: RE: South African Pentaxers: are you also struggling to
get Pentax goods?
It the *distributors* that are the problem! Every single
authorised
Pentax retailer in my region complains that the sole
distributor fails
to supply them with
From: William Robb
Subject: Re: Digital Ice + Kodak TMZ
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 15:09:53 -0700
We have the same problem with digital ice. It seems that it
doesn't deal with the reflectivity of a silver halide image.
Nikon documentation indicates that digital ice is not usable
with
Hi,
I usually carry 35/2 and something in the 80mm range. Although i often feel
need for something wider than 35 and i usually opt for a 24mm.
Even though i carry a lense in the 80mm range i rarely use it and the 35mm
seems to cover most of my shots.
If you have fast lenses then ditch the
Hi Bob,
John Collier, who worked for the FSA in the 1940s
This isnt the same guy as off the LUG is it?
I could easily get by with a 35/1.4 and an 85/1.4 or similar.
Now Pentax just have to get around to making a 35/1.4! This is probaly the
only lense that i wish Pentax made, that they dont.
Hi folks!
Can anyone guide me to solving the following problem: I wish to fire two
AF201SA flashes from a 67II, retaining TTL. What sort of proprietry cables
(and cable splicing) will I need? The configuration I am looking for is a
'classic' macro photography setup with 'main' and 'side'
The bad news: This is not normal behavior for a 35mm lens (or any short, non
auto focus lens).
The good news: Since you can actually focus to infinity, it doesn't matter.
(I was afraid this might not be the case.)
Regards,
Bob...
From: David Weiss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Bob,
The lens I am
The only thing I would add to the discussion is that if you bring some
E100VS (or Elitechrome Extra Color 100, the lower-priced consumer
version), you can use it on overcast days at ISO 200 with a 1-stop push
in developing. I did this in Europe last September, and got good color
rendition under
It's a good thing I didn't like Supra 400 and 800. They existed for what
- two years? I guess it's not a good idea to develop a liking for any of
Kodak's C-41 films. They don't seem to last long.
Joe
-
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go to http://www.pdml.net
I volunteered last minute for the Richmond Tall Ships, and did four hour
shifts Thursday through to Sunday. I see a lot of Pentax cameras(LX, MX,
Super-Programs, ME, MES, 645's and 67's). I carried about my SF-1 and MZ-7
cameras, and got a few oportunities. But best was yet to come!
About 8:30
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Joseph Tainter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 9:07 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Kodak film changes
It's a good thing I didn't like Supra 400 and 800. They existed for what
- two years? I
Message text written by INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have been looking at the Chaser EFL-4 as well as the
velbon MAXi 343E. Also a very compact travel tripod.
Another one is the Bogen Digitripod 719B. I have no
experience with any of these but they are in my list
of travel tripods to check.
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