G'day Tanya.
Mate.
If it was me, I would go back to the film bodies. If they worked great
before, they will work great again.
Also, you would have more faith in the gear that you know.
I am like that with my rifles. I have an old parker hale 308 Winchester
that can shoot 5 shots into less than
That SI site left me breathess!
I was almost worn out when I read all three pages of how the photo team
for SI works, and the frenetic pace of it all!
What nervous energy! Stands out all over the place...
Impressive.
There is some good processing software mentioned, and the support
hardware
Hello Paul,
Amazing photo. The completely dark background works very well. How you
made it so black?
Attila
Sunday, March 21, 2004, 3:34:06 AM, you wrote:
PS Spring officially arrived today, and my Snowdrops cooperated by
PS blooming. It was a pretty day, sunny and 60 degree F temperatures. I
My rule of thumb is that when I use a lens designed for film cameras on the *ist
D, I get one stop less DOF as what is engraved on the lens.
Example for a 55mm lens: DOF indicator says infinity to 9m for f=11. On the
*ist D this will become infinity to 12m as indicated for f=8.
However, you get
They may be using different definitions of what is concidered to be sharp. Pentax
uses a circle of confusion (CoC) being 0,035mm. If The Industar lens uses a larger
CoC it may explain the difference. Otherwise it may not be exactly 50mm...
DagT
Fra: Boris Liberman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 15:43:17 +1000, you wrote:
Post this question, perhaps shortened to just the basics, to
rec.photo.technique.people, or join z-prophoto group at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/z-ProPhoto .
Both places have experts in people photography who seem very good at
providing usable
I can't present my client with images of 40 children with underexposed faces
and nicely exposed backgrounds, and likewise, I can't present them with
images of blown out background but perfectly exposed faces...
If anything I would go for underexposed and correctly exposed (background
and
Hi Frank.
Thanks for the comments.
I decided that since the picture had little detail and was mostly black,to just go
ahead
and scan it at 100
dpi on the 2450.
I fixed up some obvious jaggies but some just would not fix right,lost the smoothness
of
the circle, so i
left them.
Ya a TOPDML
Well, you've got your hands full. Here's a few thoughts to kick around. You have to do
something to control the light to keep the tonal range within the dynamic range of
your recoring media (digital or film). If you don't there will be no such thing as
proper exposure. Two things to use to do
Alin, and others who answered,
I think you're right. It actually did not occur to me that COF can be
different and so of course the reliability of the markings...
No, I don't think I am going to throw this lens against brick wall
shooting and testing. I am just going to use it and see how
Re: My own DOF confusion
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 13:39:29 +0300
From: Boris Liberman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: PDML [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hello.
Few days ago I received my own pancake lens. This is probably the
cheapest one - Industar 50-2 (50mm f/3.5) lens. I've been told that
being relatively
Tan,
After 6 pages of the thumbnails being unusually large (in file size) they
settled down to around 2kb, so I've been able to breeze through the whole
collection of thumbs looking for the rotten exposures. But nothing was as
bad as you suggested, instead I simply found some of the images showed
Hi!
Naturally, I meant to say COC not COF. Typo.
On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 15:55:14 +0300
Boris Liberman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I think you're right. It actually did not occur to me that COF can be
different and so of course the reliability of the markings...
Boris
Hi!
The loss sustained with standard lens designs for 35mm outfits is
something to get used to when going to medium- and large-format
designs. Using a Tessar design may provide a better image
perspective and you may be either pleased or disapppointed with what
you see -- depending on your
Hi!
Yesterday I took a day off work to visit my old friend (former Moscow
uni classmate) in Jerusalem. Among other things, I took with me a
little Pentax outfit - ME Super, K 24, M 35, M 50 and this little
Industar lens. Mostly I've used K 24 and M 35 as indeed focal lengths
were just right
Be sure to see Katsura and the many other gardens and temples in Kyoto. You
could spend weeks photo'ing that city.
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 5:52 AM
Subject: OT: Travel Tips - Japan
Hello everybody...
Something I
Hi everyone,
Thanks so much for advice and suggestions...
Firstly to Anthony - I am so sorry to have put you through that! lol. I
was about to post and say to you that the thumbnails are only 2k in size and
I went to my server to realise that I had uploaded the large images into the
thumbnail
Katrin,
My first tip is that you enter buses at the centre door and take a seat
without first paying. You pay at your destination, then exit the bus via
the front door. I learned this after letting two buses leave without me
because I was waiting to enter via the front door.
The second tip is
Doesn't look much like our US Brighton Beach at all!
Shel,
Here's my attempt.
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2224695
--
Fred Widall,
Email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
URL: http://www.ist.uwaterloo.ca/~fwwidall
Nice exposure, but it is a bit unusual to see the full moon and Polaris in the same
picture, due north :-)
DagT
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi all.
Submitting a double exposure i did during last falls Lunar eclipse. The star swerls
were
about 10 min on
bulb and the moon
One of my favorite spots is Japan is Miya Jima, an island in the inland sea
completely occupied by temples and parks. It was a great please to relax, to
experience Japanese culture, and to take photographs.
Nice shot Bill.
I like the frost covered trees.
Are you planning to do a series during the construction.??
I dont see any fish thoughvbg
Dave
This is a shot of some repairs being done to our
local lake. It has
been quite the undertaking, as the lake was
Your correct Dag.
However i find shooting the north star gives me really nice swirls with a 60 min.
exposure.(this was
less,just an experiment)Any were else in the sky,in my backyard,gives streaks which i
did
not want.
I wondered if anyone would notice.:-)
Dave
I gang.
Well i have been invited to shoot my daughters,coaches,young daughters, 1 year BD
party on
Saturday.Not so much the party but they really want some nice BW shots of the parents
with the
baby.
Saturday long range is mostly sunny and
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 3:40 AM
Subject: Will adjusting the iso on the af280t give me fill flash
If i use manual exposure(PZ-1 and SP being used) and set the 280t
to manual and if using
iso 100
film,set the
Hi Tanya ...
I wasn't going to offer any suggestions as what I know about
the istd and flash wouldn't fill a thimble, but you made a
comment that I can comment upon. You said:
A few of you have suggsted that for this shoot at least, I should go back to
shooting the film as I know it and the
It might be worth trying the old exposure compensation trick that people
used on the MZ-S. If you are shooting in manual exposure mode anyway it
may not be too tricky - just set the exposure compensation on the body
to the value you want the exposure compensation applied to the flash.
The
Printed.
Thanks
Dave
Bill said
Found this on a back up CD from 4 years ago.
Once in a while I am organized
William Robb
The following is an excerpt from: MANUAL FILL FLASH FOR DUMMIES
Copyright 1993, 1999, 2000 By Suda Mafud
As far as the question about the setting on the back of the flash,
I'm quite sure the ASA setting on the back of the AF280T is just a
visual calculator to let you know what to set the lens at and the
effective flash distance, etc. It's not connected to anything that
affects the flash output
If the flash is on manual, it will take no notice of the ISO settings, it
will just deliver full power or an appropriate fraction of full power if
it has 1/2 or 1/4 power settings.
If you want to use the ISO settings to adjust the flash output, then use
auto (on the flash), and, as you
Looks like in the former Soviet Union they had larger circles of confusion -
big country, big tolerances, we used to say.
All the best!
Raimo K
Personal photography homepage at:
http:\\www.uusikaupunki.fi/~raikorho
- Original Message -
From: Boris Liberman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: PDML
- Original Message -
From: John Forbes
Subject: Re: Will adjusting the iso on the af280t give me fill flash
If the flash is on manual, it will take no notice of the ISO
settings, it
will just deliver full power or an appropriate fraction of full
power if
it has 1/2 or 1/4 power
Hi!
Raimo K [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Looks like in the former Soviet Union they had larger circles of
confusion -
big country, big tolerances, we used to say.
All the best!
Raimo K
LOL.
Nice picture. It has the everlasting hero stamp to it.
I did a very quick and rough version (and left some try-out mistakes in it as well),
mostly like a hint at one direction that one could go.
May not be what you had in mind, but nevertheless - it's at
Thanks William, now I can sleep fimly again...:-)
In practice, I find that I have to stop down a bit more on 6x7 to get
similar DOF as I get with 35mm, presuming a similar angle of view is
being done on both cameras.
Exactly my point - if I want change angle of view I can do to things:
1. Change
Thanks DagT
Both, depending on you priorities. If angle of view is important you say
the first, if DOF is more important you say the latter. In addition, as
you say, the degree of enlargement also plays a part, along with
resolution/diffraction limits etc.
I guess it matters who is asking
Hello John,
Why do you say that? She is using an AF360FGZ which does have flash
compensation on it. Instead of dialing it into the body, you dial it
into the flash (like Nikon and others). I used to do as you described
with my PZ-1p's and AF500FTZ and now do the same with the *istD and
Her FGZ is bust at the moment - so she cant do this so easily. Will
using the EXP comp on the body do the same thing when in manual EXP mode
on the body? This was what people suggested for the MZ-S?
-Original Message-
From: Bruce Dayton [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 22 March 2004
The Circle of confusion required for an acceptable depth of field
changes depending on the format.
The smaller the sensor size, the smaller the cof must be. Also the
desired enlargement factor
should also be taken into account, (although that last is difficult).
This unfortunately isn't hard
Hello Tanya,
Well, that certainly changes things. The AF360FGZ is about the only
flash right now that will allow high speed flash synch and adjustable
compensation for the flash output.
Your other flashes are going to make it slower to work with - you
really need a more versatile backup -
Yes it will. Works just the same way.
The big trick here is that TTL readings (not P-TTL) seem to be a bit
off. With my AF400T I normally dial in about -1 stop for regular
flash - so the amount for fill might be greater than you would think.
This would be a good time to experiment (strong suit
I haven't got a title for this one, since the one I had in mind is a
blatant lie to anyone
who has even a trace of a clue.
This is the center 3rd of a 35mm frame. I was at an air show and near
the end of the
day I noticed the moon hanging in the sky just about where a number of
the planes
Alin
Rule of thumb is appr. (AFAIR) 1/3 in front of focus point, 2/3 behind.
All the best
Jens
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://hjem.get2net.dk/bladt
-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: Alin Flaider [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sendt: 22. marts 2004 12:30
Til: Boris Liberman
Emne: Re: My own DOF
Tan,
I'm interested, I'd love a LAPDML. Also just to make sure, I'm the second
Paul, Eriksson.
/Paul
From: Tanya Mayer Photography [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: LAPDML? was:RE: It's official!!
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 00:42:31 +1000
So, who
Joe.
Thats the info i remember receiving,but lost during the email problem.Just could not
remember what it
was.
One other thought.If i meter in Av mode for f 8(one of the auto settings on the 280T)
but
set the auto
dial on f 4(the other setting)will that give me less of a burst of flash,as it
You might also notice another DOF difference that's obvious
when one thinks about it.
A lens @ max aperture f3.5 is automatically SHOWING more DOF in finder
than a 1.7! So you always SEE more right from the start!
It would be like keeping your 1.7 lens @ 3.5 and holding in the DOF
Preview all the
Dave,
For fill flash with Auto mode on a flash, I have found the easiest
approach is to vary the ISO setting on the flash for compensation,
rather than fiddling with the sensor setting as you are suggesting.
So in this case, set the lens to the setting of the flash auto mode
and then change the
Actually, I believe the 360 is on the operating table at the moment.
Different John.
On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 08:11:04 -0800, Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Hello John,
Why do you say that? She is using an AF360FGZ which does have flash
compensation on it. Instead of dialing it into the
Rules? Nah ... anyone can present a photo, made with any
camera, lens, or format. All you have to do is put the
photo up on your web site, or use one of the many free sites
available on the internet.
I guess the only rule might be to keep the photos to a
reasonable size, and post JPEG files.
For you who shoot LOTS of digital
here's a hardware change that you're
certain to apprecieate.
http://apnews.excite.com/article/20040322/D81FJ1VO1.html
A full 8.5 gig of storage.
Collin
That is so cool! I wish you would remember the names of the dusty small
towns that you came from, my grandparents are from that general area!
The pic evokes so many memories of going down there to visit relatives.
Celaya was the big town, then closer by was Salvaterria, and
Acambaro. My
Hi all
This is my first post, so hello to everyone.
I have a question regarding flash I'd like to ask. I am taking photos of a
band in quite a small, dark venue and I usually just use a fast lens with high
speed film without flash. I'm after a bit more quality (i.e. smaller aperture
and
Hi!
DT I´ve got three of them, so I get some pictures of them. Boys will
DT never be as cute as Shels daughter, but...
Substituting Shel for Boris... g
DT http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2217012size=lg
Dag, I really think that leaving a piece of his eyes out does hurt the
frame. I
Here we go again.
Basically DOF depends on COC, magnification, and aperture (not f-stop). If you
decide to use the same size final image, say an 8x10, then COC and overall
magnification become constants. So the DOF depends entirely on the apperture.
D=f/N where f = focal length, N = f-stop,
Sorry Shel,
In Photoshop 7 I
1) set black and white points in 'curves'
2) Created a new layer containing only the sky
3) Blurred that layer and merged it with background
4) Used Polaroid's free dust and scratch removal plugin
5) Adjusted lightness and contrast to taste.
Pretty simple
One problem is that if the CoC is much less than the usual number
today, 0.035mm, the diffraction limit comes into play. With a CoC at
half this value, 0.017mm, you will never achieve a sharp image with the
aperture set at 22.
DagT
På 22. mar. 2004 kl. 17.18 skrev Peter J. Alling:
The
From: Collin Brendemuehl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 7:14 PM
Subject: Re: My own DOF confusion
Keep an eye on the Left.
They complain any time we go after any group that hates America.
They were ambivalent about going after Al Queda going into
I do not have a digital camera, so I can only speak in generalities. But digital
to my understanding is much like slide film. Blown highlights are unrecoverable.
You might try setting exposure compensation to underexpose 1/2 to 2 stops
depending on the brightness of those highlights. I might
På 22. mar. 2004 kl. 20.49 skrev Boris Liberman:
Hi!
DT I´ve got three of them, so I get some pictures of them. Boys will
DT never be as cute as Shels daughter, but...
Substituting Shel for Boris... g
Sorry about that :-)
DT http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2217012size=lg
Dag, I
If there is an issue with sensors and meters picking up
ambient light and affecting a shot (too dark or washed out)
then using a flash in manual mode may be the easiest option.
For candids where you're working with a consistent
distance from the subject this can work.
If you have a high-output
It doesn't know the ISO you do. You set the lens opening to account for
the ISO the flash unit delivers
light to match. If you set the lens opening incorrectly you'll get and
incorrect exposure.
John Forbes wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong, Bill, but the AF280T has, I believe, three
modes:
Rules? This is the PDML, where did you get the idea there might be
rules? You can submit any damned
thing you want, and I'm looking forward to seeing it.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
what are the rules, if any, for PAW? Can anyone submit and is there a
central posting point?
John G
This brings up a very serious question about Spanish women. One I will
refrain from asking since I'm
more likely to get into trouble than not... (I'll let Frank do it).
Bob W wrote:
Hi,
Monday, March 22, 2004, 9:17:24 AM, Flavio wrote:
Ops... I notice only now I mistyped Gianfranco's
That's also a part of the problem.
Dag T wrote:
One problem is that if the CoC is much less than the usual number
today, 0.035mm, the diffraction limit comes into play. With a CoC at
half this value, 0.017mm, you will never achieve a sharp image with
the aperture set at 22.
DagT
På 22.
-Original Message-
From: M D Giess [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I am confused
as to how to set the camera to automatically use flash to
supplement low light levels, where I can shoot off aperture
priority but underexpose by two stops and use the flash to
bump the light back up
Any UK listers at a loose end this evening (actually in 10 mins) might
find a TV program interesting: 'Your Life in Their Hands' follows heart
surgeon Stephen Westaby in his role as world renowned cardiac specialist,
including artificial heart implantation. I've filmed with him a few
times,
The lens itself is in excellent condition; the hood has moderate wear from
being carried in the bag with the other stuff. Can send pics if anyone's
interested.
Price? Well, make an offer. It's just sitting there, so I am inclined to sell
for the low side of fair value.
Please email
One more try. . .
Several folks have commented on how the muted colors in this picture
doesn't work for them. So, how about in BW :
http://home.wlu.edu/~desjardi/
Steven Desjardins
Department of Chemistry
Washington and Lee University
Lexington, VA 24450
(540) 458-8873
FAX: (540) 458-8878
If it's the Auto Meter III F, I was able to download a manual from the
Minolta website.
Bill
- Original Message -
From: Christian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 12:33 PM
Subject: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions
Anyone have an instruction
Christian,
Try this link
http://www.minoltausa.com/eprise/main/MinoltaUSA/MUSAContent/CPG/CPG_SupportCenter/ManualResults
Bill
- Original Message -
From: Christian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III
It is not the auto meter III F. It is the Flash Meter III. The controls and
functions are very different between the two.
Thanks!
Christian
- Original Message -
From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: Minolta Flash
The link would be great if I had anything but the Flash Meter III! :-(
Christian
- Original Message -
From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions
Christian,
Try this link
On 22/3/04, [EMAIL PROTECTED] discumbobulated:
The ways most folks have been mentioning here are fine for getting a larger
screw or bolt out, but can be disasterous when tried with the tiny screws
we are
talking about in cameas.
Good point Tom.
All this chat reminds me of a brilliant cartoon
The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist
fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer
From: M D Giess [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Fill flash in low light - balancing natural and flash
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004
That's very interesting Frank, but what do you think Oppenheimer would say
about this flash issue?
Christian
- Original Message -
From: frank theriault [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 5:45 PM
Subject: RE: Fill flash in low light - balancing natural
Hi, Matt,
Well, I think I'll actually type something this time, before sending off my
sage advice, as it were. vbg
First, welcome aboard. I hope you stick around after your flash question is
answered. You'll find this forum a quite lively place, and a great source
of information about
Christian,
I think that's my most lucid post in months, no?
cheers,
frank
ps: you smart-ass! vbg
The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist
fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer
From: Christian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL
In a message dated 3/22/2004 1:17:38 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
One more try. . .
Several folks have commented on how the muted colors in this picture
doesn't work for them. So, how about in BW :
http://home.wlu.edu/~desjardi/
Steven Desjardins
I like the BW
frank theriault wrote:
First, welcome aboard. I hope you stick around after your flash
question is answered. You'll find this forum a quite lively place, and
a great source of information about Pentaxes, photography in general,
and all sorts of other things, from Old English Sports Cars to
Sounds like fun, Boris!!
BTW, I don't think you have to ask permission. Depends what you're after.
Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. Some of my best stuff is totally
spontaneous, with no permission sought or received.
Sometimes you don't have time. Other times, you just start chatting,
I don't know, I liked it better in color, not every color photograph has
to be vibrant.
Steve Desjardins wrote:
One more try. . .
Several folks have commented on how the muted colors in this picture
doesn't work for them. So, how about in BW :
http://home.wlu.edu/~desjardi/
Steven
Frank is your tag line a comment on this thread, (it might be), or are
you just having a bad day?
frank theriault wrote:
The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer
From: M D Giess [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To:
Cotty,
Intercourse the Penguin!
-frank
The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist
fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer
From: Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED]
There's a penguin on my TV.
_
MSN
So I now realise.
Thanks
John
On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 15:18:08 -0500, Peter J. Alling
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It doesn't know the ISO you do. You set the lens opening to account for
the ISO the flash unit delivers
light to match. If you set the lens opening incorrectly you'll get and
Peter,
Which do you think? vbg
-frank
ps: neither - I just hit send in error - surely it takes more than that
to constitute a bad day!! g
The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist
fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer
From: Peter J. Alling [EMAIL
Tanya, no filter will help you. you need to learn to check your histogram
periodically whenever lighting changes a lot and the exposure is critical.
use a test shot to check the highlights right away. shooting digital, you
can afford to take extra shots of this nature. for tricky exposures, you
Hello all.
I've decided that within the next year (specifically, before September
2005) I would like to move up to AF. This is mainly because I will be
in Australia doing some shoots at the World Solar Challenge, where MF
didn't quite cut it last time I was out. I'd also like to move into
By all reports the (P)Z1p is a dustcatcher. That could be a problem in
central Australia. Rob Studdert could probably tell you what you need to
know regarding this. If your choice is Pentax then the MZ-S might be
better. It doesn't have gaskets against dust penetration as did the LX (and
I
Hi Tan
repeat this mantra histograms, histograms
Seriously use your histograms often to make sure you're not clipping =
highlights try to stay away or modify very contrasty lighting and =
bracket -1 and -2 ev. Shoot raw for the 16 bit color as it will help =
with smoother tonal transitions.
At 20:57 2004.03.22 -0500, you wrote:
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 01:08:35 +
From: Steve Jolly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: My own DOF confusion
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Lasse:
Some you liked #4 best, so I converted it to BW. I like it even better.
Your thoughts?
Much better. I just didn't like the muddy browns in the colour shots.
Larry from Prescott
http://tripodman.smugmug.com/gallery/85647/1/3013800/Large
At 20:57 2004.03.22 -0500, you wrote:
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 03:23:43 +0200
From: Lasse Karlsson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: Collin R Brendemuehl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 3:00 AM
Subject: Re: My own DOF confusion
At 18:10 2004.03.22 -0500, you wrote:
Boris said, among many other things:
I do appreciate the thought though. I almost feel like the only
daughter photographer here...
Well, I WAS going to point out that I've shared some pics of MY daughter
No offence to other fathers of
daughters...
but if you insist on only counting
Lasse Collin:
Surely your dispute could be taken off-list?
Thanks.
What was the filter size on the new DA 14? I lost the link to the info.
Larry from Prescott
Patrick Pritchard [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've read various reports here on the list of Pentax slowly pulling
faster pro grade lenses.
What? Who posted that???
--
Mark Roberts
Photography and writing
www.robertstech.com
Bucky,
I'm sure that you'll decline the offer, but I can scrape together $100
to offer you. I would love to have the lens and I would take excellent
care of it ... but $100 is all I can spare. :-/
Thank you for your time,
Chris
On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The lens itself is
Along with that, even though the FA 135/2.8 isn't a * lens, it is built
like a tank much like the * lenses. It's a very good performer.
My personal hunch is that the Nikon or Canon pro grade bodies are
going to be more rugged and better at AF. Much as I love Pentax, for
what you are describing,
Absolutely bloody stunning...
tan.
-Original Message-
From: Larry Hodgson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, 23 March 2004 11:31 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: PAW - Zion National Park
Some you liked #4 best, so I converted it to BW. I like it even better.
Your thoughts?
1 - 100 of 118 matches
Mail list logo
