They still do.
The recommended method of preserving HC110 is to work from the most
concentrated syrup, split original bottle, (16oz for example), into
smaller bottles, old fashioned 2 to 4 oz. brown glass medicine bottles,
are what I used to use, (wish I could find mine, I have a 16oz bottle
On 1/10/2016 8:24 PM, Collin B wrote:
I don't process as much b as I would like. My HC110 turns red or pink and
becomes unusable. What is the best way to keep it long term?
Don't dilute the concentrate. It will keep for decades.
I mixed HC110 to order when I was processing film
Seconding what others have said... the undiluted concentrate will last
for a long time. I had some HC110 that was pushing 7 years when I
finally used it up. I would migrate it to smaller bottles as it would
fit, but it spent a good bit of time with some air in the bottles. The
concentrate got
I used to separate the developer into several small glass bottles as
soon as I opened the big bottle it came in if liquid
or just after it getting mixed... filling those right to the tippy top
does the job and glass is inert. I was using dark brown
bottles that had held medicine.
ann
On
Your stock HC-110 or your diluted developer?
The main enemy of chemistry is air. They used to sell Air Evac bottles
that looked like round bellows that you could use to express any
excess air before screwing on the bottle lid, with the chemistry
inside at the edge of overflowing.
Other than
You really should try XTOL. XTOL is the recommended developer for TMAX film,
not TMAX developer.
tv
What is the best way to agitate the film with XTOL? I've had
mitigated results with 3200 films (Kodak and Ilford) and I suspect
this combination might need more or less agitation than what I gave
-Original Message-
From: Andre Langevin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
You really should try XTOL. XTOL is the recommended
developer for TMAX
film, not TMAX developer.
tv
What is the best way to agitate the film with XTOL? I've had
mitigated results with 3200 films (Kodak and
XTOL isn't really the best push developer... Microphen or DD-X work better.
If I remember well I was using XTOL with a 1:2 or 1:3 dilution. I
guess I was looking for trouble...
Microphen is the next one I was to try. A friend of mine prepares
Microphen concentrates at home. I'll try it for
-Original Message-
From: Andre Langevin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
XTOL isn't really the best push developer... Microphen or
DD-X work better.
If I remember well I was using XTOL with a 1:2 or 1:3
dilution. I guess I was looking for trouble...
Kodak recommends against 1:3
Kodak recommends against 1:3 these days.
I would have liked them to come to this conclusion before...
I think you're agitating too hard.
That was my preliminary conclusion after reading about the kind of
results I had had. So I calmed down. But I was not sure if my new
good results were
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 16:56:15 -0600 (CST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dirty little secret: HC:110 is a really good developer.
William Robb
For traditional films?
I used to stock it in college because it would do film AND prints (neither
all that well). We used to use it at work for T-max 400
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