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http://www.nytimes.com/2005/07/05/international/middleeast/05wall.html?

The New York Times
6 July 2005

U.S. Walls Off Its Corner of Baghdad, Annoying Some Neighbors
   By James Glanz

BAGHDAD, Iraq, July 4 - Iraqis call it Assur, the Fence. In English
everyone calls it the Wall, and in the past two years it has grown and
grown until it has become an almost continuous rampart, at least 10 miles
in circumference, around the seat of American power in Baghdad.

The wall is not a small factor in the lives of ordinary Iraqis outside it.
Khalid Daoud, an employee at the Culture Ministry, still looks in
disbelief at the barrier of 12-foot-high, five-ton slabs that cuts through
his garden.

A few months ago, he said, the American military arrived with a crane and
tore up the trees in his garden, smashed the low wall surrounding it,
swung the slabs into place and topped them with concertina wire.

Later they put up a 24-hour guard tower and a brilliant floodlight on the
other side. With their privacy gone, his wife and daughter must now tend
the garden in their abayas, or cloaks, and the family no longer sleeps
outside when electricity failures at night shut down the air conditioning.

"I feel like it's going to choke me," Mr. Daoud said of the wall.

This is one snapshot of life for countless Iraqis who live, work, shop and
kick soccer balls around in the shadow of the structure. Many despise the
wall, a few are strangely drawn to it, but no one can ignore it.
Fortifications of one kind or another abound in the city, but there is
nothing that compares to the snaking, zigzagging loop that is the wall.

Sometimes likened to the Berlin Wall by those who are not happy about its
presence, the structure cleanly divides the relative safety of the Green
Zone that includes Saddam Hussein's old palace and ministry complex, now
used by the American authorities and heavily patrolled by American troops,
from the Red Zone - most of the rest of Baghdad - where security ranges
from adequate to nonexistent.

But for all the problems faced by residents across the city, the
neighborhoods within a few blocks of the wall have become a world apart.
Mortar rounds and rockets fired at the Green Zone fall short and land
there. Suicide bombers, unable to breach the wall, blow themselves up in
shops just outside it. And the maze of checkpoints, blocked streets and
American armor may be thicker here than anywhere else in Baghdad.

"We are the new Palestine," said Saman Abdel Aziz Rahman, owner of the
Serawan kebab restaurant, by the northern reaches of the wall.

Two weeks ago, a man walked into a restaurant near the Serawan and blew
himself up at lunchtime, killing 23 people, wounding 36 and sending pieces
of flesh all the way to Mr. Rahman's establishment.

Lt. Col. Steven A. Boylan, director of the main press information center
in Baghdad, said construction of the wall was guided by "an overall force
protection plan."

An American contractor, Kellogg Brown & Root, builds sections of the wall,
Colonel Boylan said. He said he was not sure how complaints about the wall
were handled. But whatever the official protocol, residents said it was no
use trying to slow the placement of the slabs.

Mr. Daoud, whose garden was ruined, said he had complained and had simply
been told that the city had approved the work and there was nothing he
could do.

But one of the paradoxes of the wall is that while many are repelled by
it, others are drawn by the feeling that they will be protected by the
overwhelming might that lies just on the other side. American foot
patrols, rarely seen elsewhere in Baghdad, are fairly routine along the
outside of the wall, and residents know that any sustained guerrilla
incursion near the zone would draw a swarm of Apache helicopters and
Humvees, as well as a tank or two if necessary.

"It's good and it's not good," said Abdul Kareem Jabbar, a government
employee whose backyard, swarming with clucking chickens and his extended
family's children, abuts the wall not far from the Serawan restaurant.

"What's good about it - it's a safe and secure area," Mr. Jabbar said.
"And what's bad about it," he said, pointing over his shoulder toward the
house next door, "a mortar fell over there the other day."

Other than that, the biggest nuisance Mr. Jabbar has faced is what he said
were empty liquor bottles tossed over from the Green Zone onto his
family's cars.

The stretch of wall near the Serawan, which is faced with a stucco- like
material, is not new. It is there that the wall encloses the Assassin's
Gate, the bulky arch above a boulevard leading to Mr. Hussein's former
Republican Palace. Even though the Americans doubled its height with a
chain-link fence, barbed wire and a green tarpaulin on top, there is
little sense that the structure has blighted the neighborhood.

Soad Harb, an engineer who lives next to the July 14th Bridge in an
apartment that senior officials in Mr. Hussein's government abandoned in
2003, said she was happy to live so close to the southern boundary of the
Green Zone, where she sometimes finds work with Fluor, a big American
contractor.

Ms. Harb said that while the American checkpoint at the end of the bridge
made the neighborhood dangerous and noisy, the soldiers who walked through
the area talking with children made the barrier seem less intimidating.

But the same cannot be said in the middle-class district of Harithiya,
just beyond the western edge of the Green Zone, where the concrete slabs
arrived about two months ago.

Sometimes called T-walls because they splay outward at their base to form
a pedestal, and sometimes called blast walls because the steel reinforcing
inside is designed to withstand explosions, the slabs are a looming,
sinister presence facing a long line of family homes from across Al Shawaf
Street in Harithiya.

Haider al-Shawaf, a 35-year-old businessman who grew up here, first
described the unpleasantness of the wall with a crude American expression.
Then, as helicopters clattered to and fro overhead, Mr. Shawaf said
nervously, "I am afraid of the Americans here - afraid of this wall."

Boys and young men playing soccer in a dusty field nearby echoed that
thought. "There are seven teams in Harithiya," said Faddal Munder, 21, who
wore a bright orange jersey. "Four teams are afraid to come here to play
because it's next to the walls."

There are also places where the wall passes through grim uninhabited
places, like the wasteland along the bank of the Tigris on the eastern
side of the Green Zone. The wall - or walls, since they sometimes form a
double line - follow the contours of the terrain like the parapets of some
medieval castle, seemingly with the aim of thwarting an insurgent
amphibious attack.

But it is in the city's neighborhoods that the wall, so important to the
security of Americans and the Iraqis who work with them, also cuts with
such ease through the hearts and the thoroughfares of everyday citizens.

"It was very nice street," Mr. Shawaf said with the dismay of someone who
loves his tiny corner of the urban plan. "It was very nice street."

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