Generally you get a round image if the paper is very close to the
pinhole. Is it possible that the paper slipped out of position
on the first shot.
I have made a couple of pinhole photographs, and have seen a most curious
thing happen.
The camera I'm using is a converted 5.5 X 12-inch
Any camera has to be held down, so a light camera either needs a weight
or needs to be fastened to a tripod.
Paper works fine in filmholders.
Brass shimstock works well and is easy to use. That's what I use.
It's much easier to poke through than steel.
Greetings,
This is my first post.
Another suggestion. Find an old Brownie box camera that takes
120 film and that has time exposure capability. They should
be $5.00 or so. It is easy to take the lens out and put in
a pinhole. Then you will have 6x9 cm images instead of 35mm
and can still get commercial processing. I mostly do
There's an item on ebay which could be used to make a square cone
shaped close up camera. It's the body of a 4x5 microscope camera.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1769437677
neither of us are right. 24x36x36 =31,104mm2
8(x2.5)x 10(2.5) = 50,000 mm2
Richard Heather
The film is 35 mm wide not 24 mm, and the frame spacing is
38 mm not 36.
35 x 38 x 36 = 47880
I finally got my wooden 4x5 camera lightproof and taken few test shots
using paper negatives. Results are fine, but some recent talk here (esp.
diluting developer) made me search for methods for better tonality.
Flashing (ie. pre-exposure) was one I've already tried, but these tests
showed
Hello, made my first pinhole from aluminum pie tin, but I need to thin =
the material some more. Sanded with 600 wet/dry paper, but have a better =
idea: using fine grit and a marble, a concave surface could be =
formed... hopefully at it's thinnest near the pinhole. Anyone tried =
similar
Guillermo writes:
Science tells us the radius an image point imaged by a small aperture is given
by the formula:
Image point radius = 0.61 * light_wavelength * focal_length / pinhole_radius
Diffraction is not limited to small apertures like pinholes. Every lens or
mirror that
photo...@earthlink.net writes:
Query to Larry Bullis:
I have experimented with a set of 12 pinholes obtained fromCalumet, ranging
from 0.0059 to
0.032 inches in diameter, on a 4x5 view camera.
It quickly became apparent that angle of view is dependent only only on
lens to film plane
Beau Schwarz writes:
My wife has given me the opporitunity of teaching a class of gifted (meaning
'divergent thinkers' in teacher lingo) 7th graders to build and then
photograph with pinhole cameras. The proposed budjet is $50 to $75 and the
length would be 3 to 4 weeks. I have done this
--- Christian Harkness chris.harkn...@eudoramail.com wrote:
Well, I once used a liguid detergent for dishwashers instead of Photo-Flo
it throughly ruined my negatives, much worse then if I had not used
Photo-Flo. so
This is why I suggested away from it in my initial message.
I was wondering if anyone knows of someone
who can convert a 610 format camera to a 120
format camera? I remember a guy in Brooklyn,
NY who would make interesting cameras, like a
120 format lens on a Nikon body that was able to
expose (3) 35mm frames at once. But I don't
remember his
I found a very inexpensive count-down timer today at Canadian-Tire (I'll
let some other Canuks explain Canadian-Tire :))
Its called a parking timer. Its a keychain with a clock and countdown
timer. You can set it to time a certain interval of time. when the time
has expired it will beep.
Leslie,
My apologies. I assumed when the cursor didn't change to a pointing hand
that a larger image was not available.
Your images are even better when enlarged.
Bob Russman
I can't seem to get the enlargements to work with Netscape.
Works fine with Internet Explorer.
Bill Erickson writes:
Since you brought this up, there are two factors influencing the intensity
of light at the film plane, the distance from the pinhole and the angle off
axis. As you move off axis of a flat film plane, the distance from the
pinhole to the film grows, and the apparent
No need to buy a camera or spend more than $15 (including a pinhole).
I recently bought a Brownie Flash six-20 camera from the 1940s for $5.
These are plentiful in junk shops and ebay. You can remove its lens with
a screwdriver and replace it with a pinhole (available from
pinhole
I notice that the caption describes a photon seive as containing
tens of thousands of pinholes. This does not sound like a very
easy device to produce.
Mike Vande Bunt
My guess is that you would write a computer program to generate a large
original and then photo-reduce it in the
There may be a new kind of zone plate called the 'photon sieve'. Instead of
using clear and opaque concentric rings, it uses pinholes of decreasing diameter
arranged in rings related to the zone plate.
See: http://www-hasylab.desy.de/newsletter/2001-12-01.htm
It was announced in the Nov 8,
Of course, if one wants to go the seriously cheap route, you can use halftone
film, which I've done in the past. A sheet of 10X12 should cost around half a
buck, and developing in dilute Dektol (I've used 1+10 to 1+20, depending upon
the scene) will minimize the contrast.
george
http://www.photo-warehouse.com/
does anyone have contact info or a URL for photo warehouse?
I'm not sure that's the right Photo Warehouse.
Here's an ad for the one I'm thinking about:
http://www.printmart.com/ads/805-485-9654.htm
I don't think they have a web page
Porter's has a plastic daylight developing tank for
$40 or so. (I think their web address is portercamera.com)
I bought my developing tank on eBay for a few
dollars less than that...
Mike Vande Bunt
The thing about sheet film tanks is that some of them don't seal
and are hard to
I put a yellow-green darkroom bulb in the existing wall socket and =
placed pieces of photo paper where I intend to have the enlarger as well =
as the developer tray, and covered one half of each paper (one =
vertically and the other diagonally in order to be able to identify them =
later
Although it is a positive film, wouldn't that mean it is designed to be used
with a reversal process? If you developed it in a regular film or paper
developer, you would get a negative.
John
While most positive films do need reversal processing, there are
some special direct positive
do you think it gets small enough for a pinhole camera?
a slightly bigger one would be great for a camera obscura!
for $1.25 i guess you can't go wrong!
I think it can get small enough for a camera. I just got it last
night. I'll take off the motor and see just how adjustable it is.
A friend showed me a gadget which might work as a variable size pinhole.
It is a surplus iris and tiny stepper motor assembly, I assume from some
kind of camera. There are three iris blades which can close completely,
or open to about 1/4 inch. When very small, the hole is triangular.
The
Has anyone made a pinhole camera (maybe out of a paint can or something)
with a light trap on the top that would let developing chemicals in?
Basically something that would work just like a developing tank with a
pinhole in the side?
Rob
I'd like to see a camera made of red plastic so
lf you go to http://www.ilford.com you will find in one of the pages the
technical information on the paper that you are looking for. The actual
page is
http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/prod_html/multirc/multi_iv_rc.html#Te
chnical%20Data
which is a bit of a type-full. It is easier
I was recently in Tokyo on a business trip and didn't
have many early appointments. Tending to want to sleep
in, I would leave the heavy hotel room curtains closed
at night so the early morning sun wouldn't wake me.
One morning I was delighted to wake up to see an
upside-down image of the
dalf...@aol.com writes:
Some time back there was a thread about using paper negatives with pinhole
cameras, and I recall there were several mentions about the logos appearing
on the back of sheets of pape, and it interferring with making of a positive.
Over the Holidays , I printed with
A new book was mentioned on the alt photo list. It may cover what you are
looking for,
Primitive Photography A Guide to Making Cameras, Lenses, and Calotypes
by Alan Greene ISBN 0240804619
its published by focal press - see their web site
Hmmm looked way to interesting - I just
What the heck is inverse quadratic diminution? Maybe I shouldn't ask!
I believe you are seeing vignetting. I it seems more pronounced on
large format cameras with a short focal length.
For a flat film plane, the light from a pinhole falls off as the forth
power of the cosine of
I saw a pinhole camera on the Internet somewhere (Australia?) that had a
wireframe 'viewfinder' on top and side. I guessed the manufacturer figured
out how big to make the rectangular 'viewfinders' by trial and error.
No need for trial and error. Make the front wire frame the same size
A suggestion on designing your own 4x5 camera: If you want to use film
holders, take a look at a commercial press or view camera and look at the way
the film holders are held in place. There is a flat plate, which has the 4x5
hole in the center to expose the film. There is a lip around three
I really don't know what Photo Warehouse is selling. Do you have the link
so
that I can check it out?
I don't think they have a web page. Their address and phone is:
Photo Warehouse
P.O. Box 1427
Oxnard California
USA 93030
Toll Free: 800 922-LITH
Tel:
I have contacted Kodak and have found a BW Direct Positive material which
may be of use to some people and it uses only one developer and one fix -
both standard Dektol and Rapid Fix.
It is called:
Kodagraph Transtar Reprographic TPP5 or TP5 and is still available in these
sizes and
Mike,
Do you process it with standard BW chemistry?
Guy
yes
the only difference is the emulsion is sensitive to red green, sort of
like color film.
andy
k
Color films and papers have three emulsion layers, each sensitive to a
different color. Panalure paper has a single
| Panalure is panchromatic, not ortho or blue sensitive. That's why it
|requires full darkness.
|
|Mike
|
Mike,
Do you process it with standard BW chemistry?
Guy
The Kodak info on Panalure is at:
Gregory Parkinson writes.
Most of the Brownies are not 120, but the Brownie
Cresta 1, 2, and 3 all are. Unfortunately for us yanks,
the Cresta was a british model that wasn't sold in the
US. They show up on ebay once in a while. I have one
that actually has a fun lens (or is that lense)
Anyone have any info about direct positive black and white papers or a
method for developing any bw papers to be positive after development?
Photo Warehouse had some direct positive paper, but it was somewhat high
contrast.
I haven't been able to find a reasonablly priced 4 x 5 filmholder on eBay -
I quit at a certain price or someone else just wants them worse than I do.
Can someone please explain the similarity or difference between 'film
holder' like Lisco, Graflex, etc. and so called 'film packs'? Physical
Kate, I don't think I mentioned distortion in my post. A faster ZP has
more clear rings, but that causes no distortion, the ZP camera still is free
of linear distortion (at least). The increased number of clear rings
increase the
ratio noise/signal, tho. Noise is the light that reaches
I do not think eather 116 or 616 film is made; only 120 today.
Gordy
116 and 616 were discontinued in 1984. See:
http://www.geocities.com/thombell/oldroll.html
I know we had a discussion about the availabilty of 116 film recently.
However, I can't remember if this covered the question of 616 format vs
116 format.
I just discovered that I have a Kodak 616 folder with negative sizes 4
1/4 x 2 1/2 that is virtually new. Inside it says to use 616
What's 127 film and will anything else fit (120?), or did I buy a useless
box camera?
See: http://www.frugalphotographer.com/
for 127 film.
I think technically they should be refocused (anyone, please correct me if
I'm wrong).but in practical terms my experience is, they needn't be. Try
simply setting it to it's designed focal length and shootingIMHO little
out of focus softness is often a plus.
Mike
In a
so i went to the photographica show at waltham (massachusetts) high school
this morning. bought a bunch of stuff.. a polaroid land camera, a couple
cable releases, some developing tanks and reels, a viewmaster(tm), etc. i
also bought a manual 35mm SLR for my girlfriend. bought some film.
I have the project to expose a color negative during one year with a
pinhole camera...
The picture should represent the trajectory of the sun from winter to
summer solstice and inversely and, I hope, a weird representation of
the landscape.
I'm thinking of using a ND 120 filter (-20
Murray writes:
BUT, people are telling me I will probably be disappointed by anything
larger than 5 x 7 or so from my 35 mm pinhole negatives because they say
pinhole images are not very sharp.
Is this just anecdotal advice from people who simply poked a hole without
consideration of all
Hi - about ten years ago I used Quaker Oats containers in my Photo class for
pinhole cameras. Since then, the box has been redesigned and is not suitable
anymore. Does anybody know of a cheap, cardboard container/package that I
could tell students to buy, that would make a good pinhole
In a message dated 6/25/01 1:32:16 PM Central Daylight Time,
johnfarr...@msn.com writes:
to joebe...@aol.com-this is john,astronamers use hydrogen gas -the welding
type for exposures up to 10 hours with no reciprocity problems.i'm putting
together a small aperatus to test this for
This is great - I'm glad I found this mailing list! Ever since Rusty came
to a class that I was taking at MassArt and showed us some of his work I've
been wanting to get involved with pinhole. I took a pinhole class with Alan
Greene at the Cambridge Center for Adult Education this past
Since the subject of exposure has come up agan, I'd like to mention that I've
made an exposure calculator that you can print out and assemble into a dial
like the one found on the Luna-Pro meter, except that it goes to f/2048,
8 hours, and ASA .375. It's available as postscript, gif, jpg, and
Both these factors work together to form an equation that determines how much
light reaches any point on the negative and would assume that the parameters
are: distance-from-the-center-of-the-neg, focal-length and ph-size.
The illumination falls off as cosine to the 4th power of the angle
I think that the way it works is that a light ray will exit at the same
axial angle that it entered, but the radial angle may change. This will
probably cause some loss of sharpness (not an unxpected effect
in pinhole work!) If the effect were totally random, fibers would
not be able to
I don't think you can guarantee that the angle that a light ray enters a fiber
is the angle at which it leaves the fiber, since that would mean an even number
of reflections down the fiber. It there were an odd number of reflections, it
would exit on the other side of the axis of the fiber. I
Andy Schmitt writes:
..gee can't wait to see you try a pinhole in it.. 8o)
See: http://web.mit.edu/invent/www/inventorsA-H/edgerton.html
and scroll down to the picture of Doc Edgerton and the balloon.
Jared McCaffery writes
Fiber optic tubes are the thin plastic tubes often used in fiber optic
decorations like false plant and light displays or fancy Christmas tree
toppers, etc. Fiber optic tubing and cable is also used, in many
different forms and factors, in the electronics industry.
Any recommendations for a fast, easy to use beginner paper, and some clues
for ASA speed of recommended papers? (And why are there no positive
papers??)
Michael Georgoff
Photo Warehouse has a positive paper, but it's pretty high contrast.
Works for some subjects though, but you get
p...@davidmorton.org wrote
Kurt Norlin wrote:
I ran into this the other day, and thought list members might find it
interesting.
http://www.qualitycamera.com/zone%20plate%20.htm
Interesting, but is there much point in a ground glass screen on such a
camera? Can you actually see
I ran into this the other day, and thought list members might find it
interesting.
A HREF=http://www.qualitycamera.com/zone%20plate%20.htm;Untitled Document
/A
Kurt Norlin
Their introduction says a zone plate has infinite depth of field.
That's wrong. Unlike a pinhole, a zone
A spherical shaped film plane would be ideal to maximize the edge
sharpness, I guess I should say: to minimize edge softness (instead), as
well as minimizing the fall-off. Practically, though, cylindrical is the
shape most suitable to accomodate either film or paper. I believe that in
one
I managed to build two rollfilm PH-cameras, but taking test rolls showed
that a viewfinder could be more than handy. I'm thinking of a simple
wire viewfinder but how to set it up? (angles etc.)
Put a wire frame the size of the negative in the front of the camera
and a peephole at the
There's an exhibit at the Boston University Art Gallery called
The Crafted Image: Nineteenth Century Techniques in Contemporary Photography
that includes some pinhole work. http://www.bu.edu/art/
It's there until Feb 25th,
Once again, the web address for See-Through is:
http://www.mistraldetection.com/seethrough.htm
Andy writes
if you use FB paper you can wax/oil them, hence increasing their
transparency.
A recent article in my local paper (The Boston Globe)
reports on an article in New Scientist of Dec 16, 2000, that
Mistral Security of Bethesda, MD has developed a spray
called
Guillermo writes
BTW, taking about ZP, there is an article in that Shutterbug Feb/2001
edition about some Canon glass lenses using Diffractive Optics, the same
principle ZP lenses use. This new lenses (no yet released) use fresnel
lenses in combination with glass lenses.
I thought the
Don't confuse ortho and litho. Ortho means orthochromatic, which is
film sensitive to blue and green but not red. Litho means lithographic,
which is very high contrast. The Ilford Ortho Plus film is a normal
contrast film that happens to be orthochromatic.
Edward Levinson wrote:
I keep getting a lot of list messages that are in formats other than plain
text. The plain text comes first, then is followed by html looking stuff of
the same message. It is a real pain to scroll through this stuff especially
on the digest version.
To extend this
Thanks for the dial calculator. I downloaded it and am going to make one.
I have been using something similar but it is a bit more cumbersome. I made
a long slide-rule with all of the f-stops and speeds projected beyond my
handheld light meter. The only information my slide rule has that
I can think of a few things that might affect zone plate image quality,
the number of zones, the density of the dark and light zones, the thickness
or characteristics of the zone plate film. Has anybody done some experiments?
I'm kinda a novice at this stuff, what exactly is the difference in
pinhole and zone plate??
I've got some zone plate info on my web page:
http://linux.bbn.com/~koolish/
The Boston Photographica Show, 200 dealers of used equipment and images
is this weekend October 28-29 at Waltham High School, Waltham MA. Run
by the Photographic Historical Society of New England.
Mea culpa. Sorry to have sent this to the list. I meant to
reply privately but hit the send button before I checked the
address on the email.
http://web.pdx.edu/~harveyt/USsundialPin.jpg
Is that a real working sundial? And where is it?
And would you mind if I sent a note about
If you haven't used ortho film before, do a safelight test on a small piece
of film before you handle a large piece of film under the safelight. There
is no guarantee that a safelight that is OK for one material is safe for a
different film or paper.
I'm posting an image to the list to test out a couple of things.nbsp;
First, to be sure the list will handle it. And second, to find out
how it might affect various user's mail.
Not all of use read mail with browsers, so sending images in messages
is hard to handle. Better to post to
Ortho means orthochromatic while litho means lithographic. In general,
ortho and litho are different, with ortho just meaning a film not sensitive
to red while litho is a very high contrast film, usually requiring a
special developer. Kodalith Ortho was both ortho and litho,
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