When I first installed fenders on my Model D, I had to deal with horizontal
dropouts, and didn't. I just let the bolt pull the steel fender forward.
Later, to clean things up, I used a long bolt, but drilled, cut, and sliced a
rubber cork (the type chemists use in flasks) for a snug fit over
Go to around 2:49 of this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lG_WZVS9SUYRivendell produced in
installing fenders. You can see what they did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lG_WZVS9SUY
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I've used a wine bottle cork as a spacer when the bridge mount is farther
away than it should be. Works great!
Anton
ridingthecatskills.com
On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 6:38:14 AM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:
Go to around 2:49 of this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lG_WZVS9SUYRivendell
I don't post much but I follow everything. Glad you are up and riding again
Bob. Your island photos are terrific too!
-Bill
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+1 on the wine cork idea.
--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
On Jun 11, 2014, at 4:40 AM, Anton Tutter atut...@gmail.com wrote:
I've used a wine bottle cork as a spacer when the bridge mount is farther
away than it should be. Works great!
Anton
I do appreciate the pictures on Rivendells site that shows the calipers,
tire and rim all in one shot, makes it a bit clealer and seems a simple
system for at least having some baseline.
On Jun 11, 2014 1:13 AM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:
More or less, and whether 2mm out of 32 should be
Mid-80's Treks are, IMHO, some of the *best* bikes ever made. I've owned a
620, a 560, and a 400, all from that period, and I built up a 560 for my
son before my own (his was a 49cm and his first decent bike; it inspired me
to get one for myself. Mine was a 57 (approx measures in both cases).
I used a long bolt and a spring as a spacer. I don't have to remember to
remove a cork/spacer before removing the wheel. That's good for the times
I'm fixing a flat on the road. My Riv Road has forward facing horizontal
dropouts (Campy 1010).
Sometimes I have to re-adjust the spring after
If the bolt engages enough of the threaded hole, you should be fine.
Cork works (Anton and others use this-- plenty-o-pics on Flickr showing it)
Aluminum spacer works (Riv video posted earlier shows Mark doing this)
Plastic spacer works (Peter White's method, see ~7th pic or so
The spring thing is really only needed with horizontal dropouts. Getting a
tire past the fender is a PITA without it, but for vertical drops any
spacer will do.
On Jun 11, 2014 9:43 AM, Shoji Takahashi shoji.takaha...@gmail.com
wrote:
If the bolt engages enough of the threaded hole, you should
Jim-
That's the situation on my Riv Road. I use a P-clamp, a long bolt, a
spring, several washers, and a locknut. It's not 100% secure, but the
tension from the spring and from the fender itself keep it together with no
squeaks.
I don't have a picture, but I could get you one tonight.
On
What if you have no accommodation for a fender on the seat stay bridge at
all? I am currently using rubberized P clamp and a zip tie, but it's not
very elegant and I have to fiddle with it constantly. Any suggestions?
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 8:42 AM, Shoji Takahashi shoji.takaha...@gmail.com
On 06/11/2014 09:57 AM, Jim Bronson wrote:
What if you have no accommodation for a fender on the seat stay bridge
at all? I am currently using rubberized P clamp and a zip tie, but
it's not very elegant and I have to fiddle with it constantly. Any
suggestions?
Drill and tap a hole on the
When you're tall enough for a 71cm (even a 68 or 66), you should look into a
36er. Better proportions, better stability etc.
Let me know if you need attest ride, I'm in the Bay Area.
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There's a lot to like. The frame geometry is excellent. The only bother is
they don't accommodate tires more than about 32mm with fenders.
Our family has a 610, 613 and 620. All from early '80s. There's an 830
Antelope frame waiting for love.
I like the 613 best. It has side tacked seat stays
That's a terriffic Atlantis build. Do you have front panniers for that
rack yet?
On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 7:36:29 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:
Finally finished this up at 1am last night so I could ride to work today!
It's still missing some Velo Orange fenders and King Iris cages, but they
Not yet. I was thinking about getting some Swift Industries panniers with a
matching rando box-bag. I noticed during the Oregon Outback that they were
testing some new lower profile front panniers that look pretty interesting.
I'll probably wait until those come out to decide.
In the mean
I ended up making a stainless bracket in the shape of a shallow U with
holes drilled on either side. One side is fastened to the threaded hole in
the bridge, the other to the fender with nylon insert nut.
So it serves as a standoff.
I needed to bend one side of the U slightly to make it parallel
I'm 6'7 and not really interested in esoteric wheel sizes. And I'm using
650B anyway on my Rivendell. Granted, I would probably use 700Cx38 Barlow
Pass if my Riv had clearance for that size with fenders, but the 650B is
fine, really.
A solution looking for a problem, perhaps? What is the
Hi All,
I am looking for a ride either from San Diego/LA area north or from
Portland south to the 20 Anniversary Gathering. I plan to ride south to
Santa Barbara after the event so I am looking to arrive without a car.
Thanks.
Curtis
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I totally agree with you. You also have to know that Berto's curve is an
average of a lot of tires he tested. I have his raw data, and different
tires deflect very differently. A supple tire will give you 20% tire drop
for the same pressure where an ultra-stiff one gives you 5% or less. (In
Great looking build! How are those tires treating you for on and off road
riding?? Really tempted to try them out soon.
On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 7:55:47 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:
Not yet. I was thinking about getting some Swift Industries panniers with
a matching rando box-bag. I
Indeed - finely set up and looking great!
- Jim
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To post to
thanks for all the interest: my 68cm Quickbeam has sold. I'm also selling a
68.5 cm Schwinn Voyageur SP frame/fork/racks, for anyone looking for a
really nice, inexpensive large frame. Ad is here:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bik/4512162763.html
thanks
Arthur S
Tacoma
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Excellent build and a first ride that bodes well for many future rides on
your Atlantis.
~Tom
On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 7:36:29 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:
Finally finished this up at 1am last night so I could ride to work today!
It's still missing some Velo Orange fenders and King Iris
Yes. I think you can ride your own ride even when riding someone else's
pace. As Deacon, suggested, if you're comfortable with pushing the pace (or
slowing it down) to ride with others then that is your ride for that
event. In my experience, riding slow to stay with someone when you'd
much
I used this kit to lower my Big Front Rack, positioning the rack further
from the brakes. Worked like a charm on my Hunqapillar with CX-70 brakes.
Tektro CR-720's would definitely not work.
http://www.tubus.com/product.php?xn=35
I may have an older version of the rack because the mounting
$499 for list members, $550 for the unwashed masses. More info here:
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/4515526421.html
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I doubt the tt is 57 cm c-c, but just in case: what is it? I'd love one
that fit me, and 60 X 56.5-57 is just right.
Condition? Looks good, but the photos are somewhat obscure.
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 12:22 PM, William! william.c.hender...@gmail.com
wrote:
$499 for list members, $550 for the
I believe the TT is 58. I can measure when I get home. Condition is very good.
There are some minor paint chips (mostly on the underbelly of the DT, some have
been touched up) but the steel is immaculate.
William
On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 at 12:24 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
I doubt the
Thanks. Again, it is a very long shot, but if it is 57 or slightly less, I
am interested. Center to center, please.
Also, is the seat tube angle no more than 73*?
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 1:26 PM, William Henderson
william.c.hender...@gmail.com wrote:
I believe the TT is 58. I can measure
I’ll double check. I have no idea how to measure the ST angle. Today’s Road
Logics list
(http://ritcheylogic.com/media/catalog/product/cache/7/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/w/e/web-geo-road-logic.jpg)
at 73.5º for this size frame, not sure if that has changed since this frame
was
I love them. They are particularly fantastic in the winter, if you happen
to live/ride where it snows. They roll nicely on pavement as there is
nearly a solid treat pattern down the centre, and they're great when run at
a lower pressure as well. I'm planning on getting a second pair for a
I wonder how you can judge something without riding it.
I have ridden the 71cm Rivendell bring 6'6 with 99cm inseam.
I have worked for years on the 36 wheel bikes (my company is DirtySixer) to
make a safer and more stable ride. More comfortable. More efficient with
proportionate cranks.
The
ISO is 787.
Tires are available and 2.25 created by VeeRuber.
I'm working in a road tire.
Of course they are not available at your LBS but I never had the need to change
a tire in the wild after 2 years and thousands of hard miles (and two flats) on
road, trails and even raced (sea otter).
I
Very interesting; I knew of the 36ers that were sold in the '90s --
erstwhile Dick It's not worth my time to look for that item Hallet of
ABQ's most interesting bike shop had one in his lot -- but thought these
were merely gimmicks trading on the baby boomer little boy nostalgia that
brought
That's a cool old Schwinn, and would fit me, but would be unacceptable to
She Who Must Be Consulted.
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 11:56 AM, art rthrstrum...@gmail.com wrote:
thanks for all the interest: my 68cm Quickbeam has sold. I'm also selling
a 68.5 cm Schwinn Voyageur SP frame/fork/racks,
More cool:
http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/04/26/soc13-dirty-sixer-builds-36-wheeled-mtbs-for-the-exceptionally-tall/
1.5 head! *10 inch rotors!!*
The photo (scroll down) of the 6'10 tester makes the bike look just right.
I remember a long-time-ago photo in Bicycling of a road frame custom built
Patrick, the 36 cruiser bike you mention were novelty bike built by Coker, who
were the pioneers in 36 wheels. These bikes were built for normal sized riders
(hence their ugly proportions) and suffer from toe overlap even with ridiculous
small cranks. They are heavy and not road or trail
Greens preferred.
Got a new build coming up and given all the Barlow Pass activity of late, I
figured I would check here before buying new ones =).
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My comments were not constructive? Ostensibly, tall people like me form
your customer pool, and I'm also the owner of two full custom bikes, which
is another thing that would put me in your target market. I'm just trying
to give you my viewpoint as a tall person who owns many different bikes, in
Hi William, I have some greens - my daughter put some panic scrub marks on
them with her V-brakes.
She didn't like them (is riding Parigis now and Loves them)
I had one folded up for awhile that I carried for an unused-spare.
Not many miles and light weight on them.
I'll pack them up and
pm sent
On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 3:14:42 PM UTC-5, William! wrote:
Greens preferred.
Got a new build coming up and given all the Barlow Pass activity of late,
I figured I would check here before buying new ones =).
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Hi Jim sorry if I wasn't clear. I'm extremely interested in feedback from you
and other tall riders, I'm just not sure a wheel size available for more than
10 years and now having new lighter tires available (thus online) make it
esoteric. You can use 29 tubes in a 36 wheel by the way. Of
Yes about the 32 limit. I fought that while using this as a commuter. I
even filed off some material on the bottom of the crown to keep the fender
from rubbing. But with 650B 38 mm tires I have room to spare. It did
require moving the canti studs, but when adding SS couplers and paint,
This matches my experience. I bought the G.B. Cerf and they grew from 27
to 29 mm after about 1 or 200 miles. The 27 fit my old racing bike, the 29
didn't! I love them on my Ram though.
Michael
On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 8:52:09 PM UTC-4, joe b. wrote:
Hi Anne,
Also keep in mind that
Very good point, Deac - I've noticed with Challenge and Vittoria open
tubulars, which are rated for wide pressures, they stretch like crazy with
a few days a high pressure.
On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 8:01:44 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Try inflating them to max pressure for a night or a
My Parigi Roubaix measure 30 mm on older Open Pros.
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 3:39 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
This matches my experience. I bought the G.B. Cerf and they grew from
27 to 29 mm after about 1 or 200 miles. The 27 fit my old racing bike, the
29 didn't! I love
Jan, thank you for clarifying this. Your more recent published opinions on
the subject seem to imply that pressure doesn't really matter, if you
have good tires.
I found working with the Berto guidelines to really help me get a mental
handle on useful pressures, but I'm not a slave to the
my Strada Biancas mesure 33mm on Synergy
On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 4:50:54 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
My Parigi Roubaix measure 30 mm on older Open Pros.
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 3:39 PM, Michael Hechmer mhec...@gmail.com
javascript: wrote:
This matches my experience. I bought the
I'm also a big fan of the mid-80s Treks. I have an '83 720 and it has been
getting a lot of miles recently. It still has the 27 wheels but I'm
thinking about going to 700C to get more fender room. Like Michael, I also
have a Ram and I find both bikes have similar handling.
--
You
One more anecdote that supports this. I've found that, while tires with
lighter casings require more pressure for the same -- what is the word, for
the same amount of cushion and rim protection, they also seem to perform
better at a wider range of pressures, at least in this, that they don't
Protect the rim and keep the tire reasonably centered on it during
cornering (don't go too soft) and protect your bike and body (don't go too
hard).
The rest is experimental, subjective, personal preference.
This is not my attempt to wrap this topic up, just the only thing I can
add. We're
For the record, I, Patrick, use no tire gauge or micrometer; my only rule
of thumb is my thumb (and forefinger). Certain tires ride best when, after
inflation, they feel thus when you pinch them.
Scientific enough for me.
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 4:10 PM, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:
Grant, perfect plan. Friday I left my phone at my desk, so I hauled my
bike into town Saturday morning to ride a trail. When I got to the end of
it, there was a guy heading past the construction, around the Army base to
the lower creek trail - not knowing how to get there, I asked to tag
I know this was mentioned in a previous thread, but this last weekend while
cleaning the bike I opted to skip the rather pricey liquid teflon spray
I've been using the last 7 years. Instead, I grabbed the gallon of Ace
chainsaw bar oil off the next shelf, putting a large dab on a rag, and
http://newalbioncycles.com/starling/
I honestly didn't know they made bikes out of high ten steel anymore.
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This is high ten as well:
http://newalbioncycles.com/homebrew-road-bike/
On Jun 11, 2014, at 7:04 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
http://newalbioncycles.com/starling/
I honestly didn't know they made bikes out of high ten steel anymore.
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gas pipe is the term I heard on this list to describe it. Trek was
making entry level comfort bikes with it up to about 2000.
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 6:04 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com
wrote:
http://newalbioncycles.com/starling/
I honestly didn't know they made bikes out of
Hi Folks
Here's a 48cm Hunqapillar cleaned up and ready for another camping trip.
Sorry for the lousy photo. I'm not very tall and the Bullmoose bars are
VERY high even for my good taste in high bars -- even with the stem slammed.
I am thinking of cutting the steerer down by 10 or 15mm. That
I don't think that this is a Michael problem. I have several Brooks
saddles, the two black ones have worn unevenly. Interestingly, one sags
more on the left and the other more on the right. Brown saddles from
approximately same era (and more saddle time) have not worn the same. I
have
When I built up my Roadeo I had to cut the threaded part of the steer tube
down to fit the Chris King headset and everything worked out fine. I used a
clamp that I had that allows me to get a hacksaw blade perpendicular to the
tube and remain steady and I just cut away. First, make sure you
Practically new, beautifully constructed bag. I tried it one time and it
doesn't suite me. My leg isn't flexible enough to mount/dismount with a
saddle bag.
Google Frost River for picture and specifications.
Price = $100 plus actual shipping to purchaser's location via USPS. Paypal
only.
Don
Yes - on a threaded steerer use a guide. You don't want to freehand cut
across threads if you can avoid it. And a good, sharp saw blade and
plenty of oil.
You do want to chase the threads afterwards, and RJM's suggestion is a nice
hack. Not precisely a show finish but it will take care of
Price drop. Now $435
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At the moment, I have 25mm of spacer plus the tange headset.
Thanks for the replies.
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On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 5:49:30 PM UTC-7, Ginz wrote:
Hi Folks
Here's a 48cm Hunqapillar cleaned up and ready for another camping trip.
Sorry for the lousy photo. I'm not very tall and the Bullmoose bars are
VERY high even for my good taste in high bars -- even with the stem slammed.
Great looking bike!
Makes me want one!
Anyone know if Riv has a 54cm in stock!?
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Here's a little bar stem package.
Nitto Technomic Deluxe 26.0 clamp (10cm in length). Few marks on quill but
very nice othewise.
Nitto Neat Mod 185. 26.0 clamp (44cm wide). Some marks old bar tape but
otherwise okay.
Both = $70 shipped in CONUS (PayPal okay as long as fees are covered)
Have you tried the 'lean the bike way over to get your leg over' trick? If
you can clear the saddle, you should be able to clear the bag behind it.
I'm kinda creaky, too, and it took me a while to get the hang of it, but
it's fine now. I definitely didn't think it would be fine after my first
I've been using Bar Chain oil for lube the last couple months. I'm also
experiencing quieter chains and shifts, but also waiting for longer term
results.
If nothing else, it's making me pay more attention to chain cleanliness and
lubrication, so that's a benefit.
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 5:44
Thanks everyone. I worked a little bit on filing down the edges of the
saddlebag loops. Then, because the loops are black and electrical tape is
black, I wrapped electrical tape around the loops a few times. I'll try it
out for a few weeks and report back.
On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 1:10:30 PM
Evening, folks. I have a few things listed for sale on a craigslist post in
Austin http://austin.craigslist.org/bik/4505014178.html, but wanted to
share it here as well. Some of the pieces are pretty generic, but I also
have a 42cm Nitto Noddle bar in excellent condition, and a pair of Kuyokuto
I mean this only with the utmost kindness and consideration, but that bike
looks too big for you.
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 7:58 PM, Eric ericwolfo...@gmail.com wrote:
Great looking bike!
Makes me want one!
Anyone know
Bob:
Reads like you're well on the way to complete recovery. Good news. I had a
complete hip replacement in 2007. It didn't take but a few months to get
back on the bike but it took at least a year to feel 95%. Occasionally I
still get a some pain in that area but it comes and goes. I'm
There are quite a few bikes made with hi ten these days. I think there's a
general knowledge in some circles that steel bikes are desirable, but not
an understanding of why, or where differences in steel are important. Most
are the cheap single speeds (complete bikes for 250-450) for late to
William:
Those are great bikes. I have one the same color in a 58cm. I bought the
frame in 1996. It looks new and has all Campy components. However, you
would have to pry it from my cold, dead hands to get at it. I wish you
the best of luck with the sale. Again, a really, really nice bike!
Yep. Beautiful bike, and I've enjoyed all your posts on building it, from
frame to crank to this.
For what it's worth, I just got a pair of Swift mini roll tops and they are
fantastic. Well made, thoughtful, and the funky colors are just super. If
not Swift, then Ruthworks. And if not
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