No, and no.
Your repeater would be putting out about 65 - 85 % of your 4 watts, based on
the type of duplexer setup.
v44kai.Joel.
- Original Message -
From: x.tait.tech
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 4:47 AM
Subject: Re:
I was thinking it should be 39 Watts. The 4 Watt HT added to the 35 Watt rating
of the Duplexer.
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joel Liburd v44...@... wrote:
No, and no.
Your repeater would be putting out about 65 - 85 % of your 4 watts, based on
the type of duplexer setup.
NoNo..No.and
again.NO.not at all.not ever
On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 7:46 PM, burkleoj joeburk...@hotmail.com wrote:
I was thinking it should be 39 Watts. The 4 Watt HT added to the 35 Watt
rating of the Duplexer.
Well I don't know how you guys got the idea I am going to leave a bunch of junk
on our tower, but that is not the case. Sorry. IF we stay on this tower we will
replace the antenna, IF we move, the old tower will be removed. There will not
be a next guy.
I am simply looking for 220 duplexers
Looking for the following
Quantity 2 - UHF power divider ( 500 w ) single input, dual output ( 2 x
splitter ) 455 - 465 range
2 - VHF power splitter ( 500 watt ) configured as above 151 - 159
range
Ed K9QPJ
Hello Group
We may require a VHF Combiner 2 to 4 channels ( 125 w input / chan ) and an
associated receiver multicoupler.
Looking for what is out there in inventory - we will probably need to make a
purchase within the next 10 days.
Regards to all
Ed Folta K9QPJ
My point was that if you get a duplexer, you should still consider removing the
bad antenna as it could cause you grief. If the re-locate looks like it is
going to be in a few months, I'd probably ride it out and leave the antenna
until the entire tower comes down. It sounds like you are the
Stan,
I sent something to your personal email the other day. Have you seen it? It may
be what you need.
Jim
WA2RJP
- Original Message -
From: Stan
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 07:29
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] 220 duplexers
Josh,
Ed's description for tuning is right on the money.
I would try moving the unit just a slight bit to get used to how it tunes
before trying to move it over such a wide frequency range. Once you are
comfortable with your equipment and how the duplexer tunes, then move it to
the new
I believe Bury Flex has foil/braid combination construction. If this is the
case, I'd suggest not using it in a repeater installation. I'm pretty sure it's
in the 9913/9914 family. I'd suggest a piece of 1/2 Heliax.
Now, if the antenna is only going to be 20' from the repeater, you may still
Thanks Chuck, After getting the cable in front of me ( which was AFTER I
posted the question) and peeling back the jacket, I saw the foil and braid
shielding, so you are correct. Looks like another hybrid of LMR-400, etc.
This will be used around some tight turns where heliax might be difficult
Some Heliax Superflex may help.
Chuck
WB2EDV
- Original Message -
From: Michael Ryan
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 9:06 AM
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Using DAVIS BURY FLEX
Thanks Chuck, After getting the cable in front of me
I have a rack mount set of four square duel N connector port cans made by
Decibel, model SP4626 on freq 465.500MHz
What do I own?
Where can I get data spec sheet on these cans?
Can they be used as 440 duplexer cans? What needs to be done?
I did notice the coax jumpers are 7 t/t, and my 440
Lane, what frequency are you trying to go on'? Houston has a waiting list
for VHF and UHF is pretty full. I think if you look around Houston proper is
covered fairly well. Look at the www.txvhffm.org web site. You can do
search's there. If you would like to set up and play there are several UHF
The project can be fun, and educational...but are you talking amateur or GMRS?
If amateur, look here:
http://www.txvhffm.org/repeater/
Set location to Houston and the hit search. But look at surrounding towns as
well.
As far as coordination goes, there is a waiting list on 2 meters, not on
Hello,
Got situation where the 'elastic' or whatever inside RX IF transformer
has disintegrated through age allowing ferrite core to drop to bottom
thus negating adjustment.
What successful fixes have been found for such a problem which will
continue to allow adjustment yet not jam the core?
I've always heard about inserting a small diameter piece of rubber band in
between, but have never found anyone that actually had it work.
If it were me, I'd get some bees wax, melt it, and quickly dip the core in
it using a tuning tool so as not to coat the innards. This would put a small
I've used a small rubber band or some thread. Most of the time, I've had to
trim the rubber band with a razor blade to get very narrow. I've also
coated the thread in wax prior to dangling it into the tube.
73,
Mike
WM4B
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Hello Josh.
Look under the caps between the coax connectors.
That should be the notch adjustment.
They may not go that low,but all you can do is try.
Good luck.
Butch, KE7FEL/r
On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 6:53 PM, Josh josh.kit...@gmail.com wrote:
Ok so here's what I've got (I think)
Simple answer: Do you have repeaters that cover the same area yours
would cover?
Joe M.
Lane wrote:
Hi all,
I've been interested in building a repeater for a while now, but before I do,
I guess the first step is in knowing whether or not a repeater is needed for
my area.
I live in
Hi Doug,
I have had this on many occasion, my first experience was, what the heck I'm
going to do now! I have tried thread, wax, rubber band and others, best
that works 100% of the times are the (right size fishing line) and my
favorite plumbers tape (wrap it on the threaded core) I keep a
Hello again and thank you all for the input.
I shall try the thread/wax combination but remembered I had a plumbers
wrench kit which has a roll of PTFE, wrapped some on one of the three
cores which have dropped out and it works a treat.
Good idea Joel.
Best regards,
Doug - GM7SVK
On
You are welcome,
Just make sure you wind the tape the same way you would for the pipe thread
(right hand for tightening) so that when screwing it in the thread will seal
it, then taking it out wouldn't be a problem.
v44kai.Joel.
- Original Message -
From: Doug Hutchison
You need to be careful with Beeswax. it can hold the core tight enough that you
break it.
From: Chuck Kelsey wb2...@roadrunner.com
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, May 29, 2010 11:46:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Transformer cores
Yep, thought that might be a problem when it sets.PTFE is a good
solution...been winding the cores in and out for over 15 minutes and no
problems.
Thank you,
Doug
On 29/05/2010 18:50:09, Bill Smith (brsc...@yahoo.com) wrote:
You need to be careful with Beeswax. it can hold the core tight
Very very good Doug,
It always work for me, never had to even undo one.
v44kai.Joel.
- Original Message -
From: Doug Hutchison specialq@ntlworld.com
To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 3:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Transformer cores
Ok so here's what I've got (I think)
http://www.n2ckh.com/FORSALE/REPEATERS/DUPLEXERS/DB4076/DSC02678.JPG
Hamvention special, 4 cavities, appears to be a DB Products
4076 family unit. My bench tools: HP 8924c w/ Spec Analyzer
and Tracking Generator.
There was a guy at the Hamvention
I am amased to say the least to fathom, how without brute force, less wear
and tare, ( Must have been many years constant retuning ) to wear out the
slug cavity, that allowed the ferrit slug to fall through the threads to the
bottom of the can
most tips and hints have already been covered, and
Certainly not what I was expecting... Yeah, I bought one from 'that guy'.
It's more than an untrained eye - he straight lied to me... said 'under these
caps are where you'll tune the capacitors' - I should have popped one off and
looked down the hole. Maybe he was clued in, maybe he wasnt -
how much space is needed between the TX and RX ant and which type of cable to
use ?
I also bought a set(x4) of these model DB SP4626.
Reading this string I decided to investigate my Dayton cans further. They have
a goof plug covering the notch hole with no cap inside. They are all copper
cans.
I cracked one open (just a thin bead of solder on two sides holding the copper
I'm having COS issues with my motorola micor. I've got a normal audio/squelch
board modded per these
instructions
http://www.repeater-builder.com/micor/station-a-s.html
I'm unable to recover COS from pin 13 of J2 (pin 8 of the audio sq board).
Any thoughts?
Side note, related or unrelated, I
I will apologize in advance, as I am an extreme newby in the world of repeater
building / operation.
We've been donated a UHF Motorola Micor system. The system has documentation
that shows that it once ran at 78W out in commercial service.
Being an amateur radio operator without a
Brian,
Here's what your project would look like.
First, you'll need crystals. Those can be ordered.
Second you'll need access to a 'test set' of sorts for the micor. There are
several types, this'll set you back $20 to $100 (depending what test set you
get). This is necessary to 'tune' the
All is not lost Josh - I'm running Motorola T1507 which are 4-can
pass-only cavities on my Micor. Actually pass-only are better for
commercial sites since they will help keep out a lot of intermod on
either side of how they are tuned.
Pass-notch on the other hand will pass the tuned
Depends on the power level. What type of site will the repeater be
located at? A duplexer is probably going to be cheaper than a 2nd
antenna and 2nd run of superflex.
73-N5VFF/Brian
On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 7:21 AM, Robert bobe...@yahoo.com wrote:
how much space is needed between the TX and
At 08:31 PM 05/29/10, you wrote:
I will apologize in advance, as I am an extreme newby in the world
of repeater building / operation.
No apology needed. We've all had to start somewhere.
We've been donated a UHF Motorola Micor system. The system has
documentation that shows that it once ran
it is 50 watts out, its at my home , and no other repeater with miles of
this location and i have the ant and hard line
--- On Sat, 5/29/10, ZPO geekdownra...@gmail.com wrote:
From: ZPO geekdownra...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] GMRS Repeater ANT (UHF)
To:
Here is a link to a page on the RB web site -
http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/separation.html
Per the graphs - 25-30ft of vertical separation between antenna centers
should get you approximately 65dB of isolation. 800-900ft of horizontal
separation would be required to get the same
Robert,
I put 50 watts and 0.3 uV at GMRS frequencies into my Comm Shop for Windows
program, and it suggests that 73 dB of isolation is needed to avoid desense.
This amount of isolation can be achieved with about 39 feet of vertical
antenna separation or about 1020 feet of horizontal separation.
I trust Eric's experience and software more than my SWAG any day.
Given the prices for mobile notch duplexers, I don't see a reason not
to use one.
73-N5VFF/Brian
On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 10:05 PM, Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net wrote:
Robert,
I put 50 watts and 0.3 uV at GMRS frequencies
I was asked the other day by a friend if you could use an older mobile (Micor,
Mitrek, Mastr II and Exec) that has been duplexed for a repeater in GMRS,
public safety, etc. I told them that I was pretty sure it was legal since the
transmitters are FCC type accepted and as long as they transmit
Thanks to everybody I wll go with the duplexers
--- On Sat, 5/29/10, ZPO geekdownra...@gmail.com wrote:
From: ZPO geekdownra...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] GMRS Repeater ANT (UHF)
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, May 29, 2010, 10:22 PM
I trust Eric's
43 matches
Mail list logo
