Anybody have a schematic for the Micor 100watt PA?
Also can only get about 78 watts out of this thing. Have changed out
the power control board...either board the power doesn't go up or
down. Ideas? Haven't tried this yet;
http://www.hamrepeater.org/micr_uhf.htm (bottom of the page to defeat
The PA is only factory rated at 78 watts...there is no 100 watt Micor amp. Some
however, will do 100...
Lance N2HBA
- Original Message -
From: georgiaskywarn
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 5:44 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA
there is no 100 watt Micor amp
without qualifiers, that is a pretty broad statement
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Captainlance
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA schematic /
Hi All
In the past couple of years I have had to make four long trips (360
round trip mi each) to reseat connector problems in the GE Mastr II
and MVP radios. The environment is ideal with air conditioning in
the low desert South West. The fault has always been on a contact
carrying less
Put some type of residual contact cleaner on it like no-ox or I use a spray
called blue stuff (not blue shower) on pots and contacts with excellant
results.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: Gran Clark
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 9:22 AM
At 08:22 AM 10/30/2008, Gran Clark wrote:
If the pins are silver plated would moth balls be in
order? Remember the moth balls in the Centralab switch boxes to
prevent oxidation?
---I agree with Mike about the contact cleaner - I used to have some
issues with one of my MastrII repeater
Still for sale: 2m WACOM WP-639 Duplexer. Asking $650 + shipping.
Offers considered.
Ok. Let's look at this then.
I have no power control from the Power Control Board. Can't turn it
up or down. Tried 2 different boards as well.
1) Ideas?
2) Don't have the schematic in front of mebut can't find the caps
on the schematics I have...listed from the below web site.
Thanks,
Still For Sale: DB-4701 450Mhz. duplexer 17w x 10d x 3.5h - 14#.
Asking $125. Offers considered.
Pull the control lead off of the amp, it is on the backplane, pin 3( a screw)
on the top left corner. If you have voltage on the screw, your power board is
OK, and the amp is the trouble, usually a bad control stage. if, with the
control lead off, you have no voltage, check the chassis mounted
I'm guessing that'd be the national weather service transmitter at 162 MHz.
Close enough to look like FM broadcast, but the ridiculous power
requirements aren't there. The NWS site north of me uses antennas that
resemble slightly smaller FM transmitter 'loops'.
FM commercial stations use very
Greetings to the group
Just wondering if anyone might have a spare MSR 2000 extender card
they are willing to part with?
Randy Elliott VE3JPU
Technical Director
South Pickering Amateur Radio Club Inc.
Box 53
Pickering, Ontario, Canada
L1V 2R2
905-427-6853
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
What type PA are you referring to ? UHF or VHF ? Model No. ?
The power control Bd on the UHF has 2 pots for setting the output level. Make
sure they are clean (contact cleaner and rotating back and forth while
spraying) The left one, as you face the rptr. sets the upper limit of the
power
Depending on how your card cage is mounted it is possible to pull the card
cage forward exposing the backplane. Cards can then be installed directly on
the backplane. Be sure the cards are oriented correctly when plugging them
onto the backplane. This has the advantage of easy access to
Thanks Bill for the response. Unfortunately the installation of our
MSR 2000 does not give me the option to tilt the main housing forward.
I would have to place the cards onto the back plane pins from the rear
of the rack. Even less accessible.
Randy
On 30-Oct-08, at 2:15 PM, [EMAIL
For the hobbyists that make their own PCB's, here is a good CHEAP PCB etchant.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/
I just made some and tried it. It really works great.
Scott
Scott Zimmerman
Amateur Radio Call N3XCC
474 Barnett Rd
Boswell, PA
The pins that stick through the system board can be gripped with hemostats and
wiggled sideways while still plugged in. This will wipe off any oxide that has
accumulated and will eliminate any bad connections. Doing this periodically on
a radio with a long commute might save a trip.
I also
Yes they will tune up there. RF deck takes a little work, move it
about 5MHz at a time. The PA was good with no mods. I've put several
(6) on 442 - 444 TX 447 - 449 RX with no loss on TX but about .2 uv
on sensetivity. Let me know if you need any parts - I have about a
dozen in my shop.
Bob, did you find what you need? I have several for parting out.
Greg/N5SKE
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob Luttrull [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Hi All
I am looking for the AC power box with the lead to the power supply
for the MSF 5000 case. I have a TPN1185A
I am building an inexpensive UHF repeater. Rather than spend money on
a duplexer, I am considering using 2 antennas. I have had good luck
building small dipoles, and would like to build a collinear pair of
vertical dipoles in a single PVC housing for send and receive.
I am considering building
Well Depending on how much power you will be using, you are looking to need at
least 120' of direct vertical separation between the antennas which the RX
antenna needs to be on the top and the tx on the bottom, and even then, your
still talking about 65 dB of isolation in the best of conditions
Jsn, even with very good radios, you'll want more vertical separation than you
can get in a single piece of PVC pipe. RG-58 will be unsuitable for this
application due to high loss and inadequate shielding. It should also be noted
that common PVC pipe introduces some losses at UHF.
Unless you
Thinking of that, I have also seen mobile duplexers on ebay going for $50.00
sometimes, and even at 15 watts out, and a cheezey 4 can mobile notch filter
would do you much better than trying the 2 antenna deal. Good luck and more
importantly, HAVE FUN.
From:
NahI have a NOAA station Running 1 kw at one of my sites.
they are NOT running on a 2 bay that looks like an FM.
It actually looks like a DB products repeater antenna with folded loops
on 162.***
That 2 Bay on top of that collapsed tower is for an FM station or Translator.
what is the Lat
*I think* this is the number (UHF btw)(Repeater Continuous Duty)
TLE8331A
Getting ready to try some of the things listed below. Let you know
what I find out.
Robert
KD4YDC
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What type PA are you referring to ? UHF or VHF ?
I will do some of the suggestions Doug gave me. I have 15.18v on that
pin.
Thanks,
Robert
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Captainlance
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Pull the control lead off of the amp, it is on the backplane, pin 3(
a screw) on the top left corner. If you have voltage on
TLE 8331A is listed as 406 to 420 MHz. TLE 8333A is 450 to 470 MHz. Not sure
how far you can move out of the rated range for the 8331A but I don't have any
problem with the 8333A moving down to 442 MHz. They are both rated at 75W but
in the operating range can probably be tweeked to a
The outside dimension of 1/2 hardline is about 5/8, including the
insulation. Is the cable smooth or does it have ripples on the
surface? Is the outer conductor aluminum or copper?
My first guess is that you have CATV (cable TV) hardline and the
production number, or date of manufacture,
Thanks Mike and Ken
I must still have some reservation about cleaners because of the
temporary job they did on TV tuners. I guess it is about time to
throw out my tube of General Cement TUNERLUBE.
I will check out your suggestions.
Thanks for the help.
Gran K6RIF
At 08:43 AM
I have the two above mentioned radios for sale.
The Kenwood I know works fine. I programmed a few of the local 440
repeaters into it and had no troubles. The only thing wrong with it is
that the backlight is burned out. Should be an easy fix. Unit comes
with a microphone
The Icom powers up but
That blue stuff that I use has what I call from the TV commercials for Dow
bathroom cleaner, scrubbing bubbles.
It leaves a residue behind that keeps cleaning the contacts, and I think as
well kind of seals them from the air.
I use it on volume pots also.
I have used it on contacts in GE stuff
Do you still have thiss. Would you consider $100 shipped to 33414
Rob. Ks4ec
Sent by Good Messaging (www.good.com)
-Original Message-
From: w4dg.geo [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 01:09 PM Eastern Standard Time
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sorry that was supposed to go direct
Sent by Good Messaging (www.good.com)
-Original Message-
From: Robert Pease [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 11:07 PM Eastern Standard Time
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject:RE: [Repeater-Builder]
At 10/30/2008 17:54, you wrote:
Thanks Mike and Ken
I must still have some reservation about cleaners because of the temporary
job they did on TV tuners. I guess it is about time to throw out my tube
of General Cement TUNERLUBE.
Use good cleaner/protectant you shouldn't have any more
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