Hi Dennis,
This is the same problem I faced when cable internet came down our road, we
were too far back for the standard free install but I could have it
installed across the road and am shooting the signal somewhere between 1500
and 2000 ft with very little problems except for real heavy rain
What are your questions?
_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gervais
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 9:41 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] COR board for simple repeater??
Hi
It has been a long time, butI remember that about where the clamp for the
ground radials is there are 3? large screws. Remove the the screws and the
whole antenna will slide out of the radome by pulling on the RF connector. The
black stuff bonds the aluminum mounting sleeve to the fiberglas
I had to heat the lightning spike with a propane torch, there is a copper
rod soldered to a hole in it. Have someone else pulling the thing out while
you heat, after you remove the 3 screws already mentioned of course.
chris
N9LLO
In a message dated 9/9/2009 5:35:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight
I have a buddy who has a son living about a quarter mile away, and he mounted a
router in a weatherproof fiberglass box on top of his 50 ft tower, and his son
gets a good signal. Getting the router antennas up in the clear was the answer
for that system.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
--- On Tue, 9/8/09,
Good luck on getting any support at all on the RC110. It appears that Ken has
abandoned the folks who bought one of those and you might as well chunk it in
the trash. That is my take on it anyway.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
--- On Tue, 9/8/09, wb7bts wb7...@yahoo.com wrote:
From: wb7bts
What about a local Trunked Simulcast system for a rough reference? They
should be GPS aligned somehow.
Al Wolfe wrote:
Pity that the guy selling all this stuff is in China. I think I'll pass.
Al, k9si
Re: ATSC pilot frequencies for sig. gen. alignment
Posted by: wb6ymh
dont kow why you say that I have had great service from Ken .. sent my
controller back to him .. he checked it out updated all firmware and
sent it back .. it seems it was a cable I made that went bad .. he
made a cable and it works 100% for me now .
I would buy another with out thinking about it
We had the same situation here in Wisconsin. ATT put in a fiber optic
network, so I went with it. I used a Linksys router, model WRT54G (2.4Ghz
802.11g) in conjunction with it and placed it in the attic of the house.
I've got laptop coverage for over a 1/4 of a mile here in the sub division.
It's been awhile for me as well but upon inspection it
was found to have a circular crack around the decoupling
assembly. This was silver soldered and put back into
service. However as the antenna was top mounted, over
time the noise returned due to flexing at the base.
Our ultimate solution
For Sale:
Zetron Model 45B Z-Patch Telephone Interconnect and
Model 64 DAPT-Plus Dial Access Paging Terminal
Both of these units were in operation when removed from service. I really have
no application for this equipment and will take reasonable offers.
Spec information is available by
On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Jim Brown wrote:
I have a buddy who has a son living about a quarter mile away, and he
mounted a router in a weatherproof fiberglass box on top of his 50 ft
tower, and his son gets a good signal. Getting the router antennas up
in the clear was the answer for that
On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Jim Brown wrote:
Good luck on getting any support at all on the RC110. It appears that
Ken has abandoned the folks who bought one of those and you might as
well chunk it in the trash. That is my take on it anyway.
No response might mean he's working on it, he's on
I thought the repeater builder web site had a specific article on how to take
apart that antenna and fix it by soldering wires to the body of the antenna -
but I've been all over the site and can't seem to find that article. Can
anyone provide a link to it?
Also, I have a super stationmaster
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non-directional sampler slug. In coming up with the parts to fill these
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I have (3) ST-853 SmarTrunk II Digital Controllers.
I cannot seem to find any info on these models.
Can anyone supply info on these controllers?
For example, are they capable of PL and DPL or any other formats?
How are they programmed etc, etc.
What exactly is a gain J-pole? Am familiar with J-poles, but... Sounds
interesting.
--John
===
Our ultimate solution was to replace the copper pipe
dipoles with a gain J-pole made out of #12 copper wire
and hung inside the radome from the tip.
It is a discontinued product it is a trunking protocol of it's
own...the docs seem to be gone on the web site but I do have a pdf of
the manual from them. I could email it if you can take a 4.5 mb
attachment... If you want contact me with an address I can email it to..
The product page is...
I checked more thoroughly .. here is the link to the manual at their website...
http://www.smartrunk.com/en/Download/Manuals/st-853_manual_en.pdf
Doug
At 03:22 PM 9/9/2009, you wrote:
I have (3) ST-853 SmarTrunk II Digital Controllers.
I cannot seem to find any info on these models.
Can
there is (was) a special top support made, tubing with an insulated hole on the
end that goes down over the top and then crossover plated to the tower. For
less demanding installations I've used a piece of schedule 40 PVC drilled to
fit over the antenna and crossover plated to the tower. Not
Hi Eric,
Thanks for the info; I'll look into that.
Of course, I am considering using duct tape, as its properties are far superior
than any metal known to man.
Don, KD9PT
- Original Message -
From: Eric Lowell
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September
I have heard you all mention scotch super 33 vinyl electrical tape and
recommended it for a few different uses. Is there still any use for rubber and
cloth type electrical tapes for certain specific tasks?
Duct Tape is like The Force - it has a light side and a dark side and
binds the universe together.
Don Kupferschmidt wrote:
Hi Eric,
Thanks for the info; I'll look into that.
Of course, I am considering using duct tape, as its properties are far
superior than any metal known to
Scotch Super 33 tape is great stuff, but Scotch Super 88 is even better-
it's thicker, has a better adhesive, and it has better UV resistance. Cloth
tape, AKA friction tape, should be pitched into a trash can.
Scotch does make a Linerless Splicing Tape which is self-vulcanizing
rubber, and is
I worked as a licensed apprentice electrician a few years ago and used Super
33, Super 88, Temflex 1710 (regular and MSHA approved), Scotch 35 (for color
coding). I really like the 88 (it is thicker than 33, however, more
expensive). 1710 is not too bad, it has the same thickness as 33,
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