Raleigh - For many years, I've used 3M weather strip cement, yellow(Gorilla Snot) or
Black. Works great on both cork or rubber. Use on one side only.
Scott
VMOA #500
raleigh 2K wrote:
i'm replacing my valve cover gaskets. what can i use to keep the gasket in
place on the cover as i position
Larry - Best bet is to get a Service Manual. It's all outlined in there.
Scott
VMOA #500
Larry Langley (langleyl) wrote:
what is the procedure for setting valves i know the piston
should b TDC but how do u know when your there? and how do u
get there?ive set valves on a MUZ single cylinder
Eric-I agree with you totally. I've used "Dex-Cool" in the V-Max and a Honda
V-45 Magna.Like you said, no silicates or phosphates. A gallon cost about $6.69
and a gallon of distilled water is $.75. That make two gallons of coolant for
$3.22/gal. The local Honda shop sells premix (50:50) for over
Venus - Well said. I agree 100%.
Scott
VMOA #500
paulnvenus wrote:
Dude! that picture was of a past vmoa event. People worked hard to get all
those maxers (24) together to have a litle bit of fun. This picture of the
burnout was done in our parking lot at the hotel. it was to impress no one
Marc - Actually the manual says 26,600 for the first check and every
26,000 after. The V-Max has a very durable valve train. My V-Max has
78,000 miles and have never had to change a shim. Synthetic oil changed
every 3,000 miles.
Scott
VMOA #500
Marcus Hickman wrote:
The owner's manual says
Patrick - Try to isolate which cylinder is making the noise. Disconnect the
sprak lead to each cylinder one at a time and see is the noise stops on the
dead cylinder. Off course you'll have to do this cold when the noise is the
loudest.
If it is located in one cylinder it may be a loose wrist
Hey Mario - Winter does "suck". It only got to 65 today. Sorry, I had to rub
it in
On the "pin" problem, try this. Get a hot melt glue gun and put a little
"dab" in the retainer where the pin comes through. Real cheap too!!
Scott
VMOA #500
Mario C Aguiar wrote:
Hi guys,
I just
TC - Nice try
Scott
VMOA #500
TC wrote:
Vmaxer,
You don't want anything like that on your bike !! The stainless steel
has probably already turned brown etc ... Of course I have a much
older bike that is very sickly ... and it would probably be OK on it
do you have contact
I installed mine in about 2 hrs. The dealer is just greedy.A jet kit is
not necesssary, just shim the needles, but a jet kit will really make a
difference.
Scott
VMOA #500
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Campbel the Exhaust is new in box at a dealership lower tube has
small
scrape was installed on
Jay - The SS pipes will turn brown right at the cylinder head where it makes
the turn. The rest of the system turns bronze or gold looking in short time
from the heat. It retains it's shine and doesn't turn any darker.
Scott
VMOA #500
J. Halanski wrote:
I test rode a Max just the other day
So will the Two Bros. More HP is available with shims or a jet kit but no loss
of driveability with the stock induction system.
Scott
VMOA #500
Steve Morris, SMS wrote:
Except UFO's - it'll run out of the box.
- Original Message -
From: steven detamore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
If you can buy it for $300.00, grab it. I bought mine for $751.00 last
February with a C-4 Carbon Fiber cannister. You have a great deal!!!
Scott
VMOA #500
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am new to this style of tech info Also new to V-Max ownership 2000
with
2200 mi this bike really kicks @##
Watch out for the CBR600F-4, they can run in the 10's. It's time Yamaha does
something for the V-Max's performance when you can get beat by something with
HALF the displacement.
Scott
VMOA #500
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
First off , if I buy a new Busa and it only goes 11.20's I'm bringing it
Rick - If I'm not mistaken, the Virago bar bolts to the sissy bar base abd
replaces the backrest. It is chrome plated, so if you have the sissy bar
chromed. it'll match up fine. Check this out before getting into machining a
special piece.
Scott
VMOA #500
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My OEM Vmax
Rick - The needle slides out of the base with the little positioner on it. The
washer goes between the clip and the base.
Scott
VMOA #500
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have a 2000 max and last Friday my local bike shop agreed to help me shim
my needles. A slow day for them and they had done
Michael - You can do the "Furber Fix" without the metal washer. Just
getting the proper preload on the steering head bearings may solve your
problem, it did for me.
Scott
VMOA #500
Pushcarovich, Michael wrote:
Since the washer to do the furbur fix is no longer available from
Paul, does
Raleigh - All rear calipers on the V-Max have two bleeders, one for each piston.
The original pads have a shim, all the aftermarket pads that I'm aware of use no
shims. I've used EBC pads with no shims and no problem.
Scott
VMOA #500
raleigh 2K wrote:
1992 VMax
Putting new pads on and i
Eric - I've run synthetic auto oil in my V-Max since 2,000 miles, but I'm using
Shell Rotella T in my VFR-800. I have no complaints yet. I tried one change of
"T" in the Max to see if I could detect any difference. Starting is the same,
shifting is the same, no clutch slip, no additional engine
Steve - That'll do it. It's the clear that yellows from the heat. You can buff
out the top of the ribs and paint the recesses with High Temp engine enamel or
just buff out the whole thing. I cleaned off the clear from the ribs with
steel wool and polished them with Mothers. I did this while
Robert - You are so very right
Scott
VMOA #500
Robert F. Smith, Jr. wrote:
There is ONE and only one best oil for your engines,
That is oil that is clean and fresh and meets the manufactures specs.
The %$#*% motor don't care $#*@ for the name on the label.
I'll bet a hundred dollars
William - It's interesting that you mentioned that. My '97 Max used to do that
and I checked everything I could think of. Then it stopped. No reason. Your
mentioning of it brought back the recolleciton of it. Can't be serious or it
would have escallated.
Scott
VMOA #500
William Mcfarland wrote:
TC - I have to agree with Eric on this. Most systems do not have a check
valve. The rare exception would be in a system where the master cylinder
is mounted below the level of the brake caliper. All motorcycles, that I
have ever seen, have the master cylinder higher that the caliper. The same
... if it is not blocking the hole then I don't
need it I guess .. and I couldn't possibly have any residual pressure
in the front brake lines.
campbell
- Original Message -
From: "vmax97" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: check valve
TC - I have to agree with Eric on this. Most
Larry - I don't think it would make any significant difference either
way, at least not any measurable difference.
I drain my oil hot, and let it drain overnite.
I wouldn't be concerned as there is a quart of "dirty" oil left in the
ngine every time you change it.
Scott
VMOA #500
Larry Langley
Dale Walker is in business to make a profit like any sucessful business is. His
parts are way overpriced . He also has parts for many types of bikes and does
not have a serious interest in the V-Max as some of the other vendors do.
Many V-Max vendors give a discount to VMOA members, Walker does
Cory-It's not difficult to change out the swing arm. I pulled mine recently to
re-pack the bearings. Remocve the wheel, remove the shocks, remove the final
drive, remove the swing arm bearing support bolts and it'll come right out. My
seals looked good ('97) so I reused them. If yours are over 5
I did the Double "D" a couple of weeks ago. The increased lever pull is
apparent, but after a couple of weeks you don't even notice it. However the
engagement point is very narrow with the new plate and removal of the wave
spring and the 1/2 plate, but you get used to that too. The procedure is
Hal- Air is about 70% Nitrogen (if I remember my chemistry right). You use such a
small amount you shouldn't worry about moisture. You can use a air hose to charge
your forks, but be very carefull. Just a slight "pop" will do. I've used this
method for years. Then use a air gauge to measure it.
Jim-When Yahmaha went to the larger brakes in 1993, they felt that they could
generate more heat, thus recommended DOT 4 with a higher boiling point. No
problem, they are compatible. Just add DOT-4 to the master cylinder and bleed
untill clear fluid comes out.. Suggest you bleed/flush annually.
Tim-Chances are your clutch is in good shape if it is just starting to slip.
Have you had it apart yet? The diagphram spring gets weak with age. Just the DD
clutch modification may do it. Best prices on parts is KN Cycle in Tulsa, OK.
Just did it to my 97 Max and it cured the problem. $47.96 in
.
Any input will be much appreciated.
Regards,
Charles ( [EMAIL PROTECTED] )
- Original Message -
From: vmax97 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 2:11 AM
Subject: Re: Two Bros Racing oval slip-ons, are you ready for them?
Charles
Charles-I too have a Two Brothers system, only a 4/1 with carbon cannister. I also
read thier warning regards dyno running with the carbon cannister. Ran mine last week
on the dyno. Bike was fully warmed up. After the pull I went over and felt the
cannister for hot spots. None, warm yes, but
Terri-Many years ago I had a boat with a 165 HP Volvo with three SU carbs. I was
way offshore trolling in the Atlantic off the Keys. When I put the power to it,
no go. Upon investigation it found one slide not opening. I took it apart and
found a tear in the diaphram. I used a flat piece of
Eric- Where do you live? I'm about 60 miles SW of Gainesville and thinking
of going.
Scott VMOA #500
Eric Harnish wrote:
Any one going to the Gatornationals this week-end ? Maybe we could meet
up and ride together .
Eric
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Kelly-
You are right. Both bearings are sealed, at least on my 97 Max. Simply
pack grease into the speedo drive.I do every time I change a tire.
Scott #500
Kelly Cash wrote:
The bearings are not sealed for a reason. The speedo drive
coupling needs to run in grease. Thats why on at least
Marius- My 97 does the same thing. Can you spel EPA? The idle system is
set quite lean to pass EPA emmision requirements. When cold, it will
spit a couple of times untill warm. Warm it a few minutes or set the
mixture screws out a 1/4 turn each if you can't wait.
Scott VMOA #500
marius wrote:
To my knowlege Vance and Hines has no system available for the V-Max, just a
variety of mufflers that can be adapted to other headpipes. I could be wrong?
Scott VMOA #500
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Let me throw a monkey wrench into this Exhaust war. How does the VH ss2r
compare to the Hindle
Go to www.twobro.com All info is there.
Scott VMOA #500
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Campbell, thanks for the awesome info. do you or any one else know how to get
a hold of two brothers (web page,phone#)? Since my bike is carbon fiber color
IM considering that as a can. by the way I sent in my
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