Ron, same pipe.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Jerry, 1720.00.
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Dusty I do. Call me 281-584-0395.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Marcus, 518-346-7203.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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I've personally seen three in the Houston area that all went 135 Hp or
better. Thats bolt on and hit the dyno. As far as taking 40 plus dyno
runs to get them dialed in, thats too many. It shouldn't take more than
5 or 6.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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To
Sorry, but they don't look that good. Also too easy for someone to
through something down one, you hit the button and poof! Me I like
sneaky. A guy here I know has a late 70's Malibu, 4 dr., and 502. Nice
and quiet till he blows past with the tires hazing.
Don "Old Man" Smith
Dan, how often do you change the plugs? Mine every 4,000, it starts easy
hot or cold, power stays sharp.
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The black box controls alot of things. If 93 or later you could swap
with someone and eliminate that part. How did it start? Are the wires
and plug caps original? If you have the big book and can use a ohm
meter, follow the trouble shooting section to find the problem. Has the
fuel filter ever
Are you the original owner?
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Didn't think SS or Titanium was ugly!
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Patrick call me!
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Metzler 880.
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281-584-0395.
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Also how much do you weigh?
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Sat, actually I prefer Pirelli's. The Dragon GTS is a good tire rated
pretty high by Motor Cycle News in England, better that a Metzler MEZ4.
Also a friend can get me the Super Corsa's when I get the 17" rear done,
the ones you can't buy. For a 15" rear though, a Metzler 880 will bite
better and
Sat, to watch a friend put a knee down on a R1 with the Pirelli's is
nice. You don't see anyone in Formula Extreme or Formula USA using
Avons. I'm going to have a Suzuki wheel modified for the rear, it'll
match the front.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Patrick, after 4pm.
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Anders, if you don't ride hard, you should have gotten the .90 springs.
The emulators still need to be set and the oil to 19oz. Thats why its
important to get the right rate springs. You don't vary pre load when
you have the right spring. You say the sag is like stock? That right
there tells you
Anders, it takes time for Race Tech's springs to break in. Reset the
preload and find a road that is bumpy as hell and just pound the front.
It will take about 700-1,000 miles for them to break in. When they do
its great. Their springs are made from a better material and are heat
treated to with
The extra oil will make the forks less likely to fade from hard use,
also it will stiffen the compression side up at it reachs maximum
compression. What you need to add also are the travel limiters that wil
pull the tubes down in the sliders about 1.25-1.5 inches and add more
overlap and make
Vic, their getting better, but still have a way to go. As time goes by
the composition changes and they become more brittle. With the advances
in lighter and stronger materials it'd be best to get a new one. Plus
their quieter. Of course for some who think they don't need one, that
their head is
TC, well said! We have a choice, but common sense is another story. If
you get your kicks from pissing on a electric fence, give it hell! Think
I'll stand and watch on that one!
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Vic, it was Ben.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Maybe a new color for the bike as well. Maybe get the motor powder
coated, but it has to come apart. 1327 motor, flat slides
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Dusty, don't hit them. The intake manifolds are only .050-.060 thick at
that point. A long time ago in a place far far waay I found out the hard
way. If all else fails, a pair of Vice-grips. A 5" are real handy to
keep with your tools.
Don "Old Man" Smith
Calvin, the materials change due to sun exposure and chemicals in the
air, plus the resins that bond them together. Ever taken a look at a
fiberglass boat that has been around for awhile? Carbon, kevlar, and
such change. Even metal does.
Don "Old Man" Smith
Jeff, I got a print out, but I don't have any way to scan on web tv.
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Steve, I'm mailimg to Terry tonight. He should have it by mid-week.
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Thomas, Street Comp. Its where Hindle gets his from. Its about 20.00 a
sheet.
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Wayne, yes. Its the same thing Lane Hindle uses, I'll check it in 2002.
In my Hindle it was still good after 3 yr's. Its pretty tuff stuff, use
the whole sheet. Its in 18" 20" long sheets. Its cut to use with a 4"
can, with a Kerker you'll use less and also have to shorten it. Once
you've
Keep it up and I'll make a call to Brazil! At least my bike doesn't have
a patten leather seat with a metallic finish!
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Brian, with tires like a vmax has, tall sidewalls, you have to run the
pressure higher. A side benefit is they will run cooler.
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Scott, you may want to have a small torch handy. They use a thread
sealant and I've had the heads snap off. Use a small amout of heat on
the side of the bolts till it starts to turn. If it gets tight again, a
little more heat until its out.
Don "Old Man" Smith
Dodjie, look on the neck, there should be a white tag with a series of
no's. If you don't have a dealer near you, post them. Also, there should
be a date, month and year, that tells when it was built. If both of
those are gone, the no's. on the motor can be used.
Don "Old Man" Smith
It does help, but make sure it fits correctly. When you tighten the
bolts, make sure nothing is in a bind. Set it on the forks to see if it
sets square and doesn't rock. Some have had to grind some off the bottom
where it sits on the forks.
Don "Old Man" Smith
David, as long as you have the reciepts showing the purchase of oil,
filters, or being done at a independent dealer, it won't void your
warranty.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Steve, with a 6" rim you have to take the rear drive off to get the tire
and wheel on and off. A friend with a 96 goes thru this whenever he
needs a new tire. I saw this for myself. You also have to have the wheel
offset and the swingarm notched. You can do a 51/2 without notching the
swingarm
Steve, you can, but it won't set right on the bead of the rim and you
will have to take the rear assy. off when you change a tire. If you want
more traction, a Dunlop 207 Star, the Pirelli Evo MTR22SC Super Corsa,
or the Michelin Pilot Sport YR1. Don't be suprized if your looking at
the sky when
Ron, yes. There have been some the radius was right and had to be
changed.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Instead of stock discs, the Kevlar from Barnett. I have Carpal Tunnel
too, and also use their pressure plate assy.
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To get the best 60ft.times you can, you need to get the bike down to the
2" minimum. Thats as low as you can legally run. It will let you launch
harder and help keep the front down. Next practice, practice, and more
practice. Start with a stretch of payment that is slicker than a glass
door nob
It's from a 1150E.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Mark, you can also take a ice pick and put a small hole, then insert a
sheet metal screw, vice grips on the end, and pull.
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Larry, the one with the wire wheels, wheelie bar, slick, and Kerker
w/stage 7? The motor was bogus, alot of internal mods.
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At Pro Star and NHRA meets a bike has to have at least 2" of ground
clearance.
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Kurt, a R1 the max will never be. Still the solid mounts willmake a
difference. When you can afford the upgrade, Emulators, springs, and
shocks are next. The stock ones throw in the dumpster, no BS.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Kraig, to be honest they probably won't. There was a tech question in
Cycle World a few issues back, same thing. It was going thru oil a Qt
every 1,000 miles. Thats within Yamahas' so called guide lines.
Personally it sucks.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Someone else had this problem a couple of monthe ago. The pilot jets
were clogged.
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Mark, if the front is getting near replacement, then do both. The
Pirelli Dragon GTS on front makes a good combination. The Metzler 880 is
available in a 110/90-18, but I like the Pirelli better.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Don't feel bad, the guy who had the same problem went thru his carbs
twice before he checked the pilots the 3rd time.
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The Dragon GTS, its available in a 110/80-18.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Jerry, I wouldn't use it very often. The epoxy that holds the slides and
diaphrams together can seperate, I had three at one time happen.
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Sandro, you can replace the starter yourself in under a hour.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Are you sure it is the starter? The side stand and clutch relay could be
bad. There is also a relay at the base of the steering neck. Several
things to check before you spend a bunch of money.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Carlos, how much do you weigh? Also will you be carring a passenger
alot?
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Metzlers'? Here they have Bridgestone or Dunlop. Still they should be
close enough in size. At 60 you should be turning around 3,800 in 5th.
At 80-82, 5,000.
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Charles, check wth nearest distributor that handles Brembos. You want
world class brakes? Look no farther. Also going to 17" wheels will put a
better foorprint in contact with the ground, also a lower center of
gravity. Where ever you can cut weight off a max do so. There's only
about 180 lb's
Call Mark McDade.
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Thomas, Yamaha.
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Give Pat a call at KN.
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Charles, have you checked on the Brembos? You can replace the BS rotors
from the max with ones from Brembo, 300 320 mm. Also a different pad
material. I would bet you could find a wrecked 916 or 996 and get the
calipers. Having brackets made wouldn't cost that much.
Don "Old Man" Smith
Steve, if you don't get enough weight transfer, even a stock max will
lock the front, 85-92 included. Thats when a good suspension comes in.
Having the front kicked out like civitello does, big mistake! You can't
stop the thing, unless you had to lay er' down! You can never have
enough brakes,
Raleigh, keep the springs in before trying to take the bolt out at the
bottom. Also push on the forks, it will help add pressure to keep it
from turning. When you have the bolt loosened, then remove the springs.
If you have a 5 gal. bucket handy bring it to catch the oil. There's not
that much,
V-boost not working? Or did somebody disconnect it? A friend bought a 96
with 3,000 on it. Said he got whipped by a 600. After getting a float
unstuck, he asked what the noise was when he turned the key on. I showed
him it was the v-boost assy. opening and closing resetting itself. Only
thing it
Dave, you've found your problem. Yes they can be a bitch, are the bolts
at least grade 8? If not then you're wasting your time. No it doesn't
press back on. When you tighten the bolt, 40-45 lb's. is plenty, don't
loose the key in the shaft.
Don "Old Man" Smith
760-948-1346
Don "Old Man" Smith
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John, I hope he's buying you dinner too! Thats too much.
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Jerry, it takes more than that. You have to have a system that works,
not just looks good. A system that is designed correctly is free
horsepower. Its like a poor mans supercharger. Using the exhaust gases
to help scavange the intake. Only thing is you want the "wave" to
reverse direction at the
Rick, anytime. You want the truth, you get it. You want someone to lie
to you, not here.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Checked out the wheels, but no info. One set I would have on mine. Scott
tell John to post info as long distance calls can be a pain. One thing I
have found out is can't use stock rotor on rear, also caliper. Also how
much difference in weight? If heavier, then whats the use?
Don "Old Man"
Phil, thats with the flatslides. 160-165hp.
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Steve, different flow characteristics.
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Steve, check your local auto parts.
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Dave, once a year, if in dusty conditions then more often. Just follow
the instructions that come with the cleaning kit, simple as that. Don't
use compressed air. Once you've cleaned them use a hair dryer on a low
setting.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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To
Caros, I haven't seen one, but will go looking this weekend to look at
it.
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Chris, at 2,000 its supposed to cut back. Otherwise it would boil the
battery dry. Early Z-1's had that problem. Around town ok, but hit the
highway for a extended time and no water.
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Ray, the Kerker slip-ons aren't as good as the SuperTrapps.
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Troy as they get older they dry out, and lose their effectiveness. That
is a low torque figure for a max.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Sam, do you have a White Bros. distributor near you? They make a nice
looking set for the max. It has a heavy clear vinyl tubing over the SS.
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Jerry Ferguson is now the head of the organization. Thats who your
complaints should be directed at.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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I got a pair of pliers and a bottle of Turkey.
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Steve, yes. They are reinforced in key areas with Kevlar. They don't
have the protection of full leathers, but better than jeans.
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Troy, use the lowering blocks that PCW sells, about 20.00. It makes for
a better combination, and will help make the front more solid.
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Larry, they could have put the forks in a bind when installing the
wheel.
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Rich, have you tried a jumper wire on the switch? It has a three wire
connector. If you have a test light or a volt/ohm meter you can see if
you have power up to that point. With a ohm meter you can find out if
you have a connection with the switch tuned on. If not then there's your
problem.
Don
Larry, call me. 281-584-0395
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Troy afraid so.
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Troy, they limit the travel at full extension, keeping more of the tube
in the slider for more overlap, making for a more solid front.
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Heat it? Then your definitely doing something wrong! You don't tighten
the banjo bolt very tight.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Troy, didn't they include instructions on how to measure the length of
the spacer? What you want is 1" of preload. Race Tech uses better
material and better heat treating. The 1st 1000 miles it will seem stiff
compared to what you are use to. Find the bumpyest road and pound them.
It takes awhile
Larry, I need to know which exhaust system you have so I can send the
correct plate in the morning.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Over Racing in Japan.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Over Racing in Japan.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Welder.
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Pep Boys and O'Reilly's have a 3 gage set that includes a mech. temp.
gage. It will fit where the existing one does.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Jim, the Pirelli GTS on front and a Metzler 880 on rear.
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Harry, the 99 Hayabusa had a problem with the additives in the fuel. The
filter was so fine it was stopping up from the addtives that are in the
gas! They went to a filter that wasn't quite so fine. Running a higher
octane it has more detergents to help clean the system. Even the best
stations
You need to rechase the threads with a 1/4" pipe tap, then it will.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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Thomas, the conduit on the right side is what I was refering to. The
gage has a 1 1/2" face and fits right where the tach is. The temp gage
side needs to be opened slightly, dremel works, and then it fits. Once
mounted I sprayed the inside with the expanding foam to help isolate
them and hold in
Dave, thats too soon to use a full synthetic oil. You should wait till
you have at least 3,000 miles before doing so. Call me 281-584-0395.
Don "Old Man" Smith
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