Hi Max, Here are the ones with the leads on them that I got. http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=610-1N5298
Take care, V Energize With Light http://www.theledman.net/ > Thank you for the detailed basics on soldering. I was not even aware > that I wasn't getting a nice 2 wire thing with a nice long lead. They > sure don't cost much, I may just buy those "easy" ones and practice on > the short lead diodes. And I'll check out the specs on the 3-lead diodes too. > "M. G. Devour" <mdev...@eskimo.com> wrote: Hi Max, > I think you've set yourself at a bit of a disadvantage without > realizing it. The easier way to go would have been to buy diodes with > leads rather than surface mount. You may want to return them (if the > vendor allows that) or write them off and order some with leads. > I've never done anything with surface mount yet. If you put the > following into Google, you'll get some guides to equipment and > technique: > "surface mount" "soldering technique" > As you explore electronics you'll find a lot of hobbyist info and rub > elbows with ham radio enthusiasts a lot. They are good resources. > The most important things about soldering are clean surfaces, proper > flux, and applying heat the right way... > If you're using standard components of any kind, the leads are usually > tinned or plated with something to prevent tarnish. Wire or circuit > boards may or may not be plated. If there is any visible tarnish or > corrosion, then scrape, sand, or scrub the surfaces gently until > they're bright. Something as simple as a pencil eraser could be enough, > or a knife blace or a little fine sandpaper. The exact method you use > depends on common sense and the mechanical requirements of the > situation. Leave your belt sander in the cabinet!!! > Flux is the next step in getting clean surfaces. It is designed to > dissolve the invisible oxide layer that inevitably forms on metal > surfaces so that the soldering alloy can wet to the surfaces being > joined for a strong mechanical and chemical joint. > In metalworking you might use acid fluxes or borax or other chemicals. > KEEP ALL SUCH FLUXES AWAY FROM ELECTRONICS WORK! > The only safe kind of flux to use in electronics is rosin. Now, > electronics folks have made it easy for you. Just buy rosin core > electronics solder from any of the electronics suppliers. Since you're > working with small stuff, small diameter solder is best. Something > around .04 inches (1mm) is best. It takes very little heat to melt. > Lastly, proper application of heat requires a reasonably sized > soldering iron, an appropriately shaped and clean tip, and a firm > understanding of what it is you're trying to accomplish... > For small stuff like this you only need a 25W iron, and a small, > slender tip. You'll probably find good suggestions for equipment for > SMC use in the resources you dig up online. Take advantage of their > experience. You *won't* be using a big honking 200W soldering gun or a > metalworker's iron that's heated with a torch! > Get a holder with a sponge in the base to put your iron in when it's > not in your hand. You'll need the sponge and it'll protect the > environment (and you) from accidental burns. > If you want to go first class, get yourself a temperature controlled > soldering station with all the bells and whistles. They heat up fast > and can pour a lot of power into the job, but won't overheat the work. > Expensive, but a real joy to have if you decide to get into the hobby > long term. > Now that we've got everything at hand, let's see what we have to do to > make a good joint... > Heat your soldering iron. When it's up to temperature melt a little > solder on the tip. The flux from the solder will bubble up and smoke, > and a small blob of solder should cling to the surface. Then wipe the > tip with a quick swipe on the damp sponge. It should end up shiny. > You'll do this anytime you pick up the hot iron and it isn't still > shiny. Often another swipe on the sponge will bring it back. If not, > another small touch of solder will be needed. > Your soldering tip is now ready to apply to the joint. > You've already made sure that the surfaces to be joined are shiny. You > should also be sure that the mechanical joint between the parts is > stable and reasonably strong. Using solder as "glue" to hold a joint > together is not the best technique in general. It is susceptible to > vibration and fatigue. With PC mount components you've got leads going > through a hole to stablize things. With SMC you usually have the part > glued to the substrate to keep it in place while it's being soldered. > Joining wires, or wires to terminals, you'll wrap or twist or pinch the > joint so it's mechanically sound before you solder. > Finally, the big moment. Here's where you finally see what it is you're > trying to accomplish. > Apply your shiny, tinned soldering tip to the junction of the parts to > be joined. Poke the solder into the joint near but not on the tip to > see if the parts are hot enough to melt the solder. > Remember: You are heating the PARTS hot enough so they will melt the > solder, NOT heating the solder. > Once the parts are hot enough, you'll see the rosin in the solder melt, > spread, and bubble all over the joint followed almost immediately by > the solder melting, flowing and wicking into all the crevises of the > joint. Allow enough solder to melt into the joint to fill all the low > points with a nice fillet. Remove the solder and iron and you should > have a perfect joint, shiny and smooth. > If the parts to be joined are of different weight, say a thin wire and > a large terminal, you'll have to apply the iron more to the heavier > part than the lighter one. Sometimes a tiny blob of fresh solder on the > surface of the tip will help you to make a good thermal contact to the > metal of the joint. These sort of subtleties will be obvious once you > see and understand what's going on. > The most important point is that you're heating the joint and the joint > is what is heating the solder. Heat is applied, the flux melts, then > the solder flows in after the flux. > With a little practice you'll be able to easily make reliable joints > with the minimum amount of heat and just the right quantity of solder. > All the frustration usually stems from having the wrong equipment and > materials, or else not understanding the basic process. You shouldn't > have those problems if you do a little study and practice. > You might want to buy some kind of inexpensive electronics kit to give > you some experience with electronics components, PC board assembly and > basic soldering. That, and you can end up with a useful or entertaining > gadget when you're done. > Hope that helps. > Be well, > Mike D. >> Thanks Wayne. My previous "practices" though not numerous were >> frustratingly poor quality and they were nothing like this in >> difficulty. How about conductive epoxy solder? I went looking for some >> around town and did not find any, but I know it exists. Would that be a >> good alternative? Any drawbacks? > [Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian] > [mdev...@eskimo.com ] > [Speaking only for myself... ] > -- > The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. > Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org > To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com > Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com > The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... > List maintainer: Mike Devour > > > --------------------------------- > How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger?s low PC-to-Phone call rates. --
