Dear Keith, Can you please unsubscribe me from the list of biofuels,
Thanks Winfried Rijssenbeek _____________________________________________ Be kindly advised that the information in this message may be privileged or confidential. If you receive this email in error, please contact RR energy and delete the message and its attachments, without opening. _____________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Addison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <biofuel@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:45 AM Subject: [biofuel] Fwd: [Distillers] New Distillers FAQ > >To: 'New Distillers newsgroup' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, > >'Distillers newsgroup' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >From: Tony & Elle Ackland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 15:43:02 +1300 > >Subject: [Distillers] New Distillers FAQ > > > > > >****************************************************************** > >"NEW DISTILLERS" Frequently Asked Questions (Sept'01) > > > >Posted near the 1st of each month, to the NEW_DISTILLERS newsgroup at > >www.yahoogroups.com > > > >Please email any additions, corrections, clarifications required, etc > >regarding the FAQ to Tony Ackland ([EMAIL PROTECTED]), however please > >direct any general questions to the newsgroup itself. > > > >******************************************************************* > > > >1) Is distilling hard to do ? > >2) Is it legal ? > >3) Will it make me blind ? > >4) Whats the difference between a pot still, reflux still, and > >fractionating column ? > >5) How do I get or make a still ? > >6) How do I make a whisky / rum / vodka / gin ? > >7) Should I use sugar or grains ? > >8) Can I use fruit wine ? > >9) How do I get rid of that "off-taste" ? > >10) How do I measure the strength of it & dilute it ? > >11) How do I flavour/turn the vodka's into something else ? > >12) What web resources are there ? > >13) How do I contact the NEW DISTILLERS news group ? > >14) Can I run my car on it ? > >15) How do I convert between gallons and litres and .... > >16) What is a "Thumper" ? > >17) Can I use a reflux still to make rum or whisky ? > > > >********************************************************************** > > > >1) Is distilling hard to do ? > > > >Nope - if you can follow instructions enough to bake scones, then you can > >sucessfully distil. To distil well however, will require you to understand > >what you're doing, so read around and get a bit of information under your > >belt before you begin. > > > >2) Is it legal ? > > > >Probably not. It is only legal in New Zealand, and some European countries > >turn a blind eye to it, but elsewhere it is illegal, with punishment > >ranging from fines to imprisonment or floggings. This action against it is > >usually the result of either religous beliefs (right or wrong), but more > >generally due to the great revenue base it provides Governements through > >excise taxes. So if you are going to distil, just be aware of the potential > >legal ramifications. > > > >3) Will it make me blind ? > > > >Not if you're careful. This pervasive question is due to moonshine lore, > >which abounds with myths of blindness, but few actual documented cases. The > >concern is due to the presence of methanol (wood alcohol), an optic nerve > >poison, which can be present in small amounts when fermenting grains or > >fruits high in pectin. This methanol comes off first from the still, so it > >is easily segregated and discarded. A simple rule of thumb for this is to > >throw away the first 50 mL you collect (per 20 L mash used). Probably the > >greatest risk to your health during distilling is the risk of fire - > >collecting a flammable liquid near a heat source. So keep a fire > >extinguisher nearby. > > > >4) Whats the difference between a pot still, reflux still, and > >fractionating column ? > > > >A pot still simply collects and condenses the alcohol vapours that come off > >the boiling mash. This will result in an alcohol at about 40-60% purity, > > with plenty of flavour in it. If this distillate were put through the pot > >still again, it would increase in purity to around 70-85% purity, and lose > >a bit of its flavour. > > > >A reflux still does these multiple distillations in one single go, by > >having some packing in a column between the condensor & the pot, and > >allowing some of the vapour to condense and trickle back down through the > >packing. This "reflux" of liquid helps clean the rising vapour and increase > >the % purity. The taller the packed column, and the more reflux liquid, the > >purer the product will be. The advantage of doing this is that it will > >result in a clean vodka, with little flavour to it - ideal for mixing with > >flavours etc. > > > >A fractionating column is a pure form of the reflux still. It will condense > >all the vapour at the top of the packing, and return about 9/10 back down > >the column. The column will be quite tall - say 600-1200mm (2-4 foot), and > >packed with a material high in surface area, but which takes up little > >space (pot scrubbers are good for this). It will result in an alcohol 95%+ > >pure (the theoretical limit without using a vacuum is 96.48 %(by volume)), > >with no other tastes or impurities in it. > > > >5) How do I get or make a still ? > > > >If you're after a pot still, these are generally home made using what-ever > >you have at hand - say copper tubing and old water heaters or pressure > >cookers. Reflux stills can be made from plans on the net, or bought from > >several manufacturers. For reflux stil plans see Stillmakers "Build a World > >Class Distillation Apparatus" at http://www.Moonshine-Still.com (Free!) or > >Gert Strands : http://partyman.se/Engelsk/default.htm (US$5). A good book > >is Ian Smileys "Making Pure Corn Whisky" at > >http://www.magma.ca/~smiley/main.htm, with full design details. See the > >list of "web resources" below for links to sites selling ready-made stills. > >For fuel alcohol stills see the Mother Earth Alcohol Fuel manual at > >http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_motherearth/meToC.html, > >and the The Manual for the Home and Farm Production of Alcohol Fuel by S.W. > >Mathewson at > >http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_manual/manual_ToC.html > > > >Regarding the choice of heating for the still - if you have 240V available > >it is usually easiest to control & safer (particularly with internal > >elements). Gas can be used, but more care is needed to keep the collection > >container further away and not letting it overfill. > > > >6) How do I make a whisky / vodka / rum / gin ? > > > >Whiskey : Heat 4 kg cracked or crushed malt with 18 L of water to 63-65C, > >and hold there for 1-1.5 hours. Heat to 73-75C, then strain off and keep > >liquid, using 250 mL of hot water to rinse the grains. Cool to below 30C > >(should have an initial specific gravity of 1.050). Add hydrated yeast & > >leave to ferment (maintain at 26C) until airlock stops bubbling and final > >SG of around 1.010. Let settle for a day, then syphon carefully into a pot > >still. Discard the first 50 mL's, collect the next 2-3L of distillate or > >until you start noticing the tails coming through. > > > >Vodka : dissolve 5 kg of sugar & 60g of nutrients in 20L of water, cool to > >below 30C and add hydrated yeast. Leave to ferment at 25C until below an SG > >of around 0.990, then settle for a day. Syphon into a reflux or > >fractionating still, and collect as per usual. > > > >Rum : as per vodka, but use some brown sugar or mollasses, to give an > >initial specific gravity (SG) of around 1.06 - 1.07. Run through either a > >pot still, or a not-so-great reflux still. > > > >Gin : make a very pure vodka, then add the following essence. Simmer 35g of > >juniper berries in 350 mL of 50% vodka for ten minutes with the lid on, let > >cool overnight, then filter through coffee filters. Use 5-10 mL of this > >essence per bottle of vodka. > > > >When doing any fermenting, take a lot of care to ensure that any items used > >are clean/sterile (soaking them in a water + bleach (10 mL per litre) ), or > >else the wash can start growing other things. Use a closed fermenter with > >an airlock too, to let the CO2 out without letting wild yeasts, bugs etc > >in. For more information about fermenting, see beer or wine homebrewing > >sites. > > > >7) Should I use sugar or grains/fruit ? > > > >It depends on what sort of still you have, and what you are trying to make. > >If you have a reflux or fractionating still, only use whatever is cheapest > >(usually sugar), as the refluxing will strip out all the flavours anyhow. > >If you have a pot still, and are after a bourban or whiskey, then you need > >to go the grain route, or mollasses if after a rum. If you are trying to > >make a neutral spirit for flavouring, go for sugar. > > > >Basic guidelines for using them are .. > >SUGAR. Wine yeast can use no more than 2.5lbs of sugar/1imp gal or > >2.2lb/1U.S.gal or 1.25kg/5litres of must. This will produce 14%a.b.v. Honey > >and liquid malt extract are 80% sugar so you need 1.5kg/5l must or mash. > >Molasses is 50% sugar so you need 2.5kg/5l must or mash. Maple syrup is 32% > >sugar. Carob beans are 45% sugar. Sugar beets are 15% sugar Grain malt is > >60% sugar (starch converted to sugars) so you need 1.5kg/5l mash. Cooked > >grain contains 60% convertible starch so you need 1.5kg/5l mash > >FRUIT - Grapes contain the ideal sugar, water, acid balance. A sugar > >content of 17-23% and a water content of about 80%. 8kg of grapes produces > >5l of wine. Most common fruits (apples, plums, apricots) contain about 10% > >sugar and 85% water. Cherries and figs contain 15% sugar. A fruit mash > >could be 4kg fruit, (400g sugar content), 2l water (3l in pulp already), > >800g additional sugar. Bananas are 17-24% sugar, 75% water. Acid content > >0.3%. A banana mash could be 4kg of cooked bananas, 2l water (3l in pulp > >already),400g sugar. Add 3lemons/5l for correct pH. Dates are 70% sugar, > >20% water. Add acid to a date mash. Raisins and sultanas have a water > >content of about 15% and a sugar content of 60%, grapes have a water > >content of 75% and a sugar content of about 20%, so using 1.5-2kg/5l of > >water appears about right if we want to reconstitute them. > >ACID - 5g of citric acid (1tsp)/5l must raises acidity by 0.1%. 3g of > >calcium carbonate powder lowers acidity by 0.1%. A pH of 5 is 0.4% acidity. > >Winemakers aim for 0.6% acidity. Most common fruits are about 0.6% acid > >content. For distilling, a higher acidity in the mash helps to suppress > >bacteria. A high tannin content doesn't matter as we are not making wine. > >Meaurements are logarithmic, so a pH of 4 is 10 times more acidic than a pH > >of 5. > >YEAST - Brewers (& possibly baker's yeast) can tolerate only 8% alcohol. A > >bottom fermenting lager yeast ferments out all the sugars better than a top > >fermenting ale yeast. A good wine yeast (Champagne, in the right > >conditions, can tolerate 15%a.b.v. (up to 18%a.b.v. in optimal conditions - > >no need to use expensive turbos). Wild yeasts vary, but some are very low - > >this is a risky path. Whisky distillers often use a combination of yeasts - > >initially a brewer's yeast because they believe it effects the flavor. > > > >8) Can I use fruit wine ? > > > >Sure, if you have it available. Again, using a pot still will result in a > >brandy/grappa/schnapps, whereas a reflux still will just strip it down to > >neutral spirit. > > > >9) How do I get rid of that "off-taste" ? > > > >That "rough moonshine edge" or "off-taste / wet cardboard smell" is due to > >impurities such as the higher order alcohols, known as cogeners or fusel > >oils. These will be present more when using a pot still, less if using a > >reflux still, and just about absent if using a fractionating column. So one > >way is to use a taller packed column and increase the amount of reflux > >occuring. They can also indicate that you've tried to collect too much of > >the alcohol, and have run into the "tails"; so finish collecting a little > >bit earlier next time. Soaking tainted alcohol with activated carbon for a > >week (or even months) will help remove some of this flavour - this is known > >as "polishing" the spirit. I'm also suspecting that you need a little bit > >of copper somewhere in the still where it can come in contact with the > >vapour. The copper helps catalyse some of the sulphur, esters & organic > >acids, reducing their odour & taste. > > > >10) How do I measure the strength of it & dilute it ? > > > >You need a hydrometer. This is a wee float, with a scale inside it. The > >more alcohol that is present, the lighter the density of the liquid, so the > >hydrometer sinks a bit lower. You then just read off the scale how much > >alcohol is present. You need a seperate hydrometer for measuring the > >density of the mash, as this is generally > 1.0, whereas the spirit is < > >1.0, and they can't accurately do both ends of the scale. > > > >11) How do I flavour/turn the vodka's into something else ? > > > >There are now many commercial flavourings available, which turn vodka or > >neutral alcohol into pretty decent gin or whiskey, or all manor of > >liqueurs. See the commercial sites, like Des Zines > >http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~topkiwi or Ray Toms http://moonshine.co.nz/ > >for details. Or you can soak it with oak chips and make whiskey, or soak > >fruits in it to make your own liqueurs. > > > >12) What web resources are there ? > > > >For more details, see : > >Tony Ackland's http://homedistiller.org > >Aaron Smiths's http://www.go.to/distillation > >Steve Spence's http://www.webconx.com/ethanol.htm > >StillMaker's http://www.Moonshine-Still.com > >Biofuels Library http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library.html > > > >13) How do I contact the NEW DISTILLERS news group ? > > > >Both the NEW DISTILLERS and the DISTILLERS news groups are available via > >YahooGroups, at http://www.yahoogroups.com . NEW DISTILLERS is, as the name > >suggests, intended for those of you new to distilling and after simple, > >straight-forward discussions, whereas the DISTILLERS group is a bit more > >advanced, throwing in bits of design philosophy, theory, and alternative > >ways of achieving the results. Both tend to overlap to some extent. > > > >14) Can I run my car on it ? > > > >You can run your car on alcohol over about 80% purity. Because any water > >present will seperate out in the presence of the gasoline (and become a > >problem), you either need to exclusively use the alcohol, or dry it right > >out (eg 99%+ purity) if using it to mix with gasoline. See Steve Spences > >site for more details, the Mother Earth Alcohol Fuel manual, or the The > >Manual for the Home and Farm Production of Alcohol Fuel. In addition, in > >the USA, you can get a "small fuel producer" permit, which allows small > >scale distilling for "motor fuel" purposes. A nice advantage is that they > >don't require denaturing for "fuel" used on the premises. The regulations > >are posted at http://www.webconx.com/ethanolusaregs.htm > > > >15) How do I convert between gallons and litres and .... > > > >To convert between SI & Imperial units, multiply the first unit by the > >conversion factor to get the second. Divide back to do it in reverse .eg 1L > >= 0.264 US gal, so 20 L = 20 x 0.264 = 5.28 US gal, and 20 US gal / 0.264 = > >75.76 L > > > >1 L = 0.264 US gal = 0.221 UK gal > >1 L = 1.057 US qt = 0.880 UK qt > >1 kg = 2.204 lbm = 32.15 oz (troy) = 35.27 oz (av) > >deg F = ((9/5) x deg C )+ 32 > >1m = 1000 mm = 39.37 inch = 3.28 ft = 1.09 yd > > > >16) What is a "Thumper" ? > > > >A "thumper" is an extra chamber sometimes fitted to a pot still. It can be > >as simple as a glass jar with two holes in the lid. The off-take from the > >still is fed into it, with the pipe running almost all the way to the > >bottom of the jar; the jar is half filled with liquid (water or mash or > >tails) so that the vapour from the still will bubble up through it; then > >the vapour coming off it is collected & cooled as per normal. It acts as a > >second distilling chamber using just the heat from the vapour, and lifts > >the purity from 50-60% to 70-80%, hence improving what might otherwise be a > >very mediocre design. > > > >17) Can I use a Reflux Still to make Rum or Whisky ? > > > >Yes you can. To do so, you need to carefully monitor the various > >transitions between the foreshots, heads, middle run, and tails, and time > >the collection of the middle run precisely. The reflux still allows you to > >more precisely judge the changes between the various stages, and hence > >target them accurately. A typical rum or whisky would be obtained by > >discarding the foreshots, then collecting the heads, middle run, and then > >begin the tails, until the purity has dropped to around 58-60% (81.4C). By > >altering when to start collecting, and how late to time the final "cut", > >various flavour profiles will result. > >------------------------------------------------------------------------ > >-------- > > > >http://homedistiller.org This page last modified 10/05/2001 17:21:16 > > email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > Biofuel at Journey to Forever: > http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html > Please do NOT send "unsubscribe" messages to the list address. > To unsubscribe, send an email to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~--> Tiny Wireless Camera under $80! 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