--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Keith Addison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> This is an initial FAQ. It'll grow fast. I'll post significant 
> additions on the list and keep updated versions on the Journey to 
> Forever website:
> http://jtforever.org/ethanol_faq.html
> 
> and in the Files section at the list website:
> http://www.onelist.com/group/biofuel/
> 
> 
> Fuel ethanol FAQ Version 1.0
> 
> Q. Where can I get plans for an ethanol still?
> 
> A. Blueprints and instructions are available for an ethanol still 
> that will make 5 gallons or more an hour of 180-proof ethanol on 
the 
> first run, every run, and weighs only 28 lb.
> 
> This is an advanced fourth-generation design. It is not a toy for 
> making drinking alcohol: this is a serious tool for making your own 
> fuel.
> 
> The blueprints are available from the designer, Robert Warren, 
former 
> founding director of the California Alcohol Fuel Producers 
> Association, a non-profit organization dedicated to promoting 
> alternatives to using petroleum fuels Association.
> 
> Robert has constructed 131 working stills. His research on ethanol 
> spans 20 years, and he is a founding member of this mailing list. 
He 
> can be reached by email at:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> This FAQ is compiled from information supplied by Robert. See the 
> Journey to Forever Website for more information:
> 
> http://jtforever.org/ethanol_robert1.html
> 
> 
> Q. Can I make this still myself?
> 
> A. Yes - if you are handy with copper plumbing tools and 
techniques. 
> You'll find the blueprints to be quite thorough in helping you 
> through all parts of assembly. The instructions are very precise 
and 
> well drawn to show you the whole assembly process. But it does take 
> an experienced hand to solder the pipes properly.
> 
> The plans contain the complete list of materials, detailed drawings 
> of the construction procedures, and some alternative methods of 
> heating and running the still. It includes several pages describing 
> how to adjust and run the still, with variations for different 
> feedstocks and fuel sources.
> 
> 
> Q. How much do the blueprints cost?
> 
> A. US$25 plus $3 for airmail postage. Allow up to four weeks for 
> delivery because the blueprints have to be batch-printed - printing 
> is the main cost and batch-printing keeps the price down.
> 
> 
> Q. How much will the still cost to build?
> 
> A. It will cost you about $400 to $500 to build the still, or less 
if 
> you're good at scavenging parts and components, such as hoses, etc. 
> You can scavenge a lot of the other materials on the list, but if 
you 
> want the still to work right, you need to build it exactly as shown 
> on the blueprints. This is a fourth-generation design, and it is 
very 
> efficient.
> 
> You'll need 5 feet of 3-inch-diameter copper pipe, with various 
> copper fittings as listed in the plans, costing around $125.
> 
> The key piece of technology is the automatic temperature 
> sensor/controller valve, which precisely regulates the optimum 
> temperature for separation of condensed alcohol from the water 
> vapors. This ensures consistent production of 180 proof ethanol. 
The 
> valve costs up to $225. We're searching for a good and hopefully 
> cheaper source for these.
> 
> An old gas water heater can be cannibalized for the gas burner, if 
> you want to use propane or natural gas to heat your boiler to run 
the 
> beer through the still. Or you can make a wood burner out of some 
> concrete blocks and an empty 55-gallon oil drum turned on its side. 
> Use scrap wood for fuel.
> 
> 
> Q. How long will it take to build the still?
> 
> A. I used to teach a still-building class over a two-day weekend, 
> which included a full day of building and completing a still. It 
may 
> take you a month or two just to get your components together, and 
> then you can put it together in one good weekend.
> 
> Invite a couple of handy friends over to help. The following 
weekend 
> you'll want to have a still firing event with those same friends! 
> Nothing makes you feel more self-reliant than running a car, 
> motorcycle, or even a lawn mower on fuel you've made yourself!
> 
> 
> Q. What's the production rate?
> 
> A. If you have ten gallons of beer at a 5% alcohol content (which 
is 
> about what you get working with barley or wheat) you end up with a 
> little over 0.5 gallons of high proof (0.05 x 10 gal / 0.9 = 0.55 
gal 
> of 180 proof).
> 
> You can see that to be efficient you will want to start with a 
> minimum of 100 gallons, hopefully at a 10% sugar concentration, to 
> get 10 gallons of fuel.
> 
> If you run it at full capacity (it is designed to handle a 500-
gallon 
> boiler), you can produce a little over 7 gallons per hour of 180 
> proof fuel. You can run two stills in parallel if you want 14 
gallons 
> per hour.
> 
> 
> Q. How much does it cost to produce 1 gallon of ethanol?
> 
> A. If you do this on a large enough scale, it will cost about $1.10 
> to $1.20/gal to make the alcohol.
> 
> You will also have animal feed by-products which you can sell to 
> reduce the total cost to about $0.85/gal.
> 
> 
> Q. What do I do once I have a still set up?
> 
> A. First you need a good source of feedstock. By feedstock, I mean 
a 
> good source of sugar or starch (carbohydrates) which can be 
fermented 
> in the same process with which you make beer or wine.
> 
> You aren't going to drink it, so it can be somewhat contaminated: 
for 
> example, we once made a batch of ethanol from a weeks' garbage from 
a 
> prison which had a lot of lumpy mashed potatoes and stale bread, 
and 
> had to fight off the flies while we mixed it with water and pumped 
it 
> into a fermentation tank.
> 
> Another time we used five-year-old dehydrated prunes which I soaked 
> for a week to get them soft enough to grind with a baseball bat.
> 
> Realistically, it's best to do all this on a farm where you have 
> access to hammermills, large tanks, and various means of handling 
> large amounts of feedstock (and the resultant waste).
> 
> Feedstocks: corn (stocks, cobs, and all) is good, as are sugar 
beets, 
> jerusalem artichokes, rotten apples, grape skins from a winery, and 
> much more.
> 
> As for fermentation, this is basically the same process as for 
making 
> beer or wine, except that you don't have to worry about the taste, 
> since you aren't going to drink this stuff.
> 
> Lots more information to come on feedstocks and fermentation!
> 
> 
> Q. Is it easy to learn how to make ethanol?
> 
> A. It's not rocket science, but there is quite a lot to learn. 
> Running a still does require some knowledge of the whole process. 
You 
> really need to read a couple books on the subject, which may or may 
> not be out of print. Check your local libraries (including 
University 
> Libraries). There are good resources at the Journey to Forever 
> website:
> 
> http://jtforever.org/ethanol_link.html
> 
> We'll be adding more and more resources on all aspects of ethanol 
> production - not just links, but full-text information. We'll 
advise 
> list members as new material is made available. And we'll keep 
adding 
> to this FAQ. Before too long you'll be able to find everything you 
> need to know right here.
> 
> 
> Q. How corrosive is ethanol to fuel system parts and how have you 
> addressed this problem?
> 
> A. Ethanol is somewhat corrosive to certain rubber and cork 
materials 
> found in old-time carburetors. Neoprene is better.
> 
> Ethanol will also eat the coating on most gas tanks, and a separate 
> plastic cross-link polyethylene tank is recommended.
> 
> However, in practice, we put alcohol in a standard gas tank and 
just 
> clean the fuel filter occasionally.
> 
> 
> Q. How do you combat the problem of hard starting on cold days with 
> carburated engines?
> 
> A. Our most common method is to salvage an old windshield washer 
pump 
> from a junk yard and rig it up so you can push a button on cold 
> mornings to squirt a small shot of gasoline into the carburetor.
> 
> This is not easy to do with fuel injection. NREL (the US Dept of 
> Energy's National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL), Ford and GM 
all 
> have some very technically advanced ways of dealing with this, 
though.
> 
> 
> Q. What is the octane rating of 180 proof ethanol?
> 
> A. 180 proof ethanol is equivalent to 105 octane. You would need to 
> modify your engine to run a fuel this powerful. This involves 
> carburation (or fuel injection) and timing.
> 
> The main modification required to run a carburated engine on 
ethanol 
> is drilling out the jets or installing larger jets.
> 
> It is better to buy replacement jets and drill those out so you 
still 
> have the originals if you ever want to revert to gasoline. For some 
> carburetors used in racing, you can buy the next size larger jet.
> 
> You want to drill the jet out only 15% more by total diameter, no 
> more. In fact, start at only 8% and try that first. Every engine is 
> different according to its compression ratio.
> 
> In several vehicles I've owned, I never changed the jets at all: I 
> just pulled out the choke a little bit.
> 
> Don't let any of this stop you - we need to get people out there 
> making their own fuel and showing the oil giants that we aren't 
> dependent on their whims.
> 
> Much more to come on engine modifications!
> 
> 
> Q. Does ethanol have a shelf life and will it lose its octane level 
> like gasoline does?
> 
> A. If it is sealed it will last for years and years. If opened to 
the 
> atmosphere, it will suck moisture out of the air and get a little 
bit 
> diluted.
> 
> 
> Q. Does ethanol go rotten in time like gasoline and produce varnish?
> 
> A. No. Alcohol is what preserves your wine and gets better as the 
> years go by. But you need to start with triple distilled alcohol as 
> made in the still I designed so that the fusil oils and other 
> impurities are removed.
> 
> 
> Q. How difficult/expensive is the US licensing process for making 
alcohol?
> 
> A. Getting a licence from the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and 
> Firearms (BATF) is not difficult, and only takes about a month. The 
> address can be found at:
> http://www.atf.treas.gov/alcohol/info/alctoblab.htm
> 
> They don't have a very good web site, though. They are pretty much 
> old school, and you may need to write or call them. Ask for 
> information about getting an Experimental Fuel Distillation Permit. 
I 
> think it is only $10 or $15.
> 
> 
> Q. Is there a limit to how much ethanol can be produced for 
individual use?
> 
> A. You can make as much as you like, the only requirement is that 
you 
> report how much you make and that you denature it (make it 
poisonous 
> to drink). Isn't that a cool way of making sure people don't drink 
> it? They must think it is better to kill folks than to let a few 
> people get off without paying the tax. This law was established 
back 
> in the days of prohibition.
> 
> 
> Q. Do you have any similar information on butanol?
> 
> A. Butanol is a pretty exotic fuel, not something you want to make 
in 
> your backyard, as the smell is truly horrible - not so much the 
fuel 
> itself, but the cellulose-eating bacteria, like very smelly socks 
> times 1,000!
> 
> Butanol is a very interesting fuel, though, as it can be made from 
> rice straw which is normally just burned off, and you don't have to 
> modify your engine as it is completely compatible with gasoline, as 
> well as miscible (it will mix with) with gasoline.
> 
> Better to stick with building a still and making ethanol. It is 
clean 
> and there is no pollution, and the neighbors won't complain about 
the 
> smell.
> 
> Check the Files section at the list website for an initial 
> bibliography on butanol:
> http://www.onelist.com/group/biofuel/
> 
> 
> Q. The part of the process that concerns me is the mashing and 
> fermentation. Is there any way to simplify or automate these stages?
> 
> The California Department of Agriculture ran a still-building 
> competion a few years back and awarded a prize to Floyd S. 
> Butterfield, a farmer who automated pretty much the whole process. 
He 
> used sludge pumps to circulate the mash during the fermentation and 
> also the cooking processes, which keeps the solids from stacking up 
> at the bottom of the cooker and burning during the process of 
boiling 
> (cooking) the mash to create the steam vapors you are feeding into 
> the still.
> 
> We'll upload a detailed report on the design and performance of Mr 
> Butterfield's process to the Files section of the list website 
within 
> a couple of days (25-3-00).
> http://www.onelist.com/group/biofuel/
> 
> There are lots of books about commercial alcohol production, but 
you 
> may have to go to an agricultural university library to find them. 
> The enology (wine making) department at Univ. Calif. Davis is a 
world 
> leader in the field and has extensive resources on ethanol 
> production, as does the California Department of Agriculture.


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