The Agribusiness Examiner

January 4, 2004, Issue #315
Monitoring Corporate Agribusiness
 From a Public Interest Perspective

EDITOR\PUBLISHER; A.V. Krebs
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Commentary:
How Now Mad Cow !!!

Legend has it that on October 8,1871 Catherine O'Leary's cow kicked 
over a kerosene lantern and what followed was the Great Chicago Fire 
of that year. Likewise, another firestorm involving a cow was 
recently unleashed immediately prior to the recent Christmas holiday 
when a Holstein belonging to veterinarian Bill Wavrin's Sunny Dene 
Ranch's 4000-head herd in Mabton, Washington was found to have been 
suffering from bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) or mad cow 
disease.

Fueled by a suddenly aroused media immediate speculation became 
centered around whether the nation's meat supply had been 
compromised, from where the cow had originated --- soon to be 
discovered that it had been shipped in from Alberta, Canada --- and 
what feed it had been fed in its lifetime.

An excellent compendium of the news relative to what South Dakota 
state veterinarian Sam Holland recently referred to at the ninth 
annual Midwest Farm Policy Forum as "the cow that stole Christmas," 
can be found at:
http://www.tricityherald.com/tch/madcow/

Nearly lost, however, in the media aftermath of this latest mad cow 
conflagration were three important points.

First, it was quite a damning indictment of globalization. You have 
one cow on one farm tucked away on a farm in Washington State that is 
discovered to have BSE and suddenly your have complete chaos in the 
world's highly concentrated beef industry.

Second, if dairy farmers were getting a fair price for what they 
produce they probably wouldn't feel it necessary to squeeze every 
last penny out of their herd, such as sending "downers" off to the 
marketplace. But when they have so much invested in one cow and are 
not getting what they deserve in terms of price for what they produce 
from that cow they have little choice.

Dairy farmers in Washington State received about $1 to $1.10 per 
gallon  (near, if not, the lowest in the nation)., while it is 
estimated that it costs about $1.40 to produce a gallon of milk, 
despite only getting paid roughly the one dollar government-mandated 
minimum price for that gallon. It is also estimated that dairy 
farmers in the state continue to carry about $1,500 to $2,000 of debt 
per cow.

Yet in a recent study by Washington PIRG it was shown that consumers 
in the Seattle-Tacoma metropolitan area paid an average price of 
$3.52 per gallon for whole milk in July, 2003 compared to $2.78 
nationally, which is the highest in the nation.

In the meantime, during the past 20 years the state has seen its 
number of dairy farms decrease from 1600 to 600. The August, 2003 
Washington PIRG report shows that between January, 2002 and April, 
2003 alone the number fell from 628 to 603.

Contributing to this squeeze play is the murky role that the milk 
processors play in establishing milk prices. As Deborah Robinson, who 
researched and wrote the WashPIRG report, noted that while the farm 
price set by the government is public information and retail prices 
can be observed by any shopper, the prices that processors charge to 
stores need not be publicly revealed.

We also see in Washington State some grocery chains, notably Safeway, 
have their own milk-processing plants, presumably giving them greater 
control over costs and retail prices. But as the leading chains in 
the food retailing business grow ever larger the struggling dairy 
farmers are being left to sell to an ever diminishing market.

So the question for dairy producers as with most family farm 
operations really comes down (once again!!!) to a fair price for what 
they produce. After chairing a series of eight nationwide farm policy 
forums on agriculture in 1984 former Texas Agricultural Commissioner 
and chairman of the Democratic National Committee's Agricultural 
Council Jim Hightower concluded in his final report:

"When all was said and done, it came down to one word: Price. Other 
important issues were discussed at the forums sponsored by the DNCAC 
during the past six months, but the overwhelming consensus among 
participating farmers was that the other concerns --- overproduction, 
soil and water conservation, high interest rates, lack of credit, 
entry by young farmers, the depressed farm service industry, and the 
farm program's high cost, to name a few --- could and would be solved 
when farmers received a fair price for their products."

Third. the USDA and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 
conjunction with the National Cattleman's Beef Association (NCBA) 
have been careless, if not negligent, in both ignoring the threat of 
BSE and in establishing a process whereby it can be readily detected 
before it moves into the food supply.

For example, it was in January, 2002 that the General Accounting 
Office --- Congress' investigative arm --- slammed the FDA for 
failing to adequately enforce feed ban regulations, a key piece of 
the nation's protection against the disease.

On the day after the Washington mad cow news became public , the FDA 
tried to reassure the public by saying it has "vigorously enforced" a 
1997 law that bans the use of meat and bone meal from dead ruminants 
(cows, sheep and goats) in feed for live ruminants. The agency said 
more than 99% of feed operators are now complying with the law.

The GAO, however, said the agency had failed to issue warning letters 
to violators and
inspection records were incomplete, inconsistent, inaccurate and 
untimely. The FDA's records, investigators said, were "so severely 
flawed" that they shouldn't be used to assess compliance. "FDA has 
not placed a priority on oversight of the feed ban," the report 
concluded.

Likewise, Amy Merrick reported in the Wall Street Journal that when 
the first news of the Sunny Dene cow was heard by the National 
Cattlemen's Beef Association it set in motion "the most rehearsed 
plan in the history" of the NCBA.

Merrick quotes Steven Grover, the National Restaurant Association 
vice president of health and safety regulatory affairs, as pointing 
out "the discovery of the Washington state cow also triggered 
long-rehearsed plans at other organizations like the U.S. Department 
of Agriculture and McDonald's Corp. and the Association which has 
been working since 1990 to prepare for this day."

Speaking to 144 reporters and other participants following the USDA's 
initial briefing , Terry Stokes, the NCBA's chief executive, and his 
colleagues "delivered messages they had written long ago: The U.S. 
beef supply is the safest in the world. Consumers shouldn't be afraid 
to eat meat because the infected material from the cow wouldn't enter 
the food supply. The discovery of this case actually shows that the 
government surveillance system works."

Yet, at the same time the San Francisco Chronicle's Sabin Russell and 
Nanette Asimov were reporting that "meat from a Washington state 
slaughterhouse that contained cuts  from a lone cow that tested 
positive for mad cow disease was sold in as many as nine California 
counties, but current rules forbid the state or counties from telling 
consumers exactly where recalled meat was sold." All this was taking 
place while the USDA was insisting that the recall was precautionary 
and that the meat posed no health risk.

According to USDA spokesman Matthew Baun, it's up to consumers to 
check with their grocers, butchers or restaurants to find out if any 
of the recalled meat may have landed on their tables. "We are 
prohibited from releasing information that companies would consider 
proprietary,'' he explained. "If you are concerned whether you may 
have purchased the product, you can call your retail store. They 
would know . . .  The only way to know for sure is to contact stores."

Meanwhile, it is ironic that this whole incident is currently taking 
place against the backdrop of the USDA and the meat industry's 
concerted effort to eliminate funding designed to implement the 
provisions of the Country of Origin Labeling (COOL) legislation which 
was passed by the Congress --- legislation specially designed to
bring a higher level of safety to the increasing amount of meat that 
is being imported into the U.S.

As St. Francis, Kansas cattleman Mike Callicrate told the Village 
Voice's James Ridgeway, "Adequate inspection on the border has been 
lacking for years especially on the topic of the USDA's Food Safety 
and Inspection Service."

In that regard the story of USDA's Bill Lehman remains instructive.

Lehman, was a retired USDA meat inspector and from 1987 to 1996 he 
worked as a border meat inspector in the Sweetgrass, Montana station, 
the busiest port of entry for beef from Canada. Tireless in his 
efforts for more strict meat inspection regulation Lehman, who 
believed it was his duty to do whatever he could to ensure the safety 
of food being imported for American consumers, was outspoken in 
criticizing this country's inspection standards.

Branded as a troublemaker, a loose cannon and a protectionist by many 
of his own USDA colleagues, others saw him as a hero, patriot and 
whistle blower; he much preferred to be thought of as a "concerned 
citizen."

By his own estimate he had himself rejected "up to 2.3 million pounds 
of contaminated or mislabeled imports annually. The reasons for 
rejection included pus-filled abscesses, sticky layers of bacteria 
leaving a stench, obvious fecal contamination, stains, metal 
shavings, blood, bruises, hair, hide, chemical residues, salmonella, 
added substances and advance disease symptoms."

Lehman was particularly highly critical of inspection procedures 
resulting from the U.S.-Canada Free Trade Agreement which was 
approved in 1989. "Suddenly, Canadian meat imports became almost 
exempt from inspections," he recalled.

Shortly after the children's deaths and sickness from e-coli tainted 
hamburger in the Pacific Northwest Lehman testified before a 
Congressional Committee and detailed a typical inspection under the 
infamous "rear-door rule."

"I merely walk to the back of the truck. That's all I'm allowed to 
do. Whether there's boxed meat or carcasses in the truck, I can't 
touch the boxes. I can't open the boxes. I can't use a flashlight. I 
can't walk into the truck. I can only look at what is visible in the 
back of the trailer."

He also recounted during an interview while he as on the job that two 
trucks had just passed through the Sweetgrass facility and that he 
had inspected them both within 45 seconds.

"I've just inspected over 80,000 pounds of meat (boxed beef rounds 
and boxed boneless beef briskets) on two trucks. I wasn't running or 
hurrying either. One was bound for Sante Fe Springs, California, the 
other for San Jose, California. I just stamped on their paperwork 
`USDA Inspected and Passed' in 45 seconds."

Because of his outspokenness Lehman was ordered to transfer to 
another location, retire or be terminated from his job as a meat 
inspector. He subsequently retired after 30 years of service in the 
USDA, in early 1997,   stating he was "just tired of the whole 
thing." Bill Lehman, 60, died of a severe heart condition March 2, 
1998 at a Shelby, Montana care center.
 

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