Actually, Glenn, much of the transpiration that pops off your adobe's outer surface comes from the opposite direction...from the inside of the adobe to the outside. The adobe needs to be able to breath on both the inside and the outside because moisture from the inside of the building passes through the adobe to the outside. If this moisture hits a barrier like an impermeable paint or sealant, it collects behind the film of paint carrying solubles (salts etc.) from the adobe itself and compromises the outer surface of the adobe. Then, with changes of temperature and associated expansion and contraction, this compromised area can pop off.
Here in St. Louis, Missouri, we have many houses that are built on rubble foundations...literally stacks of limestone piled up and then, on the interior, tuckpointed and parged. If homeowners make the mistake of using a rubberized paint on these rubble foundations, they find that the limestone starts popping off on the inside because the moisture is passing through from the outside and having the same effect even though the interior is warmer than the exterior. No matter where you're located, you're more than welcome to join the Rehabbers Club list at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rehabbersclub. We're a St. Louis organization dedicated to rehabbing/restoring buildings in our city, but we have many members who are from other areas and countries and a wealth of knowledge to share. You may find some ideas for roof repair/replacement there. Maud St. Louis, Missouri >Hakan, > >Thanks for your comment. Yes, I am sure you are right. The problem in the >past has been the wrong choice of paint, not allowing moisture to penetrate >through the paint. Most of the damage happened before I got the house, and I >need to make sure the next paint chosen will allow moisture penetration. > >Glenn > > >I take the adobe surface problem first, are you sure that you used suitable >paint for it. To me it sounds like the paint seals up at the surface and >this would then be an expected problem. The choice of paint is very >critical and it must allow the humidity to pass through, any collection of >water on the back side of the paint will give you the problems you >describe. Many historical buildings have been destroyed by modern paints >and other techniques. I had a 350 year old farmhouse in Sweden and >restoring that meant a lot of study in old building techniques and >understanding of how and why they were done that way. To understand old >traditional buildings is not always easy, but most of the techniques have a >rational explanation. I saw a lot of failed renovations and almost all of >them was because of sealing the construction too much, but not totally, >with modern materials and especially unsuitable paint. > >Hakan > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >Biofuel at Journey to Forever: >http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html > >Biofuels list archives: >http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel > >Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. >To unsubscribe, send an email to: >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Yahoo! Groups Links > >To visit your group on the web, go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/ > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
