On 9/4/05, *robert luis rabello* <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
 
If you do this, however, you'll want

    to install grommets in the floor joists.  We didn't, so whenever the
    boiler fires up, the plastic pipes tap against the joists.  It sounds
    like a myriad of golf balls bouncing on the floor--not altogether
    unpleasant, but certainly something unnecessary.


Is there a specific type of material or will any old grommet do?

    Part of that greater efficiency,
    however, may stem from the fact that I sealed every join between floor
    and wall and caulked around every window when we built the house.


I'm working on that sort of stuff but, it's much slower in the retro-fit.

    You can set your boiler to heat an insulated storage tank and
    put in an extra coil for solar input.  If the thermostat on the
    storage tank is set for a given temperature, your boiler will only
    activate when the solar thermal energy has been used first.


This is something that I've been trying to figure out for a while.  I 
was way over
complicating the design in my head.  As long as I build or modify the 
storage
tank myself and change my thermostat, it's not nearly as complicated as I
initially thought.

    In theory, you could tap heat from the tank for domestic hot water as
    well, so a single system could serve home heating and water heating. 


That was definitely a design consideration that I skipped in my post.
I was planning on implementing that as addition 2 of phase 2.

    Most good boilers are more efficient than water heater tanks,
    engendering another savings (albeit a small one) down the road.

            Disadvantages include:

            1.  The potential for structural damage with a leak.  A properly
    designed system SHOULDN'T leak, but then, I live in earthquake
                    country and we have to take that risk seriously.


This isn't  TOO much of a concern for us as the plumbing will be in the
basement.  Part of our basement is finished but, a good disaster would
be just the reason to do all the proper insulating which my better half
is none too enthusiastic about.

            2.  Greater initial expense for radiant heat.


How so?  Of course, I'm not dealing with initial expenses here anyway.


            4.  Wood fired boilers pollute more than wood fired forced air
    systems because water is much more efficient at removing heat
                    energy from the fire box.  This can also result in
    creosote build up.


 >From a related yet different perspective, do I introduce any trouble 
by burning
my wood burning fireplace insert?  In seems to do a very good job and has a
fan.  Do you reverse ceiling fans during the winter?  I'll be performing 
on-site
tests this winter in order to prove either my wife or myself correct.

    Start with insulation and draft proofing.  Get good windows and use
    window quilts wherever possible.  Once you've taken care of these
    easily implemented, affordable solutions, the rest will cost less
    money and involve less work.


As I mentioned before,  I'm working toward that end.  It certainly takes 
a while
when you're taking over a home.

Thanks much for your comments,
Take care,
Ken

***Editor's Note***  I am my own editor and often drink on the job.

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