<http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/31/opinion/31niman.html?_r=1&emc=eta1&pagewanted=all>

OP-ED CONTRIBUTOR

The Carnivore's Dilemma

By NICOLETTE HAHN NIMAN

Published: October 30, 2009

Bolinas, Calif.

IS eating a hamburger the global warming equivalent of driving a 
Hummer? This week an article in The Times of London carried a 
headline that blared: "Give Up Meat to Save the Planet." 
<http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/environment/article6891362.ece> 
Former Vice President Al Gore, who has made climate change his 
signature issue, has even been assailed for omnivorous eating by 
animal rights activists.

It's true that food production is an important contributor to climate 
change. And the claim that meat (especially beef) is closely linked 
to global warming has received some credible backing, including by 
the United Nations and University of Chicago. Both institutions have 
issued reports that have been widely summarized as condemning 
meat-eating.

But that's an overly simplistic conclusion to draw from the research. 
To a rancher like me, who raises cattle, goats and turkeys the 
traditional way (on grass), the studies show only that the prevailing 
methods of producing meat - that is, crowding animals together in 
factory farms, storing their waste in giant lagoons and cutting down 
forests to grow crops to feed them - cause substantial greenhouse 
gases. It could be, in fact, that a conscientious meat eater may have 
a more environmentally friendly diet than your average vegetarian.

So what is the real story of meat's connection to global warming? 
Answering the question requires examining the individual greenhouse 
gases involved: carbon dioxide, methane and nitrous oxides.

Carbon dioxide makes up the majority of agriculture-related 
greenhouse emissions. In American farming, most carbon dioxide 
emissions come from fuel burned to operate vehicles and equipment. 
World agricultural carbon emissions, on the other hand, result 
primarily from the clearing of woods for crop growing and livestock 
grazing. During the 1990s, tropical deforestation in Brazil, India, 
Indonesia, Sudan and other developing countries caused 15 percent to 
35 percent of annual global fossil fuel emissions.

Much Brazilian deforestation is connected to soybean cultivation. As 
much as 70 percent of areas newly cleared for agriculture in Mato 
Grosso State in Brazil is being used to grow soybeans. Over half of 
Brazil's soy harvest is controlled by a handful of international 
agribusiness companies, which ship it all over the world for animal 
feed and food products, causing emissions in the process.

Meat and dairy eaters need not be part of this. Many smaller, 
traditional farms and ranches in the United States have scant 
connection to carbon dioxide emissions because they keep their 
animals outdoors on pasture and make little use of machinery. 
Moreover, those farmers generally use less soy than industrial 
operations do, and those who do often grow their own, so there are no 
emissions from long-distance transport and zero chance their farms 
contributed to deforestation in the developing world.

In contrast to traditional farms, industrial livestock and poultry 
facilities keep animals in buildings with mechanized systems for 
feeding, lighting, sewage flushing, ventilation, heating and cooling, 
all of which generate emissions. These factory farms are also soy 
guzzlers and acquire much of their feed overseas. You can reduce your 
contribution to carbon dioxide emissions by avoiding industrially 
produced meat and dairy products.

Unfortunately for vegetarians who rely on it for protein, avoiding 
soy from deforested croplands may be more difficult: as the Organic 
Consumers Association notes, Brazilian soy is common (and unlabeled) 
in tofu and soymilk sold in American supermarkets.

Methane is agriculture's second-largest greenhouse gas. Wetland rice 
fields alone account for as much 29 percent of the world's 
human-generated methane. In animal farming, much of the methane comes 
from lagoons of liquefied manure at industrial facilities, which are 
as nauseating as they sound.

This isn't a problem at traditional farms. "Before the 1970s, methane 
emissions from manure were minimal because the majority of livestock 
farms in the U.S. were small operations where animals deposited 
manure in pastures and corrals," the Environmental Protection Agency 
says. The E.P.A. found that with the rapid rise of factory farms, 
liquefied manure systems became the norm and methane emissions 
skyrocketed. You can reduce your methane emissions by seeking out 
meat from animals raised outdoors on traditional farms.

CRITICS of meat-eating often point out that cattle are prime culprits 
in methane production. Fortunately, the cause of these methane 
emissions is understood, and their production can be reduced.

Much of the problem arises when livestock eat poor quality forages, 
throwing their digestive systems out of balance. Livestock nutrition 
experts have demonstrated that by making minor improvements in animal 
diets (like providing nutrient-laden salt licks) they can cut enteric 
methane by half. Other practices, like adding certain proteins to 
ruminant diets, can reduce methane production per unit of milk or 
meat by a factor of six, according to research 
<http://www.ciesin.columbia.edu/docs/004-180/004-180.html> at 
Australia's University of New England. Enteric methane emissions can 
also be substantially reduced when cattle are regularly rotated onto 
fresh pastures, researchers at University of Louisiana have confirmed 
<http://jeq.scijournals.org/cgi/content/abstract/32/1/269>.

Finally, livestock farming plays a role in nitrous oxide emissions, 
which make up around 5 percent of this country's total greenhouse 
gases. More than three-quarters of farming's nitrous oxide emissions 
result from manmade fertilizers. Thus, you can reduce nitrous oxide 
emissions by buying meat and dairy products from animals that were 
not fed fertilized crops - in other words, from animals raised on 
grass or raised organically.

In contrast to factory farming, well-managed, non-industrialized 
animal farming minimizes greenhouse gases and can even benefit the 
environment. For example, properly timed cattle grazing can increase 
vegetation by as much as 45 percent, North Dakota State University 
researchers have found 
<http://www.ag.ndsu.nodak.edu/dickinso/research/2003/range03c.htm>. 
And grazing by large herbivores (including cattle) is essential for 
well-functioning prairie ecosystems, research at Kansas State 
University has determined.

Additionally, several recent studies show that pasture and grassland 
areas used for livestock reduce global warming by acting as carbon 
sinks. Converting croplands to pasture, which reduces erosion, 
effectively sequesters significant amounts of carbon. One analysis 
<http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/118961374/abstract?CRETRY=1&SRETRY=0>
 
published in the journal Global Change Biology showed a 19 percent 
increase in soil carbon after land changed from cropland to pasture. 
What's more, animal grazing reduces the need for the fertilizers and 
fuel used by farm machinery in crop cultivation, things that 
aggravate climate change.

Livestock grazing has other noteworthy environmental benefits as 
well. Compared to cropland, perennial pastures used for grazing can 
decrease soil erosion by 80 percent and markedly improve water 
quality, Minnesota's Land Stewardship Project research 
<http://www.landstewardshipproject.org/pr/05/newsr_050127.htm> has 
found. Even the United Nations report 
<ftp://ftp.fao.org/docrep/fao/010/a0701e/a0701e00.pdf> acknowledges, 
"There is growing evidence that both cattle ranching and pastoralism 
can have positive impacts on biodiversity."

As the contrast between the environmental impact of traditional 
farming and industrial farming shows, efforts to minimize greenhouse 
gases need to be much more sophisticated than just making blanket 
condemnations of certain foods. Farming methods vary tremendously, 
leading to widely variable global warming contributions for every 
food we eat. Recent research 
<http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/23/world/europe/23degrees.html?pagewanted=1&_r=2>
 
in Sweden shows that, depending on how and where a food is produced, 
its carbon dioxide emissions vary by a factor of 10.

And it should also be noted that farmers bear only a portion of the 
blame for greenhouse gas emissions in the food system. Only about 
one-fifth of the food system's energy use is farm-related, according 
to University of Wisconsin research. And the Soil Association in 
Britain estimates that only half of food's total greenhouse impact 
has any connection to farms. The rest comes from processing, 
transportation, storage, retailing and food preparation. The 
seemingly innocent potato chip, for instance, turns out to be a 
dreadfully climate-hostile food. Foods that are minimally processed, 
in season and locally grown, like those available at farmers' markets 
and backyard gardens, are generally the most climate-friendly.

Rampant waste at the processing, retail and household stages 
compounds the problem. About half of the food produced in the United 
States is thrown away, according to University of Arizona research. 
Thus, a consumer could measurably reduce personal global warming 
impact simply by more judicious grocery purchasing and use.

None of us, whether we are vegan or omnivore, can entirely avoid 
foods that play a role in global warming. Singling out meat is 
misleading and unhelpful, especially since few people are likely to 
entirely abandon animal-based foods. Mr. Gore, for one, apparently 
has no intention of going vegan. The 90 percent of Americans who eat 
meat and dairy are likely to respond the same way.

Still, there are numerous reasonable ways to reduce our individual 
contributions to climate change through our food choices. Because it 
takes more resources to produce meat and dairy than, say, fresh 
locally grown carrots, it's sensible to cut back on consumption of 
animal-based foods. More important, all eaters can lower their global 
warming contribution by following these simple rules: avoid processed 
foods and those from industrialized farms; reduce food waste; and buy 
local and in season.


Nicolette Hahn Niman, a lawyer and livestock rancher, is the author 
of "Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory 
Farms."

A version of this article appeared in print on October 31, 2009, on 
page A21 of the New York edition.




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