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Graves for AIDS Victims 
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South Africa 'Recycles' 
Graves for AIDS Victims

July 29, 2004
 By MICHAEL WINES 



 

DURBAN, South Africa, July 23 - At S Cemetery in Umlazi
Township, Innocent Gasa's handiwork is everywhere: endless
mounds of fresh red earth topped with headstones, unpainted
wooden crosses, or, for the most miserable, bricks bearing
a painted identifying number. Mr. Gasa has dug graves on
this lumpy, unkempt, Halloween-spooky hilltop for two years
now, five holes a week, 52 weeks a year, well over 500
holes in all. 

Which may seem peculiar, seeing as S Cemetery exhausted its
last space for new graves five years ago. City records sum
up its status succinctly, even dismissively: "Full." 

But in Durban, "full'' is a term of art. This city is being
battered by an AIDS pandemic so sweeping that people are
dying faster than the city can find space to bury them. And
so gravediggers like Mr. Gasa are reopening existing graves
- the city calls it "recycling'' - and interring fresh
bones atop the old ones. 

The job gives Mr. Gasa nightmares. "I think it is not a
good thing, to take out the bones'' for reburial, he said
during a break in his spadework. "But we have no choice." 

Every time southern Africa's AIDS epidemic threatens to
exhaust its store of superlatives, some new, sobering
extreme rises to the fore. The latest is Durban, where 51
of the 53 municipal cemeteries are officially filled to
capacity, and a surging death rate threatens to overwhelm
the remaining two within a couple of years. 

"Five years ago, we used to have about 120 funerals a
weekend, but this number has now jumped to 600,"
Thembinkosi Ngcobo, who heads the municipal department of
parks and cemeteries, said in an interview this week. "In
order to cope with the current rate of mortality - we hope
it is not going to increase - we will need to have 12.1
hectares every year of new gravesites." 

That is nearly 30 acres. "That would obviously turn Durban
and the whole country into one big graveyard if we
continue," he said. 

The statistics offer little encouragement. Roughly one in
eight South Africans is H.I.V.-positive, and in Durban,
South Africa's third-largest city with about 3.5 million
people, a survey two years ago of women at pregnancy
clinics found about 35 percent were infected with H.I.V. 

The city held a conference on the cemetery problem this
month and discovered that a host of other South African
graveyards - in Cape Town, Bloemfontein, Pretoria, Port
Elizabeth - are also filling up at alarming rates. 

Durban's space crunch, says Mr. Ngcobo, defies a quick or
simple solution. 

Cremation, cheaper and space-saving, is an obvious option -
and an untenable one for many of the ethnic Zulus who make
up seven in 10 Durbanites. "It is not good to burn the
bones in Zulu culture," Mr. Gasa, the gravedigger,
explained. "Your ancestors are unhappy." 

Mr. Ngcobo's office is campaigning to change the cultural
bias against cremation, even visiting schools to argue that
it can coexist with the Zulus' complex funeral rituals and
their deep reverence for the dead. But success so far is
limited; in five years, the share of Zulu burials by
cremation has doubled - to 2 percent. 

Recycling is but a temporary solution: many apartheid-era
graveyards once set aside for blacks are in poor or boggy
soil and are unsuited for their existing burials, much less
additions. No grave can be recycled for at least 10 years,
the span needed to reduce a corpse to bones, and survivors
can prevent a grave from being reused at all by renewing
their lease on the burial site. 

In practice, Mr. Ngcobo said, most families consent to
recycling only under financial duress: using someone else's
grave costs 320 rand, or about $53, while acquiring a new
gravesite at Red Hill Cemetery, one of the two still open,
costs about $250. Families also resist interring a loved
one with anyone except a close relative. 

Even then, he said, there are problems: some survivors
claim that the departed speak to them in dreams,
complaining, for instance, that their bunkmates have pushed
them so close to the surface that they get wet when it
rains. 

Durban could also build new cemeteries, and, indeed, the
city is negotiating to buy a 100-acre site to do just that.
But it costs at least $1.25 million to build a graveyard,
and more to maintain it in perpetuity, money the city does
not have. And those 100 acres will last only three and a
half years. 

A deliberate man, Mr. Ngcobo says that simple economics
will eventually lead families to the logical solution,
cremation. "It's not uncommon in a family to bury, say,
three people a year, and it is becoming very expensive,''
he said. "On average a funeral costs 15,000 rand" - close
to a year's average income. Cremation costs 375 rand. 

He could be a highways official contemplating the effect of
toll roads on traffic density. But when he talks about how
the rising death toll has affected his own life, it is
clear that he is anything but detached. 

"You are now required to go to funerals every weekend," he
said. "At times, you go to funerals for eight weekends
nonstop. At times, you have two a day, so you have to
divide the family up so that one can go to one funeral, and
one to the other. If you live in a neighborhood, you are
sure to feel it." 

Facts and figures do not do justice to Durban's plight. For
that, only visits to S Cemetery, which serves one of
Durban's most destitute neighborhoods, and Red Hill
Cemetery, one of the two municipal graveyards still open,
will do. 

Opened in 1996, Red Hill was supposed to last 15 years. Mr.
Ngcobo now estimates that it will be full in 10. No one who
walks Red Hill's rows of recent burials, heap after heap of
dirt blowing slowly away in the Indian Ocean breeze, can
fail to be sobered by the havoc AIDS is wreaking here. 

Yet it is not the number of graves that stops a visitor
cold, but their markers. Some of the dead are remembered
with only a sheet of paper, shielded from the elements by
plastic wrap, listing names, dates of birth and dates of
death. For many more, the only record is a few strips of
plastic tape, imprinted by a mortuary's label-maker and
glued to a tiny plate. 

At S Cemetery, the 37-year-old caretaker, Anton Khumalo,
bends over a succession of markers and ticks off the ages
of the dead: 31; 20; 38; 39; 26; 29;35; 31. "Most of the
people - maybe this one - are 18 to 30," he says, peering
at one marker. "You hear from the relatives that they died
of AIDS. They're not ashamed. They say: 'Our kids don't
listen. That's why they died.' '' 

Mr. Gasa, the gravedigger, nods when asked whether any of
his friends have died from AIDS-related diseases. "Too
many," he says. "I can't count them. Too many." 

Cemeteries here are all but deserted on weekdays. But as
the sun peaks overhead at S Cemetery, Judith Dlamoni and
her granddaughter, 4-year-old Phmelele, pass through the
rusted gate to visit the grave of Phmelele's mother and Ms.
Dlamoni's daughter, Gutulethu Dlamoni. 

Gutulethu Dlamoni died last October at 25 after traditional
healers failed to cure her. Her husband, an ex-convict,
does not live nearby. Judith Dlamoni, 73, unemployed,
divorced and broke, is now the sole support of a
4-year-old. 

At Red Hill, the only visitor is Siyada Tlatla, 22, who is
building a block wall around the grave of his uncle,
Phumalani Mkhwanaze. Mr. Mkhwanaze, he says, "was into
sport, very into sport.'' 

"Cross country,'' he adds. "He ran marathons." 

Mr.
Mkhwanaze left a wife and a 1-year-old son. "He got sick,"
the nephew says, not needing to say more. 

He was 28. 

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/29/international/africa/29durb.html?ex=1092132500&ei=1&en=e337b570925ca84d


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