VACList Digest Tuesday, November 12 2002 Volume 03 : Number 012
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html Topics in Today's Digest: [VACList] Re: gas lamp [VACList] Re: Pergo in Airstreams RE: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? RE: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? Re: [VACList] Re: Pergo in Airstreams Re: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? RE: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? RE: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler Re: [VACList] 1960 RVing in FL [VACList] Building a DV editing suite in Airstream Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler RE: [VACList] rv refridgerators/pergo Re: [VACList] Looking for CHEAP campground near Disney/Orlando RE: [VACList] gas lamp question [VACList] How to check condition of frame? RE: [VACList] How to check condition of frame? Re: [VACList] How to check condition of frame? Re: [VACList] gas lamp question RE: [VACList] gas lamp question RE: [VACList] gas lamp question [VACList] Camping with Mickey Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler Re: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? Re: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? Re: [VACList] Re: gas lamp Re: [VACList] How to check condition of frame? [VACList] Re: vulkum storage Re: [VACList] gas lamp question Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler Re: [VACList] Re: gas lamp Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler Re: [VACList] Building a DV editing suite in Airstream Re: [VACList] rv refridgerators/pergo [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? [VACList] Bolt Pattern [VACList] Re: Pergo in Airstreams Re: [VACList] Building a DV editing suite in Airstream Re: [VACList] Re: gas lamp ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 07:10:27 -0800 (PST) From: jon fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Re: gas lamp Now that you have ruled out an moisture in the line (by replacing it), I would suspect the regulator. If it is a single stage regulator (not to be confused with a dual-bottle automatic changeover regulator), you probably *should* replace it. I don't know that it could cause the problems you've seen, but for precise pressure regulation, you need the two stage unit. A single stage unit is fine for a gas grill. But, for stuff like pilot lights, a steady pressure is best. Jon in SC 68 Overlander still looking for a local guy to convert my OPD valves! __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos http://launch.yahoo.com/u2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 07:17:52 -0800 (PST) From: jon fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Re: Pergo in Airstreams Is Pergo still made of particle board? If it isn't sealed all around, it can soak up water pretty quickly from the bottom or edges. Now, I'm not saying YOUR Airstream leaks, but if it ever did, would the Pergo survive? If you have a leak, it's most likely to turn up at the perimeter. So, if you really want Pergo, maybe you could just seal the outer edges before installing them. A little tedious now, but it could save you a re-installation later. FWIW, I found some really convincing vynil flooring. Everyone asks what kind of "wood" it is. I love to tell them it's harvested from PVC trees. It is textured and has knots and all sorts of stuff. Of course, it's about 2-3 bucks a square foot, too. But, it's nothing like the old stuff that is obviously plastic. And, it is completely impervious to 2-year-olds. Jon in SC 68 Overlander 2 kids and lots of Vynil flooring from my friend who owns the flooring store. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos http://launch.yahoo.com/u2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 08:06:16 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? - --openmail-part-1524448e-00000001 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Disposition: inline ;Creation-Date="Mon, 11 Nov 2002 08:06:15 -0800" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jim is right on with this one. This is how the aircraft industry also keeps their two-part sealants from curing once mixed - there are freezers in the hangars for just this. I'm able to get an opened tube of Vulkem to last about 45 days this way. RJ > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:JSmith1805@;aol.com] > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 4:54 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? > > I dont use valkum but I use 5200 I have had the same provlem > and I solved it > by putting the tubes in the fridge and also have put thenm in > the deep > freezer this has worked for me you mite try that. good luck. > Jim Smith 1992 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross) > - --openmail-part-1524448e-00000001-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 10:19:50 -0600 From: "Jim Combs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? I cut the nozzle tip so that the opening is sized to allow a ~snug fit around a house gutter hanger nail (which is about a 8 inch aluminum nail). After caulking, I slip the nail in as far as it'll go then wrap the tip in plastic with a twist tie to secure it. The caulk in the nozzle dries some, and eventually the top of the tube too. But, the nail still pulls out and provides a passage for the good stuff down in the bottom of the tube. It won't last forever this way, but it definitely extends the tube's lifespan by quite a bit. Jimbo / '76 Sovereign - -----Original Message----- From: John Leggett [mailto:pklhead2@;yahoo.com] > > I'm curious if anyone has come up with a way to store > opened tubes of Vulkem, without them hardening up. [snip] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 12:07:55 -0500 From: Dave Lowrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: Pergo in Airstreams At 07:17 AM 11/11/2002 -0800, you wrote: >Is Pergo still made of particle board? If it isn't >sealed all around, it can soak up water pretty quickly >from the bottom or edges. Now, I'm not saying YOUR >Airstream leaks, but if it ever did, would the Pergo >survive? > >If you have a leak, it's most likely to turn up at the >perimeter. So, if you really want Pergo, maybe you >could just seal the outer edges before installing >them. A little tedious now, but it could save you a >re-installation later. When I was planning to install Pergo (I have switched to the Armstrong solid vinyl tile due to cost/esthetics), I considered these issues. Pergo recommends when installing on a surface that may be damp (concrete floors), you should install on top of their plastic sheeting. As far as sealing the perimeter edges, you can fill in that 1/4 inch gap with silicone calking/sealant. That is legal, as it still allows for expansion of the flooring. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 10:33:06 -0700 From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? I just learned on another list you can can put Vulkum in a zip bag and put in the freezer. Supposed to last years that way. I'm going to save a lot of money,,, I probably throw away a tube a year as there is always something to seal on two trailers. In fact I'm going to take the unopen one that I have and put it in. I know they tend to dry up even unopened. Ken Johansen 5358 59 Traveler 75 Tradewind At 07:54 AM 11/11/02 EST, you wrote: >I dont use valkum but I use 5200 I have had the same provlem and I solved it >by putting the tubes in the fridge and also have put thenm in the deep >freezer this has worked for me you mite try that. good luck. >Jim Smith 1992 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross) > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > >To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:42:01 -0500 From: Dave Lowrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? At 08:06 AM 11/11/2002 -0800, you wrote: >Jim is right on with this one. This is how the aircraft industry also >keeps their two-part sealants from curing once mixed - there are >freezers in the hangars for just this. I assume from this that Vulcum wont "cure" in cold weather? Dave ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 11:12:38 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? - --openmail-part-15260b0e-00000001 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Disposition: inline ;Creation-Date="Mon, 11 Nov 2002 11:12:38 -0800" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It won't even come out of the tube.... You have to defrost it first. RJ > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:dave_lowrey@;yahoo.com] > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 10:42 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? > > At 08:06 AM 11/11/2002 -0800, you wrote: > >Jim is right on with this one. This is how the aircraft > industry also > >keeps their two-part sealants from curing once mixed - there are > >freezers in the hangars for just this. > I assume from this that Vulcum wont "cure" in cold weather? > Dave - --openmail-part-15260b0e-00000001-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 11:41:09 -0800 From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler Hey Lew, Can't help you with the Airstream but I did design and build an all aluminum bicycle trailer that is pulled by your bike and carries 9 bikes. Dont ask :) Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com 66 Airstream Safari Mira Mar Mobile Park Oceanside, CA - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 5:31 PM Subject: Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler > 11/9/2002 2:59:52 AM, David Turner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >I want to be able to pull it up on the trailer using a wench > > My dream for decades. > > -- Lew #4239 > '72 Safari > bicycle > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 12:03:38 -0800 From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] 1960 RVing in FL Thanks for the heads up on Fort Myers. I am afraid to ask whether the entire east and west coast of Florida have been overpopulated and ruined. After living 15 years in Maui I grew to love camping by the beach. Being 5 miles inland wouldn't cut it for me. One curiosity. I keep hearing news reports about what a backwater parts of Florida are. Those are the places that I would like to visit. Thanks for your great trip reports. Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com 66 Airstream Safari Mira Mar Mobile Park Oceanside, CA - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Tyler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 6:43 AM Subject: [VACList] 1960 RVing in FL > Hi Guys, > > Back in the 60s, we towed our Apache tent trailer to Florida to visit a > favorite great uncle and aunt. They were the first adults we knew who > explored the continent with a travel trailer. One of their goals was to have > someone take their picture on the steps to every state capital. > > Each Winter after they retired, they went south to Fort Myers Beach and > lived in their Shasta. We thought (and still do) this was a pretty cool > thing to do. Now that it's our turn, we've adopted a similar lifestyle. The > difference is we're not interested in staying at one place all Winter. > > Today, we visited the same beach with the same name and saw where their > trailer had been parked and where we had parked our tent trailer. It was not > what we remembered, yet it was exactly the same piece of real estate. We > recognized the ocean was as beautiful as before and the white sand was as > soft under our feet as back then. > > But, what used to be a quaint and pleasant small town for Snowbirds on a > stretch of sparcely populated beach is now just another postage stamp size > RV park with shoulder to shoulder RVs jammed together on the beach and high > rise condos surrounding them (and the parking lot 10' from the RVs). There > are the usual glitzy little shops selling all the stuff so common at tourist > trap locations throughout the world. > > Even though we are staying at an upscale RV Resort five miles inland and are > paying $3 a day for full hookups (November rate), I had to check out the > rates at this park. The rate is $60 a day whether for week or a month and no > discounts during November or any other month. Perhaps that's why the park > was nearly deserted except for a dozen sites directly on the beach. > > It was an enlightening day for us. We confronted vintage nostalgia with > modern day reality. The only restorations we'll be making here will be > refinements on old memories. > > Terry > > mailto:tylerbears@;airstream.net > > > > > > > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 12:12:36 -0800 From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Building a DV editing suite in Airstream I've been a videographer since the early 70s. I never could afford all the gear to have my own personal editing system. With the advent of ultra high speed notebooks with Firewire I now have a chance to put together my dream system. My plan is to remove the couch opposite the galley and put a counter and bottom shelf (32"x 72") in that space. I would like to bring 20-30 amps of AC directly to this system without going through Univolt. My trailer park only provides one BIG plug that has a twist lock. I assume that it is 110 volt. So if anybody has a good safe idea on how to split this load I would love to hear it. Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com 66 Airstream Safari Mira Mar Mobile Park Oceanside, CA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:24:27 -0500 From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler 11/11/2002 3:41:09 AM, My Airstream <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >an all >aluminum bicycle trailer that is pulled by your bike and carries 9 bikes. No, no -- it's the wench that is critical. -- Lew #4239 '72 Safari bicycle ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:36:19 -0500 From: Lexxy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] rv refridgerators/pergo Really funny you should mention that...my Mr was off work today and we just got home from Lowes where Pergo is on sale for $2 a sq ft...and he has decided that he can actually live with the "picture of wood" that he calls it...he is a woodworker and purist!!! This is the best choice because we can put it over all the adhesive we can't get up from the previous floor and it will cover the slight uneveness of the p[atches after I put down leveling compound. Your pictures wouldn't come up....I would like to see them and I am interested in how the Pergo is done in trailers...whether to leave the 1/4" at the edge and how to do the baseboard trim in the few places where it would show...usually stuff will be built on top of it anyway. I am also interested to know how it absorbs the movement of the trailer as it bounces. I suppose the foam unlayment helps. I guess it just doesn't slide on that foam. We have a super deluxe bandsaw so amking the curves is no problem. I love the idea. This stuff is only 20% heaver than vinyl tile!!! That was interesting. We will put down vinyl tile in the bath area tho due to cutting around pipes and all and it's where the electrical stuff is. I will do some research on the archives and A/S BB board where I know there is a lot of info. At least we are well on our way. Lexxy ~ Lexxy, ~ I highly recommend Pergo for the floor. I believe they have ~ a parquet pattern. Good Luck Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:41:47 -0500 From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Looking for CHEAP campground near Disney/Orlando on 11/09/02 3:28 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Hello ALL. > Wife wants to take the kids to Disney Thanksgiving week. I want to go camping > in North Georgia. So we compromised and will be camping in Orlando FL. > Any one know of a nice camp ground thats cheap/close to Disney? Bobby, If you haven't investigated the county parks, that's an option. The name of the counties are Orange, Seminole and Osceola. We stayed at the Orange County park once many years ago. I don't recall the cost, but I'm sure I'd have remembered if it was outrageous. Try a google.com search. The Orange County Convention and Civic Center might be worth touching for information. Secondly, if you're not a member of Coast to Coast, you could call one of the resellers listed in Trailer Life magazine and buy a $99 resale membership (plus pay a year's dues = $100~). This would provide you with access to RV Resorts in the Kissimmee area (near Orlando) - plus hundreds of other Resorts across the continnet. Even though you may not use your membership again during the year, it could easily pay for itself on this one trip. Another option is Passport America which offers a 50% discount on the daily rate. I haven't looked at the park locations in a few years, but I suspect there are some in the vicinity of Orlando. Depending on your timetable relative to their peak season, they might offer more than one or two nights at the discount rate. There is always Wekiwa Springs State Park. I don't have the current telephone number. The old number was 407.884.2009. Your goal of a nice campground that's cheap/close to Disney is like finding a needle in the haystack. You may need to break into your kid's piggy banks. While you're at it, look over the data on tornadoes. They're real, they can be in the area and they're still occurring in the southeastern and central Atlantic states. Usually, the end of November is the beginning of a quiet period for tornadoes. Notice the word "usually." Terry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:59:58 -0500 From: Lexxy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] gas lamp question I wondered when I read this....are there gas lamps on some airstreams? When we took out the fridge on our 67 Safari we noticed a small gas line going up the wall next to the fridge and it wasn't the one for the fridge. There was an electric fixture there but the tiny copper gas line just ends in mid air and hung there. Wouldn't a gas light just make for soot and get the walls dirty? Why would you want one? Lexxy ~ Hi fellow VCRs ~ I replaced the 3/8 gas line from the main line up to the ~ lamp, no help. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:06:16 -0800 From: "Jim W" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] How to check condition of frame? Hi all, I have been through my '77 Argosy Minuet single axle looking for things that need attention. The last thing I need to determine is the condition of the trailer frame. Are there key areas to look at. Should I cut a hole in the belly pan at some location? The aluminum floor does not give me any clues. What tricks have you folks used to determine the condition of the frame. I hate to drop the belly pan, that looks like a lot of work. I'm betting you have a method to check out a trailer you are considering buying? The parts of the frame that I can see appear to be in good condition. I can get a long screwdriver in a few places. Haven't found any heavy rust scale. I'm trying to calculate how much money I want to put in this little trailer. If the frame is getting weak it will limit the amount I spend on it. I should have done my homework before the purchase, It was one of those impulse things. :) Thanks for any suggestions. Jim Widdicombe ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:20:31 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [VACList] How to check condition of frame? - --openmail-part-152717a7-00000001 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Disposition: inline ;Creation-Date="Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:20:30 -0800" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The unexposed areas of the frame are rarely ever affected, and are almost never worse off than the tongue and rear bumper - short of a chronic water leak or weld failure from rough use. You can also see the frame in the wheel-wells, step box area and on some late trailers in the wire harness splice access hole in the belly after the A-Frame. I've seen some coastal trailers with severly corroded A-Frames and bumpers that have had just a light oxidation on the frame just aft and fwd of where the belly pan starts. Best of luck, RJ VintageAirstream.com > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:jjw@;ttc-cmc.net] > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 2:06 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [VACList] How to check condition of frame? > > Hi all, > I have been through my '77 Argosy Minuet single axle > looking for things > that need attention. The last thing I need to determine is > the condition of > the trailer frame. Are there key areas to look at. Should I > cut a hole in > the belly pan at some location? The aluminum floor does not > give me any > clues. What tricks have you folks used to determine the > condition of the > frame. I hate to drop the belly pan, that looks like a lot > of work. I'm > betting you have a method to check out a trailer you are > considering buying? - --openmail-part-152717a7-00000001-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:34:38 -0700 From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] How to check condition of frame? What I did is tap with a hammer (just a tap) along the frame on my tradewind. I heard all kinds of loose stuff in there which was either dirt or rust. Turned out to be rust on the bottom of the frame from water getting into the trunk area and running along the bottom of the belly. So I did take down the belly and found loose rust on the cross members, but still a good frame. I will be treating it and I think it will be fixed. That trunk is not a good design IMHO. Mine had a 1/4 inch gap along the hinge where it was not fastened well, so I refastened and sealed with Vulcum. Then I'm planning to put some sort of gasket material around the inside of the lid. Ken Johansen 5358 1959 Traveler 1975 Tradewind At 02:06 PM 11/11/02 -0800, you wrote: >Hi all, > > I have been through my '77 Argosy Minuet single axle looking for things >that need attention. The last thing I need to determine is the condition of >the trailer frame. Are there key areas to look at. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:35:08 -0800 From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] gas lamp question Yes Lexxy, The gas line you are pondering is indeed the feeder for a gas lamp. They are quite bright and do serve to take away the chill on a fall evening. It would be great if you could get to one of the VAC rallies. A lot of the little mysteries that we all have with our vintage coaches get cleared up when you see a great restoration. Unless you are really keen on a perfect restoration I wouldn't bother to hunt for the stock fixture. And unless you really want a gas lamp I would just cap the existing line. If you are going to restore, the lamp is a brushed metal finish and the globe is available for replacement. Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com 66 Airstream Safari Mira Mar Mobile Park Oceanside, CA - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lexxy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 12:59 PM Subject: RE: [VACList] gas lamp question > I wondered when I read this....are there gas lamps on some airstreams? > When we took out the fridge on our 67 Safari we noticed a small gas line > going up the wall next to the fridge and it wasn't the one for the > fridge. There was an electric fixture there but the tiny copper gas > line just ends in mid air and hung there. Wouldn't a gas light just > make for soot and get the walls dirty? Why would you want one? > > Lexxy > > ~ Hi fellow VCRs > ~ I replaced the 3/8 gas line from the main line up to the > ~ lamp, no help. > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:53:03 -0600 From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] gas lamp question Greetings Lexxy! At least through the 1960s, the LP gas lamp was either an option or a dealer installed accessory on Airstreams. When properly adjusted, the gas lamp does not produce soot. The gas lamp will, however, produce a fair amount of heat and a pleasing luminescent glow when used to light the trailer. In the days before the Univolt and large marine type house batteries, the LP Gas lamp was the only practical lighting source when boondocking. Once the12-volt system became standard, the LP gas lamp provided another means of extending the useful life of the house battery when not connected to shore power. Due to the heat produced by these lamps, children camping in RVs where these are utilized must be taught the danger of touching one when it is being used (I can still remember being burned when I touched the globe on our LP gas lamp in our SunWay when I was six years old). Kevin Kevin D. Allen 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban 1978 Argosy Minuet 1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training) WBCCI/VAC #6359 - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:admin@;airstream.net] On Behalf Of Lexxy Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 3:00 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [VACList] gas lamp question I wondered when I read this....are there gas lamps on some airstreams? When we took out the fridge on our 67 Safari we noticed a small gas line going up the wall next to the fridge and it wasn't the one for the fridge. There was an electric fixture there but the tiny copper gas line just ends in mid air and hung there. Wouldn't a gas light just make for soot and get the walls dirty? Why would you want one? Lexxy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:55:54 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [VACList] gas lamp question - --openmail-part-15276327-00000001 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Disposition: inline ;Creation-Date="Mon, 11 Nov 2002 13:55:54 -0800" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit They are actually rather clean, and give off great light - but also warmth, so are good for mountain/seashore and fall/spring/winter camping. They were standard until the 12 volt systems took hold in the early '60's, and then offered as an option until about 1969 or so. Our '56 Flying Cloud has one that has probably 400 hours of use behind it, and no soot - they burn clean. The modern Humphrey & Veritas lamps are still rather stylish, and didn't cheapen with time: http://www.gas-lights.com/interior.html RJ > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:Earth2lexxy@;comcast.net] > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 1:00 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: [VACList] gas lamp question > > I wondered when I read this....are there gas lamps on some airstreams? > When we took out the fridge on our 67 Safari we noticed a > small gas line > going up the wall next to the fridge and it wasn't the one for the > fridge. There was an electric fixture there but the tiny copper gas > line just ends in mid air and hung there. Wouldn't a gas light just > make for soot and get the walls dirty? Why would you want one? - --openmail-part-15276327-00000001-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 17:57:16 -0500 From: "W.E.Spinney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Camping with Mickey With the tourist trade off, you might try the Chamber of Commerce in Orlando for a motel room, rather than a campground. $74.00 sounds rather steep. Ruth (71 Airstream) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:39:07 -0500 From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler Can't let this one go.. A team of wenches is asking for more trouble than your life is worth.. ;> Daisy Jim W wrote: > Make sure you don't use too big of wench, often the smaller ones are more > usefull in tandem. You don't want to hurt your trailer. > > JimW > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 5:31 PM > Subject: Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler > > > >>11/9/2002 2:59:52 AM, David Turner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >> >>>I want to be able to pull it up on the trailer using a wench >> >>My dream for decades. >> >> -- Lew #4239 >>'72 Safari >>bicycle >> >> >>---------------------------------------------------------------------- >>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text >> >>To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html >> > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:43:21 -0500 From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? Stick a big fat nail in the end. Also using an ice pick to unclog is often good. Daisy John Leggett wrote: > I'm curious if anyone has come up with a way to store > opened tubes of Vulkem, without them hardening up. > There always seems to be that one little sealing job > that demands opening that $7 tube. I've tried > plugging the end, taping over the plug, putting them > in ziplock bags... but the delivery end always plugs. > With my new heavy-duty caulking gun, the half-used > tube I tried to re-use this weekend ended up splitting > the casing in the middle, rather than exiting the > nozzle. I was able to salvage the goo in the middle > and load some small syringes for my purposes, but as > always that stuff ends up getting on everything. > Any better ideas from you veterans? > John Leggett > 1968 Safari 22 > WBCCI 1154 > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos > http://launch.yahoo.com/u2 > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 17:11:38 -0800 From: "Jim W" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? Hi All, I did not know about freezing some of this stuff. Not shure if the wife will let me put this stuff in with the groceries though. I have always used a long deck screw. If you don't use it in a while when you pull out the deck screw the cured plug at the end will come right out with the screw. You might find little chunks of cured material initially using this method. The aluminum gutter nail I will have to try. JimW - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daisy Welch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 3:43 PM Subject: Re: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? > Stick a big fat nail in the end. Also using an ice pick to unclog is > often good. > > Daisy > > John Leggett wrote: > > I'm curious if anyone has come up with a way to store > > opened tubes of Vulkem, without them hardening up. > > There always seems to be that one little sealing job > > that demands opening that $7 tube. I've tried > > plugging the end, taping over the plug, putting them > > in ziplock bags... but the delivery end always plugs. > > With my new heavy-duty caulking gun, the half-used > > tube I tried to re-use this weekend ended up splitting > > the casing in the middle, rather than exiting the > > nozzle. I was able to salvage the goo in the middle > > and load some small syringes for my purposes, but as > > always that stuff ends up getting on everything. > > Any better ideas from you veterans? > > John Leggett > > 1968 Safari 22 > > WBCCI 1154 > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos > > http://launch.yahoo.com/u2 > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 19:46:41 -0500 From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: gas lamp Jon, I think he said that the burners on the stove all work correctly. One of the most-telling signs of a failing regulator is lighting a SECOND or third burner and observing the first. If the flame stays pretty much the same, the regulator is OK. If it dies down when you open the valve for the second burner, the regulator isn't. (regulating, that is) <<Jim>> jon fitz wrote: > Now that you have ruled out an moisture in the line > (by replacing it), I would suspect the regulator. If > it is a single stage regulator (not to be confused > with a dual-bottle automatic changeover regulator), > you probably *should* replace it. > > I don't know that it could cause the problems you've > seen, but for precise pressure regulation, you need > the two stage unit. A single stage unit is fine for a > gas grill. But, for stuff like pilot lights, a steady > pressure is best. > > Jon in SC > 68 Overlander > still looking for a local guy to convert my OPD valves! > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos > http://launch.yahoo.com/u2 > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > > - -- <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> <<mailto:jdunmyer@;toltbbs.com>> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 19:54:01 -0500 From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] How to check condition of frame? Jim, My 'A' frame was badly rusted on the curb side. The problem was the umbilical cord; it was routed into the TOP of the frame member, bringing rain water right into the frame. The other side was OK. It was good from about 4" forward of the body, I didn't have to replace anything that was covered by the bellypan. I found the problem when I went to drill & tap the frame member, it wasn't thick enough to hold threads. Others find it when the frame breaks. (someone on this list posted pics of their trailer back in 1999) <<Jim>> Jim W wrote: > Hi all, > > I have been through my '77 Argosy Minuet single axle looking for things > that need attention. The last thing I need to determine is the condition of > the trailer frame. Are there key areas to look at. Should I cut a hole in > the belly pan at some location? The aluminum floor does not give me any > clues. What tricks have you folks used to determine the condition of the > frame. I hate to drop the belly pan, that looks like a lot of work. I'm > betting you have a method to check out a trailer you are considering buying? > > The parts of the frame that I can see appear to be in good condition. I > can get a long screwdriver in a few places. Haven't found any heavy rust > scale. > > I'm trying to calculate how much money I want to put in this little > trailer. If the frame is getting weak it will limit the amount I spend on > it. I should have done my homework before the purchase, It was one of those > impulse things. :) > > Thanks for any suggestions. > > Jim Widdicombe > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > > - -- <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> <<mailto:jdunmyer@;toltbbs.com>> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:53:55 -0600 From: "BILL DEERING" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Re: vulkum storage I've tried this. It works for a reasonable time (1-3 months. After using what I need I thread a lag screw of about 3-5 inches thru the open nozzle. When using the remainder I unscrew the lag screw. It takes a wrench.. (not to be confused with a wench) . After getting the lag screw out I sometimes have to pry the remaining vulkem out to the nozzle with a small screw driver. Perhaps this along with refrigeration would work even better. Bill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 19:57:44 -0500 From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] gas lamp question Lexxy, you probably wouldn't want one since you plan to only camp where there are hook ups. For Airstreamers who boondock and are completely self contained a gas light provided light and some heat (which can be good or bad). It wouldn't soot up the wall if it's adjusted properly (which obviously the fridge you removed was not). Think of it as a miniature fireplace in your trailer -- good for contemplating. ;-) . Jim Greene ' 68 Tradewind - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lexxy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 15:59 Subject: RE: [VACList] gas lamp question > I wondered when I read this....are there gas lamps on some airstreams? > When we took out the fridge on our 67 Safari we noticed a small gas line > going up the wall next to the fridge and it wasn't the one for the > fridge. There was an electric fixture there but the tiny copper gas > line just ends in mid air and hung there. Wouldn't a gas light just > make for soot and get the walls dirty? Why would you want one? > > Lexxy > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:14:33 -0800 From: "Jim W" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler Thanks Daisy, You are right of course. I should be more carefull. I would never intend anyone here to get hurt because of my bad advice. I will try to be more carefull in the future. ;) Take care... JimW - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daisy Welch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 3:39 PM Subject: Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler > Can't let this one go.. > > A team of wenches is asking for more trouble than your life is worth.. > > ;> > > Daisy > > Jim W wrote: > > Make sure you don't use too big of wench, often the smaller ones are more > > usefull in tandem. You don't want to hurt your trailer. > > > > JimW > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 5:31 PM > > Subject: Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler > > > > > > > >>11/9/2002 2:59:52 AM, David Turner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> > >> > >>>I want to be able to pull it up on the trailer using a wench > >> > >>My dream for decades. > >> > >> -- Lew #4239 > >>'72 Safari > >>bicycle > >> > >> > >>---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > >> > >>To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > >>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > >> > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 19:25:41 -0600 From: "Gerald Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: gas lamp If its an OLD regulator it should be replaced before it causes a fire. Old regulator diaphragms tend to leak because of cracking. Old regulator valves tend to be sticky. Old regulators tend to not work well at very small loads, like the lamp alone. Some old style regulators (at least the ones on my house) lost regulation when then new pilotless furnace was installed and the new furnace couldn't be made to work until the regulators (both stages, high and low) were replaced. When the furnace shut off, the pressure rose to an unreasonable value for the next furnace start and the furnace controller refused to allow ignition with excess gas pressure. But for diagnostic purposes, if having a burner on the stove lit, while testing the lamp and that burner doesn't change while the lamp shows problems it may not be the regulator. Still for safety purposes a regulator should not be expected to last more than 15 or 20 years if that long. It might be that there is still some air in the line to the lamp. It won't purge nearly as rapidly as the line to a stove burner because the lamp orifice is a lot smaller than a stove orifice and it will take a lot longer to get the line full of propane, especially now that the line has been replaced. Perhaps patience in relighting the lamp is all that is required. One might speed the bleeding of the air from the line by loosening the connection at the lamp, but I'd rather burn the odd propane than vent it to the room, especially if there was any ignition source like a stove burner, or pilot, or the possibility of a static spark or light switch spark. My '68 Owner's manual indicates that all Airstreams that year including the pipe for the optional gas lamp. Gerald J. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:26:40 -0500 From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Plans for airstream hauler 11/11/2002 1:39:07 PM, Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >A team of wenches is asking for more trouble than your life is worth.. I know you're right... but like chocolate, I just can't help myself. -- Lew #4239 '72 Safari bicycle ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:39:11 -0500 From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Building a DV editing suite in Airstream Here's a cord splitter that might be able to solve your problem: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&classNum=311&subdeptNum=310&storeNum=9&productId=17289 Bob Patterson would like to bring 20-30 amps of >AC directly to this system without going through Univolt. My trailer park >only provides one BIG plug that has a twist lock. I assume that it is 110 >volt. So if anybody has a good safe idea on how to split this load I would >love to hear it. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:44:23 -0600 From: John Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] rv refridgerators/pergo One more data point for you...several of the listees, including myself, have installed laminate flooring (of which Pergo is one brand) in our coaches. I started with 1/8" plywood screwed into the original floor, followed by the foam layer, followed by the laminate flooring. I used the glue-less variety, based on the vendor's recommendation for a cabin-type application which would see extremes of temperature and humidity (Wisconsin climate). You will want to spend enough time measuring your floor, measuring the pieces, and planning where each end joint will fall; mapping out the floor on graph paper, and drawing in each piece of flooring before you make your first cut will definitely pay dividends. A jigsaw worked well for all the cuts. And, the cutting is the biggest part of this job. As recommended, I left the 1/4" (nominal) gap around the edges, and filled it in with caulk in a matching neutral tone. You can buy and easily install matching molding stock in several shapes, for baseboard if you desire. I installed 2 pieces where it just seemed like there should be baseboard. I drilled and screwed into place easily enough, but in hindsight it really wasn't necessary; you might be just as content with the caulked edge. Be sure and buy the installation tool (a flat steel bar 6-8" long with a lip on each end); it really simplifies the process of tightly fitting the sections together. After 2 seasons, the seams remain tight and it still looks great. Small amounts of moisture bead up and wipe away easily. Overall, it was economical to buy, straightforward to install, easy to clean, and holds up well in service. Yes, the floor floats, but that doesn't mean it is unstable by any means. Although "next time" (hah!) I would be tempted to go with the genuine rosewood strip flooring I found at Home Depot last month... Lexxy wrote: >I am >interested in how the Pergo is done in trailers...whether to leave the >1/4" at the edge and how to do the baseboard trim in the few places >where it would show...usually stuff will be built on top of it anyway. >I am also interested to know how it absorbs the movement of the trailer >as it bounces. I suppose the foam unlayment helps. I guess it just >doesn't slide on that foam. > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 19:10:28 -0800 (PST) From: Ray Pillar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? Hi John, I insert a 3" deck screw into the nozzle then close it off as best I can with a small piece of plastic and a rubber band. It won't keep vulkemlkum from hardening but at least you can clean out the nozzle by pulling out the screw. I can usually kvulkemlkum for about 2 months that way. Ray Pillar WBCCI 6514 Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 22:20:33 -0800 (PST) From: John Leggett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Storing opened caulking tubes? I'm curious if anyone has come up with a way to store opened tubes of Vulkem, without them hardening up. There always seems to be that one little sealing job that demands opening that $7 tube. I've tried plugging the end, taping over the plug, putting them in ziplock bags... but the delivery end always plugs. With my new heavy-duty caulking gun, the half-used tube I tried to re-use this weekend ended up splitting the casing in the middle, rather than exiting the nozzle. I was able to salvage the goo in the middle and load some small syringes for my purposes, but as always that stuff ends up getting on everything. Any better ideas from you veterans? John Leggett 1968 Safari 22 WBCCI 1154 __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos http://launch.yahoo.com/u2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 19:16:21 -0800 From: Paul Farley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Bolt Pattern I am trying to help a friend who is looking to move a 53 Flying Cloud. Does anyone know the bolt pattern, rim size, tire size etc? It currently has split rims and he'd like to take some steel rims w/ decent tires with him for the move. Thank you, paul #2580 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 02 20:19:43 -0700 From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Re: Pergo in Airstreams I had Pergo installed in kitchen, dr, and family room plus hall ways in my home and was concerned about moisture absorbtion of the pressed wood material. I took a scrap and and soaked it for three days to see what would happen. Very little happened. It absorbed some water but very slowly. In fact after the first day I noted no swelling of the piece and a slight swelling at end of three days. I can hardly imagine a trailer situation where is kind of water emersion would happen. I think using it in a trailer would be safe and coupled with sealing with silcone around edges would be of little risk for moisture damage. Also consider that if enough water was available to damage the Pergo it would raised havoc with whatever floor covering you are using Roy Lashway '78 Argosy,'56 Bubble WBCCI 1610 VAC [EMAIL PROTECTED] web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway (polishing report included) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:09:35 -0700 From: "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Building a DV editing suite in Airstream Cruiser - it's surprising how our paths seem to have paralleled. I ran a small video production co. in Kona from '86-'94 as an adjunct to my underwater videocamera rental business. Those cameras were great earners, while i gathered experience doing scuba charters and driving boats up and down the coast. Anyhow, here's what *i'd* do for a clean power system for your digital video suite: I'd tap 110vac from the main panel inside the trailer, at the point where the shore power comes in, add a 15-20A gfci on a dedicated circuit to the video section, and use that line to feed an 'Uninterruptable Power Supply' (UPS) for the computer/video gear. This is exactly what i did with the 13' Burro, actually. Tuna ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 07:36:28 -0500 From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: gas lamp Dr. J, my ' 68 Tradewind didn't have the gas line installed for a gas lamp. I've had everything apart and wasn't to be found. Jim Greene ' 68 Tradewind - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gerald Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 20:25 Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: gas lamp .>>>>>> snip good stuff <<<<<< > > My '68 Owner's manual indicates that all Airstreams that year including the pipe for the optional gas lamp. > > Gerald J. > ------------------------------ End of VACList Digest V3 #12 **************************** When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
