VACList Digest Friday, November 15 2002 Volume 03 : Number 015
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html Topics in Today's Digest: RE: [VACList] '68 airstream pix Re: [VACList] '68 airstream pix [VACList] Windows for 1965 Overlander RE: [VACList] Windows for 1965 Overlander [VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #14 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:47:11 -0600 From: "Jim Combs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] '68 airstream pix Looks like a nice job, Pete. I'm going thru a similar restore myself. Lot more work than you originally think it'll be, eh? Jimbo / '76 Sovereign - -----Original Message----- From: Pete Ryner [mailto:pryner@;interfold.com] [snips] >http://Petesairstreampix@;groups.msn.com/Petesairstreampix/68airstream.msnw > I've been working on the trailer for about a >year and a half. I replaced all of the appliances, the bath floor and all >new interior wood. It is about 50% original design and 50% custom. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:02:09 -0500 From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] '68 airstream pix Wow, nice job Pete ! I'm drooling over those drawers! Thanks for the tour, daisy Pete Ryner wrote: > http://Petesairstreampix@;groups.msn.com/Petesairstreampix/68airstream.msnw > I tried to send a link to some pictures of my '68 airstream renovation, but > many of you had trouble getting to the MSN site. I created an MSN group and > moved the pictures to the link above. A couple of folks tried the link and > it seems to be working well. I've been working on the trailer for about a > year and a half. I replaced all of the appliances, the bath floor and all > new interior wood. It is about 50% original design and 50% custom. I > changed from walnut to oak and used pergo in the kitchen and entry. I have > a lot of drawers and doors to make this winter, them I'm off to florida to > finishe the outside. Any comments and/or suggestions are welcome. > Pete > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 21:24:01 -0700 From: "Earl Peck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Windows for 1965 Overlander Hello All, I'm looking for some help in finding some windows or suitable replacements for a 1965, Overlander. It is an International model if it makes a difference. They are flat windows , mounted in an aluminum frame. The top frame ( the best that I can explain it ) has a " C " type aluminum molding that runs the length of the top frame. This molding locks into a reverse " C " type molding on the top window seal. This forms the hinge form which it hangs. I have tried Inland RV and several salvage yards but no luck. The windows are square on the corners and not rounded measuring appx. 21 1/2" X 28 3/4". The trailer has other windows of the same design but bigger, I figure that if I can't find the small ones I could cut down the larger ones if I could find them. I know that in 66 they went to the curved windows and the rounded corners. I am wondering if these windows in 65 were particular to that year or if earlier model used this design. I am new to this and this is my first trailer. I could, and would, appreciate any and all help and suggestions. Earl Peck 1965 Overlander International ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 23:51:43 -0600 From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] Windows for 1965 Overlander Greetings Earl! I am not entirely clear on whether you are looking for replacement glass - - - or an entire window assembly with frame and mechanisms. If all you need to do is replace the glass, a competent glass shop should be able to cut and install the glass. I have had three window panes replaced in my Overlander over the years and each time either a glass shop or my Airstream dealer performed the service. Replacement gasket material may be difficult to find. The last time the front window was replaced on my '64 Overlander, the dealer had to reuse the existing gasket material. Kevin Kevin D. Allen 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban 1978 Argosy Minuet 1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training) WBCCI/VAC #6359 - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:admin@;airstream.net] On Behalf Of Earl Peck Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 10:24 PM To: airstream forum Subject: [VACList] Windows for 1965 Overlander Hello All, I'm looking for some help in finding some windows or suitable replacements for a 1965, Overlander. It is an International model if it makes a difference. They are flat windows , mounted in an aluminum frame. The top frame ( the best that I can explain it ) has a " C " type aluminum molding that runs the length of the top frame. This molding locks into a reverse " C " type molding on the top window seal. This forms the hinge form which it hangs. I have tried Inland RV and several salvage yards but no luck. The windows are square on the corners and not rounded measuring appx. 21 1/2" X 28 3/4". The trailer has other windows of the same design but bigger, I figure that if I can't find the small ones I could cut down the larger ones if I could find them. I know that in 66 they went to the curved windows and the rounded corners. I am wondering if these windows in 65 were particular to that year or if earlier model used this design. I am new to this and this is my first trailer. I could, and would, appreciate any and all help and suggestions. Earl Peck 1965 Overlander International - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 06:31:33 -0600 From: "Duane Wells" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #14 Would you please unscribe us to the daily newsletter? Thank you, Marie - -----Original Message----- From: VACList Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Thursday, November 14, 2002 7:03 AM Subject: VACList Digest V3 #14 > >VACList Digest Thursday, November 14 2002 Volume 03 : Number 014 > > > >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text > >To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > >Topics in Today's Digest: > >[VACList] Any tips on nice campgrounds in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area, or other AZ >[VACList] Furnace Repairs >Re: [VACList] Any tips on nice campgrounds in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area, or other AZ >[VACList] Re: Baja Camping >Re: [VACList] Winter usage? >Re: [VACList] Camping with Mickey >Re: [VACList] Re: Baja Camping >Re: [VACList] Any tips on nice campgrounds in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area, or other AZ >[VACList] RE: VACList Digest V3 #13 >Re: [VACList] 1967 safari >[VACList] Introduction to Majordomo >[VACList] Parking and leaving it >[VACList] Gas Tank Replacement >RE: [VACList] Gas Tank Replacement >Re: [VACList] Brake Contoller >Re: [VACList] Gas Tank Replacement >Re: [VACList] Gas Tank Replacement >[VACList] Information about '81 Airstream, 31 foot? >[VACList] '68 airstream pix >[VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #12 > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 08:30:59 EST >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [VACList] Any tips on nice campgrounds in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area, or other AZ > >I am planning an Airstream trip to AZ in Jan and will be staying a few nights >in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area and would be interested in any advise to >especially nice or unique campgrounds not too far removed from the city. >Also, does anyone have the name of the vintage trailer park in Bisbee? I >will be heading down there and thought I might stay a night if possible. > >Thanks, >John -- Atlanta >77 Excella 500 > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 09:04:24 -0500 >From: "Rick Langer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [VACList] Furnace Repairs > >RJ, Thanks for your thoughtful and extensive response to my questions. I >appreciate your approach of trying to restore the furnace insteat of just >replacing it. I may end up replacing it, but not without a fight. > >Here's what I've learned. The furnace is not a Utah Hydro, but probably >Duo-Therm model 15T, as stated in my owners manual. This is a passive unit >and I'm convinced everything except the controlls is original. The controlls >have a large "ITT" stamped on the thermostat and they don't line up with the >holes in the cover. > >I went to the documents that you referred to. They weren't for the unit I >have, but they did help me understand the whole configuration better. It's >also not the furnace that's in the '68GT in the archives that you sent me >to. I searched the archives for one that looked like mine without success. >My airstream is in the archives (from previous owner), but doesn't show the >furnace. > >So, first I'm going to try to rebuild the chimney/vent. If that solves the >sooting problem, I'll try to get a few more years out of it. The burner can >seems to be solid throughout, except for the exhaust collar, which is rusted >through and was once repaired with a tin can. (Does "TCT" stand for "Tin Can >Technology"?) I'll try to fix that when I replace the exhaust pipe. > >If I have to replace the unit, I'm leaning toward another passive unit. A >new Suburban would probably be faster and easier and give me additional >storage space, but the fact that it needs electricity to work is a big >negetive. I would like to check out the new passive units that you referred >to, if you can remember that manufacture's names. > >Thank you, >Rick Langer > >HERE'S WHAT RJ WROTE; > >>Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 13:18:47 -0800 >>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >>Subject: RE: [VACList] Furnace Repairs >> >>Hi Rick, >>Depends on which furnace you have. If it is the Suburban NT-20 that >>resides on the floor in your cabinetry, with ducts that then provide >>heat put to small plastic grills and has two blower motors, by all >>means have it replaced with a new unit - they fit in almost the same >>space with almost the same hook-ups. Those early sealed combustion >>units gave people fits. >> >>On the other hand, if it is one of the passive heat Utah Hydro's, >>http://vintageairstream.com/archives/%2768GT2.jpg >> >>those units are fully repairable/restorable, and add value to the >>trailer. >> >>If by chance it is a desirable Utah Hydro, a couple of items in your >>post jump out: >> >>> The furnace in my '66 GlobeTrotter is mostly original. I >>> can't tell the >>> brand. The controls and the thermostat are not original >>> because they don't line up with the holes in the cover. >>Someone may have adapted a new control module, which is OK, but it has >>to be matched for the burner size and type of thermocouples used. A >>correct installation will also result in the pilot and thermostat >>control knob to line up - someone may have did a do-it yourself special. >> >>> The chimney seems to have been a double >>> walled pipe, the exhaust being the inner pipe and fresh air >>> coming in the >>> larger pipe. The outer pipe is completely missing and the >>> inner pipe is in >>> bad shape, but still works. >>> I was planning to rebuild the chimney/vent, but recently >>> another problem >>> developed. The furnace now burns dirty which causes the outer >>> skin, over the >>> exhaust, to turn black. >>This is caused by not enough air supply/too much LP flow to the burner. >> It may be because of that replaced control being the wrong type, or >>may have developed an internal leak. The inner exhaust/outer fresh air >>supply tubes are actually an engineered component. The hot exhaust air >>creates a pulling draft for the incoming fresh air. You should restore >>that design before going further. You can see a typical install in the >>install manual for its baby brother Hydroflame: >>http://airstream.org/members/documents/apmanuals/HydroFlame.pdf >> >>> I cleaned the burner, which was dirty with rust in >>> some of the ports, but it didn't help. >>Rust on a burner is OK, as the act of burning LP will produce water. >>Most were designed to rust effectively without altering performance or >>safety. But you do need all the ports open - plugged ports will cause >>sooting. What you do not want to rust is the burner can! This can >>occur if rainwater is allowed to go in/down the exhaust/inlet pipes. >>Any thing more than surface rust (loss in thickness), should have a new >>burner can fabricated. >> >>> I can't find any adjustment on the >>> controls other than the pilot adjustment. I hear a slight >>> hissing from the >>> controls/burner area which I didn't hear when the unit was >>> burning clean. >> >>There is only the pilot adjustment on these controls. The pressure >>regulation and on/off diaphragm regulation is fixed by design. You >>could have a diaphragm failure, and the only remedy is to replace the >>control assy. Small appliance parts stores are the best bet. There >>are two mfr's that have units that adapt to RV passive heat LP >>furnaces. (Being here at work, I can't remember the names). >> >>There are two Airstream manuals on the VAC website with info on the >>Suburban NT-20 and the Hydroflame: >>http://airstream.org/members/documents/tlmanuals/%276626%27OverlanderOwnMa n >.pdf >>http://airstream.org/members/documents/tlmanuals/65CaravelManual.pdf >> >>As >>with any combustion device, always verify annually that the combustion >>chamber and exhaust flues are 100% sealed tight, and always leave a >>window slightly open for ventilation. >> >>Best of luck, >>RJ >> > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 08:47:53 -0700 >From: "Maxwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [VACList] Any tips on nice campgrounds in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area, or other AZ > >The Bisbee trailer park is The Shady Dell >http://www.theshadydell.com/about.html > >Have fun! > >Shari Davis >'64 GlobeTrotter - "Maxwell" >WBCCI #1824, VAC >www.insideout-design.net/maxwell > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:04:30 EST >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [VACList] Re: Baja Camping > >In a message dated 11/13/02 6:50:48 AM Pacific Standard Time, >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > ><< If you ever desire info on Baja camping, that's my forte'. > >> >Hi Bob: > What are your favorite places to camp in Baja? > John Woodburn > #11942 > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:19:37 -0500 >From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [VACList] Winter usage? > >on 11/12/02 8:21 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >> My wife and I are starting a redo job on our kitchen. It will be during some >> of the winter months. We are planning on using our 1970 LY with its four >> burner stove, oven and double sinks for our (remote/outside) kitchen during >> the process. I'm thinking of using an "oil radiator" space heater to keep >> the chill off, but I'm not sure if it will keep the pipes from freezing. >> And, how would I keep the water line to the unit from freezing. I'm sure, >> I'm not the first to use our trailer in this way. Does anyone have any >> thoughts/suggestions/words of wisdom. >> >> Paul Waddell WBCCI/VAC 1270 66 Overlander (winterized) 70 LY 23' single >> (remote kitchen) > >Paul, > >As I read your note, it sounded to me like you plan to leave the water line >connected to your Airstream all Winter. You may want to reconsider that - >depending on how long a water line you need to use and "other" factors. > >I've done it both ways and there are distinct advantages for refilling the >water tank with a warm hose every few days and then returning the hose to >your warm house until the next refill is needed. Of course, this assumes a >freeze proof water faucet on the outside of your house. > >But, if you insist on having the water hose outside all Winter, I suggest >you call around to hardware or mobile home supply stores and ask if they >have electric heat tape for wrapping around outdoor water lines. Buy more >than you think you'll need. This is not a time to be skimpy. > >You'll want to pay particular attention to the hardware fittings where your >outdoor water hose connects to the trailer AND to the area where the >trailer's water line goes inside the aluminum skin BEFORE going inside the >heated body of your Airstream. Those are easy places for freeze ups to >occur. > >Years ago, I bought this tape in a packaged kit with insulation wrapping and >a thermostat. Once you see how tightly the tape has to be wound around the >water hose, you'll know if you need more for the entire job. > >As you know, heat naturally rises. Thus, heat from an oil radiator will not >stay on the floor nor spill into remote floor areas where water pipes are >located. It'll need some help - an electric fan. Thus, you'll need an >extension cord. This is not the time to "make do" with some old extension >cord you haven't used in decades. Use 30 amp not 20 amp. > >An electric heater should be considered. It can do double duty and provide >serious heat during an unexpected blizzard when your propane tanks run out >and your regular Airstream furnace is no longer your "back up." > >While you are making the heat tape installation, think ahead to how you'll >troubleshoot a problem - such as when there is a foot of snow on top of the >water line and heat tape. You might want to use PVC pipe (2" or 3"). It's a >good roof and floor for the water hose, tape and insulation, plus it holds >some of the warmth from the heat tape - if rags are stuffed into both ends. > >The same general procedures should be used on your waste water line. If >you're really gung ho, put the entire thing in PVC and forget about dealing >with a fragile vinyl hose when temperatures are below freezing. You know >the vinyl will crack if you even touch it - and then leak forever. > >Is this making sense to you? I suspect others will offer ideas to the mix of >suggestions. Take your time and do it right - the first time. You don't want >a frozen water line and you don't want to do the job a second time. > >The second time is not only harder in freezing weather, but you won't have a >cushion of time for leisure problem solving while wearing gloves, a heavy >coat and sitting in the snow repairing a frozen water line, trying not to >freeze your tush and working as fast as you can to finish the job before >dark and before another foot of snow (or inch of freezing rain) accumulates. > >Been there, done that. No fond memories. It's now 45 years later and I can >laugh about those experiences. Back then, I knew everything and no one could >tell me anything. I could make more mistakes in one day than just about >anyone else I knew. It was only because of persistence, ingenuity and >bravado that I mastered our plumbing needs during those Winters when we were >first married and living in a mobile home outside a Navy base in Maine. > >Terry > >mailto:tylerbears@;airstream.net > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:19:31 -0500 >From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [VACList] Camping with Mickey > >on 11/11/02 5:57 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >> With the tourist trade off, you might try the Chamber of Commerce in Orlando >> for a motel room, rather than a campground. $74.00 sounds rather steep. >> >> Ruth (71 Airstream) > >Bobby, > >Ruth has a point. If you were reading my notes of two weeks ago about our >trip south from the Northeast, you may have noticed a comment about motel >rooms in the Carolinas costing $25+- for two beds/two people. > >What you may not have realized is that commercial RV parks (as opposed to >Mom and Park RV Parks) typically charge $20-30, even in the Carolinas. In >my opinion, there's a big difference in price between parks who advertise in >the big directories and the Mom and Pop's who don't, but there's not a big >difference in the basic services each provides. > >If you have sufficient time to do the homework I suggested in yesterday's >reply, the information you dig out can have a profound impact on your >budget. > >Terry > >mailto:tylerbears@;airstream.net > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 09:56:04 -0800 >From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: Baja Camping > >I love Puerto Escondido and the Loreto area. > >Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com >66 Airstream Safari >Mira Mar Mobile Park >Oceanside, CA >> >> << If you ever desire info on Baja camping, that's my forte'. >> >> >> Hi Bob: >> What are your favorite places to camp in Baja? >> John Woodburn >> #11942 > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:09:35 -0500 >From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [VACList] Any tips on nice campgrounds in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area, or other AZ > >on 11/13/02 8:30 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >> I am planning an Airstream trip to AZ in Jan and will be staying a few nights >> in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area >> >John, > >If you have any interest in going solar, Scottsdale is the right place and >January is the right time. Take a look at: > >http://www.rvsolarelectric.com > >and send for their free solar planner. > >If you'd like the installation done for you, it's quick and economical while >you are right there. Be sure to call ahead and make arrangements rather >than being a "driveup." If you do your homework first and talk to them on >their 800 number, it can go smooth as silk. > >I'm not affiliated in any way with this business nor do I receive any >benefit from expressing my opinion. All I am is a satisfied customer. > >As for your other comment: > >> would be interested in any advise to especially nice or unique campgrounds not >> too far removed from the city. >> >The Tonto National Forest is adjacent to Scottsdale. There are dozens of >unique campgrounds not too far removed from the city. Of course, your >perspective on what constitutes "far removed" may not match up with those >who live in the southwest. <grin> We liked the campground in Tortilla Flat. > >You may want to ask Bob Brown at RV Solar Electric for suggestions of closer >places if you are going to be stopping there anyway. Courtesy parking is an >option if you are a WBCCI member. We've done that on several occasions. > >If you have an AAA membership, pick up the "Indian Country" map before >leaving Atlanta. It has detailed data about unique spots, plus it's easier >to see perspective on one map than using portions from other maps. > >In your note, you also wrote: > >> Also, does anyone have the name of the vintage trailer park in Bisbee? I will >> be heading down there and thought I might stay a night if possible. >> >Again, call them and make sure there is space available. It's a tiny park >with limited space which requires tight maneuvering. The upside is there are >other RV parks in town, plus the town has a detailed website. > >At least one of the RV parks in town is affiliated with a membership system >which means it doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg to stay there. You can >check that out before you leave - while surfing the web. > >Additional information on how to figure out the best deal for buying into a >membership system is one of the things I contributed to Tom Patterson's >archives last year. You might or might not want to consider that option. > >Good luck, > >Terry > >mailto:tylerbears@;airstream.net > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:26:39 -0500 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [VACList] RE: VACList Digest V3 #13 > >Hello, Paul -- > >It can get pretty cold there I know, so what I'd do would be to wrap >your water supply line with a layer of insulation, then wrap a heater >tape around that and then another layer of insulation. The constantly >heated water line would help in the prevention of the water lines in the >trailer from freezing when combined with the use of the oil radiator you >mention. You might also think about temporarily underpinning the >trailer in order to shield it from the wind. Good luck with your >kitchen project. > >Harley C. Muse >WBCCI #7566 > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:19:29 -0800 >From: Sharon Chaytor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [VACList] 1967 safari > >Actually, I had remembered reading something about this, and I looked at a >couple of windows. It looks like someone already has done this repair, as >the windows are definitely not glass. I wasn't sure if they were supposed >to be or not. But, they don't seem to leak! > >Sharon, in BC > >>Greetings Sharon! >> >>The one item that is unique to coaches of the '66 through '68 model years >>are the curved Corning Glass windows. You will want to be aware of any >>damaged windows as the replacment glass is VERY difficult to find, and when >>(if) found tends to be quite expensive. It seems that many who have coaches >>from this time period often have to resort to the use of Lexan or other >>acrylic products if one or more of the original windows must be replaced. >> >>Good luck with your inspection! >> >>Kevin Allen > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 14:32:33 -0700 >From: "Randy Unter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [VACList] Introduction to Majordomo > >Three cheers for RJ Dial!!!!! Great work and service to fellow Airstreamers. >Also, I can atest to his skills in web design as well. Our Rocky Mountian >Rally web pages are a credit to his technical and artistic skill. > >Randy Unter >Regional 11 VAC rep. > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:00:47 -0500 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [VACList] Parking and leaving it > >Whats the best way to leave her out there sitting in one place for awhile? > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:07:43 -0500 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [VACList] Gas Tank Replacement > >My two just got ripped off... > >Any reason i would want to put originals on her? >Could someone tell me what size and ball park price i'm going to need > >Thanks much- > >Jamie Fraser >A beast of a 1973 31' Sovereign > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 14:23:00 -0800 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: RE: [VACList] Gas Tank Replacement > >- --openmail-part-1535cc05-00000001 >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII >Content-Disposition: inline > ;Creation-Date="Wed, 13 Nov 2002 14:23:00 -0800" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >http://airstreamdreams.com/category.html?UCIDs=69543 > >Good total price, great quality. >RJ > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:BuzzHacker@;aol.com] >> Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 2:08 PM >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> Subject: [VACList] Gas Tank Replacement > >> My two just got ripped off... >> Any reason i would want to put originals on her? >> Could someone tell me what size and ball park price i'm going to need > >- --openmail-part-1535cc05-00000001-- > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:40:49 -0500 >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [VACList] Brake Contoller > >Jim >I am not an expert on brake controllers, by any means. I have a Reese Compact controller in my '88 Chevy 4X4 shortbed that I have used for several years, and I like it because it helps stop the trailer. Now to compare it. I just bought a new Suburban 4X4 and installed a Prodigy, after like you researching info on controllers. To describe the difference between the two would take to long. But to make it simple the Prodigy is awesome. Could be the difference in tow vehicle also, but I have swapped the Prodigy over to my '88 truck, and the difference is incredible. The prodigy works like a champ. >I have heard good stuff on the Jordan also, but I went with the Prodigy mainly because of the 3/4 inch travel in the Chevy brakes. From what the tech person told me is with the Jordan I adjust the cable to a set length then factor in about 3/4 inch play to get a starting point. Sounded like it would take to long to set up plus I didn't want an extra cable down under the dash where my wife may accidently kick it. The Suburban is her daily driver. >Hope this helps. >PS: I order mine on the internet from Southwest Wheels in Texas for $117.00 > >Bobby >> >> From: "Jim W" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Date: 2002/11/12 Tue PM 10:06:04 EST >> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Subject: [VACList] Brake Contoller >> >> Hi all, >> >> I have been through many forums talking about brake contollers. I am not >> familiar with them so I would like to ask your opinion. The two that seem >> to stand out now are the Jordan Ultima, and the Tekonsha Prodigy. I know >> this seems to be a hard question after studying all the forums I have been >> through. I'm hoping that experienced folk might have an answer. >> >> Some of my driving will be on icy roads here in Montana. We have a pickup >> with four wheel ABS. The trailer is only 3500 GVW. From what I understand >> at this time is that locking the brakes on a trailer can cause it to slide >> past you leading to unpeasant results. In these conditions a break >> controler might not be an asset. >> >> I can learn this the hard way, but I'm not inclined to. Hints, tips, >> clues would be appreciated. >> >> Thanks for all of your previous help. >> >> JimW >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text >> >> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html >> >> > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:07:44 -0600 >From: "Kevin D. Allen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [VACList] Gas Tank Replacement > >Greetings Jamie! > >You didn't mention your tank size, but given that your trailer is a >Sovereign I would suppose that it originally would have had either 30 or 40 >pound tanks. They could have been steel, but would have more likely been >aluminum. The least that you would be looking at for new Worthington >Aluminum tanks in the 30 lb. size would be in the neighborhood of $140.00 >each - - or if in the 40 lb. size $150.00 each - - more if you want a remote >reading level gauge accessory. Given that a theft was involved, this may be >one of those areas where it might be worth turning it in to your insurance >carrier. There are three reasons that you might like the aluminum tanks - - >1.) They are lighter and easier to manage when carrying to refill station. >2.) When polished, they really compliment the Airstream. 3.) They don't >rust so you don't have to worry about periodically repainting them. The >only down-side that I have encountered was when I lived in Wisconsin - - >none of the propane dealers in my county (Grant) would fill aluminum tanks >(they were unwilling to provide an explanation). > >You can find one source of aluminum tanks at the following: > >http://www.airstreamdreams.com/category.html?UCIDs=69543 > >I purchased my 40 lb. Aluminum tanks there almost two years ago and am very >pleased with the product and service. > >Kevin > >Kevin D. Allen >WBCCI/VAC #6359 >1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban >1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (Towcar in >Training) >- ----- Original Message ----- >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 4:07 PM >Subject: [VACList] Gas Tank Replacement > > >> >> >> My two just got ripped off... >> >> Any reason i would want to put originals on her? >> Could someone tell me what size and ball park price i'm going to need >> >> Thanks much- >> >> Jamie Fraser >> A beast of a 1973 31' Sovereign > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:04:47 -0500 >From: Dick Kenan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [VACList] Gas Tank Replacement > >Someone stole your propane tanks? Were they aluminum? If you'd settle for >steel ones, Camping World has 30# tanks at about $60 each, and 40# tanks at >about $75 each. > >- - Dick >(5368) > > >At 05:07 PM 11/13/2002 -0500, you wrote: > > >>My two just got ripped off... >> >>Any reason i would want to put originals on her? >>Could someone tell me what size and ball park price i'm going to need >> >>Thanks much- >> >>Jamie Fraser >>A beast of a 1973 31' Sovereign >> >>---------------------------------------------------------------------- >>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text >> >>To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > >"God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is over. >Why should you and I?" > -Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784) >- --------------------------------------- >Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672 >Retired and loving it! >WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella >Atlanta >mailto:as5368@;mindspring.com >http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/ > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:28:20 -0500 >From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [VACList] Information about '81 Airstream, 31 foot? > >Hi All, > >I'm thinking to look at a '81, 31 foot Airstream tomorrow. Price seems OK >to my budget, but it's larger than the 25 to 27 foot I had in mind. I'd >appreciate any information about problems to look for with a unit like this. >I think this is well past the age of frame separation/weakness, but I really >don't have a clue. > >Thanks for any information, > > Regards, '69 Safari, Joy >- ----- Original Message ----- >From: "Dick Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 7:04 PM >Subject: Re: [VACList] Gas Tank Replacement > > >> Someone stole your propane tanks? Were they aluminum? If you'd settle >for >> steel ones, Camping World has 30# tanks at about $60 each, and 40# tanks >at >> about $75 each. >> >> - Dick >> (5368) >> >> >> At 05:07 PM 11/13/2002 -0500, you wrote: >> >> >> >My two just got ripped off... >> > >> >Any reason i would want to put originals on her? >> >Could someone tell me what size and ball park price i'm going to need >> > >> >Thanks much- >> > >> >Jamie Fraser >> >A beast of a 1973 31' Sovereign >> > >> >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text >> > >> >To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >> >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html >> >> "God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is over. >> Why should you and I?" >> -Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784) >> --------------------------------------- >> Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672 >> Retired and loving it! >> WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella >> Atlanta >> mailto:as5368@;mindspring.com >> http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/ >> >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text >> >> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html >> > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:34:38 -0700 >From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [VACList] '68 airstream pix > >http://Petesairstreampix@;groups.msn.com/Petesairstreampix/68airstream.msnw >I tried to send a link to some pictures of my '68 airstream renovation, but >many of you had trouble getting to the MSN site. I created an MSN group and >moved the pictures to the link above. A couple of folks tried the link and >it seems to be working well. I've been working on the trailer for about a >year and a half. I replaced all of the appliances, the bath floor and all >new interior wood. It is about 50% original design and 50% custom. I >changed from walnut to oak and used pergo in the kitchen and entry. I have >a lot of drawers and doors to make this winter, them I'm off to florida to >finishe the outside. Any comments and/or suggestions are welcome. >Pete > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 22:20:31 -0600 >From: "Ned P. Digh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #12 > >> __________________________________________________ >> : [VACList] Looking for CHEAP campground near Disney/Orlando >> >> on 11/09/02 3:28 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >> >> >> > Wife wants to take the kids to Disney Thanksgiving week.. > > Any one >know of a nice camp ground thats cheap/close to Disney? >>> > >This may help. We were in Orlando last March, arrived just before dark, >some former RV parks overtaken by urban sprawl. In yellow pages, found Port >O'Call, not great, but adequate, gate manned at night, laundromat, etc. >Rates: about mid twenties, with 5th or 6th night free. This park had maybe >200 spaces, with most filled with snowbirds, but 2 other AS trailers were >there. Location is behind Camping World in Kissimmee (On Hwy 192). >Official address is: Port O'Call, 5195 W Irlo Bronson Hwy, Kissimmee, Phone >(407) 847-2388. I think the Bronson Hwy is Hwy 192, but can't find my >Orlando map right now. I recommend you enter Kissimmee via Hwy 192, as >opposed to I 4. Traffic on I 4 during rush hours is horendous. We had a >vehicle problem and needed a late checkout, managers were super nice. We >were there on family business and did not got to Disney, but I think it is a >short distance. Regards, Ned Digh > >------------------------------ > >End of VACList Digest V3 #14 >**************************** > > >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text > >To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html ------------------------------ End of VACList Digest V3 #15 **************************** When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
