VACList Digest Tuesday, November 19 2002 Volume 03 : Number 019
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html Topics in Today's Digest: Re: [VACList] Cracks in refrigerator vent, solicitation for ideas Re: [VACList] table leg Re: [VACList] Heaters Re: [VACList] table leg RE: [VACList] Heaters Re: [VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #16 Re: [VACList] Heaters Re: [VACList] Heaters [VACList] Napier stripper Re: [VACList] Heaters RE: [VACList] Belly pan repair Re: [VACList] Heaters [VACList] converter and teflon tape on propane lines RE: [VACList] aluminum polish/tiles Re: [VACList] converter and teflon tape on propane lines Re: [VACList] aluminum polish/tiles Re: [VACList] aluminum polish/tiles Re: [VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #17 Re: [VACList] converter and teflon tape on propane lines Re: [VACList] converter and teflon tape on propane lines Re: [VACList] Napier stripper Re: [VACList] aluminum polish/tiles RE: [VACList] Napier stripper RE: [VACList] Napier stripper [VACList] Wood bending... Re: [VACList] Wood bending... Re: [VACList] Wood bending... Re: [VACList] Wood bending... Re: [VACList] Wood bending... ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 10:34:58 -0500 From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Cracks in refrigerator vent, solicitation for ideas Jim W , There is a product available at NAPA auto parts stores called fiber strand , much like bondo but stronger as it has short strands of fiberglass in it . There is another type called tiger hair , which has long strands in it , I would `nt use that except where it wouldnt show , because its harder to fair it in smooothly . It would be even stronger tho . I used fiberstrand to repair the vent in my 64 , in place , I just scratched it up real good with 36 grit , used regular `glass where it was badly cracked , and faired it in with the fiberstrand , sanded to 180 grit and painted it . Looks fine . Chris J ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 10:51:01 -0500 From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] table leg on 11/15/02 6:44 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > A rambunctious grandchild broke the mechanism that holds the leg on > table in our 72 Airstream. Is this a part that is still available, and > where might I find it? Thanks. I enjoy reading the forum. John > John, If you haven't tried the usual Airstream dealers, you might start with the ones who contribute replies to this list before branching out to others, like Oasis in AZ, or American Way in ID, or Fogdall in IA. If there are no nibbles when you ask Airstream dealers, try local trailer dealers who sell any brand of RV. You may need to modify something they use. There are a variety of mechanisms used to hold legs on tables, so shop around (perhaps buy one of each and then be creative when you get back home). If none of the clones are satisfactory, put the broken parts in a ziplock plastic bag and take it to any local machine shop. It'll cost a few bucks for them to make up one for you, but what else in new? Or, if your local high school has a technical shop section, that might worth a try. Some teachers like using real life problems when making lesson plans for students. It's relatively easy to find out the Shop teacher's name and arrange a visit after school. As an aside, the table leg in our '77 31' Airstream has a tendency to loosen up every few years. Last week, it had loosened up enough for me to replace the two pop rivets and lag screw that hold it in place. If I wanted, I could make it a permanent fix, but I wrap carpet around the leg for my cats to use as scratching post. When the leg loosens up is when I replace the carpet. Some of us have quirks that make no sense to others. <grin> Good Luck with your search. If you need phone numbers of Airstream dealers, ask and we can dig out those for you. Terry mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 10:51:06 -0500 From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Heaters on 11/15/02 7:40 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Looking at the Olympian Catalytic heater for my 31' Sovereign. I took the > old Suburban furnace out. I only need something to keep the chill off in 40 > degree type conditions. Any suggestions or comments. > > Also if I were to replace the Suburban furnace, what is the replacement > unit. Hey Don, Before you install the catalytic heater, go down to your True Value Hardware store and buy a hinge as long as the catalytic heater is high, then go down to your local lumber yard (or the scrap pile in your garage) and pick out piece of wood slightly larger than your catalytic heater. The name of the game is to mount your catalytic heater on wood with a hinge so you can direct the heat in several directions, yet be able to secure it tight for traveling. While you're getting ready to do the installation, put some stain on the wood (or that piece of discarded table top you found in the cellar) to match your Airstream's cabinets. A little polyurethane might help dress it up. You may recall when we had the '87 32' Airstream, I bought the big 15,000 ceramic heater (with 3 settings) and installed a muffin fan at one corner to improve distribution of warmed air. That was an awesome combination. In the '77 31' Airstream we're using this Winter, I didn't put the catalytic heater on a hinge twenty years ago (dumb move). But I did install a 12 volt occillating fan (somewhat smart move). The smartest move was in choosing an Airstream with thermopane windows throughout. The recommended fresh air opening for a catalytic heater is one square foot. That translates into an opening one inch wide by 12 inches long. Crack two roof vents or windows and that'll more than do the trick. If you haven't bought the catalytic heater yet, why don't you go to the flea market at the Florida State Rally in Sarasota during February and buy a used one for $100? Every year, we see them for sale. A quicker way to get one is ask RV Solar Electric to FedEx it to you. As for the standard furnace, replacement is typically same make and model with a simple straight forward installation. Two years ago, when the original furnace in our '77 31' finally bit the dust (flames shooting out through holes in the fire box), I asked Oasis in Tucson to replace it. They took a little more than an hour and it fit like a glove. For us, the big propane furnace is a convenience we enjoy immensely during the wee hours of the morning when outside temperatures may be their coldest (sometimes below freezing). If you've been reading my comments over the years, you know I'm big on redundancy and options for varying circumstances. That's why we have the standard propane furnace with 12 volt blower, the 6100 propane catalytic heater with small fan, a 120 volt small 750 watt cube heater and a 120 volt larger1200 watt heater. The bottom line is - to each his own. Your needs dictate your choices. Stay warm, Terry mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] PS - Today, Jules Pluvious dumped ten (yes - 10) inches of rain on us here in North Fort Myers, plus mixed it in with thunderstorms and a tornado watch (gulp). When I asked the CG office about a shelter if the tornado watch became a tornado warning, I was told they would unlock the recreation hall. Talk about being cavalier. I wasn't impressed. Wish we were in New Mexico, Arizona or Southern California. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 10:09:51 -0600 From: "Gerald Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] table leg The folding table leg attachment in my '68 Caravel is the same as the one in my '74 Monitor SOB. I suspect its a common RV item. Gerald J. ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 10:51:01 -0500 >on 11/15/02 6:44 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >> A rambunctious grandchild broke the mechanism that holds the leg on >> table in our 72 Airstream. Is this a part that is still available, and >> where might I find it? Thanks. I enjoy reading the forum. John >> > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 10:21:14 -0600 From: "Jim Combs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] Heaters Not sure which furnace you have, but... Here's a link to the thread that answered this question for me. As per Chris' direction, the replacement went in easily. Only exception is that I also had to extend the 4 wires for DC power and the thermostat control. Jimbo / '76 Sovereign http://www.tompatterson.com/cgi-bin/webglimpse/home2/www/tompatterson?query= 24000+Bonnet+cap&filter=%5E%2Fhome2%2Fwww%2Ftompatterson&errors=0&age=&maxfi les=100&maxlines=30&maxchars=10000 - -----Original Message----- From: Don Hardman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] [snip] > Also if I were to replace the Suburban furnace, what is the replacement > unit. > Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 11:51:31 -0500 From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #16 Hi, Buddy ... Sorry to be slow responding -- I was away all weekend. I have had two different experiences using the Napier Stripper. The first time I sprayed it on my Tradewind the overspray did not affect the replacement plastic windows, the running lights, the tires, etc. The next time I sprayed some stripper I wasn't as careful and got more overspray and I did get some cloudy spots on my plastic windows. That may have been because I left it on longer. My recommendation is to protect any plastic parts and any painted areas. I even slipped plastic garbage bags over my wheels and tires. I think it's a good product and a lot easier (and safer) to use than the harsh strippers. I use eye protection when spraying and wear rubber gloves even though the gloves may not be necessary. Otherwise, it's just work clothes. Applying with a roller or a brush would prevent overspray and could eliminate the need to mask plastic parts if applied carefully. It's your call. Jim Greene ' 68 Tradewind - ----- Original Message ----- From: "buddy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 13:12 Subject: [VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #16 > > Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 14:01:51 -0500 > From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [VACList] Re: [A/S] Protection other than Clearcoat > > > Jim, The Napier product sounds too good to be true. Is it necessary to tape off or otherwise protect other surfaces from damage? i.e., wheels, glass, etc? > > Thanks, > Buddy Atwood > > NEVER MISTAKE MOTION FOR ACTION > Ernest Hemingway (1889 - 1961) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 10:21:00 -0800 From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Heaters I'm confused. My experience with three models of catalytic heaters is that they produce a VERY DRY heat and have no mechanism to introduce moisture into the sytem. I love my CAT in SoCal! It gently and silently takes the chill of the coach with temps into the 40's. I would not recommend it in freezing climes. Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com 66 Airstream Safari Mira Mar Mobile Park Oceanside, CA - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Heaters > Don, > > If you will be in humid conditions I would suggest installing a new forced > air furnace. While I have no personal experience with catalytic heaters, my > parents do. They refuse to use it while in Florida (where they winter) > because of the extra humidity it puts inside the coach. Otherwise I hear > that they are great. > > Scott > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > Looking at the Olympian Catalytic heater for my 31' Sovereign. I took the > > old Suburban furnace out. I only need something to keep the chill off in > 40 > > degree type conditions. Any suggestions or comments. > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 10:53:56 -0800 From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Heaters > Every year, we see them for sale. A quicker way to get one is > ask RV Solar Electric to FedEx it to you. Hi Don and Terry: FTHOI, I looked up Olympian Wave Heaters in my latest Campers Choice catalog (that's where I got mine - in Alabama). The numbers are: Wave 3 $245 Wave 6 $319 Wave 8 $375 They are having an "early winter sale". One of the offers is 20% off of Olympian Wave heaters. It requires a source code. That's $63.80 off the Wave 6 (!) If you are interested get back to me an I'll give you the code from my catalog. Don't see why that wouldn't work. No Sales tax either. One buck shipping. Almost irresistible, huh? Later, GQ '67 Safari PS: I got the little feet that allow the heater to sit on the floor and be pointed where it will do the most good. Bungee cord it to the wall when traveling. The feet are $9.99 reg price and darn well worth it. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 12:37:15 -0700 From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Napier stripper I don't think this has been addressed yet. What kind of coverage do you get with the stripper? I mean how much did you use? Someone told me it would take 8 gallons to do my 31' Sovereign, or nearly $400 in stripper. A curious mind wants to know. Have to come up with a winter project. Roger Roger Hightower WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT 1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD Mesa, AZ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 14:32:15 -0500 From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Heaters Hi Terry, Excuse my math, but when did 12 square inches (1X12) become a square foot (12X12)? Regards, Joy "> The recommended fresh air opening for a catalytic heater is one square foot. > That translates into an opening one inch wide by 12 inches long. Crack two > roof vents or windows and that'll more than do the trick." ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 14:31:31 -0600 From: "Keith and Jean Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] Belly pan repair Jim, On our Argosy we had this done as part of a project to refinish the entire trailer. The shop drilled out enough of the pop rivets holding these panels (banana skins) enough to get behind and work out the dents with hammer and dolly. They used filler for final smoothing and shaping, primed with an etching primer and finished with single stage (no clear coat) automobile paint. Looks good after 18 months. So the method seems to work. I am a do-it-yourselfer (stripped the original finish off of the trailer myself and have done Bondo type of work on cars over the years) but let the shop do this one. They were all set up to remove a number of other small dents in the course of priming the trailer and I had them do these skins as well. After watching some of the work I'm glad I did. Gosh, but they are good at that sort of thing. They did in a couple of hours what would have been a full day or two for me. But if you are inclined to do it yourself, I saw nothing especially tough about what they did. The big differences from what I would have done was a better job of pre-working the dents, use of air powered sanders and frequent (very frequent) changes of the sand paper through ever finer grades. Keith W. '74 Argosy 22 Moline, Illinois - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jim Stewart Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 7:42 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [VACList] Belly pan repair Has anyone had experience repairing dents in the visable,outer edges of the belly pan with automotive body fill and paint? I've seen this repair method used very successfully, but don't know how difficult it is. (i.e. should it be left to a body shop)? Jim '61 Bambi '63 sob - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 12:45:58 -0800 From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Heaters > Hi Terry, > > Excuse my math, but when did 12 square inches (1X12) become a square foot > (12X12)? > > Regards, Joy > > "> The recommended fresh air opening for a catalytic heater is one square > foot. > > That translates into an opening one inch wide by 12 inches long. Crack two > > roof vents or windows and that'll more than do the trick." Hi Guys: Always glad to butt in, let me offer the following from the Olympian Manual: "The heater consumes air from the room in which it is installed. To assure complete combustion, an adequate fresh air supply to the room is necessary. It is good practice to have at least two openings, one high and one low. The room must have at least one square inch of FREE AIR opening per 1,000 Btu/hr. input to the heater with rooms of average tightness. If the room is tightly sealed or insulated so that natural infiltration is low, additional ventilation is required. At least 7 square inches are recommended for Model 6100." The 6100 is equivalent to the Wave 6 (~6000 Btu/hr) The opening under my refrigerator exceeds the input requirement. I also leave at least one ceiling vent cracked. Hasn't affected me adversely yet except for an occasional tic <grin>. Later, GQ '67 Safari ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:44:36 -0500 From: "W.E.Spinney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] converter and teflon tape on propane lines Want to thank all and especially Joy for your input on buying a new converter. We went to Camping World outside Tampa, and they sent us down I-4 to Bates RV Exchange who are airstream dealers. They gave us an appointment to assess the cost of straightening out the wiring, and installing a new converter. They have airstream trained technicians and did a fine job. I read a warning about using teflon tape on propane lines in the discussion, and when we had a new valve installed on a propane tank questioned the use of teflon tape. The man said that was the recommended installation. Did I misunderstand? Thanks again for all the help. Ruth 1971 Safari ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 18:59:39 -0500 From: Lexxy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] aluminum polish/tiles I have read a lot about different aluminum polish but what do you folks think is the best way to clean the interior aluminum around the windows that has all that speckled crudy stuff on it? I have a bucket of stuff from Walmart but one metal cleaner is about as lousy as the other and only elbow grease works with a bunch of steel wool and patience and cussing and Tylanol. Are there any secrets? Can I use any attachments to a drill or Dremel tool? Also...did they ever put down asbestos tiles on the floor of airstream trailers? We pulled up some suspicious looking brittle, fiberous ones. Lexxy [Those access doors are locked on real tight now!!!] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 19:14:26 -0500 From: Matt Worner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] converter and teflon tape on propane lines "W.E.Spinney" wrote: > <snip> I read a warning about using teflon tape on propane lines in > the discussion, and when we had a new valve installed on a propane tank > questioned the use of teflon tape. The man said that was the recommended > installation. Did I misunderstand? <snip> Nope, the guy who did your gas line has been mis-informed or ill trained. Matt > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html - -- Pam, Matt and Darrell Worner WBCCI, VAC, WNJU & WDCU #4971 1975 31' Sovereign (The Tinsel Tubesteak) 1976 24' Argosy rear door (The Bun Metallica) 1957 16' Bubble (The Tin 'Tater Tot) 2000 F-350 PSD Hensley Arrow ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:23:46 -0700 From: "Maxwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] aluminum polish/tiles Lexxy wrote: >Also...did they ever put down asbestos tiles on the floor of airstream >trailers? We pulled up some suspicious looking brittle, fiberous ones. > > > Yep! if they are 9"x9" they are asbestos... - -- Shari Davis '64 GlobeTrotter WBCCI #1824, VAC www.InsideOut-Design.net/Maxwell ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:28:35 -0800 From: "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] aluminum polish/tiles Cleaning aluminum inside should be a little easier than the outside, but you may want to save the Nuvite/Rolite/Vegemite/whateverite for the exterior. I like 'Cameo Aluminum and Stainless Steel Cleaner' powder, small plastic shaker bottle like Comet cleanser... another nifty trick i learned years ago from Heloise was to make up a solution of 'cream of tartar' (in your spice rack) in hot water... For the very stubborn stuff, the 'Aluminum Jelly' version of 'Naval Jelly' really attacks aluminum oxide very aggressively... brush on, wait awhile and wash it off. Tuna - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lexxy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 3:59 PM Subject: RE: [VACList] aluminum polish/tiles > I have read a lot about different aluminum polish but what do you folks > think is the best way to clean the interior aluminum around the windows > that has all that speckled crudy stuff on it? > > I have a bucket of stuff from Walmart but one metal cleaner is about as > lousy as the other and only elbow grease works with a bunch of steel > wool and patience and cussing and Tylanol. > > Are there any secrets? Can I use any attachments to a drill or Dremel > tool? > > Also...did they ever put down asbestos tiles on the floor of airstream > trailers? We pulled up some suspicious looking brittle, fiberous ones. > > Lexxy [Those access doors are locked on real tight now!!!] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 20:28:57 -0500 From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #17 Wayne, sounds like a salvage unit to me. Jim Greene ' 68 Tradewind - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne A. Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 14:54 Subject: [VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #17 > Hi Gang, > > Recievd this distress email! > Looks like a quick sale in Florida! > > Wayne A. Moore (WAM) > 3rd Vice President & > Membership Chairman > Vintage Airstream Club > VAC/WBCCI 15116 > ---------------------------- > ----------------------------- > > > Must leave RV Park in Palm Harbor, Florida (1/2 hour north of > Tampa)......rezoning will close the park. > > Purchased 1974 Airstream on site 7 years ago, it had not been moved for many > years before that, would need new tires to move. > > Condition- inside -good > Original base cabinets and lounge area have been removed, but upper cabinets > and control panel, bathroom sink still intact and new tile shower. > > There is a new stove & refrigerator within the last two years, however the > heating system is not in place and the air conditioning has been closed off. > > Condition-exterior-fair > Right front curved window is still in place, however the outer glass in > crackled allowing moisture to cottect between the two pieces of glass. > > Price-best offer > > respond to- [EMAIL PROTECTED] > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 18:42:45 -0700 From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] converter and teflon tape on propane lines There is a special Teflon tape available for gas fittings. I believe it is yellow in color. It's a little thicker than the white stuff you get in a hardware store. Roger Roger Hightower WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT 1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD Mesa, AZ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:35:29 -0500 From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] converter and teflon tape on propane lines Ruth, You might use Teflon tape on pipe threads, but never on flare fittings. Many/most of the fittings in an RV are flare-type, but you'll run into the occassional pipe thread. Those always require some sort of sealant. <<Jim>> W.E.Spinney wrote: > Want to thank all and especially Joy for your input on buying a new > converter. We went to Camping World outside Tampa, and they sent us down > I-4 to Bates RV Exchange who are airstream dealers. They gave us an > appointment to assess the cost of straightening out the wiring, and > installing a new converter. They have airstream trained technicians and did > a fine job. I read a warning about using teflon tape on propane lines in > the discussion, and when we had a new valve installed on a propane tank > questioned the use of teflon tape. The man said that was the recommended > installation. Did I misunderstand? Thanks again for all the help. Ruth > 1971 Safari > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > - -- <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:37:42 -0500 From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Napier stripper Roger, I can't answer about the Napier stripper coverage but that seems excessive to me. You can do a search on Napier stripper, get the phone number for Environmental Technologies and call their customer service people. Ask for the aircraft section which is the division that handles the stripper product. I would think it wouldn't take more than half that amount for a 31' Airstream. Jim Greene ' 68 Tradewind - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 14:37 Subject: [VACList] Napier stripper > I don't think this has been addressed yet. What kind of coverage do you get > with the stripper? I mean how much did you use? Someone told me it would > take 8 gallons to do my 31' Sovereign, or nearly $400 in stripper. > > A curious mind wants to know. Have to come up with a winter project. > > Roger > > Roger Hightower > WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT > 1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD > Mesa, AZ > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:02:15 -0600 From: "JRKleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] aluminum polish/tiles Lexxy, If you really want to make your windows look sexxy, do what you alluded to, that is a FINE brass brush on a drill. I did it and it looks like new. The Dremel with a small brass or carbon wire brush will touch up the corners where the big wheel won't reach. Mine came out great. It takes a little time but far better results than any polish without buffing. Randy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:36:27 -0500 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] Napier stripper I haven't finished mine yet, but at the the rate it's been going, I estimate it's going to take less than 3 gallons for my 22' Safari. 'Course, I didn't have to do a whole big side panel, thanks to the forklift accident! It's an ill wind, as they say... I find that the return on the higher price of the Napier comes not in greater coverage than conventional stripper (it seems about the same), but in labor/time savings and in minimizing toxicity. Amanda - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:38:53 -0500 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] Napier stripper I haven't finished mine yet, but at the the rate it's been going, I estimate it's going to take less than 3 gallons for my 22' Safari. 'Course, I didn't have to do a whole big side panel, thanks to the forklift accident! It's an ill wind, as they say... I find that the return on the higher price of the Napier comes not in greater coverage than conventional stripper (about 1/2 cup of either covers approx. 3' square), but in labor/time savings and in minimizing toxicity. Amanda - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 20:27:00 -0800 From: Jeffrey Engle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Wood bending... In our 77 Sovereign, center bath, there is a curtain valence that is vinyl covered metal. ya with me? In the living room area, two straight sections. One on the drivers side of the coach and one on the passenger side over the single window beside the door. Still with me? A few months ago, I got the nifty Idea to cover the vinyl part with an 1/8th inch thick piece of oak and attach with small rivets. (if you need pictures, I can get you some) The end product looks really nice and goes well with all the other oak goodies in the front room area. Now that i've got you somewhat caught-up, here's the problem at hand. I would like to do the same thing in the bedroom but, as you already know, the "Valence" wraps around the tail causing a rather difficult problem. HOW to bend two pieces of 1/8th inch thick x 4ft. 5in. long x 2 5/8 in. wide oak strips to match the "curve" without breaking them in the process! any feedback is appreciated. Jeff & Daile With dreams of the road... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:11:33 -0800 From: "Jim W" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Wood bending... Hi Jeff, I don't have any real answer, but I am interested. Violin makers used a combination of moisture and heated irons to bend thin strips of wood. I am not sure oak is so forgiving. I would like to know too. Possibly a heat gun and a spray bottle. Don't know, just a thought. JimW - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeffrey Engle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Vintage Airstream Club" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 8:27 PM Subject: [VACList] Wood bending... > In our 77 Sovereign, center bath, there is a curtain valence that is > vinyl covered metal. > ya with me? In the living room area, two straight sections. One on the > drivers side of the coach and one on the passenger side over the single > window beside the door. Still with me? > A few months ago, I got the nifty Idea to cover the vinyl part with > an 1/8th inch thick piece of oak and attach with small rivets. (if you > need pictures, I can get you some) The end product looks really nice and > goes well with all the other oak goodies in the front room area. Now > that i've got you somewhat caught-up, here's the problem at hand. > I would like to do the same thing in the bedroom but, as you > already know, the "Valence" wraps around the tail causing a rather > difficult problem. HOW to bend two pieces of 1/8th inch thick x 4ft. > 5in. long x 2 5/8 in. wide oak strips to match the "curve" without > breaking them in the process! any feedback is appreciated. > Jeff & Daile > With dreams of the road... > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:25:20 -0700 From: "Maxwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Wood bending... Jeffrey Engle wrote: > HOW to bend two pieces of 1/8th inch thick x 4ft. 5in. long x 2 5/8 > in. wide oak strips to match the "curve" without breaking them in the > process! any feedback is appreciated. In furniture-making, steam is often used to bend wood... - -- Shari Davis '64 GlobeTrotter WBCCI #1824, VAC www.InsideOut-Design.net/Maxwell ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:11:14 -0800 From: "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Wood bending... vertical cuts on the hidden side of the valence piece rendering it flexible... or you could use oak veneer glued onto the original piece. the steam process involves a 'form' over which the heated piece is bent, and held in position until it 'sets'. usually the piece is bent further during forming since it will have a tendency to spring back a little when it dries/cools. Tuna ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 07:34:51 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] Wood bending... Wrap in towls or other asorbent cloth and pore on boling water in the water add 1 cup of fabric softner per gal. have eavery thinh ready and make the bend while the wood is still hot. Jim Smith ------------------------------ End of VACList Digest V3 #19 **************************** When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
