VACList Digest       Tuesday, December 10 2002       Volume 03 : Number 038



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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VACList] 63 Bambi brakes
Re: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes
[VACList] Adhesive removal
[VACList] Rear Bath medicine cabinet
Re: [VACList] White Laminate Tambour Alternatives
Re: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes
Re: [VACList] Rear Bath medicine cabinet
Re: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes
Re: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes
RE: [VACList] adhesive removal
Re: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes
RE: [VACList] Re: Travelall Tow Vehicle
[VACList] Adhesive and decal removal
Re: [VACList] adhesive removal

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 09:12:29 -0700
From: "RD Ulansky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes

Hi all,
We have just entered the world of Airstreams, we purchased a 63 Bambi and 
our first job is to get the brakes working.  Any ideas as to what kind of 
controller I will need and I could use any helpful hints.
Thanks ,
Ron & Dee





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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:11:46 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes

You better go get your aluminum fewer vaccination, because being around old
Airstreams is catching. First its the brakes, then you have this compelling
desire to polish it and restore it. Your neighbors and friends will think
you are crazy and don't be surprised if one or two of them catch aluminum as
well. But the prognosis it  usually pretty good, over time you will have a
great classic Airstream trailer and meet a bunch of great people.

You can count on those on the VAC list to provide excellent advice and help
and you can expect to receive a number of informed responses to your brake
question.

Good luck.

Don Hardman
1976 Sovereign

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "RD Ulansky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 10:12 AM
Subject: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes


> Hi all,
> We have just entered the world of Airstreams, we purchased a 63 Bambi and
> our first job is to get the brakes working.  Any ideas as to what kind of
> controller I will need and I could use any helpful hints.
> Thanks ,
> Ron & Dee
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:23:31 -0800
From: "Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] Adhesive removal

3 M makes a decal and adhesive remover for automobile body shops.

You can get it at most any Automotive Body Shop Supplier.  Check the Yellow
Pages.

This stuff is designed to remove the wood grain (a la old station wagon)
decals, stuck on pin stripes etc..

Oliver Filippi

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:30:35 -0800
From: "Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] Rear Bath medicine cabinet

HELP!!

The medicine cabinet above the rear window of my rear bath,'76 Tradewind has
fallen down.

Apparently it was fastened with sheet metal screws to the molded plastic
upper rear inside panel.  Did not catch any ribs!  The plastic is now
cracked and some pieces broken out.  But I cannot find any ribs behind it.

Any thoughts on how to reattach the medicine cabinet (and the rear window
shade which is atttached to the bottom of the cabinet)?

Thank you for your help.

Sincerely,

Oliver Filippi

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 15:14:35 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] White Laminate Tambour Alternatives

on 12/06/02 7:26 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> 3.  Has anyone run across a vendor who offers laminate tambours that might
> be more consistent with the original material?

Hi Kevin,

FIRST - Theoretically, any Airstream dealer can order them from the factory.
BUT, you and I both know that doesn't always occur, plus when I was at Oasis
RV in Tucson (Airstream dealer), I learned their tambour inventory varied by
the batch. Granted, there was a minor difference and probably not
discernible to the average viewer, but I saw a difference.

When I realized the most noticeable difference was where the fabric could be
seen between the slats, I used spray wax and Voila` --- the difference was
no more. The spray darkened the fabric just enough to make it match the
other tambour in our Airstream.

Why do I mention this? If you find tambour that is almost a match, keep in
mind there may be ways to modify it to match perfectly.

SECOND - When I replaced the large center piece of tambour under our sink, I
salvaged it by cutting off the broken, cracked and chipped edges. I then
used that piece (it looked very similar to the new stock) when I replaced a
SMALLER section and again Voila` --- it looks like new. Now is three years
later and the section with my salvaged piece still looks like it belongs
there (with no chips, cracks, bulges or buggered edges).

Why do I mention this? Your original laminate is worth something. For
example, it can be cut up into pieces and sent to vendors for comparison
with what they are selling (before you buy it and see for yourself that the
match is poor).  Even if you temporarily transition to a color hue that's
not exactly what you want (so you have a functional section of tambour),
those pieces can still be sent out (or carried in your truck) for
comparision each time you learn about another out-of-state lead or stumble
onto another source (an old Argosy behind a farmer's barn).

Kevin, dollars to donuts you've already asked Florence (at Fogdalls) if she
can get the tambour for you and she said, "no." BUT - you've been around
long enough to know you need to keep asking until you find someone who says,
"yes." 

If it were me asking your specialized question, I'd start chasing down old
time parts guys who were already experienced problem solvers during 1978.
One of those guys is Jay at Oasis RV.  There are others. Charlie Burke may
be one of them although I've never met him. The material you want is laying
on a shelf somewhere just gathering dust.

THIRD - This idea is one I know you are already doing. Keep looking for
another 1978 Argosy Minuet (in any condition) so you'll have your own
personal parts supply shed on wheels. Haunt the classifieds, check the junk
yards, look behind fences when you see a silhouette, take the scavengering
mindset to new heights.  You are a very observant person. If anyone can find
the needle in the haystack, I'd place odds on you.

Good luck, 

Terry

PS -  We're at the St. Lucie Locks COE campground in Stuart, FL with a full
frontal view of the river traffic going into and coming out of the Lock.
There are eight campsites and a dozen yacht berths. All are full (heavy rain
is forecast for the next two days).  The three tent sites are vacant.
There's a large covered pavilion for everyone's use. It's fun visiting with
families who travel by yacht.  They are folks we would not ordinarily meet.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 15:43:01 -0500
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes

Get a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller. Don't settle for other Tekonsha
models.

                                                       <<Jim>>

                       <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                               <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                            <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>

- -----Original Message-----
From: RD Ulansky <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, December 09, 2002 3:31 PM
Subject: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes


>Hi all,
>We have just entered the world of Airstreams, we purchased a 63 Bambi and
>our first job is to get the brakes working.  Any ideas as to what kind of
>controller I will need and I could use any helpful hints.
>Thanks ,
>Ron & Dee
>
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:30:52 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [VACList] Rear Bath medicine cabinet

Iwould suggest that you use the shortest mollys that you cand findbut first 
you must repair the cracks in the glassDrill asmallhole at the end of each 
crack to stop further cracking. Use a fiberglass repair kit to reinforce the 
glass(the end caps were laied up with a chopper gun with no cloth or roving 
reinforcement the cheepest and crappiest way to do the job)than after the 
glass is repaired use the mollys .That is the way I did it and job has heald 
up ok. Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 15:49:34 -0600
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes

Greetings Ron and Dee!

There are many options out there, and the most popular seems to be the
Tekonsha Prodigy.  While I use a Tekonsha Voyager (fewer features/less
costly than Prodigy) on my Suburban and it is totally acceptable - - my
preference is for the Hayes-Lemmerz Micro Control HD plus controller - - it
is also an inertia (pendulum type controller), but has the option of a
remote control that compensates for those installations where the controller
may be in a difficult to reach position during an emergency - - the remote
button is on a coiled cable that can be draped over the shift lever or kept
on the seat next to the driver for quick, easy access in an emergency
situation.  I have the Hayes-Lemmerz controller on both my Cadillac and
Dodge tow vehicles, and am totally thrilled with the latest version that I
have on my Cadillac as well as the older model on my Dodge - - the only
reason that I don't have one on my Suburban is that my Airstream dealer only
stocks the Tekonsha products and he is the one who set up my Suburban.

The Hayes-Lemmer Micro Control HD plus can be found at:

http://www.hayes-lemmerz.com/products/html/micro_control.html

Tekonsha controls can be found at:

http://www.tekonsha.com/tekcat/tekcat.html

Good luck with your decision.

Kevin

Kevin Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible
(Towcar-In-Training)

> Hi all,
> We have just entered the world of Airstreams, we purchased a 63 Bambi and
> our first job is to get the brakes working.  Any ideas as to what kind of
> controller I will need and I could use any helpful hints.
> Thanks ,
> Ron & Dee

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 16:56:44 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes

I was able to mount my Hayes-Lemmerz Micro Control HD Plus controller so
I can reach the button while holding on to the steering wheel in my '98
F-150 (manual transmission on the floor). I had to make custom bracket
parts (drilled no holes cut no slots in the truck). I bought the remote
button but haven't needed it. I like the set up of the Micro Control
(though you have to do a reset after its without power or it won't
work).

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 18:49:35 -0500
From: Lexxy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [VACList] adhesive removal

I got some real old ones off with spray gasket remover from an auto
parts store.  That stuff is great for cleaning all kinds off stuff but
be careful...it's strong.  It was the only thing that cut thru some
ancient tape that nothing would budge including paint remover.  M1
remover is also good at getting off adhesives...got it at Home Depot.

Lexxy


~ I'm struggling to remove some old decals from aluminum 
~ exterior and have had no luck so far with heat, Gobegone, 
~ tar& bug remover, paint thinner or alcohol. The decals just 
~ don't want to come off. They seem to be super adhesive. I 
~ even tried to remove them with the buffer.
~ 
~ Any suggestions?
~ 
~ Chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 17:48:39 -0800
From: "Jim W" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes

Hi Ron & Dee,

  I did a lot of research on that a month ago, I'm starting out just like
you.  I have been to many RV, Airstreams, and trucking sites.  They
generally
mention two choices, the Jorden Ultima, or the Tekonsha Prodigy.

  The Jordon has a wire that hooks to the brake pedal, and is popular 'cause
when you step on your brakes, they are applied in proportion to how far you
push the pedal down.  It has a readout that measures the current instead of
the voltage as in the Prodigy.  This is supposedly useful for
troubleshooting,  Many compare the Ultima to the feel of old controllers
that
hooked into the hydraulic brake lines of the vehicle.  The main reason you
can not do this nowadays seems to be antilocking brakes.  That is the little
I remember.  The Prodigy seems popular because it "works", unlike earlier
pendulum models that needed adjusting constantly.  I actually talked with
Tekonsha tech support about the mechanism.  They are only trained to say it
is some guided missile thingy technology, and it stops there.  You can still
think of it as a tiny pendulum that senses deceleration and tells your
brakes how hard to apply.

  Many like the Jordon for its simplicity.

  These are things I have read on the internet.  I have no real experience.
I did choose the Prodigy however.  I need to buy one soon.

  Winter is here now, and no hurry 'till spring.  There is a lot to learn
isn't there?  :)

Jim


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "RD Ulansky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 8:12 AM
Subject: [VACList] 63 Bambi brakes


> Hi all,
> We have just entered the world of Airstreams, we purchased a 63 Bambi and
> our first job is to get the brakes working.  Any ideas as to what kind of
> controller I will need and I could use any helpful hints.
> Thanks ,
> Ron & Dee
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 20:34:33 -0500
From: "Edward Emerick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [VACList] Re: Travelall Tow Vehicle

Rik,
I still have access to the 62 full sleeper as well, but I believe the
last time it saw a highway was in 81. I'm always open to talking about a
great truck, can you drop me a note off line?
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Rik
& Susan Beeson
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 4:09 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [VACList] Re: Travelall Tow Vehicle

Hey Ed,

If you ever get nostalgic for another '62 International Emeryville full 
sleeper cab w/Cummins, I have one resting peacefully in my "back 40" 
among the Airstreams. I even pulled an Airstream 31' trailer to LA and 
back for the Christmas holidays with it one year, so it comes with a 
"custom" Airstream hitch. Easy monthly payments...

Best regards, and Merry Christmas to all,

Rik

P.S. I know we're not supposed to change the title of the thread, but I 
couldn't stand to look at that one any longer. Sorry.

Edward Emerick wrote:

>Hello,
>
> And most
>of all I learned how to drive a truck in a 62 International Emeryville,
>cab over with a 220 and a 10 speed at my dad's knee. That was the best
>time of my life... 
>





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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 22:21:47 -0600
From: "Brian Jenkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] Adhesive and decal removal

Hello all,

A method I've used for removal of adhesive, decals, stickers, etc. when 
nothing else will work is paint remover. Use the thick stuff, and keep the 
area wet for a while, and it will lift the plastic and remove the adhesive 
almost every time. Obviously, this doesn't work without disturbing clear 
coat, but it is less destructive than sanding. With my '50's trailers, clear 
coat isn't an issue.

Also, thanks to everyone for the info on the fasteners that hold my fridge 
access door on. I think that they are Southco style.

Brian Jenkins
#7819 WBCCI, VAC





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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 23:32:59 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] adhesive removal

one more: many adhesives fall appart with oil. Try a little veg oil.

Daisy

Chris Herring wrote:
> Hello VAC members,
> 
> I'm struggling to remove some old decals from aluminum exterior and have had
> no luck so far with heat, Gobegone, tar& bug remover, paint thinner or
> alcohol. The decals just don't want to come off. They seem to be super
> adhesive. I even tried to remove them with the buffer.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Chris
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> 

------------------------------

End of VACList Digest V3 #38
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