VACList Digest Thursday, February 27 2003 Volume 03 : Number 116
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html Topics in Today's Digest: Re: [VACList] sealing airstream windows [VACList] Greetings! RE: [VACList] Greetings! Re: [VACList] toilet replacement Re: [VACList] sealing airstream windows [VACList] Original 2 prong plug [none] [VACList] Re: Re: [VACList] toilet replacement Re: [VACList] Original 2 prong plug Re: [VACList] Original 2 prong plug [VACList] Need a banana plug Re: [VACList] Need a banana plug Re: [VACList] Need a banana plug Re: [VACList] Need a banana plug Re: [VACList] Original 2 prong plug Re: [VACList] Re: [VACList] Mobile America - Seattle Re: [VACList] bed slides 67 safari Re: [VACList] Need a banana plug ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 05:49:17 -0800 From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] sealing airstream windows Vulkem is used if you were to install the window. The little seams that occur around windows, vents and seams respond later to a sealant with the thinner properties of a Parbond or Sikaflex. Vulkem is also good for the big gaps , say in the wheelwell,, around bumpers, etc. It's prety much what the factory does too. Vulckem is a rather coarse sealant - much like putty tape. RJ On 2/26/03 12:00 AM, "schuetzen - RKBA!" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Tue, 25 Feb 2003 20:31:11 -0800, Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > >> I'd use Parbond at that location: > > I thought Vul??? was used for all window or other leaks other than where you > would use that putty tape stuff. > cheers > chas > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 10:38:42 -0500 From: "C B Rollins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Greetings! Hi- as a new list member I'm posting a short introduction. I'm Chris Rollins of South Amherst Massachusetts USofA, and my wife and I have purchased a 1962 Globetrotter which is currently resting in Georgia while I round up a suitable tow vehicle and/or arrange for someone to drag it north for us. The Airstream is basically original but will be recieving a 'sprucing up' once we have it here- replace ugly carpeting,repair worn surfaces,possibly polish et cetera. Hoping to have it presentable in time for the Burlington VT hoedown, and then attend a variety of music fests and such over the summer, with a possible jaunt to the Northwest in August.Happy Trails! CB Rollins _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 10:46:20 -0500 From: "Vasquez, David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [VACList] Greetings! Greeting Chris: In behalf of myself and VAC.....welcome to the club. Hope you can join us at the Internationals. Good luck with your new AS. David Vasquez / Janis Cresci 1973 Sovereign / 1971 Caddy WBCCI / VAC - -----Original Message----- From: C B Rollins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 10:39 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [VACList] Greetings! _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 10:30:23 -0600 From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] toilet replacement On Tue, 25 Feb 2003 20:39:51 -0800, Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Without a doubt, this is the best low cost replacement toilet. >Crazy thing even looks much like the original, and is made of porcelain too. yes but my wife makes no bones about wanting a taller toilet mostly because she feels "cramped in" by that small cabinet towards the front wall of the bathroom (rear bath - 76 Sovereign). where is the BEST discount pricing available to ONLINE purchasing for vulkem, toilets, Tekonsha, etc?? thanks chas ... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 10:40:31 -0600 From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] sealing airstream windows On Wed, 26 Feb 2003 05:49:17 -0800, Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Vulkem is used if you were to install the window. The little seams that >occur around windows, vents and seams respond later to a sealant with the >thinner properties of a Parbond or Sikaflex. Vulkem is also good for the >big gaps , say in the wheelwell,, around bumpers, etc. It's prety much what >the factory does too. Vulckem is a rather coarse sealant - much like putty >tape. >RJ ahhhh! it was not used when I was mechanicing on AS in the 70s while I was working on my doctorate. I was told I thought that vulkem was a wicking or capillary sealant. Parabond is not that hard to find? thanks chas ... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 11:54:41 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [VACList] Original 2 prong plug I have the original 2 prong plug on our '55 Sovereign. What do I need to do to make it safe? Can I put an inline GFI on the cord until it can be upgraded? What needs to be done to upgrade the cord to a grounded cord? We have the original screw-in glass fuses throughout the trailer. I don't want to encounter a "hot shell" like I read about in the latest Vintage Advantage (which is a great issue, very nicely put together!) I want to make it safe. Any suggestions or experience first hand? Thanks in Advance! Jason Jablonski 1955 Sovereign ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 10:22:35 -0700 From: "RD Ulansky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [none] hi all, I have a 63 bambi, and the previous owner gutted out the trailer and installed a new floor 3/4 plywood. He just glued (not very well) the plywood to the steel frame with what looks like construction adhesive. I pulled up one sheet (very easily). The trailer shell was not fastened to the floor, I would think it should be? So my question is should the floor be mechanicaly fastened to the steel frames and then the trailer shell fastened to the floor? Would this entail removing the shell from the frame? I would appreciate any info. Thanks Ron _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 13:06:04 -0500 From: "Phil Renner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Re: Ron Whoa boy! Is the floor at least up into the channel on all sides? I'm sure the floor needs to be securely fastened to the frame for structural rigidity. If he cut the floor well, and it is up into the channel all around, you can add the bolts and screws necessary. But first take a good look all around and see if there are any fasteners of any kind in the channel (around the edges). Some time ago one of the readers of this board sent me an excellant hand drawn diagram of what the floor/channel fastening system looks like. I'll send it to you directly. Phil Renner 63 Overlander From: "RD Ulansky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > hi all, > I have a 63 bambi, and the previous owner gutted out the trailer and > installed a new floor 3/4 plywood. He just glued (not very well) the > plywood to the steel frame with what looks like construction adhesive. I > pulled up one sheet (very easily). The trailer shell was not fastened to > the floor, I would think it should be? > > So my question is should the floor be mechanicaly fastened to the steel > frames and then the trailer shell fastened to the floor? Would this entail > removing the shell from the frame? > > I would appreciate any info. > Thanks Ron ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 12:50:45 -0600 From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] toilet replacement Vulkem 116 is often stocked at Home Depot and Lowe's for better prices than I've seen on line. Typically in Iowa under $4 a tube. Gerald J. - -- Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer. Reproduction by permission only. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 12:50:32 -0600 From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Original 2 prong plug A grounded cord has the green conductor connected to the frame and shell of the trailer. Also to the main fuse box enclosure. The neutral circuit is not connected to the frame or ground in the trailer. Only in the pedestal feeding the trailer. A gfi in the cord may work but it may not allow reversed polarity or the leakage present in old wiring. Gerald J. - -- Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer. Reproduction by permission only. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 16:28:34 -0500 From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Original 2 prong plug If you have a built in polarity light at the fuse/breaker box get it out of there, I hear that they are the usual cause of hot shells. Purchase a grounded receptacle for the trailer and a grounded power cord. Install as previously recomended and you should be OK. I would also purchase a polatiry/ground checker and use it to check the outlet before you plug in. I installed a GFI outlet first in line for each of the 2 circuits my trailer has. It works well, and lead me to discover a Camping World technitian's faulty wiring of the nearly new furnace! Scott '60 Overlander - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 11:54 AM Subject: [VACList] Original 2 prong plug > I have the original 2 prong plug on our '55 Sovereign. What do I need to do to make it safe? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 16:19:04 -0600 From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Need a banana plug Does anyone make a banana which is round pin male on one end and female flat pin on the other to go between the unbilical and my Van's plug in?? thanks chas ... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 15:16:52 -0700 From: "Mike Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Need a banana plug Sure, hit your local hardware store up. - ----- Original Message ----- From: "schuetzen - RKBA!" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 3:19 PM Subject: [VACList] Need a banana plug > > Does anyone make a banana which is round pin male on one end and female flat pin > on the other to go between the unbilical and my Van's plug in?? > > thanks > chas > > > > ... > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 15:39:56 -0700 From: "Mike Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Need a banana plug You might try a local parts house or a truck or trailer dealer also. - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 3:16 PM Subject: Re: [VACList] Need a banana plug > Sure, hit your local hardware store up. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "schuetzen - RKBA!" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 3:19 PM > Subject: [VACList] Need a banana plug > > > > > > Does anyone make a banana which is round pin male on one end and female > flat pin > > on the other to go between the unbilical and my Van's plug in?? > > > > thanks > > chas > > > > > > > > ... > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 17:13:40 -0600 From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Need a banana plug The early Airstream with round pins in the plug was made before there was any standard for the connections. Later airstreams with flat pins were wired differently than the present Bargeman standard adopted by the auto and RV industry. The best solution is to go to an RV store (or Walmart), buy a new connector with flat pins to fit the tow vehicle (comes with a sheet showing what function fits each pin), remove the old connector with round pins, determine the functions of the wires by experiment and electrical meter, then connect them to the new connector. Indeed, I found it faster to replace a corroded flat pin connector than to clean it. Apply silicone grease to the connections on both faces of the connector and it will resist corrosion for a much longer period of time. Use the silicone dielectric grease designed for modern ignition system connectors. Gerald J. - -- Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer. Reproduction by permission only. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 17:29:24 -0800 From: "JimW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Original 2 prong plug Jason, I have a 77 Argosy Minuet with an aluminum floor (two sheets of aluminum with a Styrofoam core). The idea of a hot shell scared me, and GFCI is the only thing I will plug into. It's a real tin can. I have a small hot tub from Sundance that we run off of 120V. It came with an extension cord with a built in GFCI to plug into a grounded (non GFCI) circuit. My experience with home wiring is that an ungrounded plug-in can be replaced with a GFCI (no ground wire) and still meet NEC code. Not recommended for freezers and such, a false trip can be a mess. I have the latest NEC code around somewhere on a CD. I'm still recovering from an IBM hard drive crash. I'm wondering what they have to say about travel trailers? I am certainly not qualified to interpret code, but having it to read helps in understanding the rules. Just my experience so far, I'm not even on the road yet, still waiting for spring. Make sure you are safe! :) Dr. G is a good hand at this electrical stuff. I never thought about reversed polarity on a ungrounded GFI circuit. Going to look into that. Jim - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 8:54 AM Subject: [VACList] Original 2 prong plug > I have the original 2 prong plug on our '55 Sovereign. What do I need to do to make it safe? Can I put an inline GFI on the cord until it can be upgraded? What needs to be done to upgrade the cord to a grounded cord? We have the original screw-in glass fuses throughout the trailer. I don't want to encounter a "hot shell" like I read about in the latest Vintage Advantage (which is a great issue, very nicely put together!) I want to make it safe. Any suggestions or experience first hand? > > Thanks in Advance! > > Jason Jablonski > 1955 Sovereign > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 17:34:31 -0700 From: "Earl Peck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Re: - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Renner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 11:06 AM Subject: [VACList] Re: > > > > Some time ago one of the readers of this board sent me an excellant hand > drawn diagram of what the floor/channel fastening system looks like. I'll > send it to you directly. > > Phil Renner > 63 Overlander > > > From: "RD Ulansky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > Hi Phil, If I could get a copy of the floor construction method I would sure apreciate it too. Would let me know what I may have to look forward to. Earl Peck, WBCCI 1965 65 Overlander ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 18:44:35 -0800 From: "Richard McFarland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Mobile America - Seattle Hi - If you receive television broadcast by KCTS Channel 9 (PBS - Seattle, Washington) I just received their showtime guide for March and "Mobile America" (the History of the RV in America - produced by KCET in Los Angeles) is listed on Sunday, March 2nd at 6:30pm. RL McFarland ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 22:14:12 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] bed slides 67 safari thanks a lot for the info MARK 67 safari ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 01:17:48 -0600 From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Need a banana plug On Wed, 26 Feb 2003 15:39:56 -0700, "Mike Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >You might try a local parts house or a truck or trailer dealer also. I wonder if Tekonsha or other similar company makes one chas ... ------------------------------ End of VACList Digest V3 #116 ***************************** When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
