VACList Digest Friday, March 14 2003 Volume 03 : Number 131
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html Topics in Today's Digest: Re: [VACList] Running Propane lines. Re: [VACList] Leveling jacks. Re: [VACList] New Tires and Wheels [VACList] Aluminum Antenna Hole Covers [VACList] Mice in the Airstream [VACList] Help Re: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream Re: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream Re: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream Re: [VACList] Help Re: [VACList] cork flooring Re: [VACList] Help Re: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream Re: [VACList] LED inside - over the door Re: [VACList] pex Re: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream Re: [VACList] LED inside - over the door Re: [VACList] Help [VACList] Leveling Jacks. [VACList] Power wrench for jacks? (was Leveling Jacks.) Re: [VACList] Power wrench for jacks? (was Leveling Jacks.) [VACList] 12-volt woes [VACList] 110VAC or 12VDC? Re: [VACList] Power wrench for jacks? (was Leveling Jacks.) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 08:55:28 -0500 From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Running Propane lines. Lee, I'd sure like to know the basis for your advisors telling you that copper is unsuitable for natural gas. Those flex lines that are used to connect household appliances are copper. I wouldn't use them in a trailer because I suspect that the vibration over time would cause them to break. Either the soapy water or pressure drop test will work fine. If you use the latter, be certain that the stove pilot light is turned off, or it'll bleed down the pressure, simulating a leak. Don't use a match to check for leaks! (yeah, I know that "everyone knows better", but there are always a few that don't) <<Jim>> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> - -----Original Message----- From: Lee Pierce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Thursday, March 13, 2003 12:12 AM Subject: [VACList] Running Propane lines. >[ Note: This mail was converted from HTML to text by majordomo. > Formatting might be poor. ] > >After being told that copper lines were incompatable with natural gas > by air conditioner installers and a couple of plummers I asked the > list about what to use. Most said use the copper any way. One person > mentioned looking for the "L" type copper I read the packaging on > the "L" type copper lines. It says it is for natural gas, so it looks > like the "experts" have no idea what they are talking about.I > purchased the copper lines, the flair fittings, and a flair making > tool and went to work. Thanks for the help, I will test soon. Is the > soapy water on the fittings a good enough test? Lee > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 09:14:52 -0500 From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Leveling jacks. To add to what kevin said, these are stabilizing jacks, not leveling jacks. A stabilizing jack is to keep the trailer from bouncing when you run for the pasta pot that is boiling over. Also as in " when the trailer's rockin', don't come knockin'". Airstream constuction doesn't permit leveling jacks like you see on the big motor homes. To get the trailer level side to side you need to put things under the down hill wheels, or else dig a hole for the uphill ones. You can use 1x6's or commercial gismos. Daisy ( it's snowing again @#$%^%^&&*&) Kevin D Allen wrote: > Greetings Lee! > > I can't give you a precise date on when the permanently installed > stabilizing jacks first became available. I have, however, had > experience with retrofits on my '64 Overlander. In 1995, I started with > a set of BAL scissors type stabilizing jacks permanently installed at > the rear corners (recommended by Camping World - West Chicago) - - big > mistake - - insufficient clearance and they drug on almost every > driveway incline and were quickly bent and were totally inoperable by > 2000 at which time the curbside unit was drug completely off of the > coach as I departed the driveway at my farm. > > I finally decided to go with the low-profile BAL stabilizers that > Airstream utilizes on the current models. I am not a do-it-yourselfer > so I had the service department at Ace Fogdall RV install a four corner > set on the Overlander. While I haven't had the opportunity to use them > yet - - the trailer is still receiving some service work - - they > certainly increase the ground clearance in fact they are only a little > (less than one inch) lower than the rear skid plates. I am confident > that they are going to be a fantastic addition, albeit expensive - - > nearly three-times the cost of the BAL scissor type. > > Kevin > > Kevin D. Allen > 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban > 1978 Argosy Minuet > 1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training) > WBCCI/VAC #6359 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lee > Pierce > Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 10:25 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [VACList] Leveling jacks. > > What year did they start putting the leveling jacks on trailers? Any > advice for adding them to my 26' 1967. Lee Pierce > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 10:47:39 -0600 From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] New Tires and Wheels That extra inch and a half of section width typically is what makes the modern wide tires hard to fit past the drum and studs up into the cramped vintage Airstream wheel well. Historically, most VAC tire replacements have taken more than one trip to the tire store because the first tire selected just wouldn't fit into the space available. Tire brands had to be selected to be narrower than the generic tire size to go on. You don't want to have to deflate the tire to go on and then have to inflate it on the side of the road when changing a flat. That can be the required procedure when the tire is a little fat. Gerald J. - -- Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer. Reproduction by permission only. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 11:02:04 -0600 From: "Brian Jenkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Aluminum Antenna Hole Covers Hello all, I thought I'd let the owners of '50's Airstreams on the list know that I've developed another product for our particular obsessions (I also do the repro Bargman door handles). For a long time, I pondered over what to do about the radio antenna holes on the front of my '56 and '57. I tried rubber plugs but that looked tacky, so I contracted with a machine shop to manufacture beautiful aluminum covers. They are lathed from 6061 aircraft aluminum. The diameter is 1-5/8" with a 9/16" stem that inserts into the existing hole. The mill finish matches unpolished Airstreams, and I can also have them polished to a mirror shine. Please contact me off-list for details. Thanks, Brian Jenkins (214) 535-1553 WBCCI #7819, VAC '56 Caravanner, '57 Overlander _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 09:20:15 -0800 From: David Pfeffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream Folks: I have a new one for you. About 2 years ago I bought a 1960 TW with the intent of restoring, unfortunately some mice had gained entry and set up shop. I cleaned the floors, and shelves (they went everywhere) with a mixture of bleach and Simple Green. I'm thinking about going as far as removing the interior to replace all the wood on which they left offerings. I'm obviously concerned about health issues, and exposing my family to potential disease. Has anyone had a similar experience, are there special cleaners out there other than bleach which will remove evidence (odours etc.) left by the mice, or should I resolve to remove and replace wood? Regards, David Pfeffer ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 13:24:25 -0500 From: "David Turner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Help Help!!! I have a 1973 Tradewinds that I can't get the 110 volt lights to work. The 10v recps and refg and roof a/c all work but the 110v lights don't. The lights will work on 12v when a battery charger is hooked up to the battery. What could be the problem. Thanks David [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 14:18:56 -0500 From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream Unless you live in the western and southwestern states where hanta virus is a problem, I wouldn't worry about disease. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's the fleas that will get you, so if in doubt, close up the trailer and set off a flea bomb, and then repeat after 6 days. Washing well is first step. Bleach whitens and disinfects, but ammonia (DO NOT EVER COMBINE THEM) works better on organic stuff ( persian rugs are washed with camel pee) Ammonia is good on odors too. Another better odor killer is tons of baking soda sprinkled everywhere, and then vaccumed or wiped up with a damp sponge. This is used by hazmat clean up teams to get rid of fumes. If you are really afraid about this, the place the rodents love the best is the insulation between the skins. folks have been known to pull all that out and replace it. Talk to a local health person about the medical risks before you despair. then see what you can do about the smell. Daisy (who hasn't yet lived in a house without a few rodents ) David Pfeffer wrote: > > > > Folks: > > I have a new one for you. About 2 years ago I bought a 1960 TW with the > intent of restoring, unfortunately some mice had gained entry and set up > shop. I cleaned the floors, and shelves (they went everywhere) with a > mixture of bleach and Simple Green. I'm thinking about going as far as > removing the interior to replace all the wood on which they left offerings. > I'm obviously concerned about health issues, and exposing my family to > potential disease. Has anyone had a similar experience, are there special > cleaners out there other than bleach which will remove evidence (odours > etc.) left by the mice, or should I resolve to remove and replace wood? > > Regards, > > David Pfeffer > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 11:50:48 -0800 From: "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream I had a similar problem some years ago with the '72 Overlander... it had been sitting in a vacant lot for years, with lots of access for field mice and such... i used bleach, and baking soda, and all sorts of cleansers, but never really eliminated the musty odor. More recently though, I read something on one of these lists about using an 'ozone generator' to kill off mold and odors in their old rv/trailer, and someone somewhere said that they're available for rental, although he'd borrowed one from a friend who manages a supermarket... apparently they use them in the back of the produce section. I'd definitely wear a good respirator (not just a 'surgical mask') when messing about with old rodent droppings. Tuna Reno, NV - ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Pfeffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 9:20 AM Subject: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream > > Folks: > > I have a new one for you. About 2 years ago I bought a 1960 TW with the > intent of restoring, unfortunately some mice had gained entry and set up > shop. I cleaned the floors, and shelves (they went everywhere) with a > mixture of bleach and Simple Green. I'm thinking about going as far as > removing the interior to replace all the wood on which they left offerings. > I'm obviously concerned about health issues, and exposing my family to > potential disease. Has anyone had a similar experience, are there special > cleaners out there other than bleach which will remove evidence (odours > etc.) left by the mice, or should I resolve to remove and replace wood? > > Regards, > > David Pfeffer ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 15:42:52 -0500 From: "Neal Warren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream If you set off a bug bomb, make SURE there are no sources of ignition anywhere in the trailer. One spark will scatter your Airstream over several counties. People have lost their houses with those things. Neal Warren 21146 '86 345 - ---------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 14:51:37 -0600 From: "jrlkleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Help David, Which 110v lights do you mean? All of your lights should be 12 volt. Randy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 13:45:28 -0500 From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] cork flooring Scott, there is a special tool for taking up floor tiles. It looks like a heavy metal handle hoe that has had the blade bent parallel to the handle and it works great at getting up the tiles. The good news is they can be rented at some Home Depot stores and maybe at other do it yourself rental places. It sells for about $25-30 if you buy one. I have the same color scheme in my Tradewind and didn't find any cork floor material in those colors either. If there are any gaps in the joints between the tiles, they may show through the cork which is only about .125 thick and somewhat plyable. I'd think you would need to take the old floor up if you are installing cork. I believe that is what Daisy did and her installation looks great. Jim Greene ' 68 Tradewind - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 11:48 Subject: [VACList] cork flooring > Another project is to cover over the old tile, some of which is badly curled > and needs to come up. Since little of the damaged tile is in the open I am > wondering if I can just fill the voids with something rather than pulling up > the whole floor (it really is stuck on good!). Any ideas? > > Also it sounds like cork is the way to go. Ideally I would like to find > something basically cream with some hints of turquoise to go with the > original colors of the trailer. Does anyone know of a manufacturer that > makes cork in this color? I have checked APC Cork, Granorte, and California > Cork to no avail. > > Scott > 1960 Overlander ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 13:14:21 -0500 (EST) From: Bobby Gill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Help David All your lights should be 12 Volt. Take a multi-meter and test the light outlets or just use a small tester to see if current is getting to them. You may have either a bad fuse on the converter or a bad conveter. Bobby - -------Original Message------- From: David Turner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Help!!! I have a 1973 Tradewinds that I can't get the 110 volt lights to work. The 10v recps and refg and roof a/c all work but the 110v lights don't. The lights will work on 12v when a battery charger is hooked up to the battery. What could be the problem. Thanks David [EMAIL PROTECTED] - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to <a target=_blank href="http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html";>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html</a> > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 13:18:26 -0500 (EST) From: Bobby Gill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream David Run a search for Healty Homes. Unfortunately I do not have the link readily available but you can find it easy enough on google. There you will find some info on what your describing. Bobby - -------Original Message------- From: David Pfeffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Has anyone had a similar experience, are there special cleaners out there other than bleach which will remove evidence (odours etc.) left by the mice, or should I resolve to remove and replace wood? Regards, David Pfeffer - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to <a target=_blank href="http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html";>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html</a> > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 13:41:24 -0500 (EST) From: Bobby Gill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] LED inside - over the door Terry I haven't done what you propose doing, but it looks feasable. I looked at the outside light on my trailer and I think you may be able to slide a coathanger or other fairly stiff wire thru the hole where the wires come out for the outside light and possibly touch the inner wall. If you can you may be able to drill a 1/4 inch hole on the inner wall directly in line with the outside light. Of course you want to be careful and not let the bit pull completely into the hole and possibly damage the wires. But once you have the hole you should be able to fish some 12 volt wire thru to the light and connect a small 1/4 inch 12V indicator light to it and just insert the new 12V indicator light into the hole. Either that or just replace the rocker style light switch with a lighted style rocker switch such as what is used with some off road lights or other auto accessory items. Just a thought Bobby - -------Original Message------- From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The problem is - I've become accustomed to this little bulb in our '89 Airstream and want one over the door in our '67 Airstream. Terry (03/10/03) '89 32' Airstream Excella '67 22' Airstream Safari - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to <a target=_blank href="http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html";>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html</a> > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 14:09:06 -0500 (EST) From: Bobby Gill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] pex Scott I replaced all my water lines with PEX and love it The biggest expense are the fittings, which I used the flare it type instead of the crimp. The crimp style is cheaper but the price of the tool makes up for the difference in cost. Of course you can rent the tool or borrow one if you know someone that has it. A lot of the new trailers has the crimp fittings and most people I talk to has little to no problems with leaks. Not that it matters but I was in RV sales for awhile after my USAF retirement so I talked to a lot of RVer's (the full timers have a wealth of info)and used the info I learned in making my decision on which I style I used. As for prices on fittings you will be able to get them cheaper at a plumbing supply store versus Home D, though they may need to order some that you will need. I looked at all my water lines and kind of mapped out what I wanted to do and wrote down all that I would need, then added in a few extra just in case. Installation wasn't that bad except in areas that I wanted to put insulation on the lines such as over the wheel wells and under the floor where it crossed to the other side of the trailer. I also put in a seperate shutoff valve for blue line (cold) and red (hot) just in case I ever did have a problem I could take care of it and still have water if necessary. This was also good time for me to install a water filter for the entire trailer instead of using one attached outside. We only made one cold weather trip to North Georgia and only had one problem, but that was with the water hose hookup. I have since got a heated hose wrap made up for the water hose that I will use the next time we go snow chasing, next year. Bobby - -------Original Message------- From: Scott Scheuermann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If I decide to replace with PEX what will I need to get as far as tools and fittings go and where is a good place online to purchase them? Scott - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to <a target=_blank href="http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html";>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html</a> > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 18:40:47 -0500 From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Mice in the Airstream David I would close the door and just walk away..... Having bought a 63 FC last year , covered with snow , as spring sprung it started to stink - and as the snow melted - a corrosion place appeared . Upon inspection of that , the mouse house was discovered ( Mouse pee is corrosive to aluminium , big time) . As the interior panel was removed , the chewed wire was revealed . One of several . Wondered why the front lights didnt work . Thousands of drilled rivets later the inside is shiney-r than the outside . And I wont be sniffing that stench . If I live to finish the project .... no small undertaking . If you decide to do this , make sure you dont need to move it for a long time and put it on stands carefully , I was told not to move it with the inner skin off . If you do take the inside skin off , you`ll find out where they lived , and it will gross you out . I think most airstreams have had a mouse or two at some point - somewhere in there - at least I`ll KNOW mine is clean . I might have taken the body off the frame if I knew how far I would end up going with this , having taken all the panels away anyway . ( Next Time ...) Let me know if you want to sell it cheap ....it wont scare me so bad second time around ... ;>) Chris > Daisy wrote : > > If you are really afraid about this, the place the rodents love the best > is the insulation between the skins. folks have been known to pull all > that out and replace it. > > David Pfeffer wrote: > > > > > I have a new one for you. About 2 years ago I bought a 1960 TW with the > > intent of restoring, unfortunately some mice had gained entry and set up > > shop. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 19:19:02 -0600 From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] LED inside - over the door On Thu, 13 Mar 2003 13:41:24 -0500 (EST), Bobby Gill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >Either that or just replace the rocker style light switch with a lighted style rocker >switch such as what is used with some off road lights or other auto accessory items. headslap! why did I not think to suggest that?? I must have half a doz of those around here. sheez! chas ... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 21:20:24 -0500 From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Help The problem is that your converter isn't working and the battery is dead. All your lights are 12 volts and should be working w/o the charger. <<Jim>> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> - -----Original Message----- From: David Turner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Thursday, March 13, 2003 2:10 PM Subject: [VACList] Help >Help!!! >I have a 1973 Tradewinds that I can't get the 110 volt lights to work. > >The 10v recps and refg and roof a/c all work but the 110v lights don't. > >The lights will work on 12v when a battery charger is hooked up to the battery. > >What could be the problem. > >Thanks >David >[EMAIL PROTECTED] >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > >To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 20:46:41 -0600 From: "Lee Pierce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Leveling Jacks. [ Note: This mail was converted from HTML to text by majordomo. Formatting might be poor. ] The reason I am interested in installing the Levelers is that my dad and I walked to the back of my trailer and lifted the front of my trailer. Kind of intertaining. I picked up some of the aluminum stands but they are such a pain to use each time I setup. In consideration of the followng responses, I think I will take two 2" square steel tubing and weld them together the long way, mount that across the frame and then attach the levelers to that a few feet behind the rear axle. Or maby do the same with some 4 inch wide plate. That way any twisting force is spread across both beams and the stress will be close to the axles. I think I will get inside the underbelly and weld in an attachment point instead of drilling holes through the frame. Lee Response 1. my '72 Overlander had them installed just aft of the back axle about level with the rear jack hardpoints... i wouldn't think it would be wise to put them any further back than that. Response 2. clearance and they drug on almost every driveway incline and were quickly bent and were totally inoperable by 2000 at which time the curbside unit was drug completely off of the coach as I departed the driveway at my farm. Response 3 These are not leveling jack, they are stabilizing jack. The just inhibit the bounce and shake of walking in the trailer. If you were to use them to level the trailer you would cause frame stress and possible damage. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Protect your PC - Click here for McAfee.com VirusScan Online ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 22:31:46 -0600 From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Power wrench for jacks? (was Leveling Jacks.) Does anyone use an electric "drill" or somesuch to run the jacks down or are all of us using our speed wrenches? what is the fastest and easiest procedure for setting these up and taking them down? thanks chas ... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 21:29:39 -0800 From: William Kerfoot <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Power wrench for jacks? (was Leveling Jacks.) I use a 3/8 cordless drill, just make sure that you slow down and the bottom and top or it will rip out of your hands. It is a lot easier than the hand wrench. Bill Kerfoot WBCCI #5223 1979 23' Safari 1973 Dodge W200 Powerwagon Orange, CA schuetzen - RKBA! wrote: >Does anyone use an electric "drill" or somesuch to run the jacks down or are all >of us using our speed wrenches? what is the fastest and easiest procedure for >setting these up and taking them down? > >thanks >chas > > > >... > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > >To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 00:47:15 -0500 From: "bill rogers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] 12-volt woes Hi all - I'm restoring a 1962 Trade Wind, and have run up against some 12-volt problems. I'm hoping the vast experience of VACsters might help me root them out. Currently, the entire indoor 12-volt system doesn't work, though the running lights are fine, and the 110-volt lights are a-ok. Until recently, the interior 12V lights in the front half of the trailer, plus the porch light outside, did work. (The interior lights in the rear never worked, and I figured it was because of bad grounds.) But before I could start working on them, the 12V lights went on the blink. There was a brief period when wiggling the battery leads going into the trailer got the lights to flicker, but soon that, too, failed the have any effect. (The battery currently holds a 12.6 volt charge.) Now, when I attach the positive lead to the battery, the line fuse blows with a very bright flash. This indicates a shorted positive line, I believe. (By the way, I've not been able to find any other 12-volt fuses in the system, and wonder if a fuse panel was removed when a 20-amp transformer was installed to power the heater fan, date unknown. There's also a very small transformer that DOES look original, located in the kitchen cabinet above the stove (on the port side - I don't know what that one does). Now, I've traced the hot lead from the battery into the interior, and then inside the skin to the first fixture (starboard side interior light). There's no sign of any melting or short there. All the other fixtures have intact wires -- nothing melted in the visible wiring coming out of the interior skin. So, before I rewire the whole 12-volt system as part of the on-going restoration, can someone think of likely places where a hot lead would melt its insulation, or otherwise wear through the insulation and short out? I'm prepared to do some more surgery, but I don't intend to tear the poor Trade Wind apart looking for the failed wires. Any and all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks much, Bill Rogers Lafayette, CO _____________________________________________________________ Get 25MB, POP3, Spam Filtering with LYCOS MAIL PLUS for $19.95/year. http://login.mail.lycos.com/brandPage.shtml?pageId=plus&ref=lmtplus ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 00:04:20 -0600 From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] 110VAC or 12VDC? On Thu, 13 Mar 2003 21:20:24 -0500, "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >I have a 1973 Tradewinds that I can't get the 110 volt lights to work. > >The 10v recps and refg and roof a/c all work but the 110v lights don't. > I would never presume to say that this unit does not have 110v lights I have seen too many abused TT which have been gutted or have only had 110v wiring run thru them and all sorts of conditions between those extremes. The oft repeated statement is correct though. the trailer - originally - had nothing but 12v lights in it. the only thing that might have been 110 were a couple of wall receptacles, the three way fridge, the a/c and maybe the water heater. iow, the Univolt accepted 110 and changed it to 12v for most of the circuitry but a couple of circuits were 110. again, I may be thinking about my 67 because I do not think that my 76 has any 110 wall plugs - maybe wrong but I do not think so. fwiw chas ... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 06:04:09 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] Power wrench for jacks? (was Leveling Jacks.) Yes, I use a cordless drill with a socket adaptor to run my stabilizer jacks up and down. It sure beats the lug wrench I used to use. Cliff ------------------------------ End of VACList Digest V3 #131 ***************************** When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
