VACList Digest Sunday, March 16 2003 Volume 03 : Number 133
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html Topics in Today's Digest: Re: [VACList] adding water filter under sink Re: [VACList] Leveling Jacks. should be STABILIZING jacks [VACList] board to level Re: [VACList] board to level [VACList] Leveling Boards Re: [VACList] board to level Re: [VACList] New Tires and Wheels [VACList] Bathroom floor Re: [VACList] New Tires and Wheels Re: [VACList] Bathroom floor ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 10:01:30 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] adding water filter under sink my 67 safari has it's o e filter on the kitch sink only a check valve is needed to prvent h2o coming out city hose con w/ runing pump on int tank & vise versa ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 10:50:32 -0800 From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Leveling Jacks. should be STABILIZING jacks > The reason I am interested in installing the Levelers is that my dad > and I walked to the back of my trailer and lifted the front of my > trailer. Kind of intertaining. I picked up some of the aluminum > stands but they are such a pain to use each time I setup. Hi Lee: Why not just put one "aluminum stand" centered under the bumper. You do most of your walking down the center of the trailer anyhow. The tongue jack or hitch will hold up the front. Side to side motion should be negligable. If you put jacks near the axle(s) I suspect you will have the same problem when loading up the far aft end of the trailer. You are right about the aluminum jacks though. They are a pain to deal with. GQ '67 Safari ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 15:21:41 -0800 From: Pearl Main <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] board to level Hi Lee: You have been hearing from many that the stabilizer jacks are not for leveling.....you will want to carry a few boards depending on if you are single axel or double. use them on the low side....they should be at least 15/18" long 2 1/2" strong plywood....1" 2" 3" regular lumber a little wider than your tires. It helps if one end is tapered. I am presuming you have a level on the front of your trailer to tell you when you need leveling. I carry mine right inside the rear door of the van for easy acess.......Just be sure you have the wheels blocked so trailer won't move when you unhitch. Pearl in SoCal ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 19:23:40 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [VACList] board to level Yo me level is when I can walk arounf inside the trailer with out leaning too much things do not slide off the stove andI dont roll out of bed. When traveling I never unhook until I get where I am Going. When i unhook I eye ball iy and if it looks level that is good enough. yhe toungh weight is enough that I sewe no need for stablising jacks. Simply your life and enjoy. Jim Smith 1965 Tradewind(THE Silver Abaltross) 1992 Dodge Cummins ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 17:34:15 -0700 From: Brad Norgaard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Leveling Boards Hi all, Here's a leveling system I've been using made from 2 x 8's. All of the boards are separate from the others and I use a couple of loosely fitting bolts through the thickest part of the boards to keep them aligned while backing onto. If I only use two boards, I use shorter bolts. One end of the board is angle cut. Only need to make one set for the low side of the trailer and can mix and match as needed. | | | | ________________ |________________\___________ |____________________________\___________ |________________________________________\___________ |____________________________________________________\ Brad Norgaard Phoenix '59 Trade Wind Twin VAC #2699, TCT ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 17:03:49 -0800 From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] board to level > I am presuming you have a level on the front of your trailer to tell you when > you need leveling Hey Pearl and Lee: Although I have a level at the front of mine, I level to the bubble level in the fridge to make sure. One new fridge is enough. I use planks too, sometimes one partly on the other to form a ramp if one's not enough and two is too many. GQ '67 Safari in NoCal ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 10:21:36 -0500 From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] New Tires and Wheels Lauren, as others have said it's highly recommended that you replace your 25 year old tires on you trailer before taking any additional trips. Aside from very real safety concerns, when your old tire comes apart on the road, it's very likely to cause several hundred dollars damage to your trailer's wheel well and skin. There is very little clearance between the tire and the wheel well. The cost of new serviceable tires will be less than the damage likely to be inflicted and the peace of mind would be worth a lot to me. Jim Greene ' 68 Tradewind - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Helen Countryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Lauren & Helen Countryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 1:12 Subject: [VACList] New Tires and Wheels > Re: Hi Helen I am curious when you say the tires are 25 years old....have you recently purchased this trailer or are you an original owner? I am the original owner of 1964 soverign ..... > > > > We can say the tires are over 25 years old because we've had the trailer over 25 years, and they weren't new when we got it. It's been a couple of years since we've been out, and we didn't use it much the last three or four years before that. > > Yes, we've been very impressed at how well the tires lasted. This may be significantly due to the fact that, fully loaded, the trailer only loads the tires to approximately 60% of their rated load. Unlike some reports I've read, the tires have not developed fissures, lumps, or other visible defects. And, nylon (the cord material) is very rot resistant. > > > Lauren Countryman > 23352 > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 20:39:15 -0700 From: "Earl Peck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [VACList] Bathroom floor Hi All, I am in the final process of replacing the floor in the bath area of my 65 Overlander. I am replacing all of the last 4' of flooring. I have removed all of the floor bolts including the wonderful ones hiding in the C channel. At this point I was sitting there marveling at my accomplishment when it dawned on me that I had a fast approaching obstacle. I would like to save as much as I can of the old floor piece to use as a pattern but seeing that it overlaps approximately 1" into the C channel on both sides how does it come out and then how do you put the new piece back in without cutting it in half? Is cutting inevitable? Thanks for any and all help. Earl Peck ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 22:08:00 -0700 From: "gshippen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] New Tires and Wheels Lauren, I can verify what Jim has just said. Once while stopped at a gas station an elderly gentleman stopped in with his Tad. After considerable discussion of Airstreams I learned he had traveled from Arkansas to the west coast via Wyoming. Only one flat, however that one was a blowout and it ripped out a section about one foot square behind the wheel well! I recently purchased two new tires and have two more on the way. GAS Saturday, March 15, 2003 8:21 AM Subject: Re: [VACList] New Tires and Wheels > Lauren, as others have said it's highly recommended that you replace your 25 when your old tire comes apart on the road, it's > very likely to cause several hundred dollars damage to your trailer's wheel > well and skin. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 23:27:23 -0800 From: Eric Cadora <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [VACList] Bathroom floor I replaced the last 4' of floor in my '65 Sovereign a few months ago too, and in my opinion, if you've already pulled the bathroom, the worst is definitely over. As far getting the old piece out, in my case separation had occurred between the frame and the floor, so I was able to slide the pieces out the side after cutting it in two (make a clean cut and you can still use it as a template). Getting the new piece back in wasn't so easy. After several attempts I accepted defeat and cut it in two so that both sides would rest on one or the other rear ribs of the frame. You'll have to drill extra holes to secure the floor to the frame but that's cake. As far as closing the gap between floor and frame, I just did a really thorough and sturdy shimming job. I'm sure there are more expensive and probably better ways to do it, but I feel totally real comfortable with how mine came out. Hopes this helps, Eric Cadora ------------------------------ End of VACList Digest V3 #133 ***************************** When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
