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Flyfishing in Europe just keeps getting better and better. I don’t understand why more folks don’t take advantage of it. There are books written telling how to find the secret Europe. To find and experience the sites, culture, cuisine, and people of the less traveled Europe, you don’t need a guide book. All you really need is your fly rod.
This May I fished two different Italian rivers. One river, the Tevere (Tibor) tailwater, is brand new. Five years ago, this section of the Tevere ran dry in the summer due to irrigation needs. The other river was the Nera. The Nera was harnessed to power Roman mills around 30 BC. It was a great trip and I look forward to returning.
Both of these rivers are located in central Italy, about 2 – 3 hours driving time from Rome. The Tevere is in Tuscany and the Nera in Umbria.
While the Tuscan countryside is relatively hilly, it is widely cultivated. The river valley’s are broad with large fields of wheat polka dotted with red poppies. In the late spring, everything thing is green with abundant wild flowers rather than the ochre and browns that one normally associates with Tuscany.
Near the town of Sansepolcro, the Tevere flows through this Tuscan countryside. The river will eventually make its way through the center of Rome on its way to the Mediterranean Sea. Below the Montedoglio Dam, the Tevere is around 80 feet at the widest. It is braided in many places. This makes it easily wadable. It is hard to imagine that five years ago this section of river ran dry in the summer and that three years ago there were no trout in the river. It was then that the Italian fly-fishing club “Mosca Club Altotevere” first planted approximately 30,000 grayling and 40,000 brown trout in the river. The number of fry and fingerling in the water indicates healthy levels of natural reproduction of both species. The club’s fly-fishing catch and release (No Kill) fishery is 8 kilometers (6 miles) long. That gives this section of the river has a theoretical trout density comparable to a Montana’s Big Horn River. This isn’t the only similarity. The Lake Montedoglio lies in a limestone valley much like the Big Horn’s Yellowtail reservoir. Because this tailwater feeds from the bottom of the dam, the river runs cold. While I was there, the water temperature was 46°F.
Luca, my guide, told me that the fishing is best a bit later into the summer as water temperatures get up to 50°F. The tailwater is extremely fertile and full of insect life. While I was there, multiple hatches were going on continuously. Fortunately, I didn’t really need to match the hatch to catch fish because the multiple hatches made it difficult to determine what the fish are feeding on. Luca showed me his method of skating a foam fly over some of the calmer waters found on the river. This is where many of the larger brown trout lurk. It was popper action at its best for brownies in the 15” range. All were healthy and strong.
The next day we fished the Nera River in Umbria. Traveling through the Umbrian countryside, you see that it is more rugged than in Tuscany. The hillsides are steeper. There is less cultivation, and in areas, it is densely forested. From the valleys, you see that many of the hilltops have some type of structure on them. The structures range from decaying castles to modern villas offering splendid views of the region.
The Nera is a spring creek that flows through a steep narrow Umbrian limestone valley. We fished the 7 km “No Kill” section. This section of “No Kill’ was put in place in 1994. Nearby is a hatchery and education center. This same hatchery provided the fish stocked in the Tevere tailwater.
Where we fished the Nera, it was 20 feet across at the widest. For the most part this is a pocket water type fishery. Due to fishing pressure, the Nera has some very specific regulations. For example, streamers or strike indicators are forbidden and in one section, so is wading. The water is more technical than the Tevere. Short and accurate casts are necessary. I always felt that I could hold my own in this type of fishing. After watching Mauro, my second guide, cast in this water, I realized that I had a lot to learn. Most fish were in the 12” – 18” range with some larger specimens, up to 10 lbs. near the hatchery. These large fish are frequently targeted and it takes a skilled angler to get them on the line.
I arranged my trip through Tapestry Travel. Tapestry Travel offers a variety of non-structured programs in Italy. These are cultural events intertwined with fly-fishing (in my case), hunting, active sports, touring, art history and culinary events. These excursions can range from a day trip to a multi week event. Hunting and fishing excursions are centered on the decorum of the experience itself, not the catch or kill in particular. These types of trips are not for everyone. Tapestry selects clients through an interview process. My trip was an intense 4 day excursion including two and a half days of fishing. It began with a tour of the old city of Tivoli and Villa Adriana and ended with an afternoon in Rome.
Since I was traveling on my own, (my wife had to work and my daughter had to attend school), my meals were more informal. The first evening I dined on my own in my hotel’s restaurant. There some other hotel guests joined me. While they spoke little English and I speak even less Italian, I didn’t need a translator to share laughs and enjoy a round of Grappa.
My other meals were a delight as well. One evening we enjoyed dinner prepared by Mauro and his wife at his home deep in the Tuscan countryside. While fishing the Nera, we enjoyed a fine picnic, again prepared by Mauro, under a riverside gazebo.
A couple of meals were pizza in town. This was more at my direction. I preferred spending more time on the water so we fished until dark each evening. In the late spring that meant we were off the water at around 9:30, too late for a large meal. Had my wife been with me, it would have been different. However, this trip was tailored to my wants.
I also lunched at the Mosca Club Altotevere clubhouse where my guides Luca and Mauro are members. I learned that the club is working in conjunction with a local family to create a fly fishing center where anglers can dine, book a room for the night and have lunches catered directly to the riverside if desired. The Mosca Club Altotevere has long reaching plans to turn the tailwater and its surrounding stillwaters into the premier fly-fishing location of Italy and eventually Europe as well. The club’s hosting of the World Tuscany Open Fly Tying competition held in Sancepolcro, October 8 – 9 of 2005, emphasizes this vision. World Tuscany Open events and displays will be in the old town center of Sansepolcro.
Gear requirements for both rivers are basic. An 8’ four weight travel rod strung with a floating line will do. Ideally a shorter rod works better for the Nera. Waders are a must. Add the basic items such a leader and tippet (4X – 5X) and you are outfitted for the day. Also, carry a light jacket for any evening fishing. Air temperatures drop quickly as the sun goes down because of the cool water temperatures at the tailwater. While I was there, it was 90°F during the day and at dusk; it was cool enough to see my breath.
Issues for travelers to Europe to consider are different weight restrictions and carry on regulations than in the US. I traveled to Rome from the Netherlands so I took my fly-fishing gear with me. This took planning on my part. I also traveled alone and had to pack for only four summer days. European luggage restrictions are tight and enforced to the letter. For example, Ryan Air allows 15Kg (33 lbs) and one carry on. Unlike the current rules in the US, EU rules forbid carrying on rods, reels with line, and flies. All of these items must be checked. While these restrictions may not apply when you leave for Europe, the carry on restrictions will apply when you return to the US. Being aware of this prevents unfortunate surprises. However, Tapestry travel provides all the fly-fishing gear that the traveling angler needs at no extra cost. This includes rods, reels, boots, waders, flies and a lot less hassle. So, all you need to do is be there.
I fished with two different guides, Luca and Mauro. Please note that I said fished with. Unlike guides in the US, besides guiding you, your guide enjoys fishing with you as well.
While you are on the river, Tapestry Travel will arrange excursions for your spouse. Options range from museums and cultural events to shopping. One of the favorite shopping options is an Italian roulette mall appropriately named “The Mall”. This group of outlet shops includes brands such as: Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Loro Piana, and Giorgio Armani among others.
Besides Tapestry Travel, other outfitters offer fly-fishing specific trips in Italy. I know of two in Tuscany. One is Fly Fishing Top. I believe the rivers and lakes they fish are in Northern Tuscany. The other outfitter is Fly Fishing Italy. They offer fly-fishing on the Tevere Tailwater, Nera and couple of other rivers as well.
For photos go to:
http://community.webshots.com/album/362818748rxIKYr
To learn more about you own Italian fly-fishing adventure, here is some contact information:
Tapestry Travel:
Contact: Lawan Andersen, President [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Mosca Club Altotevere and The World Tuscany Open Fly Tying Competition: http://www.moscaclubaltotevere.it/
Fly Fishing Top:
Fly Fishing Italy: |
- RE: Trip Report - Italy, Tuscany and Umbria Michael Santangelo
- RE: Trip Report - Italy, Tuscany and Umbria Mark Steudel
