A VISIT to the Google headquarters in Mountain View, near the
southern end of California's San Francisco Bay, must prompt a
feeling of nostalgia among web industry veterans. The Googleplex,
as the sprawling campus is known, is the place where the dotcom
bubble never burst.

When I arrive on a sunny summer morning, a group of employees is
playing volleyball outside the entrance foyer. I notice food
stations - filled with free sweets and fruit - decorating the
corridors of the light, low-rise buildings. (So does my taxi
driver: he heads for the fridge full of smoothies and pockets a
couple before looking for me.)

This impression of easy-going freedom is, of course, partly an
illusion. No firm can lead its sector by encouraging slacking,
let alone one that generated over $4 billion in revenues in the
last three months. Yet according to current and former employees,
Google manages something remarkable when it comes to workplace
culture. The firm that famously grew from a garage operation to
multinational business has, in the process, managed to hold on to
the creative spirit that imbued its early days. In that sense,
the Googleplex bubble never did burst.

Peter Norvig, Google's director of research, is proof of that.
Google poached him from a plum academic position - division chief
at NASA's nearby Ames Research Center - back in 2001. Prior
employers included Sun Microsystems, before which he earned a PhD
at the University of California, Berkeley. His online CV makes it
clear that he has not regretted the move away from academia. A
note to recruiters reads: "Please don't offer me a job. I already
have the best job in the world at the best company in the world."

"It's true," says Norvig, when I ask him about the statement. He
is wearing one of his trademark loud shirts as he ambles in,
slightly late because of the difficulty of finding the interview
room in a campus that has expanded rapidly in recent years.
"Google has so many opportunities that you don't feel limited
here," he says. It is a feeling that has been maintained to an
"amazing degree", he adds. "There are 10,000 people here, but in
some ways it feels the same as when I joined and there were 200."

So how has Google managed to grow so spectacularly yet still
retain a freewheeling ethos? Norvig believes that an absence of
hierarchy is key. His staff are organised into groups that focus
on specific projects, and often don't even know which
vice-president heads the division they work in. The emphasis is
on teams to innovate from the bottom up, rather than follow what
Norvig calls "Soviet-style" diktats from senior staff.Bending the
rules

Google has proved extraordinarily successful at commercialising
search results - its key product - mainly by selling targeted
adverts alongside them. But Norvig says that staff are also
encouraged to pursue projects simply because they tie in with
Google's overarching mission - which it says is "to organise and
promote access to the world's information" - even if there is no
immediate pay-off. In the week of my visit, for example, the
company has just expanded its Google Earth programme to allow
users to navigate through images of hundreds of millions of stars
and galaxies. "Nobody said we should do that to be profitable,"
says Norvig. "It's just a really cool thing to do."

The firm's willingness to pursue new ideas also means that many
staff are working on original projects rather than fixing bugs in
old ones. The astronomy project is just one of many: Google also
launched a new facial-recognition system this summer, and
recently purchased the Finnish firm Jaiku, which specialises in
social networking for mobile phones - a sort of Facebook for
cellphones.

Longer-term, says Norvig, his staff are thinking about language
translation software as a step towards making every website
accessible to all, irrespective of your native tongue. The firm
also has a new directory enquiries system that relies completely
on speech recognition software. When it comes to maintaining a
creative spirit in the office, having projects like these is a
crucial advantage, says Norvig. "We've benefited from the fact
that we are growing so fast and are continually having to
reinvent ourselves."

If that sounds too good to be true, bear in mind that Google is
sitting on billions of reserves following its flotation in 2004.
Shares in the company, originally offered at $85, are now worth
over $700 apiece. That creates the kind of warm glow from
investors that allows senior executives to experiment - a
"success buffer", as Norvig puts it. "If the company started
performing badly you'd see some changes," he says.

Google's unique workplace culture stems in part from the company's
novel hiring strategies. Norvig says that Google sometimes posts
job adverts that only appear when someone searches for an obscure
topic that the firm thinks is interesting. "Translation lookaside
buffer" - a component of computer memory - is one such phrase
that alerted the searcher to a possible opening at Google
(although would-be applicants now need to think of something more
original, as no ads popped up when I tried that search). Google
also ran billboard ads containing complex mathematical
challenges, the solution to which led to a webpage that invited
applications.

Inventive job adverts are part of Google's policy of only hiring
candidates whose ability is above the mean of current employees.
In contrast, Norvig says that many firms during the dotcom boom
were content to hire applicants as long as they were better than
at least one current employee. He has developed a simple computer
model that compares the two processes. His model introduces noise
into the hiring system to reflect the fact that interviews are
imperfect and so some candidates with lower than expected ability
may be hired. The result was a steady decline in average
competence for the dotcom boom strategy. The Google approach, by
contrast, leads quickly towards a situation in which the typical
employee is among the best available.

Like the structure of the firm itself, Google's hiring strategy
benefits from ignoring traditional business categorisations.
Unlike most companies, Google's project managers don't hire
people for specific roles. Rather, people are hired because they
are right for Google as a whole. The final decision rests with
the Executive Management Group, comprising chief executive
officer Eric Schmidt and other senior staff. Only after a
candidate is approved are they assigned to a project best suited
to their abilities.

It is a system that junior staff at many other companies may envy,
but it does not necessarily make life easier for directors like
Norvig. The lack of a middle management means projects that
ultimately fail can hang around for longer than they might in
other firms. It also places a strain on Norvig's people skills.
He notes that textbooks advise managers to have direct
supervision for no more than seven staff. Norvig has 50. "And I'm
just back from vacation, so I probably have more," he adds. "I
don't know who they are yet."

With all that buzz under one roof, it is unsurprising that Norvig
has little hankering for his old academic life. Although he
remains connected with university research through Google's
funding schemes, and continues to update the textbook he wrote on
artificial intelligence - an academic best-seller that has been
translated into eight languages - the issues that made academia
easy to leave are still around today, says Norvig. "It's the
scale of problems that you can address. Professors are isolated
from each other - they're collegial but competitive. The biggest
team you have is yourself and whatever graduate students you
have. That's a limitation."

While the good times last at Google, those limitations do not
exist. "No one cares about how things are organised," says
Norvig. "They just want to get things done. You start doing
something, and if it's good, it will get there."

Jim Giles is a freelance writer based in San Francisco
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