IOT, will need a web interface and must have SNMP management too.  
May as well put a screen and browser on it too.  

From: Forrest Christian (List Account) 
Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2022 2:40 PM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group 
Cc: Chuck McCown 
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT: Electronic question

Hook the whole thing up to a PLC.  Lots of control then.    šŸ˜‰ 

On Tue, Sep 6, 2022, 10:18 AM Chuck McCown via AF <[email protected]> wrote:

  Resistor in parallel will draw more current and perhaps allow the solenoid 
  to work.  Those solenoid door bells normally use up almost all of the power 
  from those class 2 transformers.

  -----Original Message----- 
  From: [email protected]
  Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2022 9:57 AM
  To: 'AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group'
  Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT: Electronic question

  I'm thinking V=IR so if I add resistance to the newer bell would it draw 
  more current and trigger the solenoid?  Or would the resistor just be 
  turning current into heat?


  -----Original Message-----
  From: AF <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Chris Fabien
  Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2022 11:41 AM
  To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <[email protected]>
  Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT: Electronic question

  I think you are correct about the cause of the issue, probably the easiest 
  solution is to leave the buzzer in the main circuit, and wire a 24vac relay 
  in parallel with it, using the relay contacts to close and open the circuit 
  to the ding-dong bell.

  On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 10:08 AM <[email protected]> wrote:
  >
  > I know some of you are really good at this stuff…..
  >
  >
  >
  > I’m in a 95 year old house.  There are two doorbells.  I just replaced the 
  > front doorbell with a new cheapo from Lowes.  Two chimes and two 
  > solenoids.  One solenoid fires when you press the button, and the other 
  > fires when you release the button so you get the ā€œding-dongā€.
  >
  >
  >
  > There’s an old doorbell in the back kitchen that sounds like an old school 
  > bell.  Two coils make the clacker move rapidly back and forth striking the 
  > bell repeatedly.
  >
  >
  >
  > Well, when I hooked up both the old and new bell at the same time, the 
  > school bell goes off when you press the button and the new one just goes 
  > ā€œdongā€ when you release the button.  Either one works fine hooked up 
  > separately.  I’m guessing the first solenoid never fires on the new 
  > doorbell because the school bell is a way heavier load and takes all the 
  > current.  I could just replace the school bell, but I kinda like the 
  > nostalgic factor.  And I suppose the other easy answer is put them on 
  > separate transformers triggered by the same switch.
  >
  >
  >
  > Is there some simple nerd-gineer answer like ā€œjust put a resistor hereā€?
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > --
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  > [email protected]
  > http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com

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