My old house had a dual bell sounded like the old school class bell sound, it too was built in the 1880's.  My old house used a low-wattage 16v ac transformer.  The slightly newer bells use 24vAC bell circuits and the this side of 1970 have diodes which make them into 24vDC circuits.  You'll need to keep the school clackerbell on it's old transformer and wire in a relay to activate two circuits when the button is pressed.  You could browse thru a Granger catalog and find exactly what you need for pretty cheap.  The low voltage to the door button was what kept people from being electrocuted when it rained and the wood gets wet.

On 9/6/22 20:23, Bill Prince wrote:
When you're up to your ass in alligators, it's important to remember your original goal was to drain the swamp.

OTOH, I've had a lot of fun doing all sorts of goofball things with a raspberry pi.


--
bp
part15sbs{at}gmail{dot}com


On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 8:06 PM Forrest Christian (List Account) <[email protected]> wrote:

    On a slightly similar note..

    I'm considering using a raspberry pi or similar to do variable
    paging messages for various "visitor" events at the manufacturing
    facility.   For instance someone coming up the drive or pushing a
    doorbell.

    Just never got beyond the doorbell and it's a lot of effort to go
    through when a stock door chime works.

    On Tue, Sep 6, 2022, 3:26 PM Chuck McCown <[email protected]> wrote:

        IOT, will need a web interface and must have SNMP management too.
        May as well put a screen and browser on it too.
        *From:* Forrest Christian (List Account)
        *Sent:* Tuesday, September 6, 2022 2:40 PM
        *To:* AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group
        *Cc:* Chuck McCown
        *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] OT: Electronic question
        Hook the whole thing up to a PLC.  Lots of control then.    😉
        On Tue, Sep 6, 2022, 10:18 AM Chuck McCown via AF
        <[email protected]> wrote:

            Resistor in parallel will draw more current and perhaps
            allow the solenoid
            to work.  Those solenoid door bells normally use up almost
            all of the power
            from those class 2 transformers.

            -----Original Message-----
            From: [email protected]
            Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2022 9:57 AM
            To: 'AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group'
            Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT: Electronic question

            I'm thinking V=IR so if I add resistance to the newer bell
            would it draw
            more current and trigger the solenoid?  Or would the
            resistor just be
            turning current into heat?


            -----Original Message-----
            From: AF <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Chris Fabien
            Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2022 11:41 AM
            To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <[email protected]>
            Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT: Electronic question

            I think you are correct about the cause of the issue,
            probably the easiest
            solution is to leave the buzzer in the main circuit, and
            wire a 24vac relay
            in parallel with it, using the relay contacts to close and
            open the circuit
            to the ding-dong bell.

            On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 10:08 AM <[email protected]> wrote:
            >
            > I know some of you are really good at this stuff…..
            >
            >
            >
            > I’m in a 95 year old house.  There are two doorbells.  I
            just replaced the
            > front doorbell with a new cheapo from Lowes.  Two chimes
            and two
            > solenoids.  One solenoid fires when you press the
            button, and the other
            > fires when you release the button so you get the
            “ding-dong”.
            >
            >
            >
            > There’s an old doorbell in the back kitchen that sounds
            like an old school
            > bell.  Two coils make the clacker move rapidly back and
            forth striking the
            > bell repeatedly.
            >
            >
            >
            > Well, when I hooked up both the old and new bell at the
            same time, the
            > school bell goes off when you press the button and the
            new one just goes
            > “dong” when you release the button. Either one works
            fine hooked up
            > separately.  I’m guessing the first solenoid never fires
            on the new
            > doorbell because the school bell is a way heavier load
            and takes all the
            > current.  I could just replace the school bell, but I
            kinda like the
            > nostalgic factor.  And I suppose the other easy answer
            is put them on
            > separate transformers triggered by the same switch.
            >
            >
            >
            > Is there some simple nerd-gineer answer like “just put a
            resistor here”?
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > --
            > AF mailing list
            > [email protected]
            > http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com

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