I too have seriously considered a couple of different spaceframe designs
utilizing a variety of Alfa donor drivelines. I got to the stage of parting
out an Alfetta sedan and laying out the components on the garage floor to
mark it all out. I offer the following random and raving comments, but
caution that my memory may not be 100% accurate:
1. If you are building a 2-seater, and especially if the design has a
high profile (i.e. replica 1930s style) then you should be able to
considerably reduce the flywheel-to-transmission distance of an Alfetta
driveline. This allows you to shorten the propshaft, maybe to the extent of
only needing one half (propshafts are different lengths in coupes Vs sedans
so may be able to mix-n-match rather than cutting and welding). If you are
seated back towards the transmission, you can also fabricate a much better
gearchange system. The combination of short propshaft and more direct
shifter should yield very good results.
2. To give you an idea of how this would work, imagine sitting in the
rear seat of an Alfetta coupe, but having the steering wheel, dash and
pedals all in reach. In fact one could probably come up with a design where
the flywheel connects directly to the clutch.......but this would be the
same as a 105 driveline with a bunch of disadvantages, so you'd be better
off just using the 105 setup to begin with..........
2. There should be no need to use an Alfetta bellhousing on the 115
engine. It only serves as a rear engine support and it shouldn't be
difficult to fabricate a plate to bolt to the rear of the engine to connect
to the chassis. I would do all I could to NOT use the Alfetta housing, even
if only to make changing guibos easier.
3. Depending on the body design, you may be able to have the pedal box
and your feet well forward and beside the engine block. This will further
assist in shortening the overall design.
4. My RHD design used an inverted LHD steering rack situated forward of
the sump, connecting to modified Alfa 75 steering arms. The 75 ( Milano)
arms are removable whereas the earlier Alfetta items are all cast as one
piece. The inverted rack is needed because moving the steering arms from
behind the axle line to in front of the axle line means a standard rack
would make the car steer the opposite to your inputs. This would take some
time to master.............. ;-)
5. The simplest design would utilise a standard 105/115 driveline, and
there are a few Clubman style (Lotus-7) cars using exactly that. There are
also a couple of Alfetta based cars, but the low floorline is a problem when
trying to design around the Alfettas massive clutch housing. Have you
considered an Alfa engine, Alfa DeDion suspension, and a Japanese
transmission and diff?
6. Another option is to design things so the hump for the Alfetta clutch
housing sits under your knee. This would allow a lower seat.
7. If you are set on using an Alfetta rear end, why not buy a GTV6 or
Milano junker and build a V6 version?
8. Alternatively, use a 164 engine/tranny and design a mid/rear engined,
RWD chassis around it. Basically design a cradle to hold engine, tranny and
rear supension, then you are free to design any number of cockpits and front
ends to simply bolt on.
My (stalled) plans for an Alfetta based homebuilt chassis ended up at a
vaguely 1750 Zagato body style (very vaguely!). The higher floor and
straight body lines simplifies the design and manufacture considerably, both
for the chassis and the bodywork (no complex curves in any sheetmetal).
Having the wheels external to the body does make legroom an issue though,
meaning that you need to sit a little further aft. When I had the design
bug, large diameter wheels were only available for SUVs. Now of course
lightweight 20" wheels are all over, and this would help keep a 1930s
influenced design more in proportion. I've always found that the single
biggest aesthetic issue with the Quattroroute and MGTC replicas is the small
wheels.
A couple of good resources for this type of project are the Ron Champion
books (google Locost), The SpeedPro series of books (particularly How To
Build & Modify Sportscar & Kitcar Suspension & Brakes), and if you can find
an old copy, Racing and Sports Car Chassis Design by Michael Costin and
David Phipps. I have a library full of other books but find these ones to
be the simplest. Most of the others are so detailed and offer so many
options they scare me off ever cutting or welding a chassis tube.
Don't search for perfection first time out or you will never start.......
Good Luck!
Beatle
Alfaless in Oz
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