Dan, I've read through replies up through tonight and would like to share my recent experience with you.
I think the advice given is good. However, it is rarely possible to diagnose a problem remotely. The fact that the windows work is a good sign. It makes sense to remove the door panels and service the electrical connections and the winding gear regardless of what else is wrong. It doesn't take long and it is not difficult. Just work carefully so you don't break anything. Good time to inspect for rust too. I use shop towels, WD 40 and a nylon parts cleaning brush to remove the old, dried grease. I find white lithium grease a good replacement. WD 40 itself is a great solvent but I do not believe it is a lubricant. You can check that the window is secure and in its tracks and guides while doing this. I use jewelers files on the electrical connections. I have flat files for lugs and round ones for female bullets. I also use some sand paper. A little dielectric grease will hold the connections corrosion free for a long time. Use a volt meter to see if you can get battery voltage at the motors. You can jumper switch terminals if you suspect them and see if the voltage rises at the motor wiring. You need a wiring diagram for that but the manual should have enough of one. Note that polarity changes when you switch from up to down. Also, wiggle the wires along their length in the door while watching a volt meter to see if there are any internal issues. I do this with power off while checking for continuity on the voltmeter. Checking the point where the wires enter the door as advised. I replaced wires a couple of weeks ago that had only 4 strands of copper remaining. The motor hummed but did not wind. I have disassembled switches, filed their contacts and reassembled them with a little dielectric grease. It might save one, but ultimately in my experience, a replacement is often required. The resistance should be very low, on the order of tens of Ohms on a good switch. Again, you need the wiring diagram to test them. Take the appropriate grounds apart (per the wiring diagram.) and use the files to shine them up. Make sure there is shiny metal where they attach to the chassis. Use a little dielectric grease here too. Now, if there is still no satisfaction, you can feel good about taking the vehicle to a friendly auto electrician or Alfa mechanic. My experience is that old grease really slows things down. Electrical gremlins are a prevalent on all cars of the era, BMW, Saab and Alfas anyway. I probably spend 4 weekends a year chasing electrical problems between my two 1985 model year cars. Thank god for weather pak connectors. Scott Shure Ellicott City, MD 85 GTV-6 > <>Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 16:12:05 -0500 > From: "Dan Lewis" <[email protected]> > Subject: [alfa] '88 Spider Power Windows Slow - Fix or Replace? > Hey, I know this has been discussed sometime before, but I can't seem > to find > the answers. > > My 1988 Spider Quad's power windows are reeeeeeeally slow, especially the > passenger side - near 90 seconds to go up! - but they still do work, > full-up > to full-down. I have yet to tear the doors apart to "examine" the > situation > and would really, really like some advice before doing anything. I am > fairly > well mechanically inclined and do the majority of my own work (from > electrical > to brakes to engines), but haven't torn into any power window systems very > deeply. I have no problem dismantling and re-building things, so if > there is > a "fix" for the window motors or associated mechanicals, I'd love to hear > about it! > > Or, is this only an exercise in futility or a time-wasting trip to > insanity, > where replacement-with-new-or-known-working-parts is the only viable > option? > Inquiring minds want to know... > > Dan Lewis > Bellevue, NE > 1988 Alfa Romeo Spider Quadrifoglio - Red (of course) > 2005 Cadillac Deville DTS - Big Black & Beautiful -- to be removed from alfa, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi or email "unsubscribe alfa" to [email protected]
