I've found drive shaft balancing to be very tricky. One shouldn't
really replace any giubos without balancing the shaft professionally.
I have had some luck with using strategically placed hose clamps on
the shaft (the screw-tightening type) but while that method can lessen
the shake to a tremendous degree, and make it acceptable, it's nothing
like getting the shaft professionally balanced as a unit.
George Graves
'86 GTV-6 3.0 'S'
On Nov 1, 2011, at 2:18 PM, Brian Shorey wrote:
I've heard the Alfa nut balancing theory more than once. I think
I've only
ever seen one instance where a washer was visibly thicker than the
rest of
them. Otherwise, if everything weighs the same on a scale, it
shouldn't
matter which way they go.
And quite frankly, would this really indicate that there is no
option but to
rebalance a drive shaft assembly should you ever strip a bolt and
need to
replace it?
bs
Sent from my iPad 3
On Nov 1, 2011, at 7:38 AM, Greg Hermann <[email protected]>
wrote:
Mark wrote:
I think Chris is correct on this one. As I understand it, the
transaxle
propeller shaft is balanced as an assembly. I do not think this
includes
hardware or the yokes at either end of the shaft. Having said that,
the shop
manuals I have mention marking the yokes and the shaft prior to
disassembly
and re-assembling them accordingly. Of course, doing so could not
hurt at
all!
I don't know about Alfas, but SOME cars (late Volvos, for one) used
driveshaft flange bolts with different thickness heads as a way to
balance the
shaft assembly. Therefore--BEST to mark EVERYTHING, including the
hardware,
and keep it all in the same place !!
Greg
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