Just to clear up the terms: Stress is a Force applied to an area; Shear is a Stress applied tangentially; Strain is the deformation that results from Stress.
So, when a Shear Stress is applied to the glued bond between the metal and the wood, the Strain will probably be great enough to separate the block from the frame of the chair. Dig? > CC: [email protected] > From: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [alfa] Little to zip Alfa glue question > Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2011 11:28:45 +0800 > To: [email protected] > > For wood, I wouldn't trust glue. I would either screw it, or drill it and peg > it, in addition to the glue. > > I think you are referring to strain, not sheer, if I understand you correctly. > I would use more than glue. > > The stress on a drilled peg solution is sheer, glue that and it will be very > strong. > > bs > > Sent from my iPhone 5S > > On Dec 16, 2011, at 11:18 AM, [email protected] wrote: > > > Eons ago I asked this question, and received several replies, but this time > > I'm going ahead with the project. > > > > It has to do with glue holding an item in shear. Pretty sure that is > correct > > term. If you're at all familiar with the Charles Eames molded plywood and > > leather lounge chair and ottoman, it would be helpful. There are four > > 4.5"x1.75" hard rubber with a metal base blocks, two of which support the > back > > of the chair and two for the armrests. The metal is glued to the plywood, > > meaning when you lean back in the chair all that is holding it is the glue > for > > the two blocks. > > > > Two broke off eons ago but fortunately a fellow has made new blocks which I > > have. He includes PC*7 a 2-part epoxy paste as part of the repair kit. I'm > > hesitant to use it it since it is now at least three years old - but could > buy > > new if someone is familiar with it and agrees it would make a terrific bond > > for metal to wood. > > > > I'm currently filling some divots with JBWeld where some of the veneer > broke > > off on one of the glue areas. I've considered using it, but not sure how it > > would work in shear. > > > > For the other, a large chunk of the veneer came off with the the block, > which > > I've managed to glue the veneer back (much easier to write than do) using > > Loctite 2-part (extra time) epoxy. It claims to be 3,000 psi. > > > > Right now I'm leaning towards the Loctite, but open to suggestions. I am > > convinced it must be a 2-part epoxy. I ordered some Titebond III wood glue > > (not 2-part) which got rave reviews on the Internet. My acid test was to > glue > > two pieces of wood together to see if the wood broke before the bond did. > Bond > > broke, but will use it for occasional wood to wood items. > > > > I tried to pry the type of glue originally used out of Herman Miller, the > > manufacturer, with no luck. By-the-by, they charge something like $1,500- > to > > do what I'm doing. > > > > So, PC*7, JBWeld, 2-part Loctite (it includes both wood and metal for its > > use), or?? > > > > Back to the Roll Call. > > > > Biba > > Irwindale, CA USA > > -- > > to be removed from alfa, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi > > or email "unsubscribe alfa" to [email protected] > -- > to be removed from alfa, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi > or email "unsubscribe alfa" to [email protected] -- to be removed from alfa, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi or email "unsubscribe alfa" to [email protected]
