Bruce, I've taken out my SPICA pump a few times for various reasons. The next time will be to inspect the microswitch that seems to be faulty.
Clean off the oil/grease/grime/dirt before starting to remove it. So much easier when clean ! However you need to really loosen up the two bar-type clamps that hold the SPICA hard lines to prevent them from vibrating too much. Remove the bottom one which is closest to the pump so that you can get them out of the way. Remove the TA completely from the pump and the head: you don't want to crimp that delicate copper tube at all. I think that you can get a new O-ring for the bulb in the head. A 3/8" crowfoot on an extension (17 mm I think) is good for removing the hard lines from the pump as well as putting them back on. The torque value is pretty small, something like 17 ft/lb - I've got it written down somewhere in my notes. And torque the inner two hard lines first before doing the outside two because of wrench clearance issues. Time the pump to #4 cylinder, NOT #1. I filled the pump with motor oil before I started the car via the barometric compensator (held in with 3 screws). Any overfill drains back into the motor's sump. Did Wes put in a new oil filter for you? Bruce > Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 17:09:04 -0500 (EST) > From: [email protected] > Subject: [alfa] SPICA removal > > I'm geting ready to remove my SPICA pump and replace it with an Ingram > rebuild. I have his book, and it looks like a fairly straight forward > procedure, but was wondering if anyone had extra hints or tips. I also > had Wes > rebuild/clean the injectors. I'd ask Skip P., but he would probably say > that I > should have had Webers. > > Bruce Sharer -- to be removed from alfa, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi or email "unsubscribe alfa" to [email protected]
