Hello there,


I'd agree - a wooden pedal and weak braking usually means the booster's not
working. There are a couple of traditional diagnostic tests you see in all the
car manuals, which I've found to work well in practice...

One is to start and run the car for a few moments to build up the vacuum, then
pump the pedal a few times to get the feel of it; then switch off, and resume
pumping: if the booster had been working, you'll feel the pedal slowly harden
up as the vacuum is depleted with each pump.  (This test can be done in the
garage but is even better done with the car rolling, slowly and carefully, on
a deserted stretch of straight road.) (Careful not to lock your steering if
you switch off while rolling!)

The other test is definitely a non-moving test - simply hold your foot
pressing down on the pedal while you start the car, and you should feel the
booster start sucking the pedal down under your foot and towards the floor as
the engine comes to life.

You could try both of these tests on your good car (the Spider) to get the
idea of how they feel when all's working as it should.



I wonder if your total brake system refurbishment included this booster too?

If not, then that must be the prime suspect all right.



Best regards,

Graham Hilder, NZ

(1750 GTV with standing pedals and in-line booster, plus Alfasud & 156 with
normal brake systems!)



>Gentle Alfisti,

> I have replaced with new every component on my 66GT braking system. Unlike
my other booster-enhanced Alfa brakes, this car's middle pedal is, for a lack
of a better word, wooden. The pedal has no feel and is not really progressive
in it's stopping power. It feels like the booster isn't contributing anything
to the hydraulic circuit. I've checked for vacuum leaks and everything seems
tight. Maybe it's just that the return spring is weak. These brakes are
woefully lacking compared to my Spica spider.

> Any words of advice, Digest?  How does one conduct an op-check on a booster?
Thanks one and all.

> modelle





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