Ok,

  I've done a lot of testing of different igniter schemes.  Were they ematches 
like Double-ended E-match-Initiated with Dual-End Burn
Shown here when you scroll down:   ttp://www.berfield.com/igniters.html

Or was it a variation of a standard nichrome igniter?  If a variation of say a 
"first fire" type igniter, one has to have enough current
and I would have suspected the project team would have ground tested these 
igniter with the electronics that
was going to be used to start them in flight.  Is that what you mean by "he 
tested 6"?  Did he use the altimeter that was going to fly to test 
them or just a plain battery?

I doubt the theory of "thin pyrogen".  If the nichrome is too fine, it may heat 
up unevenly and more intensely 
in some spots as opposed to others.  The overlying pyrogen can react locally in 
a violent fashion and "pop"
off the wire.  In the process of "popping" off it fractures the wire and since 
there is no more current flowing
there is no longer any heat flux, the rest of the igniter remains unburned.

Three ways around this:  1. Use a thicker gauge nichrome wire.  Only problem 
there is it requires more battery current to heat up 
                                            and might not be able to be 
supplied by the staging electronics.
                                         2.  Experiment like crazy and try to 
find the optimum (smallest) nichrome gauge that will  reliably 
                                              work so you can get away with 
smaller and lighter battery capacity
                                         3.  Use a little trick I learned when 
a batch of my igniters seemingly turned into "poppers".  It's very simple.
                                              I take my fingers, small hemostat 
or needle nosed pliers and gently crack the igniter head along its
                                              length.  I do it very gently 
because I just want to introduce some transverse cracks along the length
                                              of the pyrogen head in several 
spots tip to base.  I don't want the pyrogen to fall off but crack it just a 
                                              "little bit".
What I think now happens is the cracked pyrogen allows any rapid buildup of 
gases to safely "vent" and allow just a fraction more time
for the pyrogen to catch.  It seems that the igniter might start from the 
"cracks".  Once the head is burning the tough part is over.

I've had "bad" batches of homemade igniters that would work nicely after I 
started cracking them.  In fact, I just routing "crack" all my
homemade igniters now out of habit 'cause I hate walking back to the pad.

Yeah, I know for staging it's a different story but if using a nichrome wire as 
opposed to a ematch augmented the theory should be the same
as I expressed above.

Kurt



--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 6/30/15, Casey Barker <[email protected]> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [altusmetrum] Update and Questions about TeleMega on 100K Attempt
 To: "Altus Metrum" <[email protected]>
 Date: Tuesday, June 30, 2015, 1:48 PM
 
 Our pyro
 guy dissected it and determined that the pyrogen was too
 thin in one spot, so it didn't ignite all of it. Out of
 his batch of 10, he tested 6, flew his own rockets on 2, and
 lit the booster with 1. Figures the sustainer would be the
 one that failed.
 Casey
 On Tue, Jun
 30, 2015 at 11:13 AM Kurt <[email protected]>
 wrote:
 Homemade
 igniter?  If so it might have popped and fractured the
 nichrome wire.
 
 Was it ematch/pyrodex or a dipped ematch augmented pyrogen
 or did you have
 
 sufficient battery juice to use a standard nichrome dipped
 pyrogen igniter.
 
 Kurt
 
 
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