Oh, I agree that it works acceptably well right out of the box, and I've made 
contacts with it. I've also noticed little to no difference changing the 
polarization by rotating it. I wonder if the proximity to the ground, and the 
person holding it, is why the polarization doesn't seem to matter too much. I 
know for a fact that polarization *does* matter if you're using a Yagi up on a 
tower. I get better signal strength from my omni on 2 meters than from my 
9-element horizontally polarized M2 Yagi when pointed at the same repeater. And 
at a previous job, one of my responsibilities was to aim satellite antennas, 
and "peak and cross-pole" them. I've seen well over 20dB difference from being 
on the "wrong" polarization. Theoretically, it's infinite, but due to how the 
feeds are made, and other factors, it's never "infinite".
As for Al's software program being "wrong", it might not be the software, but 
how it was used. I'm not knocking Al; he's provided a great, unique product for 
the Amateur community.
If I were better versed in the use of antenna-modeling programs, I'd measure 
out the antenna and check it for myself, but I'm not, so I go by what other 
antenna experts that I respect have said. I suppose an easy way to get a rough 
idea on this would be to see where the SWR is lowest in the 70cm band. My 
antenna analyzer doesn't go that high in frequency, so I can't do that.
Britain's article was in the Summer 2006 issue of "CQ VHF", where he states 
that the antenna has been measured at several conferences, and has showed gains 
of around 4dBi at 435MHz, well short of what 7 elements should give. For 
example, an M2 6-element, end-mounted 70cm antenna is rated at 11dBi, and a 
Gulf Alpha 8-element, end-mounted 70cm is rated at 13dBi. His NEC evaluation 
based on the element length and spacing showed forward gain *should* peak at 
around 457 MHz, and that his NEC model suggested the boom correction factor for 
insulated vs directly mounted elements was not applied, and that the elements 
appeared to be about 1/2" short.
And as the Arrow Antenna website states, "This Antenna has not been tested for 
gain.  No need, it works." Can't argue with that!
For the small cost of a box of 1/4" threaded spacers, I think it's worth making 
the elements longer.
JimĀ  KQ6EA
--- On Sun, 8/16/09, Clint Bradford <[email protected]> wrote:

From: Clint Bradford <[email protected]>
Subject: [amsat-bb] Re: Arrow Antennas
To: [email protected], [email protected]
Date: Sunday, August 16, 2009, 1:19 PM

> ... Why are we modifying the Arrow?

> ... Because someone's analysis says the element length is all wrong ...

So Al Lowe's software program which he used to design these is all wrong?

Sorry to get defensive on Al's behalf. This thread just "feels" like a re-hash 
of an "engineer's view vs. real world results" argument. Like when I was told 
here - by engineers - that it mattered how I twisted my Arrow while working the 
sats. "Ya gotta take polarization into account, Clint - there's a 22db 
difference when you turn your antenna 90 degrees - a tremendous performance hit 
if you don't take this into account ... "

Yet in the real world of demonstrating workin' the birds, there's no such 
performance degradation. I have hundreds of witnesses to this fact: Capture 
SO-50 and AO-51 with the Arrow and operate TX and RX while twisting the antenna 
in different angles doesn't change the great reception and transmission quality.

If you are in the market for an Arrow, I simply suggest that you use it as 
offered to you. You will be pleased with its 2M and 440 amateur bands 
performance. And leave the modding of the elements w-a-y on the bottom of your 
"things to do" lists.

Clint Bradford

----------------------------------
Clint Bradford, K6LCS
http://www.clintbradford.com
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