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> 19 August 2001
> FOR WHOM THE BELLS TOLL IN DJAKOVICA
>
> Text by Decani Monks,Visoki Decani Monastery ,Kosovo
>
> "We were not afraid but constantly said our prayers, knowing that they can
> destroy the church, but can never expel the Lord from the hearts of his
> faithful ones...Poleksija whispered, making sign of the cross.
>
> The Story which does not reach front pages
>
>           "God has chosen the foolish things of the world to shame the wise,
> and God has chosen the weak things of the world to shame the things which
> are strong" 1Cor 1:27
>
>           For two years after the war in Kosovo region six elderly Serb
> women in Djakovica defy the hatred which surrounds them by prayer and hope
> in God Poleksija Kastratovic (65) (Polexia Kastratovich) rang the bells of
> her little church as she would regularly do this sacred duty during the last
> 40 years. For her these bells do not only call for prayer but express the
> firm decision that the six last Orthodox Christians in the city of Djakovica
> still live and pray to the Lord.
>
>           Poleksija has been living for nearly 40 years in a little
> ramshackle house in the courtyard of the Serbian Orthodox parish church of
> the Mother of God, 100 km west from Pristina. Before she chose to live the
> life of the ancient prophetess Anna who greeted the newborn Christ in
> Jerusalem, she used to work as a teacher. She was fired eventually because
> she regularly went to the church to pray. In those years of atheism any Serb
> teacher or official would immediately be expelled from job for professing
> the Orthodox faith. For Poleksija this was "a blessing in disguise" and a
> clear sign that the Lord called her to serve Him at His church. Since then
> she has been regularly taking care of the church, cleaning it and ringing
> the bells for the prayer.
>
>           If the setting of this story were any Serb city around Yugoslavia
> this would not be so uncommon a story. But Poleksija together with other 5
> elderly Serb women has been living in the Kosovo city of Djakovica, in which
> there are no other Serbs. They live in complete isolation in their
> churchyard without any freedom to leave their home, or buy anything in a
> shop. After the Kosovo war in which many innocent people suffered in the
> conflict between the Yugoslav federal troops and Kosovo Albanian rebels
> almost all Serb population of Djakovica had to leave their homes. With the
> arrival of the NATO led KFOR troops Yugoslav army agreed to leave the
> Province but Albanian rebels began systematic extermination of remaining
> Serbs. In those days many Serbs all over Kosovo Province were killed,
> kidnapped, thousands of houses were burned, churches were desecrated with
> ancient tombstones turned over and smashed to peaces.
>
>           For all who had waited for the internationally-granted peace this
> was a grave disappointment, because bloodshed happened virtually in front of
> NATO soldiers.
>
>           When the Italian troops were deployed in Djakovica certain number
> of elderly Serbs still remained in their homes hoping to get some
> protection.  Unfortunately, Albanian extremists (KLA) organized everyday
> raids in search for Serbs while others looted Serb homes, burning them at
> the end. The little parish church was the only sanctuary and Poleksija
> became the hero who saved many from death and hunger. The courtyard was full
> of weak and exhausted people who hardly managed to reach the little church
> hiding in the gardens and cellars from the extremists. Poleksija was sure
> that God would not let them down and urged the people to pray in the church
> and light the candles to the Holy Virgin.
>
>           One day, KLA burst into the church compound and began searching
> the people.Thank to God's mercy they did not hurt anyone as Italians were
> close. All other Serbs who prefered to remain in their houses suffered a
> much worse fate. Some disappeared and some were found massacred in their
> homes in the most brutal ways. The Italian soldiers very soon secured the
> church yard and stretched barbed
> wire around the compound to prevent Albanian extremists to attack the
> people. International Red Cross organized evacuation of all who wanted to
> leave the city and go to Central Serbia or Montenegro. Poleksija remained
> and with her five other elderly women who decided to stay close to their
> church in which they had been baptized and had prayed all their life. These
> were: Vasiljka Peric, Nada Isailovic, Ljubica Miovic, Jelena Miovic and
> Dragica Nikolic, all in their sixties and seventies.
>
>           The story of each of these brave women is distressing because as
> if by some miracle they managed to excape slaughter or rape by the
> Albanians. "The KLA criminals put the pistol on my forehead and said that
> they would blow my head up. I was so afraid and just told them to do what
> they want" said Nada Isailovic who was thrown out of her home near the old
> bus station and found refuge in the house of her brother near the church.
> She still sleeps overnight in that house which has been almost completely
> looted by the Albanians.
> The Italians assigned a few guards to protect her and escort her to the
> church compound where she spends the day with the other women. "Whenever I
> pass the street they shout and curse", Nada complained, "and once they hit
> me with a stone in my head". "Cars with Albanian registration plates used to
> come in dozens in the Serb street and drag away all Serb possessions,
> furniture, clothes, TV sets....simply everything. At the end they would
> usually set fire and run away", Nada remembers those first days.
>
>           "KFOR did not seem to be ready to have troubles with them, so they
> would usually turn the blind eye to what was happening", added another
> elderly women in tears.
>
>           Dragica Nikolic seems to be the most depressed because she was
> beaten by Albanian youths, dragged out of her old house and forced to watch
> her home burn. She speaks almost nothing and only hopes to die peacefully in
> her home town. Despite almost desperate situation in which these women live
> they do not lack the spirit. Poleksija is the spiritus movens of the group
> and her composed and calm behavior and quiet optimism in the Lord's
> protection gives hope to others who struggle to endure the hatred which can
> be felt all around them.
>
>           Since they cannot leave their little church yard these women
> completely depend on Italian soldiers who gradually established very good
> and cordial relations with the ladies. They often make cakes and coffee for
> them and treat them as their children. In return the Italians buy food for
> the women. They give them money and the soldiers go to a neighboring shop to
> buy things. Of course, they must never say that it is for the Serbs,
> otherwise the shopkeepers would not sell it.
>
>           Quite close to the church there is a little shop which used to
> belong to the church and was run by one Albanian shopkeeper. Now the owner
> is a new person and he does not think of returning the property to the
> church. "You see this dog, Poleksija said,... well this is our dog and
> Albanians recognize him and hit him with a brick when he leaves our
> courtyard. The other dog belongs to Italians and they know it, and would not
> by any chance hit the Italian dog". Even dogs suffer in this strange
> surrounding. In the beginning the Albanian youths would throw garbage over
> the wall into our churchyard. "Once, Poleksija says, we heard an explosion
> and could see that a hand grenade exploded right in the back yard. Thank God
> it did not
> hurt anyone". After these incidents Italians installed three watchtowers
> around the church yard which now resembles a little fortress, with barbed
> wire, reflectors and guards watching closely from their watch towers with
> machine guns.
>
>           Poleksija tells that some of their Albanian neighbors are good
> people. "But they are afraid to death from extremists to help us openly. I
> know for sure that all of them do not hate us. We have not done any harm to
> anyone and just want to remain close to our church". But even this for
> Kosovo Serbs in today's "Free Kosovo" is very difficult and dangerous.
> Around 100.000 Serbs still live scattered in several military protected
> enclaves all over the province. Some enclaves are ghettoes, like in
> Orahovac, some are geographically isolated from Albanian areas by mountains
> and rivers. But out of these protected zones there are no freedom and rights
> for the Serbs. If
> they do not travel military armored vehicles, no one can guarantee safety to
> them. Anyone can be killed at the spot and the perpetrators would usually
> never be found, because the conspiracy of silence rules in Kosovo.
>
> Although not all Kosovo Albanians would approve of attacks on
> Serbs,extremists still rule the province in the background. The recently
> elected municipal structures are usually just toys in the hands of powerful
> narco-bosses and mafia who have established their network all around Kosovo,
> Albania, Western Macedonia and even Montenegro.
>
> International troops do not have authorization to fight organized crime and
> terrorism but only provide general security which is far from enough to
> grant true peace and freedom for all. That is why international peace
> mission in Kosovo is more or less hostage of the Albanian extremists and
> criminals who could easily turn their guns against their former war-friends
> if they feel that they are loosing their support.
>
>           Visoki Decani Monastery has taken a special obligation to take
> care of Djakovica "grannies" as they are called by monks. The monks visit
> them at least once a week coming by the Italian military vehicles and bring
> them food, medicines, firewood and other necessities. They serve liturgies
> in the church every Sunday and feast days when the grannies receive the Holy
> Communion. From time to time they take the "grannies" out of their besieged
> home to spend a day in Visoki Decani Monastery or in Pec Patriarchate which
> themselves are enclaves, but somewhat larger and situated in more pleasant
> natural surrounding of the western Kosovo forests and mountains. With Decani
> monks the "grannies" sometimes go to Central Serbia to visit their
> relatives. But they always come back to their church where they say they
> feel the best.
>
>           Poleksija herself rarely leaves her church. She is like a guardian
> who is always awake to chase away the intruders with her firm faith and
> prayer. All day long she spends in the church, reading prayers, cleaning the
> floor,polishing candlesticks, burning incense in front of icons. "The icon
> of St Nicholas, the patron saint, began exuding the fragrant myrrh, the
> substance which sometimes fills the church with heavenly fragrance", she
> explained to the monks. "This gives us even more hope that our spiritual
> struggle is God pleasing", she concluded with a shy smile. "International
> humanitarian organizations rarely visit the old Serb church in Djakovica.
> Some of them who were sincere confessed that they are afraid that Albanians
> will target them as Serb friends", Poleksija said with a sigh. "I understand
> that some of them are afraid, some of them have prejudices against us...
> Never mind, God sends us nevertheless everything we
> need".
>
>           Some international officials would come to Poleksija and ask her
> whether she would leave Djakovica, because obviously there was no life for
> Serbs there. Poleksija would always refuse to answer such questions. It is
> not a secret that some international humanitarian organizations in Kosovo
> actively urged Serbs to leave Kosovo. Now they want prepare them for the
> "elections" so that in ethnically Albanian Djakovica they may have
> "multiethnic" elections".  With so few Serbs and members of other ethnic
> minorities Kosovo today is far from the professed concept of democratic and
> multiethnic society. The
> international community intervened by bombing FRY in order to stop ethnic
> cleansing of the Albanians, but at the end found itself a helpless witness
> of a reversed ethnic cleansing, happening not in the chaos of war but in the
> presence of 40.000 best equipped NATO soldiers.
>
>           Although international press usually brings news of improvement of
> life in Kosovo, the situation on the ground is not getting better and the
> stories like this one would never reach the front pages.
>
>           The decreasing number of crimes is not a consequence of the
> improvement of security, but of the mere fact that majority of non-Albanians
> live completely isolated from the ethnic Albanian majority which remains as
> hostile and intolerant as in the first days. Such ghettos and isolated
> enclaves would be front page stories in the time of Milosevic rule but now
> are carefully avoided by journalists and politicians from the West.
>
>           As the sun goes down above Djakovica, disappearing in the distant
> hills of the neighboring Republic of Albania, Poleksija lights the candles
> and vigil lamps for her evening prayer. For her, one day more has passed and
> one day more she is closer to her beloved Lord. The bells of the old Serb
> church toll a sad chime, reverberating among the neighboring ruins of the
> Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of the Holy Trinity which remains diginified even
> in her ruins.   When the Cathedral was destroyed by the local Albanians in
> summer 1999,
> after the arrival of UN Mission and KFOR, all the city was celebrating with
> music.
>
>           "We were not afraid but constantly said our prayers, knowing that
> they can destroy the church, but can never expell the Lord from the hearts
> of his faithful ones...Poleksija whispered, making sign of the cross.
>
>           Text by Decani Monks of Visoki Decani Monastery
>
>           --------------------------------------------------------------
>           HOW TO HELP?
>
>           For all additional information about the assistance to the Serb
> women of Djakovica through the Church contact:
>           Visoki Decani Monastery (hieromonk Sava) mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>           Get informed about the Decani Monastery Relief Fund in US which
> has been supporting the suffering people of Kosovo and Metohija in last
> three years thanks to donations of many God loving people all over the
> world. Regular reports issued on the Internet by Fr. Demetrios Serfes (US).
>
>

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