Hugh, I figured you mean't Chateau. Chateau can only be applied pre-bud
break (silver tip for apple) or by extension, presumably in the fall after
harvest. Dave, Venue (Nichino) has a supplemental label specific for sucker
"management" in pome and stone fruit. It works best when tank-mixed with
another contact herbicide such as paraquat (Gramoxone) or
glufosinate-ammonium (Rely). (Or glyphosate, but I know how much you love
that stuff!) As always, avoid direct contact to the tree trunk,
particularly young trees, with any contact herbicide to avoid long-term
injury to the tree.

Jon

On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 11:02 PM, Hugh Thomas <hughthoma...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone,
> By mistake I made the comment that  Chaparral was effective against apple
> suckers, I should have said, "Chateau" is effective. Sorry about the
> mix-up...
>
> On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 1:20 PM, Hugh Thomas <hughthoma...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> David,
>> My Chaparral label does mention apple. I don't have access to the label
>> at the moment, but I will in a few days. This herbicide is also very
>> effective in weed control in your strips. I now spray once with Chaparral
>> and maybe once with roundup rather than 4-6 times with roundup. (per
>> season) I'm sure if you contact Dow they will fill you in. I'll get a
>> chance to read my label and get back to you in a few days. Also,
>> consider Paraquat. This is a very effective material for sucker burn down.
>> I think Paraquat is also labeled for apple.
>> Hugh
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 12:05 PM, David A. Rosenberger <da...@cornell.edu>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>  Hello, Hugh —
>>>
>>>  I was interested in your comment about controlling apple root suckers
>>> with Chaparral herbicide because root suckers have become a major headache
>>> in some of our older research plots.  However, when I checked the Chaparral
>>> label on the CDMS website, I can’t find any label that includes apples. Do
>>> you have a special state label for apples, or were you thinking of a
>>> different herbicide?
>>>
>>>  The Chaparral labels that I found indicate that it is not registered
>>> at all in NY (no big surprise), but I’m still curious about products that
>>> might be used for chemical control of root suckers in other states.
>>> However, given all of the warnings on the Chaparral label about long-term
>>> residual effects, even in hay from treated fields, I’m wondering about
>>> long-term side effects on apples even if it were labeled.
>>>
>>>  On Jan 1, 2015, at 1:38 PM, Hugh Thomas <hughthoma...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>  Steven,
>>> This is off point, but as an aside, I have found suckers (Bud 9) to
>>> weaken when sprayed with the herbicide Chaparral. This is a pre emergent
>>> but is labeled for suckers on apple. The effect is a severe weakening of
>>> the sucker roots and they are very easy to pull a couple of weeks after the
>>> spray. This is only anecdotal evidence and my personal experience.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 7:49 AM, Steven Bibula <sbib...@maine.rr.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>  Is there any information on the long term value of pre-planting
>>>> sucker reduction?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On some apple (and peach) rootstocks that arrive from the nursery, I
>>>> have seen what appear to be cream-colored, corm-like ‘nodes’ at various
>>>> locations on the roots themselves as well as the lower portions of the
>>>> central portion; these all pop off relatively freely when wiggled.  I have
>>>> also seen suckers up to a few inches long as well.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Are these nodes the origination points of future sucker growth, or just
>>>> suckers that are already on their way?  Do suckering rootstocks simply
>>>> sucker from almost anywhere along their buried material, from dormant
>>>> sucker buds scattered all over?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> For sucker control over the life of the planting, is there any benefit
>>>> to manually removing these nodes and growing suckers?  Or would that only
>>>> reduce the suckering for the spring of the planting year?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I am planning to plant a lot of heavily-suckering Bud 9 and B.9/MM.111,
>>>> and if long term benefits of removing these nodes are worth the one-time
>>>> effort before planting, then I will do the work.  The hardest suckers to
>>>> control are the ones right up next to the trunk, and any permanent sucker
>>>> reduction would be nice on these heavily suckering rootstocks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I hope someone has done the research and is willing to educate ignorant
>>>> folk such as I.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Grateful in advance,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Steven Bibula
>>>>
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-- 
Jon Clements
aka 'Mr Honeycrisp'
UMass Cold Spring Orchard
393 Sabin St.
Belchertown, MA  01007
413-478-7219
umassfruit.com
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