>  As I understand it, earthworm castings produce a reliable, well-balanced tea
>  and also facilitate homeopathic herbal and mineral additions. Isn't this
>  compost a good, somewhat easy to replicate material that would make it
>  easier to test out the  effectiveness of various additions to the mix?  Any
>  problems surfacing with using earthworm compost tea?
>
>  Thanks so much Allan for setting this opportunity up!

I too thank Allan for setting this up.  I enjoy the opportunity.

Do you mind if I get into worm compost debates a bit deeply here? 
What is "worm
castings", versus "worm compost"?  To be a stickler, castings are ONLY the
material that is processed by the worms, through their digestive system.  No
matter how many worms you have in a bin, you CANNOT be assured that 
every bit of
that material was processed by the worms through their guts.  Only if you sieve
the material coming out of a worm bin, such that you have only the 
little poops,
would you know that you have pure castings.  So, what is sold is really worm
compost, not pure castings.

What makes worm castings (I'm focusing on the poops right now, not along with
the other stuff that isn't processed) such wonderful stuff?  The earthworm gut
is a quite interesting place.

The evidence I have seen is that worms themsleves do not make the enzymes to
break down organic matter.  Worms do not contain the DNA to make the enzymes to
break down organic matter.  Therefore, what is it that worms are eating?  The
muscles of the earthworms grind soil particles together in the digestive
systems, and crush, grind up and otherwise physically break open the bacteira,
fungi, protozoa, nematodes and microarthropods in the soil the worm consumes.
Do they crush ALL the bodies.  No.  Alot of them?  Yes.  The really susceptible
populations of bacteria and fungi appear to be the human pathogens, probably
because they are typically large cells with delicate cell walls and membranes.
Fungal pathogens appear to be quite susceptible to being destroyed by passage
through the earthworm gut.

But that's not the best part of the worm digestive system!  The worm 
absorbs the
crushed cells of all these organisms, but then in the back end of the worm, we
have some really super bacteral and perhaps fungi species that hang out there,
and inoculate all that wonderful food stuff, so the castings are chock full of
beneficial bacterial and fungal species.

What goes in the front end of a worm is modified and improved in many ways.
Clive Edwards at Ohio State is trying to show that there are lots of plant
growth hormones, or plant growth promoters (PGPs) in worm castings, but he has
yet to do a really well-controlled sicentific experiment that demonstrates that
worm castings have these material in high concentration.  I have no doubt that
they are in worm castings, but, the science must be well-done to show that worm
castings and thus the worm compost, contain significantly higher amounts of
growth promoters than soil itself.
If you have a really healthy soil, are the same growth promoters made?  So why
fuss with worms?  Ah, but is it easier to get lots of PGPs when high numbers of
worms are present?  Probably.  So.....

Well, you can see where this would be of interest to plant people.  Worms are
merely ways to control the beneficial populations and get rid of the bad
populations.

Now, lets move on to the other stuff that isn't processed by the worms, i.e.,
does not actually go through the worm gut.  That could still have pathogens in
it, right?  Ah, but because the worms move through the material, even though
that material is fairly wet, they leave behind them air passageways.  Worms are
little, itty, bitty mixers, teeny-tiny plows, if you will.  They aerate the
material quite well.

What is the minimum amount of aeration needed?  It depedns on how much high
nitrogen-containing, simple sugar food resources you have thrown in the bin.
The higher the juicy, easy-to-use N and sugars in the bin, the more worms you
need to keep up the aeration so the bacteria and fungi don't use up the oxygen
in the compost and drive metabolism into the anaerobic range.  Anaerobic means
all kinds of plant toxic compounds being made, and the possibility that human
bacterial pathogens and plant fungal pathogens are going to grow and 
out-compete
the beneficial organisms.

How wet can a worm compost be before it starts to go anaerobic?  Depends on the
number of worms, and how fast the bacteria and fungi are growing.  I've seen
worm bins at 80% moisture that make great worm compost, and some at that
moisture that make terrible compost.  I've seen worm bins at 30% moisture that
make terrible compost.  Not enough moisture and the worms just won't do their
job.  Too few worms at high moisture and the "compost" stinks to high heaven.

So, balance is the key.  A few factors that you have to keep in mind 
- moisture,
food quality, presence of good bacteria and fungi, worm density.  The more
worms, the faster the processing, the more food you can add to the bins and the
wetter you can keep it.  What causes worms to die off?  Oh boy, there's a
complex topic.  The wrong kinds of foods added to the bins, not enough "chunk"
to the foods so air does get limiting, not enough paper or cardboard, 
too little
water, etc.  Temperature plays a part only in that there is a top range and a
minimum range.  The worms work faster as temperature increases, up to the point
they start to die when it gets too hot.

So, please understand that worm compost can be really good, and it 
can be really
bad.  No panacea here.  You must pay attention to the quality of the product,
how it was produced, the way it feels, smells, and insist that the 
producer show
you the biological data and the chemical data.

If the manure going into the worm bin is high in salt, the compost will be high
in salt.  The manure will be high in salt if the animals are being fed
pelletized foods, so use small amounts of that kind of manure.  You can use
normal amounts of manure from animals that are fed grass, grain (be careful of
high protein coming through if fed too high grain content however, you have to
balance with high paper, cardboard, stalk and stems of plants) .

Can worm compost be as variable as thermal compost?  Yes.  It's just 
less likely
to be as consistently variable.  Thermal compost varies from batch to batch
because hte starting materials going in are quite variable.  If the starting
materials are exactly the same, but percentages of the different materials are
varied, the results can still be variable.  We have data from a big study with
the City of Eugene, OR that we'll be publishing soon.  (there's a relative term
for you - what do you mean by soon?  I mean we'll start the publishing process
in June or July, after analyzing the data, writing up the paper, and you could
expect to see the pub in about 2 years.  That's why I have the e-zine.  I can
talk about results before they ae officially published).

But your implied question is relative to thermal compost.  Is worm compost more
consistent than thermal.  Yes.  So, given a source of good worm compost, use
it.  I tend to mix 10 - 50% thermal compost with 50 to 90% worm compost to make
tea, so I increase the diversity of organisms in the tea.

Hope this answers your question!  If not, try again!

Elaine Ingham

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