Re: introduction and a WHOLE lotta questions

[Manfred Palmer]

Hi Woody: Yes, it's preferable to make the compost outside, incorporating other material, and in shaped mounds. I guess i didn't assume that there was a frontend loader on hand, or barn-access for such. And, sensing the broad ambitions/schedule of Jennifer and her husband, didn't assume this major effort should be prioritized by considerable handwork. Having cleaned out a 5-foot deep 15-yr-old sheep-barn by hand, (before i knew about BD or composting) i know what a chore it is, ...again... depending on how compacted it is.  If there was much straw used, in regular intervals, I believe there would be enough aeration. Certainly, in order to heat up, and moisten the existing pile, a chicken manure slurry could be diluted and dribbled all over it..... several times, even poking holes throughout with a long bar to get a feel of the heap's consistency. The other caution i had before knowing that they do have 11goats, is that once you remove that insulating layer from a concrete barn floor, you open it up to frost-heaving at this time of year.... a common mistake by firstime farmers. ( but i don't know how cold it gets in Kentucky). And with the 11 goats, a new layer could be started. Mind you, if it has a dirt floor, there's your extra worms! I would say : do what you have the energy for by hand or machine , and work the rest in place,(even as an experimental experience! ) so you don't have to move it all, twice or more. It's much easier to handle when it's crumblier. I agree, Woody, that a 2-acre planted garden the first year, is a heap'o'work. Understanding Jennifer's intention to do a CSA, it still wouldnt be too much to cultivate that extra at the same time... planting the first veggies in a half acre.... but prepping the rest of the designated 2 for the next seasons with sown cover-crop (unless there is already something suitable in place). Especially if there are any variations in drainage characteristics, it would prudently give more ready choice for alternate rotations... as the ensuing seasons bring their moisture-level clues, and you have to act quickly especially if you have obligations to a csa. As we see, each known clue can influence our perspective re your ..circumspective.. ongoing creative process, Jennifer. To quote John Phibrick about 30 yrs ago, when i was just starting: Never plant a larger garden than your spouse can handle!! ........manfred   ----- Original Message ----- From: Aurora Farm To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 10:11 PM Subject: Re: introduction and a WHOLE lotta questions Jennifer:   Others have talked about more global issues...the weeds and what they tell, soil tests, etc.  Since I've mainly been a gardener, let me talk about that two acres you have in mind to garden.  Don't worry about soil tests with that precious patch.  You will so improve the soil on that small scale endeavor over the next couple of years that a soil test now will be meaningless.  COMPOST, COMPOST, COMPOST is the answer to your need to supply wholesome food for your family.   Now rethink your need for a 2-acre garden this season...you don't need that much land to grow family food--even if you strive for and eventually achieve 95 percent of your table needs.  Think more in terms of a half acre this year. That is doable with hand tools, after an initial plowing and harrowing.  Concentrate on a half acre--that's roughly 100'x200'.  Done intensively, with raised beds, you can grow food for two or three families on, that 20,000 square feet.  Say 40% of that is paths and tractor turnaround space, and you've got 12,000 square feet of bed space, 80 beds 50 feet long.  2 beds for salad, 6 for root crops, many for soft fruit, 2-5 for tomatoes and peppers, 10 for winter squash, 15 for grain and beans, including sweet corn, 2-4 for garlic and onions, the equivalent of at least 5 for flowers, [though flowers shold be interspersed throughout the vegetables], a couple more beds for extras I'm maybe not thinking of.  This much space will give you surplus to sell and plenty to can, freeze, dry.   Manfred mentioned adding the compost preps to the goat manure in place.  I disagree.  I would somehow get that stuff out of the barn and into a proper, aerated pile.  Odds are it's very compacted, and though it's true that the forces of the preps would radiate throughout the compacted manure, you're going to have to get the stuff into shape to use, so you might as well break it up with picks and shovels [or a frontloader?] and get it outside where the worms will get into it.    A 50' long bed could easily use a cubic yard [one cubic foot every 2 feet, say, or a wheelbarrow load every 4 feet] this first year, so you see the imperative to get going now.   As for books, the explanation of Biodynamics and the Steiner preparations in "Secrets of the Soil" is superb.   Get your preps now, from Josephine Porter Institute.  You need barrel compost, horn manure, horn silica, and sets of compost preps.  Call there and tell them what you're doing, and they will advise what you need.  Be aware that the future of the preparations in the U.S. is in grave question, so buy as much as you can afford for this a future years.   I was born and raised in northern Kentucky, and had my first farm in Woodford County, so I have a pretty good idea of the climate and can advise you on your timing for this self-sufficiency garden.  Key question, you don't mention a greenhouse.  Do you have any possibility for one, or extensive, sunny space in the house where you can raise plants from seed?  You can add 10 weeks or more to your gardening season with even a funky greenhouse.   Consider getting a cow.   Blessings,   Oh...and start with good seed!   Woody and Barbara Aurora Farm is the only unsubsidized, family-run seed farm in North America offering garden seeds grown using Rudolf Steiner's methods of spiritual agriculture.  http://www.kootenay.com/~aurora