I successfully soldered a JTAG connector to an Element 14 rev C board on my 
first attempt and I am by no means a pro with a soldering iron. I placed a 
small amount of solder on the bottom side of the connector first. Then I held 
the connector in place with a clamp so that there was pad showing off the end 
of each foot of the connector. I had my soldering iron hot enough to melt the 
solder in less than a second. I also dabbed on extra solder quite liberally at 
the toe of each foot onto the exposed pad. I removed the clamp after the first 
couple o pins so that I could get at the pins better. Then used solder wick to 
remove all the excess solder. There were at least 3 places with solid bridges. 
I inspected with 20x magnification. Then removed the tiny bridges I didn't see 
before with more solder wick. Cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol. It's not 
exactly pretty but worked on the first try. 

Later tonight I can tell you the exact solder I was using and the temperature I 
had my soldering iron set to.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2015, at 12:32 AM, Claud Xiao <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I tried to solder ARM20cTI20 JTAG connectors with Element14’s BBB but failed, 
> twice (hence two boards broken). After some investigations, I think it’s not 
> my fault but is manufacturer’s problem. Element14’s version and CircuitCo’s 
> version are really different in this issue. 
> 
> As you may know, BBB hasn’t JTAG interface on board unless you manually 
> solder an extra ARM20cTI20 connector to its P2. There’re some tutorials on 
> how to do that:
> http://www.tincantools.com/wiki/Flyswatter2_BeagleBone_Black_How_To
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JmHn7aN2FU
> 
> I have lot of experiences in soldering and never failed before. But this time 
> is different. Although I strictly followed these tutorials, no matter how 
> long I keep the soldering iron on the connector’s pins to heat adherent 
> solder, the solder on the pin will never glue with the P2. I tried many times 
> and some other methods (even with different kinds of solder irons) but 
> stilled no success. I also tried to directly paste some solder to P2 but it’s 
> pretty hard to adhere to. Some solder even became sphere other than adhere 
> the bottom pins. Anyway, now two boards’ P2 were destroyed while two 
> ARM20cTI20 connectors was consumed away. 
> 
> After carefully compare images/video in tutorials with the boards I have, I 
> found the main difference is, there isn’t any solder covered P2 pins in my 
> boards. 
> 
> Let’s take a look at Adafruit’s pictures on BBB:
> CircuitCo’s version: http://www.adafruit.com/products/1876 (out of stock)
> Element14’s version: http://www.adafruit.com/products/1996
> 
> And in SeeedStudio:
> CircuitCo’s version: 
> http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/BeagleBone-Black-p-1505.html (not rev C)
> Element14’s version: 
> http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/Embest-BeagleBone-Black-RevC-Singleboard-Computer-p-1860.html
> 
> Take a look at P2 on the back of the board. There’s a huge difference that 
> CircuitCo’s P2 pins are covered by solder while Element14’s are not. Note 
> that all tutorials used CircuitCo’s version. I also highly doubt Element14’s 
> pins are covered by some solder mask which prevent the solder’s adherent. 
> 
> My question is,
> 
> 1) Is there anyone who successfully soldered it on Element14’s BBB before? If 
> you are, how do you achieve that? 
> 
> 2) Is there any way to buy CircuitCo’s BBB rev C? At least Amazon, Adafruit, 
> SeeedStudio, Sparkfun are not. MakerShed’s picture is CircuitCo’s but it 
> hasn’t any manufacturer information. Consider that Sparkfun’s picture is also 
> CircuitCo’s but their products are Element14’s, I don’t think picture is 
> trustworthy.
> 
> Thanks your guys!
> - Claud
> 
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