I forgot to mention... the STPS140A diode used on this board will drop another 200-500mV across it. So that means your battery's voltage should be at least 3.7V for the LDO + 500mV lost in the diode. This voltage is higher than what your battery will provide except at full charge. So that must be why they removed the ability to run wifi off the battery. Based on this info you can try this instead: remove D3 and D4, then install a wire or 0 ohm resistor in place of D2. That will connect the PMIC VSYS output to the Wilink part so you can always run the wifi on battery, AC, or USB.
On Friday, July 21, 2017 at 6:48:46 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote: > > I would move either D3 or D4 and place it in the spot where D2 should be. > That would allow the WiFi to work whether you're on USB, AC, or LiPo. There > are some limitations here though. If a large enough power surge occurs on > the WiFi chip then the PMIC might think there's a short circuit due to the > large power draw and it will restart the board. The other limitation is > that you can never discharge your battery below 3.6V to 3.7V. To output > 3.3V from the TL1963A power regulator it requires at least 3.6V to 3.7V at > the input. I think this second point is the main reason D2 was removed > because setting a 3.7V minimum for your battery is very limiting. If your > battery is large enough to last a while before reaching that point I would > install D2 and be happy. > -- For more options, visit http://beagleboard.org/discuss --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "BeagleBoard" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/beagleboard/fbe667be-e428-4625-bd9e-0768a2919e54%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
