Bleeding of Colors: Your red shirt got mixed in with other clothes and ruined 
them? First off, DON'T DRY THEM! Wash again with regular detergent and 
color-safe bleach. If that didn't work, Rit(r), the makers of clothes dye, 
makes a color remover that works wonders and doesn't cost much. To prevent 
bleeding in the first place, wash in cold water; I also use a cup of salt OR a 
scoop of Oxi Clean(r) with every load.
Blood on Clothes: Pour hydrogen peroxide on blood and rinse with cold water. If 
some blood remains, repeat. (Submitted by Michele Dutcher)
Burn / Scorch Marks: If the fabric is washable, brush it gently with a soft 
brush or dry sponge to remove loose carbon particles. Then, wash the fabric 
with regular detergent and color-safe bleach. This will permanently weaken the 
fabric even more than the scorch has, but the scorch may no longer be 
noticeable.
Burnt Stuff on Iron: Rub iron with aluminum foil to remove burnt on starch, etc.
Deodorant Stains on the Underarms of Washable Shirts: Sponge on white vinegar 
(or soak stain in it); wait 30 minutes. Launder shirts in the hottest water 
safe for the fabric. Using an enzyme detergent or a detergent with bleach 
alternative check care labels to be sure this is okay). I sometimes put liquid 
laundry detergent right on the area, leave it for five to ten minutes, then 
wash. To prevent: Let deodorant dry before dressing. And don't let stains sit! 
Apply prewash spray or liquid detergent ASAP, then launder. Every third or 
fourth washing, use the hottest water safe for the shirts.
Down Comforters / Jackets: These can, indeed, be washed rather than dry 
cleaned. Any stains, such as the grime on the cuffs of a jacket, should be 
spot-cleaned with a pre-treater, then rinsed with water. Wash the item in the 
gentle cycle with mild detergent. The key is to ensure the down is rinsed 
extremely well. Then, place in the dryer rather than line drying. This allows 
the feathers to plump up again. Place large knotted towels or tennis balls in 
the dryer with it to help fluff the down. The only caution is, if the item has 
weak seams or fragile fabric it could "explode" and leave you with only down. 
If there are stains remaining, place it (on a blanket) outdoors in full 
sunshine for a day or two. This often helps. If not, at least your comforter 
will have that outdoor fresh smell. (Submitted by Koilaf and michelle6802)
Dryer Tip: Include a few tennis balls in each dryer cycle. The tennis balls not 
only cut drying time by 25% - 50%, but also fluff the clothes to a delicate 
softness, and towels with be especially fluffy. (Submitted by a site visitor)
Fabric Softener: I have been using an old dish towel as a fabric softener 
sheet. I pour a couple of capfuls of Downey on it and throw it in the dryer. It 
has taken over a year to go thru a bottle of (small) Downey fabric softener. I 
add more Downey about every 15 loads or just when I notice a little static. It 
helps to use a towel that is distinct from the other laundry. I use a pink 
towel, which is a one of a kind in our house. (Submitted by a site visitor)
Fading: Turn dark clothes inside out and wash in the coolest water possible; 
dry on lowest heat. For all-black clothes and linens, throw in a box of black 
Rit(r) dye every 8-10 washes or so to keep black clothes black.
Foggy Mirrors and Glass: Spray a generous amount of good ol' fashioned shaving 
cream (not gel) onto the mirror or window and rub in with a clean cloth. Use a 
new clean cloth until all streaks are gone. This will prevent fogging as long 
as you don't wipe or clean the glass.
Gasoline On Clothing: Gasoline is an oil based product, therefore, use another 
oil based product to pull out the odor (which is left because all the gas oil 
has not been removed yet). You can use any kind of oil that normally washes out 
of clothing, like baby oil. Put some of the oil into the washer along with the 
clothes, let it swish around for a while, then put in the detergent and all 
should come out okay. Be sure not to use a dryer to dry these clothes, as it 
could cause a fire.
General Stain Removal for Clothing: Read the label! If it says dry-clean only, 
dry-clean it. If it's washable, try cleaning fluid, spot remover, or 
petroleum-based pre-wash spray. Place garment stain side down on paper towels 
and dab cleaner on stain using a terry-cloth towel or scrub brush. Check paper 
towels underneath and move frequently so there's always a clean area under the 
stain to absorb soil. Let area dry and check it. If stain remains, treat with 
prewash spray and launder. Before drying, check again. Still visible? Repeat 
steps.
Glitter on Clothing: That new sparkly shirt shedding glitter all over the 
place? Spray with aerosol hair spray to make it stay put. Wash separately from 
other clothes, or at least wash it inside out if you must wash with other 
articles of clothing.
Grease Stains: Sprinkle a generous amount of cornstarch or baby powder over the 
grease stain, allow it to sit for a couple of minutes, then brush the powder 
off. The powder absorbs the grease and it brushes off with the powder.
Gum On Clothing: Use egg whites to remove gum on clothing. Brush egg white onto 
gum with a toothbrush. Let sit for 15 minutes and then launder on the items 
normally.
Ink Stains: The best way I have found to get out ink stains is to put rubbing 
alcohol on the stain - it disappears! This must be done before washing. 
(Submitted by Darvin Mossing)
Laundry Basket Freshener: Place a fabric softener sheet in the bottom of your 
laundry basket (remember to change it weekly.) You can also simply sprinkle 
some baking soda in the bottom of your basket and that will help absorb the 
odors as well.
Linen Closet: In the linen closet, place cotton balls that have been sprayed 
with your favorite scent. Once they are dry, place them in corners and on the 
shelves.
Lint: Keep lint off dark clothes by not washing them with towels, washcloths, 
dishrags, etc. This is where a majority of the lint comes from and it's just 
easier to eliminate them. (Submitted by michelle6802) Another way to get lint 
to stay off clothes in the washer is to add 1 cup distilled white vinegar to 
the load with the detergent.
Lipstick: Use petroleum jelly for removing lipstick stains. Another possibility 
is to rub in a little vegetable shortening and then launder as normal.
Mildew Stains: Shake or brush the item to remove loose growth. Presoak in cold 
water. Wash in hot water with heavy duty detergent. For whites, add 1/2 cup 
bleach. If colored, use color-safe bleach. If staining remains on white items, 
repeat washing before drying. Dry thoroughly; heat and sun tend to kill mildew.
Mothball Alternative: A better idea than using mothballs is to take your 
leftover soap slivers and put them in a vented plastic bag. You place the bag 
with seasonal clothes before packing them away. Not only will the scent prevent 
them from moth harm but also they'll smell great when you pull them out. I 
especially like this for sweaters, which can be difficult to remove the odor of 
mothballs from. Using soap you simply have a clean smell rather than the smell 
of an attic.
Mothball Odors: This odor is a hard one to get rid of. Your first step is 
ventilation - air out larger items outside for a day or two; for clothes, fluff 
in the dryer with fabric softener sheets for a couple of hours. Odor removers 
such as Febreeze(r) may help. If an entire room or closet is affected, place 
trays of activated charcoal (available in pet supply stores) in the corners of 
the rooms to absorb the smell.
Panty Hose / Nylons: To stop a run in panty hose, dab nail polish over the run; 
clear polish is best, for obvious reasons, but any color will do. To strengthen 
nylons, spray with aerosol hair spray when you first put them on.
Perspiration Stains/Odor: Soak the stained shirt in equal parts ammonia and 
water and add a few Tbls. of liquid dish soap overnight. Then, wash the shirts 
as usual.
Rust and Mineral Stains: Add 1 cup of bottled lemon juice in the wash to remove 
discoloration from cotton laundry.
Soiled Shirt Collars: Take a small paintbrush and brush hair shampoo into 
soiled shirt collars before laundering. Shampoo is made to dissolve body oils.
Spaghetti Stains: Wet the fabric and then sprinkle with powdered dish 
detergent. Scrub gently with a toothbrush. Rinse the item and launder normally.
Sour Smelling Towels: Whenever possible, always use bleach when washing towels. 
If this is not possible (for colored towels), pour a cup of white vinegar or 
1/4 cup Febreeze(r) into the washer with the towels and detergent. Never 
overload the washer with too many towels (or clothes, for that matter), as they 
will not have room to agitate and clean thoroughly. Never let a washed, wet 
load of laundry of any kind sit in the washer for long; dry as soon as 
possible. For a towel you are currently using, hang it in a fashion that will 
allow it to dry completely between uses; if thrown on the floor in a ball or 
folded over a towel bar, it can quickly mildew and the smell is hard to get rid 
of.
Travel Saver: Whenever you travel carry along a stain pretreatment stick. 
Taking the time to use it on stains before they set ensures that they will wash 
out when you get home.

White-Out / Liquid Paper and Permanent Marker Stains: Dab some sunscreen over 
the stain and rub off with a paper towel. Repeat until stain is gone.

Yellowed / Grayed Whites: Rit(r), the makers of clothes dye, makes a white-wash 
that works well for bleachable and non-bleachable clothing that has yellowed or 
grayed. You can also hang yellowed clothes out to dry whenever possible to 
reduce the yellow.

Zippers: To make a zipper slide up and down more smoothly, rub a bar of soap 
over the teeth.


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