Thanks Dale and rj!  Excellent information!

I think we may try the spot repair, cleaning, and resealing first.  
I'm not sure how thrilled we'd be about trying to get out the old 
grout for new grout... with a baby on the way, we have to keep the 
dust down (I remember the first time we had this done it seemed like 
the dust supply was endless for months).  I do still have a bag of 
the original mix for the grout for some repairs and I do have a few 
extra tiles, but I'm not sure the smashed tiles are bad enough to 
warrant all the trouble of replacing them... I might can slip some 
grout in the cracks since the tiles are the lightest gray 
immaginable... white would barely show.

And as of today, my husband will be taking a job in Chicago, so we 
will be selling this house in a matter of months.  If I was staying, 
I'd consider huge amounts of work like regrouting... but with us 
leaving, I think I'll let the new owners deal with it!

Now... since I HAVE to finish my kitchen now... do you think I can 
install the toekick with just some liquid nails?  Drilling and 
nailing through that laminated particle board is a nightmare... do 
you think the liquid nails would be sufficient?

Thanks, Sarah

--- In [email protected], "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> I think it was RJ had good information, you can remove the grout 
or just 
> take it down with a carbide tipped knife then clean the loose out 
of the 
> cracks and renew the grout in any colour you like. You can buy 
grout in many 
> locations, it is only a form of cement. You apply it and pack it 
tightly 
> down into the cracks with a putty knife and a float to bang it 
down hard 
> into the cracks and with a sponge or rag wipe off the excess. 
After a little 
> time when it begins to set up you then wash the surface of the 
tiles off 
> vigorously to remove any residue otherwise it causes hazing on the 
surface 
> of the tiles. You may also want to push a dampened rag firmly 
along the 
> grout line to really close up the pours. After a couple of days 
you then go 
> over the lot with a good grout sealer. Usually a silicone product 
is most 
> satisfactory but I believe there are acrylic compounds as well.
> 
> If there are cracked and or broken tiles and you have spares they 
can be 
> removed and new ones stuck down. do not break them out at the 
grout line, 
> raising the pressure there can cause adjacent tiles to crack. A 
cold chisel 
> on the tile to be broken and a tap or two with a hammer or score 
it with a 
> carbide tipped tool and use the score line to crack then remove 
the 
> offending tile. You may need to clean out the space and if a bed 
of mastic 
> or mortar it might be necessary to build up the substrate a little 
to insure 
> the replacement tile is close to the same height as neighbours.
> 
> If you intend to do this yourself I suggest that you prepare the 
entire area 
> to be fixed but make up enough grout to work about a square yard 
at a time 
> and methodically make your way through the room. With skill you 
can do much 
> more but you don't want a batch of curing grout while you fool 
with getting 
> things right and learning the skills and you don't want to get so 
far ahead 
> that you cannot get the haze washed off, it is damn difficult to 
get rid of 
> the next day when the cement is thoroughly stuck to the finish 
surface of 
> the once pretty tiles.
> 
> If you don't plan to do the job yourself at least understand how 
it is done 
> when it is done correctly.
> 
> Now there are different finishes people select, some want the 
grout lines 
> deep to leave a little shadow but on a floor this is usually bad 
news, you 
> usually want the grout to fill the lines quite completely to 
reduce the dirt 
> collection. It also probably wants to be polished a little, use 
something 
> like a smooth thin pipe or thick wire, something that doesn't 
quite fit into 
> the grout lines and polish the grout by sliding the tool back and 
forth over 
> the surface. It is a little like floating and toweling the surface 
of 
> cement, it brings the cream to the surface which will form a less 
porous 
> surface and better resist water carrying dust down into the grout.
> 
> On a floor you will need to seal more often as the surface seal 
will wear 
> off with washing and general traffic.
> 
> I think that is probably everything I know about grouting tile. I 
hope it is 
> helpful.
> 
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Missy Mosquito" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 5:36 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Bad Tile Grout... what can be done?
> 
> 
> > Hey everyone,
> >
> > A little over a year ago, I had my entire house floors tiled. 
It's
> > certainly not the most fantastic tile (several have broken in the
> > corners already), but it's better than disgusting pink carpet!
> >
> > The original intention was for a light gray grout, so that it 
would
> > blend with the tiles and not show dirt from my messy husband and 
the
> > menagerie of animals parading around.  However, after a million
> > times of being asked to choose another color, we finally just 
told
> > the workers to put in white to get the job done.  And of course,
> > it's dirty in high traffic areas, but does come clean just fine 
with
> > a good scrubbing.  My main issue is how incredibly pourus this 
grout
> > is... dirt goes in and there's no way to get it out without using
> > forceful water (I have a strong sprayer that gets it up). Also to
> > consider is fact that the morons who put it in did a really bad
> > job.  I'm missing huge hunks of grout in a lot of places.
> >
> > My main question is... can we just have this grout cleaned very
> > thoroughly and then put on a thin layer of the correct color that
> > won't show dirt and be less pourus?  I have no idea if such a 
thing
> > is possible.  There is quite a dip in the grout lines... enough 
that
> > a mop is worthless when cleaning... I have to use the sponge 
kind on
> > it's side to get between the tiles.  I would think a reasonable
> > layer of new grout would be able to fit in there, and make it 
easier
> > to mop.  Would this new grout adhere to the old if I did this?
> >
> > And... if putting on some new grout isn't possible, what is the 
best
> > method for sealing the existing grout after it is cleaned (most
> > likely from the Stanley Steamer crew)?  I put on the sealer that 
is
> > sold at home depot, but it didn't do ANYTHING.
> >
> > Thanks, Sarah
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To listen to the show archives go to link
> > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> > or
> > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
> >
> > Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions 
>From 
> > Various List Members At The Following Address:
> > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> > Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Handy Man 
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> > -- 
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
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> > Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.4/476 - Release Date: 
14/10/2006
> >
> >
>





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