I will give you a few tips for this kind of thing. if you're an engineer or machine tech like me aand you get really involved to the point where your hands are used to the sensitivity of either sharp blades, heat from equipment, vibration etc. I find my sense of touch is grately improved through my work in the workshops and on projects including work with chainsaws and getting the perfect razer sharp chain I am able to determine the level in which the oil is on the rod by running my finger from the top of the depth rod down gently until I feel moisture on the side of my thumb. a good tip lol. don't use anything rough or abrasive as a depth check for oil as you won't easily be able to check. in terms of knowing your oil tank you should know your machine quite well. so you should be able to know when to change the oil. sniff it and get a bit on your finger and thumb and feel for a gritty texture or a strong scent. that means it's time for an oil bleed and change. using my principle of a cork gauge system with my own design, I am able to work out the oil drop in an engine. Examples: Kubota Citax welder generator: 600 amp petrol driven honda GCV900 silent engine. fuel capacity half gallon. oil capacity quarter gallon. you can often tell by feeling below the engine port for a valve to release the oil. don't open this unless bleeding it out. from there feel up to where the cap for oil is and fill to usually half way. then keep checking and topping up to say 3 quarters of the way. there you're safe with. 2 stroke machines from petrol blowers, floor saws, chainsaws, brush cutters and auger systems and wacker plates use less oil to cool as most of the oil is in the fuel mix. with the usual method of a full gallon tank to 1 vessel of 2 stroke mix designed for a fuel can. lew
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