So, a year ago, when Teresa and I ripped out the closet wall in the master 
bedroom and installed sliding doors, I built a shelf unit into the 
closet.  I had originally planned on building a cedar closet into the big 
closet but then just wanted to get the job done and it seemed easier to 
build it out of MDF.  Of course, I had purchased quite a bit of rough 
cedar in preparation, which has been sitting, stacked in my basement for a 
year now.

So, finally, taking a comp day from work, I went into the basement and 
started working on building a free-standing closet/cabinet from the 1X8 
cedar planks.  The basic concept is pretty straight forward with a bit of 
decoration.

There will be a 2X4 rectangular frame at the very bottom and very top of 
the cabinet.  The frames will be below the floor and above the ceiling of 
the cabinet.  The sides of the cabinet are 3 1X8 cedar planks about 6.5 
feet long.  They are screwed into the 2X4s.  There will be a 1X4 cedar 
plank that runs around the sides and front of the cabinet at the bottom 
and top.  This will hide the screws connecting the side planks to the 
2X4s.

I routed a rabbit joint along the back edges of the last cedar plank on 
either side.  I will lay a quarter inch sheet of plywood or hard board in 
for the back of the cabinet.

I will rout two sets of dados on the inside walls of the closet sides and 
permanently affix shelves there.  The doors will be two cedar planks each 
making the cabinet four planks wide and three planks deep.

Let's see if I can explain the doors and opening a bit.  For one, the 
doors are 1.5 inches longer, bottom to top, than the actual open closet 
space.  This is so that the 3/4 inch floor and 3/4 inch ceiling of the 
closet are there for the doors to close against.  Since I want the doors, 
when closed, to be behind the 1X4 bottom and top trim, the 2X4 frame has 
to sit forward of the sides of the cabinet by the thickness of the doors, 
Actually it will sit forward of the sides slightly less than the thickness 
of the door, so that when the doors close, the front edge of the door will 
be resting very slightly on the 1X4 trim.  I was worried that if I didn't 
get everything just perfect, the doors might catch on the trim as you 
opened them.

So, the front 2X4 is rabbit jointed at it's ends so that the front most 
edge, extends to the left and right by the thickness of the walls of the 
cabinet.

The doors will be hinged with those long decorative hinges, where the 
hinge plates will be mounted to the front of the door and the sides of the 
cabinet, so they will be visible.

Lastly, I will take 1X2 cedar strips and stick them on the sides of the 
cabinet to cover the screws that anchor the shelves in place.  There will 
also be cedar strips across the doors holding the two door planks 
together.  The door strips will be slightly above the strips on the side 
walls so that the doors can open all the way against the sides of the 
cabinet, and if I do it just right, there should be some friction there 
between the strips on the doors and the strips on the cabinet, to keep the 
doors in place while open.

I will also get an old, large, sliding hasp to lock the doors together 
when closed.  The general impression should be of an old cedar closet.

So far, I cut all the side planks roughly to length.  I have screwed the 
side planks to 2X4s.  I mounted the 2X4s slightly short of the ends of the 
planks and I will take my circ saw and trim the planks flush with the 
2X4s.  I have already rabbit jointed the back to planks.  I cut all the 
2X4s to length.  Hopefully this weekend I will rabbit joint the front 2X4s, 
dado the side walls, and biscuit join the shelves together.

I don't need this cabinet really.  I am just doing something to get some 
time in the shop.  With the wedding, honeymoon, holidays, and work, I have 
not done diddly for months.

  -- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:    (412) 268-9081


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