Hi Everyone
Working with Steel Pipe
Chances are if your home is more than 30 years old, you have some steel
piping. This steel piping may be for plumbing supply lines or a gas
piping system.
The material of choice for plumbing these days, however, is plastic or
copper. Copper, either rigid or tubing, is by far the most popular
supply line used
in the last three decades in residential systems. Plastic has pretty
well replaced iron pipe for residential drain, waste and vent systems.
The traditional gas supply line, downstream of the point of delivery,
was supplied with an average pressure of 7 inches water column (1/4
psig) by means
of Schedule 40 ("black iron") steel pipe. Black-iron piping systems are
expensive to install due to the number of couplings and fittings needed,
as well
as the increased labor cost. These days many gas companies are also
going to semi-rigid tubing, rather than rigid steel supply lines. And a
new flexible
stainless steel piping system, called corrugated stainless steel tubing
(CSST) is fast gaining favor. This, however, may only be installed by
professionals.
You may, however, wish to repair older supply lines in your home with
the traditional materials, or extend propane gas or natural gas to new
things like
exterior kitchens, barbeques or gas logs in the fireplace. CSST can't be
used in contact with the ground, unlike black iron and galvanized steel
pipe,
which are both readily available at most hardware stores and building
supply houses. Both are worked and installed in the same basic manner.
One of the
advantages is these pipes are available in a range of pre-threaded
lengths, along with the fittings needed to join them. Also, many
hardware stores will
cut the pipe to length and thread the ends. One of the main
disadvantages of working with either material is they're relatively
heavy in relation to other
materials. And, being rigid, they aren't as easy to install, as are
semi-rigid and flexible tubings. Special tools are also required to work
with steel
pipes, including a pipe vise, cutter, reamer and threading die to match
the size of the pipe. You can, however, often rent the tools needed.
Both black steel and galvanized pipe are available at building supply
stores in precut, prethreaded lengths. Some hardware stores will cut and
thread to
suit.
Both materials are used with cast fittings and couplings to join
sections or lengths as needed.
Cutting and Threading
If you can't purchase pre-threaded pieces in the lengths needed, you
will need to cut and thread the pipe. It's extremely important the cut
be square and
even. First secure the pipe solidly in place in a pipe vise, or solid
bench vise. Then use a rotary pipe cutter to cut to length. To use the
cutter, position
it on the pipe and tighten the knurled handle just until the cutting
wheel touches the pipe. Apply a bit of cutting oil, or even light
automotive oil and
tighten the tool slightly on the pipe. Make a couple of turns around the
pipe. Turn the knurled handle to further tighten and make a couple more
turns,
again lubricating with oil. Continue tightening, turning and lubricating
until the pipe is cut through. Use the reamer to smooth the inside cut
edge of
the pipe.
The pipe does require some special tools for working, most of which can
be rented. This includes a pipe vise stand and rotary pipe cutters.
A power hacksaw, such as the Milwaukee model shown, can also be used to
create a straight, square cut, suitable for threading.
The inside of the cut is then smoothed with a reamer.
Then, fit the threading die over the end of the pipe. The cutting starts
with a fine thread on the die, and again a cutting oil must be used to
lubricate
the pipe and die. Turn the handle of the die clockwise half a turn at a
time, and then back it off a bit in order to eject the metal chips. Stop
the threads
just short of the thickness of the die. The inner threads or those away
from the pipe end are not cut as deep, providing a taper that creates a
tighter
joint. Remove the pipe from the vise, stand it on end, and tap to remove
any metal chips or particles that may be lodged inside. Then clean off
the oil
with a soft rag. Be careful; the threads are very sharp and can cut your
hands.
The pipe must be threaded using a threading tool of a diameter to match
the pipe.
The threaded pieces are then joined together using couplings or
fittings. A sealing material must be used on the threads at each joint.
This can be either
Teflon tape, or a pipe thread compound, such as that produced by
Hercules. With the sealing material in place, hand-tighten the pipe and
coupling or fitting.
Then, using pipe wrenches, one on the pipe and one on the fitting,
tighten one and a half more turns. Steel piping is heavy and it must be
well supported,
especially at each joint or coupling. Use pipe strapping around the
pipe, secured to the floor joists or other structural members to hold
the pipe in place
and prevent sagging. CAUTION: It is extremely important to test all
joints for leaks. Use a bit of water mixed with dish detergent and a
soft brush to
coat the solution over all joints. Any bubbles produced indicate a leak.
Shut off the gas, retighten the joint and retest.
Teflon tape or pipe thread compound is placed on the threads.
The coupling or fitting is turned in place. In this case the pipe is
still being held by the vise. When out of the vise, a second pipe wrench
must be used
on the pipe.
One of the most common plumbing repair jobs is replacing a section of
leaky galvanized plumbing supply line. In many instances this simply
means replacing
a fitting or coupling as most leaks occur in these areas. Shut off the
water supply and open a faucet to empty the line. Use two medium-sized
pipe wrenches
to turn the fitting off the pipe. In most instances this will take some
effort because the old threads have rusted together. Then install the
new fittings
using pipe joint compound or Teflon tape to seal the threads. If the
pipe is damaged between two fittings, use a reciprocating saw to cut
through the pipe
at the break or leak and then use the pipe wrenches to remove the two
sections of damaged pipe. Purchase two lengths of threaded pipe and a
union, or cut
and thread the pipe yourself. The length of the two pipes and union must
be the same length as the pipe section being replaced. To determine the
exact
length, measure between the faces of the remaining fittings and then add
one inch. This allows for the length needed for threading into the
fittings. Place
the pipe sections in the fittings and union and retighten in place. Turn
the water back on and check for leaks.
Today's Materials
Soft copper tubing is also extremely common these days for gas supply
lines. It's more easily worked and the flexibility adds to the safety.
According to
the American Gas Association, it allows for some movement without
breakage, and if bent to the point of breaking, tends to crimp itself
partly shut. And
it contains less fittings, with less opportunities for leaks. Copper
tubing requires less expensive tools, and is more "user-friendly." A
tubing cutter
is used to cut the tubing, and a flaring tool used to create a flared or
"belled" end over which a flaring nut is used to fasten to a fitting.
Teflon tape
is commonly used to seal off the threads. CSST material is even easier
to install. It is simply pulled in place between two points, cut to
length and fittings
added. Because the material is extremely flexible and there are fittings
only at the ends, it's also safer.
**********************************************************************
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.
Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**********************************************************************
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
