Hi Lenny

Very good tips

Regards
Ray
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 11:49 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Care Car Tips


> Ray,
> This is all  excellent advice. I routinely do two other very important
> maintenance changes. Every 3 years  I have the anti freeze flushed and
> changed. With so many aluminum engine parts molecules picked up and mixed
> with other engine parts can cause a corrosive action in your engine.
> Likewise every 2 or 3 years I have the break fluid changed. With the
> computer replacement cost for abs breaks it is much cheaper to spend $50 
> to
> have the fluid changed. the fluid, like oil can pick up very small 
> particles
> that can harm the computer.
> Both of these tips were featured a few years ago on the TV program 
> Backyard
> Mechanic.
> They showed a head gasket eaten away because of not having the anti-freeze
> changed and a $3,000 abs repair on the same make vehicle as mine. Both 
> would
> have been prevented with these fluid changes.
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
>
> excellent
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ray Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 2:53 AM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Care Car Tips
>
>
> Hi Everyone
> Care Car Tips
>
> Most people take pride in owning a reliable, attractive car or truck. The
> key to keeping a vehicle dependable and aesthetically pleasing is a normal
> maintenance
> regimen. To some, taking their vehicle to the car wash every two weeks and
> to the quick-lube joint every 3,000 miles is their idea of routine
> maintenance.
> But cars and trucks need more than this to maintain their showroom
> appearance, to continue to run correctly, and to optimize the factory's
> safety features.
>
> The car wash is a marginal way to keep a vehicle clean when you're in a
> hurry, but personal hands-on time is also necessary to protect the paint 
> and
> to
> check parts and fluids. Most of the products discussed here are already in
> many people's garages. If not, you can obtain everything you need at the
> local
> auto parts store.
>
> Belts & Hoses
> Before starting any long trip or after every 50,000 miles, check all of 
> the
> engine's accessory belts. Today, many cars are equipped with a serpentine
> belt
> that runs all of the accessories, so if that belt breaks, you can lose 
> your
> power steering, water pump and charging system immediately. Inspect the
> engine
> and look at the belt (or belts) to see if there is visible damage, 
> abnormal
> wear or small hairline cracks. Replace any belt that shows signs of wear.
> Even
> if a belt appears to be in good condition, it should be replaced every
> 50,000 miles as preventive maintenance.
>
>
> Like belts, radiator and heater hoses are also made of rubber. Their
> condition should be checked periodically. Both the upper and lower 
> radiator
> hoses can
> rupture from internal pressure and age without the driver knowing it. When
> that happens, the coolant spews out, and the engine can seize from 
> excessive
> heat buildup.
>
> In general, inspect all hoses for wear, including hairline cracks and 
> soft,
> bulging spots. Hoses that come in contact with brackets or other metal 
> parts
> are prone to wear in these areas. Even if the hoses pass visual 
> inspection,
> we recommend changing all the water hoses every 50,000 miles.
>
> Brakes
> Your vehicle's most critical system is its brakes. Many people never look 
> at
> the master cylinder until they have brake failure. In late-model vehicles,
> the master cylinders are often made of semi-opaque plastic that allows
> fluid-level inspection without taking off the cover, as is the case with
> cast-iron
> master cylinders.
>
>
> In addition to checking fluid level, look for leaks where the brake lines
> attach to the master cylinder and where the master cylinder bolts to the
> power
> booster. If you see signs of brake fluid, tighten the fittings using a 
> line
> wrench on brake-line nuts to prevent against rounding off their shoulders.
> If the master cylinder is leaking at the rear, replace it.
>
> In the interest of safety, periodically get under the vehicle and inspect
> the rubber hoses that go to the wheels for excessive wear or cracks; 
> replace
> these
> hoses as necessary. Finally, check brake shoes and/or caliper pads
> regularly. Worn pads can damage the brake rotor or drum, turning a simple
> maintenance
> job into an expensive replacement procedure. For vehicles with disc 
> brakes,
> replace the pads with whatever style the manufacturer recommends.
>
> Lubrication
> Adequate lubrication is one of the key factors in keeping your engine
> running well. The fluid level should be checked weekly, and the oil should
> be changed
> frequently (every 3,000 miles in older engines) to keep it clean. The most
> common effect of neglected oil inspection is an engine seize or some other
> type
> of catastrophic failure. Checking the oil level is a lot more convenient
> than replacing an engine.
>
> Consult your owner's manual regarding oil-change intervals and lubricant
> specifications. We recommend using synthetic oil because it resists
> degradation
> better than conventional oil and stays cleaner longer. If you choose to 
> use
> standard fossil oil, check your owner's manual for the recommended 
> viscosity
> in various weather conditions. Temperature seriously affects your oil and
> its lubricating effectiveness, and using the incorrect weight, such as
> straight
> 30-weight in winter in cold country, can be harmful to the internal parts
> you're trying to protect.
>
> Degreasers
> Your engine compartment can be kept looking as good as the day you 
> purchased
> the car by cleaning it once a Year. Degreasing can be done when you wash 
> the
> car.
>
> Many engine-cleaning products work extremely well, and some household
> degreasers are also effective. Spray the product on and let it soak in, 
> then
> hose
> off the chemicals to reveal a sparkling-clean engine compartment. Your 
> local
> auto parts store will have several biodegradable cleaners that are
> environmentally
> friendly. Read each label for the correct way to use the product prior to
> purchasing it.
>
> As a side benefit, leaks and other problems are easier to spot in clean
> engine compartments.
>
> Wash & Polish
> All of the automotive paint manufacturers have to meet current EPA
> standards, so automotive paints have been evolving over the past several
> years. New vehicles
> are painted with urethane products and most factories use two- and
> three-stage paints. As a result, it's important to use car-care products
> that are designed
> for these finishes. Carefully read the label prior to buying the wax or
> other surface treatment to ensure paint compatibility.
>
> Between wax applications, an instant-detailer product will supply a "wet"
> look to your finish as well as helping to protect it from the elements. If
> your
> finish is smooth and clean, use a pure carnuba wax with no cleaners. Read
> the label and follow the directions for the best results.
>
> Glass Care
> There's nothing worse or more dangerous, than looking out of a dirty
> windshield. Dirty glass deflects the light and can make visibility 
> dangerous
> at best,
> impossible at worst.
>
> Many products do an excellent job of washing your windshield, and it's
> always advisable to wipe the product off with a paper towel that doesn't
> leave lint
> or streaks. Consider cleaning your windshield every morning, or at least 
> use
> your automatic windshield washers before departing.
>
> For surface scratches, glass-polishing products can usually make the
> windshield appear as good as new. Also, small rock chips and cracks can be
> sometimes
> successfully filled with resin repair kits from the auto parts store.
> Alternately, automotive glass shops and mobile-repair services can fill
> small chips
> and cracks so that they virtually disappear.
>
> Wipers & Washers
> The windshield wipers and washers are obviously very important parts of 
> your
> car, and they need periodic maintenance. Windshield wiper blades should be
> replaced once a year to maintain a perfect seal against the glass. 
> (Hardened
> rubber can scratch the glass surface and will not remove water 
> effectively.)
> When replacing wiper blades, make sure that the refills are the exact same
> length as the original blades. This will prevent metal-to-glass contact 
> and
> the serious scratching that usually results.
>
>
> The windshield washer reservoir should also be checked and filled with a
> cleaning product, not just water. Periodically use the washers to make 
> sure
> they're
> functioning properly. Clogged squirt-nozzles can be cleaned
> by clearing them with a small-gauge wire. If the problem is the electric
> pump on the washer-fluid reservoir, replace the pump. Driving in slushy 
> snow
> or
> muddy rain can impair vision and require frequent use of the washers. 
> Don't
> neglect this safety item.
>
> Lights
> Another safety-related aspect that should be checked periodically is the
> light system. With the exception of the bright-white halide-gas headlights
> on expensive
> new sports cars, many automotive lights are just bulbs, downsized versions
> of the ones in your house. As such, they do eventually burn out.
> Periodically check the lights to make sure they're all working. Turn on 
> your
> emergency flasher and see if all four lights flash. Then individually try
> the
> right and left turn signal to make sure they are working front and rear. 
> Ask
> a friend to apply the brakes to see if the brake lights are functioning.
> Obviously,
> it's extremely dangerous to drive a car with faulty brake lights.
>
> If any of the lights aren't working, replace that bulb. If the brake 
> lights
> aren't working, first check the bulbs, then the brake switch. If your dash
> lights
> are not functioning, check for burned-out fuses, or for defective bulbs in
> older vehicles.
> For passenger safety, make sure that the courtesy lamps illuminate. Don't
> forget any underhood bulbs as well as the
> trunk lamp.
>
> Interior
> The interior of your car is not a storage area for empty cans and old 
> french
> fries. It should be clean and well maintained. The carpets should be
> vacuumed,
> and the vinyl should be coated with a protectant periodically. For cloth
> interiors, many products are available at your auto parts store for
> shampooing
> and stain removal. Leather interiors require special conditioners to keep
> the skins soft and pliable.
>
> Always read the application directions on the container. With today's
> technology, almost any type of interior problem can be solved with a
> specific cleaner.
> Always read the label and follow the directions exactly for optimum 
> results.
> Sometimes surface preparation is required prior to applying stain remover
> or using other interior chemicals properly.
>
> Joints
> Although the undercarriage isn't as easy to inspect as the rest of the
> vehicle, it's just as vital. Underneath, all moving parts should be
> inspected and
> lubricated every few months. Areas to be particularly concerned with are
> driveshaft U-joints and, in front-wheel-drive cars, halfshafts and
> CV-joints.
> If you use a quick-lube place for oil changes, ask to have these joints
> inspected and lubed in conjunction with the oil change.
>
> Fluid leaks are not only messy, they can be the warning of a larger 
> problem
> to come. Have your wheel bearings inspected and repacked every 20,000 
> miles
> and all under-car fuel lines and brake lines looked at as well. It1s easy 
> to
> forget
> what you can1t see, but some of the most critical items are underneath 
> your
> car.
>
> Tire Care
> Many companies now offer spray-on tire-care products. Some people prefer 
> the
> glossy-black look while others like a more natural semi-gloss black. 
> Common
> soap pads can be used to clean white letters and to remove the brown brake
> dust from the sidewalls.
>
> Most people are well aware that tire failures can be fatal. With this in
> mind, get in the habit of visually inspecting daily for sidewall bulges 
> and
> checking
> air pressure at every gas stop. After all, a tire-pressure gauge is a lot
> cheaper than a new set of tires.
>
> Proper inflation pressure makes tires last longer, and it also improves 
> the
> vehicle's fuel economy. Assuming that the wheels are properly aligned,
> underinflation
> causes the tires' shoulders to wear faster than the centers, and
> overinflation makes the center strips go bald earlier than the shoulders.
> Your owner's
> manual will recommend the correct pressure for your vehicle.
>
> Assuming that the vehicle is aligned properly, inexpensive tires should 
> last
> in excess of 30,000 miles; expensive brands often go more than 50,000.
> Conversely,
> worn tires may work okay in dry weather, but they can become downright
> dangerous in the rain. Periodically inspect the sidewalls for cracking or
> splitting.
> Old tires, even with low mileage, can be dangerous because the rubber 
> cracks
> and hardens over time. Any tire more than five years old should be 
> changed.
> Bottom line: Blowouts can be fatal.
>
> Wheels
> These days, almost all new vehicles (with the possible exceptions of
> econo-boxes and heavier-duty trucks) are factory-equipped with alloy 
> wheels.
> Some of
> these wheels have a natural finish, some have a natural finish with a 
> clear
> coating and some are powder-coated. Regardless, all eventually get caked
> with
> disc-brake dust and road grime.
>
> At the parts store, it's important to select a cleaner that's designed for
> your wheel type. For example, clear-coated wheels should be cleaned with a
> different
> cleaner than natural-finish alloys or steel wheels. Check with your
> manufacturer for your specific wheel type and select the appropriate
> product.
> Happy Motoring
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
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>
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>
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